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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Trench coat with set-in sleeves

The drawing of the pattern of this Cape (Fig. 160) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat chest  48 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat waist  38 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat hips  53 Length of cloak  105
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  58
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Breast height  27    


 Construction drawing backrest and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the cloak (105 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 161, a). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the cloak. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 3 cm on the free fit and put a point B. 
AB = 48 + 8 = 56, see 
Through the point To spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1. 

 The waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 2cm and put a point T (38 + 2 = 40 cm). From the point T right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the intersection point denoted B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 2,5 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + and 2.5 = 20.5 cm. 

 , the Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 2 = 14 see 
Through the points A1 and A2 is carried out vertical lines down. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increased by 0.5 cm.
Through point A3 is carried out a vertical line upwards. From the point A3 on the line lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.1 cm and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,1 = 1.7 cm, 
the Points A4, A5 And connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down vertical line delay of 2.5 cm for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm for the high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on the landing and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Build Darts from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of an denoted G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = 21 : 3 + 2 = 9 see
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.7 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 14 : 10 + 1,7 = 3.1 cm 
Line ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4. Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm).
Through the point P4 to the left is carried out a horizontal line on which the point P4 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 19 : 3 = 6,3 cm 
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, from the points of division to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point 1. 
Angle П6Г2Г4 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.1 cm and put a point A7.
Г2П7 = 14 : 10 + 1,1 = 2.5 cm 
Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G5 (14 : 3 = 4.7 cm). Through the point G5 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T2, B2, H2. Through the point G5 spend a vertical line to the line of openings, the point of intersection represent Г9. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up on a vertical line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 3,5 = 27,5 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm (48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm). From the point of G2 up the vertical lines of the delay value of the segment Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. From the point B1 to the left of the line В1В2 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3.
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see 
Point B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From point G3 along the line Г3Г1 to the left lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G6 (with 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G6 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line В1В2, the point of intersection represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G7. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points P5 and B7 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В7В3, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3,5 - 0,3 = 9,7 cm 
Point G7 and B8 connect the straight line on which the point G7 lay up cut Г7В7 and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. If the coat should be fitted, you need to make Darts. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on the chest (with allowance for the free fit) and the width of the scarf at the waist (with allowance for the free fit): 48 + 8 = 56 cm, 38 + 6 = 44 cm; 56 - 44 = 12 cm the Value of the solution tucks all around the waist is 12 cm Mortar tuck in the middle cut of the back is equal to 2, see the Remaining 10 cm (12 - 2 = 10 cm) distributed on front, back Darts and a tuck in the side.
The value of the solution front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution tucks (10 x 0,25 = 2,5 cm). The value of the solution side tuck is 0.45 of the total solution tucks (10 x 0.45 = 4.5 cm). The amount of solution back tuck equal to 0.3 of the total solution tucks (10 x 0.3 = 3 cm). 

 The calculation of the width of the scarf at the hip line. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 6 cm for loose fit (53 + 6 = 59 cm). From the obtained value subtracted the width of the coat obtained by constructing between points B, B1 (59 - 56 = 3 cm). The result is distributed equally between the front and back (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm). 

 Side cut. From the point T2 to the left and right at the waist line delaying half of the solution side tuck (4,5 : 2 = 2.25 cm) and put the points T3 and T4. Points T3 and T4 connect the straight lines with the point Г9. From the point B2 to the left and right delay to 1.5 cm and dots B3 and B4. Point T3 connect the dotted line with the point B4. Point T4 connect the dotted line with the point B3. The dotted lines divide in half, from the points of division in the direction of line sides raise perpendiculars, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting points connected to the points B3, T4, T3 and B4 flowing lines.From the point H2 to the left and right of the line НН1 postpone for 6 - 8 cm and dot N3 and N4. The points are linked by straight lines with points B4 and B3. From the points H4 and H3 up the line of side lay 1 - 1.5 cm and put the points N5 and N6.

 A medium cut backless. From T point to the right waist lay 2 cm and put a point T5. Point T5 connect a straight line with a point B and a smooth line with point A. the Line Н1Н continue to the left on 1,5 - 2 cm and put a dot H7. Point H7 and B connect by a straight line. 

 Line Darts on the back. The distance between points T5 and T3 is divided, the breaking point denoted T6. Point T6 is carried out up and down the vertical line to the intersection with the line of the chest and waist. The intersection points represent the G8 and B5. From the point T6 to the left and to the right lay half of the solution back tuck (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm) and put points T7 and T8. From point 8 down lay 3, see point B5 lay up 4, see Points 3 and 4 combine smooth lines with points T7 and T8. 

 Line yoke. From the point of intersection of the middle line of the back from the bust line up in the middle of the back lay 3 cm and put a point O. Point 8 is connected to the points P3 and a smooth concave lines. 

 The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 2 cm, and put a point T7 (43 + 2 = 45 cm). Points T7 and T4 connect a smooth line. 

 Line of the hips. From point B1 lay down the amount of cut Т1Т7 and put a point B6. Point B6 and B3 that connect a smooth line. 

 The bottom line. From the point H1 continues down the vertical line. From the point H1 along this line lay the value of the cut Т1Т7 and put a point H8. The point H8 and H7 combine smooth lines with points N6 and N5. 

 Line side. From the point B4 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a break point B10. From the point B10 is carried tangent to the arc of neck smooth line that continues right over the line В1Н1 1 cm and put a point Q11. Through the point B11 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 3 cm and put a point B12. The bust line and hem line from the points G3 and H8 continue to the right by 5 cm Received 5 connect the points with straight lines between a and B12. 

 Line yoke. From the point G3 up lines Н1В1 lay 3 cm and put a point O1. Point O1 connect smooth curved line with dot G6 and a smooth line with a line side. Point G6 connect smooth curved line with point P7. 

 Line pockets. From the point G2 carried down a vertical line, the intersection of this line and the waist line is denoted T8. From the point T8 in this line lay down 1/5 of the measurements of the back to the waist line and put a point T9 (38 : 5 = 7.6 cm). Point T9 to the left and right draw a line parallel to the waist line. The length of the pocket is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2 cm (48 : 4 + 2 = 14 cm). From the point T9 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of this value and put a point T10. From the point T10 to the right on a horizontal line lay 2/3 of the length of the pocket and put a point T11.

 Draw a pattern of the lower collar. After the neckline is suturina, it is measured. Spend a horizontal line, on which lay the length measured neck minus 1 cm, and dots In a and B1 (Fig. 161, b). Through the points In B1 down and spend a vertical line. 

 Width of lower collar. From a point down the vertical line delay of 12 cm and put the H-point. Through the point N to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a line running from the point B1, the point of intersection denoted H1. 

 Line vrachevanie collar. From the point N up the line lay 2 cm and put a point of H2. From the point H1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point H3. From point N1 up on a vertical line delay of 2.5 cm and put a point H4. The point H4, H3, H2 connect a smooth line. 

 The line of departure. From point B1 lay down 2 see point 2 hold right horizontal line"where you lay 2 - 3 cm and put a point B2. Points B2 and connect In a smooth line. Points B2 and H4 connect with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing dress patterns sleeve. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 162). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (drawing back), times three, minus 3 inches and put a point B. 
AB = ГГ2 x 3 - 3 = 14 x 3 - 3 = 39, see 
point To spend a vertical line down to the intersection with the bottom line. The intersection point H1 represent 

 the height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole of the backrest (GHG) and put the point O. 
AO = PG : 4 x 3 = 21 4 x 3 = 15,9 cm 
Through the point right hold, horizontal, the point of its intersection with a line ВН1 denote O1. 

 The line of the elbow. From point A down the line an lay scoop length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). Through the point L, hold right horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote L1. 

 Auxiliary lines okata sleeves. The line OO1 is divided into six equal parts. The points of division denoted O2, O3, O4, O5, O6. From each point of division restore perpendicular to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection with the line AB denoted A1, A2, A3, A4, A5. From the point O2 up lines О2А1 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1 cm and put a point A6 (15,9 : 3 - 1 = 4.3 cm). From the point A2 down the line А2О3 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.5 cm and put a point A7 (15,9 : 3 - 2,5 = 2.8 cm). From the point A4 down the line А4О5 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2 cm and put a point A8 (15,9 : 3 - 2 = 3.3 cm).From the point A6 up lines О6А5 lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A9 (15,9 : 6 = 2.7 cm). Point O, A6, A7, A3, A8, A9 and A1 connect a smooth line.

 The construction line is the average cutoff sleeves. Line А3О4 continue down. The point of intersection with the lower line denote H2. From the point A3 to the left along the line AB. postpone 1 cm and put a point a10. From the point A3 to the right of the line AB lay 1.5 cm and put a point A11. From the point O4 to the left of the line OO1 delay of 0.5 cm and put a point A8. From the point O4 to the right of the line lay of 0.8 cm and put the point E9. From the point D2 to the right of the line НН1 lay 2 cm and put a point H3. 

 A medium cut the front halves of the sleeves. Points A11, A8, H3 connect a smooth line. 

 The average cut back half sleeve. Points a10, A9, H2 connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the front halves of the sleeves. From the point H3 to the right lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (15 cm) and put a point H4. Points H4 and O1 connect the dotted line. From the point H4 to the left on a horizontal line delay value of the segment О6О1 and put a point H5. Point N5 and O6 connect the dotted line. From the points N4 and N5 up on the vertical lines lay 2 cm dot 2 and 2'. Points 2' and 2, H3 connect a smooth line. 

 The front section of the sleeve. From the point of intersection of the dotted lines 2О1 line LL1 to the left lay 1 see Point 1 connect a smooth line with points 2 and O1. 

 Line the bottom of the rear halves of the sleeve. From the point D2 to the left on a horizontal line lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (15 cm) and put a point h6. The distance between the points H2 and h6 are divided in half, the dividing point down a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points h6 and H2. 

 Rear cut sleeve. From point L to the right of the line LL1 lay 2 cm and put a point L2. Points L2 and connect with a straight line. Points L2 and h6 connect the dotted line, divide the dotted line between these points in half, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0,3 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points N2 and N6. 

 Line tuck. From the point L2 lay down 2 cm along the line Л2Н6 and put a point L3. From the point L2 to the right lay 5 - 6 cm and put the point L4. Points L3 and L4 connect with a straight line.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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