This section briefly describes some silhouette forms adopted by contemporary modelling of womens dresses.
Modern silhouette dress form close to the natural proportions of the female figures, however, the demand for a greater development of more individualized clothing is entirely not satisfied.
This book is addressed to a wide circle of readers, it outlines all the materials for drawing bases on individual measurements of the figure of any woman. And yet even if such drawing fundamentals raises the question of whether the product is a silhouette and what shape you should choose for yourself.
Based on the materials of the Central scientific research Institute of sewing industry (Cniika) on the typology of female figures (some fullness in one size), we sought to look at the silhouette shapes of clothes is not in the theoretical development of their fashion trends, and in practical application, an evaluation of the nature of women and the proportions of their figures.
Therefore, the best practices selection model for women of the same size, but different fittings can be conditionally related to a particular silhouette, but the shape of the product will depend on the dimensional characteristics of the shapes of different fittings, which are based on measurements of the girths of the chest and hips, taking account of the protrusion of the abdomen. This principle can be recommended for figures of different sizes.
Polnochnye group reflect a new, Niesom developed a typology of female figures to reflect the changes in their proportions within the same size, and therefore, their dimensional measurements in bust and hips inside each size (see table. 2).

  FEATURE FEMALE FIGURES 48 SIZE DIFFERENT WIDTHS. 

Women's figures 1st and 4th fittings have the most significant difference in the measurement of thigh girth. Consequently, different proportions of the figures each of the fulness impose special requirements to the recommended silhouette forms of clothing.
The figures of women of the 2nd and 3rd fittings are intermediate on measurements of the thighs and can be treated according to the recommendations of the silhouette forms of the 1st and 4th polnotu.
Figure 2 completeness of the measurements the hips closer to the figure of the 1st of completeness, therefore, it is possible to use the recommendations of the silhouette forms of clothing for the figure of the 1st completeness; similarly for figures 3rd of completeness, you can use related recommendations for the shape of the 4th of completeness.
 

In Fig. 32 shows the recommended silhouettes of clothing (a, b, C, d) the figures for 1st polnocnej groups and examples (d, e, f, h).
Figure the 1st fullness is characterized by relatively broad shoulders and narrow hips, which is confirmed by her measurements: bust is 96 cm, hip - 100 cm, the Difference between the measurements of 4 cm Such figures in the home attributed to the sports figures, the most slender. They can recommend clothes all silhouettes, but the form it requires unconditional individualization. Of these figures the best form-fitting clothes with a tight fit at the hip line.The skirt can be used a variety of structural elements (folds, inserts wedges, flared details, etc.) that must create a tight fit at the hips and a slight extension at the bottom. The pleats may be of different distributions, for example, circular, with different distances between them, and a variety of alternating. However, the bottom line expansion folds should be minimal, necessary only then that the folds are not twisted.When using other structural elements for the expansion of the skirt hem (Godet, inserts wedges, the expansion of individual parts, etc.) retained the same principle - a tight fit on the hips and a slight extension at the bottom. The most profitable to expand the skirt front and back. The bodice of the product can also be of any silhouette, but most effectively reveal the shape of the product with bodice of three-dimensional form.
Sleeves are recommended for any casual small bulk form, as above, so below. The least profitable for the figure of the fullness of the sleeve Raglan.
 

Figure 4-th completeness of the 48 size is relatively narrow, sloping shoulders and wide hips, what is also confirmed by her measurements - the same bust as in the 1st completeness, i.e. 96 cm, hip 112 cm is equal to the Difference between the measurements of the girths of the chest and hips of equal 16 see Such figures are usually attributed to the feminine figures. They can recommend clothes all silhouettes. In Fig. 33 shows the recommended silhouette for the uniform (a, b, C, d) for figure 4th polnocnej groups and examples (d, e, f, h).It is desirable for figures of this proportion is to use products with more or less extension down even for products straight silhouette. The top products effectively brings out the figure in poluprilegayuschy and adjoining silhouette. It is recommended to emphasize the bottom of the bodice different structural elements: Darts, belt loops and a removable wide belts, undercuts etc.
The amount of extension of the skirts bottom line is dictated by the age of the woman. Can you recommend a skirt extension as from the waist (skirt "the sun"), and from the hip line. If the skirt is cut in a circular crease, they can make a significant extension to the folds at the bottom.
Sleeves can be various three-dimensional shape as above, so below. Less suited to figures of these proportions cap sleeves.

  SILHOUETTES. FORM-FITTING WOMEN'S LIGHTWEIGHT CLOTHING

In this Chapter a brief description of the basic silhouettes taken in modern modeling women's lightweight clothes, and given the pattern of clothing items some silhouette forms.
The first impression of any subject, which is perceived by us visually, is the impression of its General shape, the weight, the limited contours of its silhouette.
The visual perception of contour suit or dress creates the impression of its silhouette. Therefore, we can note that the definition a silhouette is an important element, generalizing the expression of fashion for a certain period, and is a graphical representation of the main features of the new form. Silhouette is a major factor in the design of clothing, they determined that the product gives the figure of a woman.
Separate items of clothing - a form of a shoulder, its height and length, form-fitting sleeves, the height of the lines of the waist and hips, length is determined by the nature of the silhouette, its proportions and reflect the most important features of the shape of the product. However, the skirt length and sleeve width are the elements that are susceptible to change with the change of the silhouette. The sharpness of the silhouette reflected in the most fashionable models of clothes, with clothes for everyday wear silhouette form softened and averaged.
Most women feel good in clothes that are not particularly attention grabbing and silhouette form which is more traditional.
The contours of the clothing, its parts, the parts can be seen as lines. Clothing line are divided into constructive and decorative. Through constructive lines create a form fitting garment as a whole and its parts.
The most important structural lines are the lines upper part of the piece (lines of the shoulder and side sections, the line width of the chest and waist), and hips. To the constructive lines of gown in should include the top a tuck, extending from mid-shoulder cut. Therefore, you cannot create a product without solving the issues of its design, and not taking into account ways of its processing in accordance with the feature fabric.
The existing link between design and structural modeling determined the direction of this book.
In addition to construction lines that define the shape of the detail in clothing, mention should be made of the lines being different colours: these are reliefs, folds in the terrain, folds, tucks, edgings, embroideries, etc. the Meaning of these lines as a decorative very important.
Decorative line not only decorate the dress but divide and shape within the silhouette, thus helping to apply the silhouette of the clothing to the figures of different proportions.
Sometimes constructive lines serve as decorative, such as reliefs, the contours of the collar, pockets, tucks, neck etc.
Often decorative lines enrich the basic shape of the dress, without changing its design, is its finish (belt, straps, embroidery, etc.). However, to achieve greater artistic expression in fancy goods trim and accessories should be more complex than in everyday products.
To the modern trend of fashion House of fashion recommend several silhouettes of women's clothing. The simultaneous existence of several silhouettes of clothing says about the diversity of modern fashion, the desire of the industry to better meet the individual needs of our population.
In confirmation of the above will serve as an example from the history of formation and development of Soviet modeling women's clothing in the first House, organized in 1934 - 1935 in Moscow. At the time the model was developed in one silhouette, the individualization of the models were missing - this issue wasn't raised and was not discussed. The models were selected mainly with the figures 46 - 48 sizes. In the figures of models by the method of tattoos created patterns for factories (mainly products are simply cut).At the same time was simulated products cut Russian folk clothing, who continued the tradition created by N. Lamanova.
Naturally, creating a model of only one silhouette, impossible to foresee, not only individual solutions for the mass market, but also to determine the age characteristics of the population, especially that clothes for all age groups were developed by the technical reproduction of patterns of models and patterns 46 - 48 sizes.Therefore, modern fashion, based on a wide variety of silhouette forms and their development, developed a new typology of size groups of four fittings in the same size indicates a new direction in modeling and clothing design. Instead of leveling individual characteristics comes maximum individualization of clothing for different age groups.
House models offer some of the most distinctive silhouettes of modern women's clothing.
  Semilying silhouette (Fig.45 - 60, see Appendix) is characterized by a small amount on the chest, fit to shape, with a slight fit at the waist. The degree of prisalivaya depends on a woman's body. The position of the waist line on the product not always corresponds to its position in the figure, i.e., the waist line on the product can be located above or below its natural position. The skirt is extended downwards; the degree of extension at the bottom also depends on the figure, and especially of the fullness at the hip line. It may be somewhat extended downward from the hips, and pleats open from the hip line.The overall silhouette follows the contours of the figure, without selecting her.
The shape of the silhouette is achieved by using vertical reliefs coming from the shoulder seams and armholes, tucks, yoke, folds in the terrain. Relief lines are positioned in such a way that provide the bulge on the back in the scapula area, on the shelves, in the chest. Highlighted the bodice, the shape and size of the collar. Sleeves, bonding, cap, casual Raglan. We can assume that all of the silhouettes poluprilegayuschy is the most acceptable in practical clothes.
This silhouette fits a lot of figures of different ages; it is applicable to many types of range of women's clothing.
  Straight silhouette (Fig. 1 - 28, see Appendix) depending on the range of products is divided into several types:
first - cylindrical, with slight allowances for free customized fit. Narrow hem products requires a focus in the top part;
the second is the "shirt" with significant allowances for free customized fit, especially in platiunum range, often, this silhouette is characterized by an elongated shoulder cut;
third - and most traditional; products silhouette this kind netrezvye waist. Their pattern corresponds to the basic drawing. Products straight silhouette sleeves can be bonding, cap, casual Raglan.
Suggested silhouettes can be developed in all major categories of products of light clothing considering the specifics of the groups polecam and individual characteristics.
Direct and semilying silhouettes evolve depending on the age groups and dimensional characteristics of the female figure. Clothing for older women with figures 46 - 48 sizes can be guided poluprilegayuschy and straight silhouettes.
For fat women offers a straight silhouette clothing with a slight fit at the waist, especially the front. For proportional stacked full of women can be recommended and semilying silhouette.
  Adjacent silhouette (Fig. 29 - 45, see Appendix)- a youth, it is characterized by the bodice, cut at the waist line; the waist belt quite clearly, sometimes wide, and Darts.
The bodice can be attached, which is achieved by reliefs, Darts running from the shoulder seams and arm openings, and spaced according to the waist line. However, the bodice can be soft, with a slight overlap over the waist. Belts varied: draped, wide and narrow.
Skirt adjacent the silhouette can be more bottoms with the seams, and with minor extension. The skirts pleats are used, the tails, cut in the oblique direction of the warp threads of the fabric, coquette, wedges coming from the belt or from the belt, located above and below the hip line, etc.
In the modern fashion found in a-line silhouette (Fig. 61 - 68, see Appendix). This silhouette is also recommended for young people. It is characterized surrounding the bodice. Cutting the waist line is above or below the chest line, her bottom is flared, wide, cascading, sometimes smooth, soft. Shoulders little straight.
A-line silhouette can be recommended for figures of the 4th of completeness with a large girth at the hip line. Products this silhouette of these figures can be one-piece extension from the arm openings on the side cut, and the middle of the back.
  Russian folk clothing (Fig. 23 - 25, 65 - 68, see Appendix) is one of the assets of the material culture of the Russian people and our national wealth.
Talented costume designer N. P. Lamanova was the first to describe the patterns of development of the Russian costume, and the possibilities inherent in it, to apply the principles and techniques of its construction in the design of modern clothes.
The work of fashion designers Houses models of our country for the development of the principles of traditional clothing and modern solutions is on the path of searching for the laws of modeling folk costumes, laws, dictated and compiled during the centuries of practical necessity as a result of collective creativity of the people.
Building on the achievements in the works of fashion designers and designers ODMO, SHCB and other organizations, as well as to your personal experience, the authors have identified the importance of silhouette and design features of only one of the types of folk clothing - shirts South great complex clothes.
The bulk form of the shirt, her waist and sleeves define the silhouette of her form as a kind of straight silhouette with an extended shoulder cut.
Centuries have passed, the shirt has stood the test of time and entered in the classic wardrobe of the modern woman as a dress-shirt.
The cut of Russian folk dress is a long-standing and our national wealth. Russian dresses in the modern fashion is characterized by soft, slightly extended shoulder line, a rectangular lower armhole, voluminous sleeves and bodice. For convenience and freedom of movement of the arm in the sleeve and side seam of the bodice often stachivaya gusset. Gusset - a surprisingly appropriate structural element, creates a special comfort in lifting hands, as it is tailored under the oblique direction of the fabric, and consequently, has greater elongation.The compositional center of the decorative build a dress-shirt is mainly in its upper part.
Length of products in modern fashion depends on the age categories and the proportions of the figure. At this time in the direction of the fashion set dresses length 6 - 10 cm below the knee. However, this length is not constant. Skirt can be lengthened or shortened depending on the age, silhouette and proportions, the function of the product.
Sleeves, as we have already pointed out, are one of the constituent elements of the dress, the shape of which is determined by the shape and direction of fashion.
In modern clothes special attention given to the variety-fitting sleeves. They can be tselnokrajnie with gusset and without it; with a cut-off side part of the bodice, which flares into a gusset; with the bottom half, turning into a gusset; Russian casual dresses with rectangular low armhole with gusset and without it. Bottom of sleeves can be narrow and wide, ruching or pleats, cuffs.
Various form of sleeve Raglan sleeves: soft small large, top low more direct line down on the cuff with ruching or folds, with a different line of Raglan and different widths at the bottom.
  Casting sleeves can be one-piece with the Assembly on crown, narrow at the bottom; long double seam with an inverted pleat at the bottom and ruching on the cuff; short with pleats on the crown, tuck in the top part and tuck into the terrain, etc.