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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Women's sports trousers over the knee

In the drawing such trousers (Fig. 121 the figure in the center) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat waist  38 Length pants to the knee  59
Poluobhvat hips  53 Seat height  28
The length of the pants on the side  75 Poluobhvat Shin  18


 The creation of the drawing pattern of the front halves of trousers. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure pants length (75 cm), and put the points T and N (Fig. 123). Through the points T and N hold right horizontal line. 

 Line step. From T point down the line T delay measurements seat height (28 cm) and put a point W. point W to the right is carried out in a horizontal line. 

 The knee line. From T point down the line TN postpone the measure pants length to knee (59 cm) and put a point K. from the point K to the right spend a horizontal line.

 The hips. Point W up the line TN measurements lay 1/3 of the height of the seat and put B (28 : 3 = 9.4 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the line step. From the point W to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 5.5 cm and put a point SH1. 
ШШ1 = 53 : 2 + 5,5 = 32 see 

 the bend Line. ШШ1 divided in half, the point of division denote R2 (32 : 2 = 16 cm). Through the point ø2 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the lines of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom indicate, respectively, T1, B1, K1, H1. 

 Line front the cut. From a point SH1 to the left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put the point of SH3.
Ш1Ш3 = 53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm
Through the point SH3 is carried up the vertical line. Dots T2 and B2. From the point of SH3 lay up 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put a point Ш4. Point Ш4 and SH1 connects with a dotted line, divide the segment Ш4Ш1 into three equal parts, from the bottom of the dividing point to the left and down raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points B2 and SH1. From the point T2 to the left of the line Т2Т postpone 1 cm and put a point T3. From point T3 down upon the earth perpendicular to the line ТТ2, which postpone 1 cm and put a point T4.Point T4 connect the straight line with the point B2.

 The waist line. From the point T3 at the waist to the left lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat waist plus 3 inches and put a point T5. 
Т3Т5 = 38 : 2 + 3 = 22 see 
Point T5 connect the dotted line with a point T4. 

 Line tuck. From the line Т1Н1 on the dotted line to the left and right delay to 1.5 cm and put the points T6 and T7. From point T1 down the line Т1Н1 lay 12 - 14 cm and connect the resulting point smooth lines with points T6 and T7. 

 The bottom line is. From the point H1 to the left and to the right lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat tibia plus 0.5 cm and put the points N2 and N3. 
Н1Н2 = Н1Н3 = 18 : 2 + 0,5 = 9,5 cm
From point N1 up delay 0.5 cm and connect this point with straight lines with points of N2 and N3. 

 The side cut. Point T5, connect a smooth line with point B. Point W connect the dotted line with the point H2. From the intersection of the dotted line with a line knee right postpone 1 cm and put a point K2. Point W, K2 and H2. connect a smooth line. 

 The width of the trousers through the knee. From the point K1 to the right on a horizontal line lay a distance equal to the segment К1К2, and put a point K3. 

 Step cut. Point SH1, K3, H3 connect a smooth line. 

 Line pockets. Line the pocket should be positioned parallel to the lateral cut at a distance of 4 cm from it and 3 to 4 cm from the waist line. The length of the pocket 12 - 14 see 

 Construction drawing patterns rear halves of the pants. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure pants length (75 cm), and put the points T and N (Fig. 124). Through the points T and N the left spend a horizontal line. 

 Line step. From T point down the line T delay measurements seat height (28 cm) and put a point W. point W to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 A line knee length. From point T down on a vertical line delaying the measure pants length to knee (59 cm) and put a point K. from the point K to the left, spend a horizontal line.

 Line of the hips. Point W up the line TN measurements lay 1/3 of the height of the seat and put B (29 : 3 = 9.4 cm). Through point B to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the line step. From the point W to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 5.5 cm and put a point SH1. 
ШШ1 = 53 : 2 + 5,5 = 32 see 

 the bend Line. Line ШШ1 divided in half, the breaking point denoted R2. 
ШШ2 = Ш2Ш1 = 32 : 2 = 16 cm.
Through the point ø2 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the lines of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom indicate, respectively, T1, B1, K1 and N1. 

 Auxiliary line to the rear of the slice. From a point SH1 to the right on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put the point of SH3. 
Ш1Ш3 = 53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm
Through the point SH3 up and spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the lines of the waist and hips represent the T2 and B2. Line Т2Т1 divided into three equal parts, the right breaking point denoted T3. Through the point T3 up spend a vertical line, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 1.5 cm, and put a point T4. 
Т3Т4 = 53 : 10 in 1.5 = 3.8 cm
Point T4 connect the dotted line with a dot SH3. The intersection of the dotted line with the line of the hips indicate B3. Angle Т2Ш3Ш1 divide in half; from the point of SH3 on the line dividing the angle of lay 1/20 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 0.8 cm and put a point Ш4. 
Ш3Ш4 = 58 : 20 - 0,8 = 1.8 cm 

 Extension line of the step. From a point SH1 to the left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 2.3 cm and put a point Ш5. 
Ш1Ш5 = 53 : 10 + 2,3 = 7,6 cm 

 waist. Line Т2Т continue to the right in dotted lines. From point T4 on the dotted line, make a notch on the distance measurements of poluobhvat waist plus 3 inches and put a point T5. 
Т4Т5 = 38 : 2 + 4 = 23 see 

 Lines tuck. Line Т5Т4 divided in half, the dividing point down at right angles to the line Т4Т5 hold the line, where lay 14 cm, put a dot 14. From the point of division of left and right lay for 2 cm and put points T6 and T7. Points T6 and T7 connect the smooth lines with the point 14. 

 Width at the hip line. Line Б3Б continue to the right. From the point B3 to the right on a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm for loose fit and minus the width of the front halves of trousers between points ББ2 and put a point B4. 
Б3Б4 = 53 + 2 - 26,2 = 28,8 see 

 the bottom Line. From the point H1 to the left and to the right lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat tibia plus 1.5 cm and put the points N2 and N3. 
Н1Н2 = Н1Н3 = 18 : 2 + 1,5 = 10,5 cm 
From the point H1 down delay of 0.5 cm the resulting point connect straight lines with points of N2 and N3. 

 Side cut. Point T5, connect a smooth line with a point B4. Point B4 connect the dotted line with the point H2. From the intersection of the dotted line with the line of the left knee postpone 1 cm and put a point K2. Point B4, K2 and H2 connect a smooth line. 

 The width of the trousers through the knee. To the left of the point K1 on the horizontal delay line a distance equal to the segment К1К2, and put a point K3. 

 Stepper cut. Point K3, connect a smooth line from the point N3 and the dotted line with a dot Ш5. From the point K3 up on the dotted line lay a distance equal to К3Ш1 (with the front halves of trousers) minus 1 cm, and put a point Ш6. The dotted line between the points K3 and Ш6 divided in half; the point of division of a dotted line raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points Ш6 and K3. 

 Line the back of the slice. Line the back of the slice is performed through the point T4, B3, Ш4 and Ш6 a smooth line.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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