Chapter 2. ALLOWANCES TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT IN DESIGNING GARMENTS

The drawing of product design is necessary not only to measure the figure, but also to choose the necessary allowances, as clothing is not the same everywhere close to the body. Therefore, each dimension of the product equal to the corresponding dimension on the human figure plus the allowance for loose fit. Based on the simulation experience, the allowances for free customized fit, you need to take the minimum (i.e., technical), because after building drawing fundamentals begins the process of constructive simulation. With the constructive simulation are allowances, creating a silhouette of the product, i.e.the allowances for decorative and constructive design. The principle of constructing the foundations for a stable and should reflect in flattened form surface shape.
Under the silhouette know the contour of the clothing characterized by the degree of conformance of the product to the figure in the chest, waist, thighs and height and width of shoulders, width of the product below.
For products , straight-leg silhouette typical of allowances, providing the same width of the product line of the chest, waist and hips, i.e., the straight silhouette is close to the shape of a rectangle with hard or soft forms, depending on fashion trends.
For products adjacent silhouette allowances on constructive and decorative design are minimal. Products adjacent silhouette characterized by a tight fit at the waist, different cut of the bodice and skirt shape from very narrow to wide cut "the sun".
Products semi-fitted silhouette occupy an intermediate position between straight and adjoining silhouette with a relatively uncertain position of the waist line. Semilying silhouette follows the contours of the figures, revealing it, and is characterized by vertical lines, as if sliding on the figure, due to the insignificant difference between the measurements of the girths of chest, waist and hips.
  The extended silhouette or a-line, characterized by a tight fit of the product at the shoulder belt and the extension downwards. Soft cascading tails mostly located on the back with the constructive solution of the product with the use of various forms coquettes. The wide distribution of the a-line silhouette in popular clothes.
In table. 4 shows the allowances for free customized fit to poluobhvat chest third Pg III, waist Pt and thighs P6 for products with different degree of fit.
 

In table. 5 shows the allowances to measure the arm circumference Ofp required when making drawings of the sleeves.