Chapter 1. MEASUREMENT OF FEMALE FIGURES. DIMENSIONAL SIGNS 

Constructive design of a drawing depends on the shape and size of the figure. In the structure of the drawing must lie all sizes shapes vertically and horizontally.
Initial data for calculation of the lengths of the structural fragments at the construction drawing are the measurements of the shape, i.e., dimensional signs. From accurate dimensional measurements and correct the drawing depends largely on the good fit on the figure.
To more accurately measure the shape, it is necessary to identify on it the position of the major points, called anthropometric. Measurement made between these points, the relevant explicit and easily palpable formations of the skeleton.
Dimensional signs are denoted with the following letters:
height ----------------------------------------------------------- In;
lengths, distances, arc -------------------------------------- D;
full loops ------------------------------------------------ About;
poluobhvat ---------------------------------------------------- With;
growth --------------------------------------------------------------- R;
the distance between the centers or protruding points - C;
width ---------------------------------------------------------- W;
diameters -------------------------------------------------------- d;
depth ---------------------------------------------------------- G.
Indexes to letters indicate locations of measurements. The list of measurements and their designators are listed in table.1, drawn up on the basis of OST 17-326 - 74 "Typical figures of women. Dimensional characteristics for designing clothes".
 

Using the data table. 1 and Fig. 1 - 13, it is possible to determine the dimensional characteristics of the shape.
 

Taking measurements is the first step in building the product drawing. Before taking measurements figure belt narrow belt (or rubber band), positioning it horizontally.
The exact position of the waist line is very important: the waist is the boundary between the upper and lower parts of the product, from its correct position depends on a good fit on the figure.
The fullness of the figures is determined by the circumference of hips, taking account of the protrusion of the abdomen in combination with chest girth third. Now the completeness of the product in the marking stand for: M - small, C - medium and B - big. Such a designation does not give a clear idea of the size of the figure, as the letters do not carry specific information. A new classification of standard figures, and most importantly, the new marking of garments for leading dimensional characteristics (R - Ohg III - Aboutb) will allow the buyer to easily choose for themselves the product.
Anthropologists have identified four polnochnye group. In the 1st group polnocnej chest and the third the circumference of the hips, taking account of the protrusion of the abdomen have a difference of 4 cm, in the 2nd - 8, 3rd - 12, 4th - 16, see

For example, figures 48 size:
Polnocna group Ong III Onb Onb Ong III
1 96 100 4
2-96 8 104
3 96 12 108
4th 96 112 16

According to the new typology polnochnye all four groups are present only in the group of sizes 44 - 52; group sizes of 54 - 60 - completeness (2-I, Z-I) and in the group of large size 62 - 68 - only one completeness (2-I).
In the schematic figure (Fig. 14) shows the change of the shape from the 1st to the 4th of fullness in face and profile.
 

The external contour of the bold lines in Fig. 14 marked figure 4-th completeness for all parameters. The exception is shoulder height. Line-height shoulder figures of 4-th completeness is inside the image.
The inner contour defines the shape of the 1st of completeness. The contours of figures 2 and 3 minutes fittings are inside the image.
The change is applied to all parameters determining the completeness, with the exception of the dimensional characteristic of the circumference of the chest of the third.
The absolute value of the dimensional characteristics of the model figures women's size 48 IV growth of the 1st - 4th fittings are given in table. 2.
 

In table. 3 shows the absolute value of the dimensional characteristics of the shapes full of women - 56 size 2nd and 3rd fittings and 64 the size of the 2nd completeness. The completeness of these figures is also determined by the size of the girth of the hips: 2 completeness figure 56 size corresponds to the circumference of the hips 120 cm (164 - 112 - 120), 3-I completeness - 124 cm (164 - 112 - 124), 2-I am the fullness of the shape size 64 - 136 cm (164 - 128 - 136).
 

The last two columns of the table. 2 displays the difference between the dimension characteristics of related size and height. Using these data, it is possible to find the optimum value of dimensional characteristic shapes of any size and growth from 44 to 52 size. If you increase the size or growth to the value of dimensional characteristic add the value from column 8 or 9, decreasing deduct this amount. For example, poluobhvat waist Witht figure 48 the size of the IV growth is 37 see the Difference between the dimension characteristics of adjacent sizes is 2.1 cm (column 8, table. 2). Therefore, poluobhvat waist size 50 figure IV growth will be equal to 37+2,1=39,1 cm, and figure 46 the size of the IV growth - 37 - 2,1=34,9 cm