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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

The skirt is straight cut with shaped Darts

The drawing of the pattern for such a skirt (Fig. 102) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat waist  38
Poluobhvat hips  52
Distance from waist to floor front  100
Distance from waist line to floor at the side  101
Distance from waist line to floor rear  100
Distance from floor to bottom edge of skirt  35
Back length to the waist line  38


Take a sheet of paper, equal in length to the length of the skirt plus 10 - 12 cm, width equal to poluobhvat hips plus 4 - 5 cm 

 the Width of the skirt. At the bottom of the sheet of paper carried out a horizontal line where lay the cut is equal to the measure of poluobhvat hips plus 2 cm, and put the points N and N1 (52 + 2 = 54 cm). Through the points N and N1 hold the vertical line up (Fig. 103). 

 Line sides. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips and put a point of H2. 
НН2 = 52 : 2 = 26 cm 
Through the point H2 is carried up the vertical line. 

 The length of the skirt. From the point N up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put the point T. From the point H2 upward on a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the side skirt (101 - 35 = 66 cm) and put the point T1. From point N1 up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put a point T2.

 The waist line. Points T, T1 and T2 connect the dotted lines. 

 The hips. From point T1 down the line flanks lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through the point B is carried out in a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and TN denote B1, with a line Т2Н1 - B2. 

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks at the waist to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2 cm (loose fit), and then subtract the measure of poluobhvat waist (52 + 2 - 38 = 16 cm).
The value of the solution of the two front Darts of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (16 x 0.35 = 5.6 cm). The value of one of the front Darts equal to 5,6 : 2 = 2.8 cm 
the Value of the solution side tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (16 x 0.35 = 5.6 cm). 
The amount of solution back tuck equal to 0.3 of the total solution tucks (16 x 0.3 = 4.8 cm).
 Note. If the difference between waist and hips with the addition of 2 cm to fit free more 16, it is recommended that instead of one of the back Darts to make it two. 

 Side tuck. From the point T1 to the left along the dotted line lay half the depth of the side tuck plus 0.5 cm and put a point T3 (5,6 : 2 + 0,5 = 3,3 cm). From the point T1 to the right along the dotted line lay half the depth of the side tuck minus 0.5 cm and put a point T4 (5,6 : 2 - 0,5 = 2.3 cm). 
Points T3 and T4 connect the dotted lines with the point B, the dotted lines divide in half, from the points of division inside the tuck raise perpendiculars, on which lay 0.5 cm Then the resulting points connect smooth lines with points T3 and T4 B, B. 

 Tuck back the cloth. The distance between points T and T3 divided in half. From the point of division is carried down the vertical dashed line to the line BB1, the point of intersection denote B3. From the point B3 on the vertical up line lay 2 cm and put a point B4. From the dividing point to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts and put points T5 and T6. Points T5 and T6 connect slightly concave lines with the point of B4. The dotted line from tuck is carried out with the solid line. 

 Tuck front cloth. From the point T2 to the left along the dotted line lay 6 - 7 cm and put a point T7. From the point T7 to the left along the dotted line lay the value of the solution front tuck (2.8 cm) and put a point T8. From the point T8 to the left along the dotted line lay 4 cm (distance between pleats) and put a point T9. From the point T9 to the left of the line delay value of the solution of the second front tuck and put a point T10. From the point T2 down vertical lay lines 13 - 14 cm and put a point T11. From the point T11 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 15 cm and put a point T12.Point T12 connect the dotted line with a point T7. Dotted line divide in half, from the points of division upon the earth perpendicular to the line Т7Т12, length 2.5 cm and put a point T13. Point T7, T12, and T13 connect the smooth concave line. The same concave line connecting points T8 and T12.
From point T12 to the left on a horizontal line lay 6.5 cm and put a point T14. Points T9 and T14 connect the dotted line, divide it in half, from the points of division upon the earth perpendicular to the line Т9Т14, which lay 2.5 cm. Then the points connecting two smooth concave lines in the same way as when building the first notched tuck.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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