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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

The skirt is straight cut with ten Darts at the figure with a narrow waist

The drawing of the pattern for such a skirt (Fig. 108) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat waist  34
Poluobhvat hips  52
Distance from waist to floor front  100
Distance from waist line to floor at the side  101
Distance from waist line to floor rear  100
Distance from floor to bottom edge of skirt  35
Back length to the waist line  38


Take a sheet of paper, equal in length to the length of the skirt plus 10 - 12 cm, width equal to poluobhvat hips plus 4 - 5 cm 

 the Width of the skirt. From the lower edge of a sheet of paper carried out a horizontal line where lay the cut is equal to the measure of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm for loose fit (52 + 2 = 54 cm) and put the points H and H1 (Fig. 109). 

 Line sides. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 1cm and put a point of H2. 
НН2 = 52 : 2 + 1 = 27, see 
Through the points H, H1 and H2 hold a vertical line upwards. 

 The length of the skirt. From the point N up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put the point T. From the point H2 upward on a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the side skirt (101 - 35 = 66 cm) and put the point T1. From point N1 up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put a point T2. 

 The waist line. Points T, T1 and T2 connect the dotted lines. 

 The hips. From point T1 down the line flanks lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the left and right spend a horizontal line. Point of its intersection with the line T denote B1, with a line Т2Н1 - B2. 

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks at the waist to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit and subtract the measure of poluobhvat waist (52 + 2 - 34 = 20 cm). The value of the solution front tuck 0.15 of the total solution tucks (20 x 0,15 = 3 cm). The value of the front side of Darts equal to 0.2 of the total solution tucks (20 x 0.2 = 4 cm). 
The value of the solution side tuck is 0.25 of the total solution tucks (20 x 0.25 = 5 cm). 
The amount of solution back tuck each equal to 0.2 of the total solution tucks (20 x 0.2 = 4 cm).

 Side tuck. From the point T1 to the left and to the right along the dotted line, lay on the half of the depth of the side tucks and put points T3 and T4. From point B upwards in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point B3. Point B3 is connected to the points T3 and T4 slightly concave lines. 

 Tuck front cloth. The dotted line between points T4 and T2 divided in half, from the dividing point to the right of the dotted line postpone 1 cm and put a point T5. Through the point T5, spend a vertical line down where you lay 12 - 14 cm, and put a point T6. From point T5 to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half depth front tuck and put points T7 and T8. Points T7 and T8 is connected to the point T6 smooth, slightly concave lines.For the construction side of the front Darts distance between the points T4 and T7 is divided in half, through the point of division of the hold down vertical line, on which lay 12 - 14 cm, and put a point T9. From the point of division of left and right lay on the half of the depth of the front side of the tuck and put points T10 and T11. Points T10 and T11 connect slightly concave lines with a point T9.

 Tuck back the cloth. From the point T to the right along the dotted line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 2 cm and put point T12 (54 : 4 - 2 = 11 cm). Point T12 is carried out a vertical line to the line BB1, the point of intersection with this line denote B4. From the point B4 up on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point B5. From point T12 to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on one half of the depth of the back Darts and put points T13 and T14. Points T13 and T14 is connected to the point B5 slightly concave smooth lines.
For the second rear tuck distance between the points T14 and T3 divided in half. Through the point of division conduct a vertical line to the hip line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the hips indicate B6. From the point B6 up vertical lines postpone 1 cm and put a point B7. From the dividing point to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half of the depth of the second rear tuck and dot T15 and T16. Points T15 and T16 connect the smooth slightly concave lines with the point B7.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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