Section V BRIEF INFORMATION ABOUT SEWING WOMEN's LIGHTWEIGHT CLOTHING 

This section provides brief information about the processing of individual details, most commonly occurring in women's light clothing. 
Sewing any kind of women's easy wear to start with machining parts front and back, if she's single, and parts of shelves and back, if the product cut at the waist, and then treated the skirt and connect it with a bodice.
The details of the blouse and skirt are treated in the same sequence and details of the bodice and skirt of the dress, but perform additional operations: process the bottom of the blouse, side zipper and the upper section of the skirt. 
In the process of sewing every bridging or nastroni seam, and every processed item needs to be ironed on the reverse side through a damp protohellenic until he dry under the iron. 
To prevent misalignment of the parts, and right fit products in the figure parts should be Ironing the direction of the warp threads. 

Chapter 1. TREATMENT DETAILS WOMENS DRESS

TREATMENT OF THE FRONT OR SHELVES 

Before or shelves of the bodice begins processing with grinding a beam darted from the shoulder and side sections, the waist line, from cutoff armholes, soft folds, tucks, gathering assemblies.
Detail items marked by the line of the tucks, fold the face inside line mid-tuck and smatyvay. Tuck grind for the side, where tuck takes place in the direction of the grain lines of the fabric. Tuck on the right shelf grind from the edge to the top and on the left side from the top tuck to the shoulder cut. Native lines are laid, a little away from a running line to make it easier to remove the sewing thread. When you have finished stitching, leaving the ends of the thread length of 5 - 7 cm and tie knot, then cut thread. Tuck iron depending on model. Often Darts from the shoulder cut of the iron in the direction of the onboard slicer or the middle line of the part.
On the shelves of dresses or blouse instead of the tucks from the shoulder cut sometimes make two to foursoft parallel folds. Folds first smatyvay frequent stitches then grind off as well as tuck. 
Tuck, located waist, treated as described above. To tuck better lying, they can pull an iron on the middle line on the reverse side details or nadsech.
Darts from side-cut is treated in the same sequence, and Darts from the shoulder cut. To tuck dragging the side seam after grinding them priorivet and metiaut, positioning the line closer to the line of mid.
The line of the shoulder slice instead of Darts, you can do the smocking. According to the planned lines with a low the tension on the upper (needle) thread is laid at the sewing machine five six parallel lines of small frequency. Pulling the lower (Shuttle) thread, assemble and distribute the Assembly. On the wrong side detail~. the ends of the thread tie a knot and cut. On the reverse the side parts at both ends of the lay lines of the longitudinal folds. Inside the folds lay a strip of cloth to prevent tear lines when wearing the product.
To obtain assemblies under the yoke and line podraza lay two parallel lines. Distance from cutoff details to the first line 1 cm, the distance between the lines is 0.5 cm.
Pleats and pintucks on the shelves handle up to join the tucks. Tucks called small pleat width 0,2 - 0,3 cm Pintucks and pleats easier to zastrochit in the direction of the grain lines, but sometimes their'manufactures and in the transverse direction. On the fold line of each fold first, lay a running stitch. For zatrachivaniya folds use the guide bar or tab area. If the machine is not is provided with such devices, the width of the folds and the distance between them it is necessary to mark line and make the notch at the top and bottom linesbend. Folds priorivet through moist protohellenic. Pintucks stroke on weight, i.e. one edge of the part attached with pins to the Ironing Board wrong side up, and the second edge holding the left hand. Then the item update and cut the pattern.
  Processing loops. On products of cotton and silk fabrics legkopolirujushchiesja slices of the loop are made on the looped machine, Shuttle machine zigzag stitching, on Shuttle the machine from which you removed the rail the mechanism of material transfer, and the item tucked into the Hoop, or overcast by hand. 
Wool and crisp silk fabrics treated with obrazkami loop, such loops are called obraznymi.
Sometimes on blouses, dresses and skirts made of opaque fabric with a clasp to the bottom loop are made in the seam primaqiune strap. For dresses and blouses with clasp back to back, and zipper sleeves can be recommended loop from rolica. These loops have received the name air. They can be made not only from strips of fabric and thread, cord, etc. 
Manufacturer of all types of hinges in the products starts with their markup.
At a distance of 0.3 cm to the right from the middle of the transmission plan a line mid oblachnykh loops and perform the frequent stitching straight stitches. On this line mark out of the loop. Two cross marks limit the length loop. Parallel to the line loop means lay two parallel lines at a distance equal to the width of the frame. The width of the frame depends on the density of the fabric and the direction of fashion in women's clothing. For stitches recommended frame width of 0.3 - 0.5 cm 
To handle oblasnoy loop cut out two piping-lobular thread direction. The width obtachki equal to 3 cm, length 2 - 3 cm longer than the length of the loop. Piping bend in half wrong side inside and priorivet the wetted protohellenic. The bend line on the facing with chalk or thread scheduled the width of the frame and lay a parallel line.
Piping applied to the front side of the shelf bends from the line of the middle of the loop. Piping primetyvajut to the shelf so that the lines, limiting the width of the frame on the front and on the facing, match between a. Piping pritachivajut parallel lines of length equal to the length loop. The ends of the lines secured with knots. On the reverse side shelf cut with scissors through the middle of the loop, starting from the center. Not reaching the end of lines 0.5 cm, an incision is made in the form of the area. Piping turn on the wrong side shelves, aligning widthframe. The area at the end of the cut loop pritachivajut on the reverse side to obtachku two lines and produisait. After grinding the sides and screwing out podborta in the middle of each loop from the shelves navigate labels so that they were visible on podborta. Then a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the run of the thread around primetyvajut podbot hinges (so that the fabric does not shift) and cut podbot laid label nadeeka corners at the ends of the loops.
Fabric podborta line of the cut bends along the length of the loop and sew hand stitches over the edge silk threads in the fabric color of the dress. 
To obtain the loops in the stitching of the strap primaqiune the bar cut out in the direction of the grain lines of fabric width 6 cm cutting right shelves from the middle of the make allowance of 2.5 cm on podbot. The edge of the fabric should be aligned with the cut podborta. In the middle the details of the shelves lay a running line. The bar bend in half the length of the underside and inside priorivet. The front of the shelvesput the bar face and primetyvajut. Then outline the place the location of the hinges. The first loop is at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm from the line of the neck. The length of the loop should match the diameterbuttons, often 1 - 3 cm distance between the loops is selected in depending on the length of the loop: the smaller the loop, the smaller the distance. If the dress is made of a loop of length 2 cm, the distance betweenloops recommended 5 - 6 cm.
Bar tacked on pritachivajut on the machine, interrupting stitching at the start of each loop and leaving the ends of the thread length 5 - 7 cm for tying knots in the ends of the lines. 
Thread smachivaniya is removed, the seam primaqiune strap rautureau. Upstairs bar bend face inside and grind off the upper sections. Area twist and straighten. The edges of the area and through mid-strappaving a running line. Cut the strap bends on the wrong side and sutured. 
For the manufacture of aircraft hinges of rolica cut out a strip of cloth with a width of 5 - 6 cm Striped bendalong the middle face inward, smatyvay and sew on machine at distance 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the line of inflection. For screwing out rolica on the front side at one end fasten the thread and a needle let rolica. Gradually pushing the needle, pull the end rolica with the thread on the front side. Rulik moisturize and priorivet on weight, gently pulling it.
Hinges can be produced from a rolica and cut into segments of desired length. On the right side clasp is marked loop. Segments rolica pin to pin to the shelf, the seam was facing the line of the middle of the part. These primetyvajut periods of frequent stitches, and then pritachivajut on the car. Seam priorivet. Podbot or facing primetyvajut face to the workpiece, to which Brittany loop. After grinding the seam priorivet. Podbot with hinges correct, spawn braska on the edge and again priorivet. In the same sequence is processed in the clasp of rolica.
Processing serged loops starts with the layout of the loops with pins. Thread namachivajut line cutting loops and labels to limit the length of the loop. The fabric is not shifted due to cutting loop at a distance of 0.5 cm from the line of the cut paving a running line. Then the cloth is cut according to the planned line manual and overcast loop stitches. At middle of loop at the direction of the Board of stitches are looped stitches are tightened to the loop had a rounded shape, and at the end of the loop doing the fitting. Looppriorivet on the reverse side of the part.
In the women's lightweight clothes according to the model of the product is the zipper with buttons and loops to use the zipper. There are several ways of handling zipper but regardless of this braid it is recommended to ultimate with slight tension on the fabric.
The most simple method is to stitch the zipper into the slit. Allowances on the clasp bends on the wrong side of the details. Serged slices zametyvayut and sutured manually. Thread zametcino lines removed, and the suture priorivet. Cut edges are placed back to back and smatyvay. On the reverse side along cut lines primetyvajut zipper. The clasp pritachivajut on front side details; the bottom line can be finished by mysik. Lower the end of the braid is fixed by hand on the reverse side. Clasp priorivet from the inside.
The zipper in the seam or fold with the front side details close small fold. To do this, to both slices when cutting details make allowance for a 1.5 cm seam Allowance on bends the wrong side and iron. 
Zipper primetyvajut the links on the left side exceed the line of inflection allowance, and pritachivajut next to the links. On the right side zipper close fabric and pritachivajut on the front side. If zipper stachivaya not in the seam, and the cut of the main parts, not with allowance for the clasp, the first cut is treated with a facing.
On part (back or shelves) schedule a thread to a new location the length of the zipper (at least 18 cm). In the direction of the grain lines cut out the facing width of 8 - 10 cm long zipper on the 5 6 see wrong side of piping plan a line of mid. The facing is applied the backless detail or shelves, right sides inside, smatyvay on the line of mid-frequent stitches and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.3 cm from the her. Between the lines detail a facing cut, short by 0.8 cm to the end of the line. The end of the cut are treated the same as the ends oblasnoy loop.
On the front side parts at a distance of 1 cm from the seam paving a running line. Along this line primetyvajut the zipper, from neck and pritachivajut on sewing the car on the front side of the part. 
  Processing of the boards. Board women's light clothing can be podborany treated with a silk ribbon or bias strip of fabric. 
Treatment of the product with a single cut by podborny begins with laying the center line on the front detail. From this line lay stock 2.5 - 3 cm to the processing of the clasp. Internal slices of podborov bends on the wrong side of 0.5 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold. Seam produisait. 
Often side treated with a strip of cotton fabric, which pre-deleteroute. The gasket is applied on the front side podborta and grind on the inner slice podborta and the shoulder cut. Seam rautureau and padbolt turn on the front side. The edge of podborta correct, spawn and priorivet.
Obecnie loop on the shelf are made to the machining of the boards, and after grinding they are treated on podborta. 
Manufacturer of overlock sewing loops is the last operation in the processing of products. 
The connection collar of two parts with vrachevanie the lower collar into the neckline. Nadziejko in the middle of the lower collar combined with nadrezkoj on line the middle of the back, and the ends of the cut - nasecki on the middle lines of the shelves.
The upper collar primetyvajut and pritachivajut to the upper sections of podborov on the reverse side. Iron seams to the side of the collar. Podborca top collar pritachivajut to the shelves and bottom collar. Collargrind three sides and a seam in the corners of the collar and the sides trimmed. The angle between the side and collar cut before reaching the line 0.2 see Podborta and turn the collar on the front side. Edge straighten and spawn stitches with a length of 1 cm from the bottom borovnica, releasing edging from top of collar width 0.1 cm
The remaining section of the seam vrachevanie the top of the collar to the neckline bends inward and sutured manually. Shoulder cut podborta also stitched manually to the shoulder seam products. Treated sides and collar priorivet. 
In products with collars, single cut shoulder with tops podborov, processing starts with grinding medium in the upper sections of the collar. Then top collar with podborany primetyvajut and pritachivajut to the shelves and the lower collar, as described above, combining the average. seam top the collar with the middle of the back.
Processed podbot, one-piece with the lapel, place face on the front side of the shelves, aligning the slices, and chop off the pins. Podbot and a shelf with smatyvay fit podborta in the corner of the ledge, over the edge of the lapel and on the site the location of the hinges. The details of the grind from the shelves. The seam in the corners lapel cut. Podbot turn; the edge of the lapel and sides and straighten spawn: the edge of the lapel from the side of the shelf and the edge of a Board on the site snap side podborta. When you release the inflorescence emerge from Kant podborta and shelves with a width of 0.1 cm 
, the Cut side can be treatedsilk braid. Pritachivajut braid at the front of the shelves. Slices the Board previously overcast seam with the width of 0.5 cm 
on the seam Allowance cut; after the adhesive seam primaqiune braid primetyvajut its edge to the shelf.
On items with a shift podborany that can be worn not buttoning, primitivna braid starting from the lower edge of the shelf at the front side and ends 2 cm above the top hinge. As silk ribbon has a greater elongation than the top fabric, we recommend that you first pin her pins and then tack. Braid pritachivajut silk threads in the fabric color. Then pin the braid to the shelf primetyvajut and scribbled on the machine side podborta. On the corners details the braid slightly pokazyvaut or lay youngthe tucks. Seams primaqiune priorivet the wetted protohellenic on the reverse side.
Elastic bend on the wrong side and sew over the edge frequent hand stitches. 
If the product does not have a clasp on the edge of the sides, and shelves shall not to come one another, the sections of the neck and bottom can handle the facing of finishing fabrics or fabric products. Usually tailor piping width is 1.5 - 2 cm
The facing, cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads, stack front party on the wrong side shelves, primetyvajut, aligning the sections, and pritachivajut seam width 0.5 cm At the corners of the sections of the shelves lay folds. After removal of the thread primitivne seam priorivet. Obtachku bent on the front side details, straighten and spawn. Slice bends inward pin pins, primetyvajut and scribbled on edge.
The cut side can be treated with facing double-folded. The facing width 3 - 3.5 cm fold in half lengthwise wrong side inside and priorivet. Folded facing primetyvajut on the front side the workpiece, aligning the sections, and pritachivajut on the car. Seam primaqiune priorivet. The facing folded to the wrong side andspawn at the edge of a Board. Bent section of piping zastrugivajut by car the seam primaqiune.

THE CONNECTION OF THE SHELVES AND BACK

The back and shelves fold right sides inwards and chop the pins on the back: left shoulder seams from the neck to the armhole, right from the armhole to the neckline. The fit of the backrest is fixed a running stitch. The grinding parts are back. After smachivaniya fit backless storevault, if the value of landing the big one.
Before grinding the side sections of the backrest and shelves fold right sides inwards and joint shear pins toward the armhole. Details smatyvay and sew on the machine: one side seam on the shelf, the other on the back. Seams rautureau or iron to the side of the shelves. Cut parts overcast after grinding welds. 

TREATMENT OF COLLARS AND CONNECTING THEM WITH THE PRODUCTS

Collars light clothing is usually cut out of two parts - top collar and bottom. Both parts fold right sides inwards and smatyvay three sections, Posiva upper collar in the corners. Grinding performed from the bottom of the collar. To the corners of the collar not curled up, the lower collar is cut out to About S cm smaller the top of the collar at the cut ends and departure. Then the collar turn out, straighten the seam and spawn on the edge, releasing from the top collarless, edge width 0.1 cm Seam grinding priorivet.
If the collar is made with a lining of cotton fabric, its pre-deleteroute. The gasket is placed on the wrong side top collar and split off the parts with pins. Then stack upper and lower collars right sides inside and smatyvay along with gasket. On the corners of the upper collar pokazyvajut. After grinding details a seam in the corners are cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm Strip cut to the line of stitching. Processed collar priorivet, turn on the front side, the seams and corners and straighten againpriorivet, releasing, edging toward the bottom of the collar.
Turn-down collar umatyvaet and stachivaya in the neck from the wrong side of the product. Then cut the bottom of the collar bends inwards and sutured manually. If the collar has a stand, loop on the collar mark and overcast after vrachevanie. 
  Collar umatyvaet in the neck, folding the bodice, right sides inside, and stachivaya. After autoimune seam in the side of the stand-up collar cut collar bends and sutured manually. 
  The stand-up collar with extended ends and tie a bow cut out in the direction of grain lines with a width of 6 - 10 cm and length 70 cm (the length of the collar with the seam allowance on the bow). The strip along the bend in the middle of the underside and inside priorivet. First grind the ends the stand-up collar. To do this, fold the strap along the face inside, smatyvay at a distance of 0.7 cm from the cut edge and sew up to the marks vrachevanie collar in the neck. The seam on the reverse priorivet side, turn and set the seam, zametyvayut edge. The rest of the stand-up collar stachivaya in the neck. To do this, you tuck one slicethe stand-up collar and umatyvaet in the neck. Seam vrachevanie iron in side of the collar-stand. The second cut bends, primetyvajut to the seam vrachevanie collar in the neck from the wrong side of the bodice and hem manually. The collar and the allowance for bow you can find at oblique the thread direction and different widths.

TREATMENT OF SLEEVES AND CONNECTING THEM WITH THE PRODUCT 

Set-in sleeves can be short and long, narrow, and wide. We recommend the following methods of processing a set of sleeves of the most common forms and connect them with the product. 
  Processing short sleeves begin with the grinding of the side sections. The lower cut sleeve primetyvajut and pritachivajut the facing width of 4 cm, cut to the same the direction of the warp threads, and sleeves. Seam primaqiune piping iron. The facing folded to the wrong side, the edge of the spawn with side piping, releasing piping, sleeve width 0.1 cm, and priorivet. 
Cut piping bends, priorivet and after primitivne to the sleeve hem by hand. 
The cuff can be laced, not pritchina piping and bent it cut. For this when cutting out sleeves make allowance for suturing width 4 5 see
  The processing of one-piece long, narrow sleeves, as well as the short, begin with grinding of the side sections. Before smachivanie slices the sleeve pulled in front of the cut, over length 1 - 1.5 cm on top part of front sleeve is cut. An elbow cut on the level of the elbow sleeve sativum or sew a tuck. 
Darts from the elbow cut sleeves are set on the level of the elbow. Seam grinding iron towards the bottom of the sleeves. 
At the bottom of the sleeve on the cut tag, limiting the length of your clasp. The seam of the sleeve smatyvay to the mark and sew on the machine. Seam rautureau with the reverse side.
The lower cut sleeve primetyvajut obtachku, cut into 2 cm wider than the length of the fastener, and pritachivajut on the car. After adhesive seam, the facing turned to wrong side. Seam straighten, at the same time valtiva on the edge, and priorivet. 
To the underside of the clasp to primaqiune piping primetyvajut rulik for the manufacture of air loops. The upper section of piping and bends zastrugivajut the car on the front side at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm frombend. Bent edge of a hem by hand. Instead of loops you can vacate zipper. 
  The processing of sleeves with cuffs starting with the manufacture of the cuffs. Cut in the direction of common thread cuff folded in half face inside, smatyvay side slices and grind. The seam allowance in the corners and trimmed cuff turn on the front side. After the buttonhole cuffs priorivet.
Sleeves with a single cuff is treated in this manner. On some distance from the lower edge of the sleeve lay two the parallel lines at the low tension of the needle thread. Pulling the lower thread of these lines, get the Assembly. They were distributed in such a way that the width of the bottom of the sleeve was equal to the length of the cuff. 
After this pritachivajut cuff. Sleeve and cuff fold right sides inside, smatyvay and pritachivajut the cuff from the sleeve. Seam iron in the cuff side.
At a distance of 5 cm from the lower edge sleeves up put labels. They limit the length of the seam, grinding slices sleeves. Slices often overcast stitches or tuck inside 0.3 - 0.5 cm and on the front side on the edge of the paving machine line. Seam piecing together sections of the sleeve rautureau and fixed at the mark cross stitching. 
The lower part of the cuff that bends inward, primetyvajut to the seam primaqiune the top and scribbled on the machine or sew manually.
Sleeve with a fold-over cuff is treated with the following way. Processed bend the cuff in half lengthwise and lay temporary stitching on the fold line. 
At the lower cut sleeve lay 7 cm from the front of the slice and put a label. From her lay still 3.5 cm and also put a label. Them make the notch with a depth of 0.8 - 1 see Slice between nasecki bends twice inside out and zastrugivajut.
The remaining portion of the cut - sleeves gather at the Assembly moreover, in the area from the first label to the front section made a small number of assemblies. Most pribivayut on average the area of the cut sleeve. Then grind off the seam of the sleeve and pritachivajut cuff. 
Folded cuff with sleeve front sides inside, smatyvay and pritachivajut on the car on the sleeve. Seam iron in the cuff side. The bottom side of the cuff applied to the seam primaqiune, tuck inside and sew by hand. Cuff folded in the intended crease line and priorivet.
Set-in sleeves, regardless of their form stachivaya in the armhole equally. 
Before wtaching the sleeve in the armhole, along the cut of the top part of the sleeve rare pave two parallel lines. Length of lines is limited labels. The top part of the sleeve pribivayut.
The alignment marks made on the sleeve after fitting, machined a sleeve put in the armhole and chop the pins from the sleeves. If the dress is sewn from fabrics with big elongation, then along the cut of the armhole from shoulder seam to 10+12 cm down primetyvajut a strip of cloth, cut in the direction of the equity thread. Thereafter, the sleeve is pinned with pins, umatyvaet and stachivaya. Seam iron and overcast slices.