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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Winter coat of adjoining silhouette with set-in sleeves


The drawing of the pattern of this coat (Fig. 174) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
 

Poluobhvat neck  18  Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48  Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat waist  38 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat hips  53 Length coat  103
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  58
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Breast height  27    


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the coat (103 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 175). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the coat. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm on loose fit and put a point At (48 + 6 = 54 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line down the point of intersection with the line of the bottom indicate H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote B1. 

 Back width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.8 cm and put a point A1. 
AA1 = 18 + 1,8 = 19,8 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 1,5 = 13,5 cm 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold down the vertical line. 

 The blades. From point A down the vertical line delay 4/10 measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put a point At (38 : 10 x 4 = 15.2 cm). Using the right point spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line going from point A1. The point of intersection denoted U1. 

 A medium cut backless. From point A to the right by the line AA1 delay of 0.5 cm and put a point A0. Point A0 connect a smooth line with a point of U. 
For the hunched figures lay 1 cm, for figures with flat back construction of the cut backs are starting from point A.
From the point T to the right of the line. waist postpone 1 cm and put a point T2. Through the point T2 and spend a straight line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection with the line of the hips and bottom denote B2 and H2. The waistline, hips and bottom of the coat is carried out perpendicular to the line of УН2. 

 The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line. From the point T2 to the right on the waist line lay 1 - 1.5 cm and put a point T3. Point T3 connect a smooth line with points y and B2. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From the point A0 to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.3 cm and put a point A3. 
А0А3 = 18 : 3 + 1,3 = 7,3 cm
From point A3 up raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle А0А3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 = 1.8 cm 
Points A4, A5, A0 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 - 1 cm for planting and put a point P1 (13,5 + 2 + 1 = 16.5 cm). 

 The construction of tuck from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm (48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm (48 : 4 + 9 = 21 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 21,5 : 3 + 2 = 9,3 see
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.7 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 13,5 : 10 + 1,7 = 3.1 cm 
Line ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4. Point G1, P2, L3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. From the point G to the right of the line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G5 (14,5 : 3 = 4.5 cm). From the point G5 is lowered perpendicular to the intersection line НН1, the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the line of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T4, B3, H3. From point G5 restore perpendicular to the line of openings, and put a point G6. From the point H3 to the right along the hem of the coat lay the value of the cut НН2 and put a point H4. Points H4 and G6 connect with a straight line. The point of intersection with the line of the waist and hips represent T5 and B4. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm). 
Via the point P4 is carried out to the left a horizontal line, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point P5 (48 : 10 + 0,5 = 5.3 cm). From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the line Г2П4 and put a point P6.
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 19,5 : 3 = 6.5 cm 
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. Angle П6Г2Г4 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.2 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = ГГ2 : 10 + 1,2 = 13,5 : 10 + 1,2 = 2,6 see 
Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm.
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 2 a + 3.5 = 27.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 2 + 5,5 = 29.5 cm). From the point of G2 up on the continuation of the line Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.3 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1,3 = 7,3 cm 
From point B1 down the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.3 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,3 = 8,3 cm
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.8 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,8 = 7,8, see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G7 (the 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G7 spend a vertical line up to intersection with the line В1В2. The point of intersection represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down the line lay's measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G8. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points P5 and B7 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3,2 - 0,3 = 10 cm 
Point G8 and B8 connect the straight line on which the points lay-up 8 piece, equal Г8В7, and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line.

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on the chest (with allowance for the free fit) and the width of the scarf at the waist (with allowance for the free fit): 48 + 6 = 54 cm; 38 + 3 = 41 cm; 54 - 41 = 13 cm the Value of the solution tucks all equal to 13 cm, 13 cm is subtracted the value of the solution tucks in medium cut backless (Т2Т3), in this case 1 cm (13 - 1 = 12 cm). 12 cm is distributed evenly into three Darts and a side cut (12 : 4 = 3 cm). 

 The calculation of the width of the coat at the hip line. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 4 cm to free fit, from the obtained value subtracted the width of the coat obtained upon creation of the drawing between the points B2, B4, B3 and B1 (24,3 + 29,7 = 54 cm), i.e.: 53 + 4 = 57; 57 - 54 = 3 see the Remaining 3 cm are distributed equally between the front and back. From the point B3 to the left lay 1.5 cm and put a point B5. From the point B4 to the right lay 1.5 cm and put a point B6. 

 Design side cut backless. From the point T4 to the left at the waist lay 1/2 of the solution Darts at the waist (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm) and put a point T6. Point T6 connect a straight line with a point G6 and the dashed line with the point B6. The dotted line is divided from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T6 and B6. From the point H4 line Н2Н4 continue to the right by 2 - 3 cm and put a point H5. Point N5 connect a straight line with a point B6. 

 The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B1 down the line В1Н1 postpone the measure length to the waist line front plus 1 cm, and put a point T8. From point T5 to the right lay 1/2 of the solution tuck (1.5 cm) at the waist and put a point T7. Points T8 and T7 connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the front. From point B1 down the line В1Н1 delay value of the segment Т1Т8 and put a point B7. Point B5 and B7 connect a smooth line. 

 The bottom line of the front. A vertical line В1Н1 continue downward from the point D1 on the line delay value of the segment Т1Т8 and put a point h6. Point h6 connect a smooth line with a dot H7.

 Design side cut shelves. Point T7 connect a straight line with a point G6 and the dashed line with point B5. The dotted line between points T7 and B5 divided in half,the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points B5 and T7. Line Н6Н3 continue to the left by 2 - 3 inches and put a dot H7. Dot H7 connect by a straight line with point B5. 

 Making Darts on the back. The distance between the points G, G1 divided in half, the point of division denote Г9. Through the point Г9 pursuing a line parallel to УН2, the point of intersection with the lines of waist and hips refer T9 and G8. From the point T9 to the left and to the right lay the half back tucks (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm). From the point Г9 down and point B8 lay up at the 4 see Point 4 connect the straight lines with points of 1.5. 

 The design of the Darts on the shelf. A vertical line В6Г7 is continued until the hip line, the point of intersection with the line of waist and hips refer T10 and B9. From point 8 down the vertical line lay 5 cm From point B9 lay up 6 cm From the point T10 to the left and right waist lay 1/2 of the solution tuck (1.5 cm). 1,5 points connect by straight lines with points 5 and 6.
For the second tuck vertical line В2Г2 is continued until the hip line, the point of intersection with the line of waist and hips refer T11 and B10. From the point T11 to the left and to the right lay 1/2 of the solution tuck (1.5 cm). From the point G2 down on a vertical line 3 cm From the lay point lay B10 up 6 Points 1,5 see connect the straight lines with dots 3 and 6. 

 Draw the pattern side , see Fig. 170

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve , see Fig. 171.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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