The design of the sleeves is determined by the shape and cover of the product.
Head sleeves and shoulders products are important areas defining its profile. Sleeve parts can be different lengths: long, short, three quarters, seven-eighths.
They are distinguished by the form: narrow, wide, flared, straight, dilated upwards.
The purpose of the sleeve is divided into functional, classic, elegant, and style - Raglan, cap, combined, shirt casual.
The drawings of the sleeves of all kinds, shape and cut are based in whole or in part using the drawing basics set-in sleeves. Construction drawing sleeves is currently a difficult problem, which must be given serious consideration.
The dynamics of the product largely depends on the correct design drawing sleeve. A necessary condition in building it is a good pair of lifts the sleeve with the armhole, although the curve of the sleeves and the curve of the arm openings have a completely different configuration. Under good pairing includes not only the visual perception of the correctness, but also the ease of sleeve operation.
The top of the sleeve, which stachivaya in the armhole of the bodice, called alignment sleeves. The shape of the head sleeve and the sleeve width at the depth of the openings depend on measurements of arm circumference and Op allowance to this measure, and is closely connected with the shape of the armhole. The width of the openings depend on the allowance to measure the arm circumference and is 500~0 this allowance.
Construction method you can build a drawing of the classic single-joint or double seam of the sleeve, functional sleeve (with a slight shortening of the top part) or a sleeve casual shirt. All other forms and the cut of the sleeves is achieved by a method of constructive simulation on the basis of the drawing basics sleeves, checked on the pair of lines of the top part of the sleeves and the openings (see Fig. 25 - 28).

NARROW SLEEVES

In the drawing, the foundations of the sleeve is carried out through the centers of radii R1 and R2 (see Fig. 28) a line mid sleeve. On this line from the highest point of the crown lay measurements length sleeves to the elbow, Etc.Lok and sleeve length to wrist, Etc.Zap. Through the resulting points draw horizontal (Fig. 34).
 

The length of the sleeves to to the elbow can be determined without the availability of measurements, Etc.Locke. The standard position for the elbow is 2 cm above the point midway between the lines of the height of the top part and bottom.
The width of the narrow sleeve at the bottom is 1/4 of the width of the sleeve at the level of the depth of the armhole.
The width of the sleeves divide in half and lay bottom line of equally left and right of the middle line. Plotting points connect points on the line width of the sleeves. The construction of the narrow sleeves finished. Such a sleeve is used in goods of elastic textiles or knitwear.
Semilying sleeve can be obtained by increasing the width of the narrow sleeve hem 1/8 of the width of the sleeve at the level of the depth of the armhole.

NARROW SLEEVES WITH ELBOW DARTS

Narrow sleeves are based on poluprilegayuschy sleeves. For convenience, in the wear sleeve through the elbow extend. This is performed as follows. The right and left of the center line of the sleeve postpone periods equal to 1/8 of the width of the sleeve at the bottom (Fig. 35, points 1 and 2). Points 1 and 2 is connected to the point 3. Make an incision sleeve through the elbow to the line 1 - 3 and 1 - 3 to point 3. Then close the sleeve from the elbow to 1/8 of the width of the sleeve hem to open the tuck at the elbow, which will provide free bending of the arms. Hold the new line of the bottom of the sleeves.For comfort and convenience, introduce a second tuck in the elbow due to the dilution of the sleeve on the line width of the sleeves at the depth of the armhole.
 

In Fig. 34 and 35 the middle line of the sleeve held without shifting her bottom in the direction of the front 2 cm

PUFF SLEEVES 

On the basis of drawing narrow sleeves built drawing puff sleeves on top part. These sleeves have a very wide head and tightly hug the arm from the elbow to the bottom of the sleeves. The shape of these sleeves popular in models adjacent and tight silhouettes.
The drawing of the sleeve take the base narrow sleeves, well-tested pairing with the armhole, cut the drawing on the middle line and throw both halves on the line of the crown at equal distances from the middle line (Fig. 36). The height of the crown increases by 1/2 of the increase in the width of the sleeve under the armhole, i.e., diluted by 1/2 size. New line lifts the sleeve is carried out through points a, A1 and through a new point O
 

The minimum extension of the crown for these sleeves, which is practical, is 1 cm on each side of the center line of the sleeve, the maximum is when sections of the top part of the sleeve in the region of the points PZ and P6 are perpendicular to the line width of the sleeve under the armhole (Fig. 37). Greater expansion of the sleeve, this method is not recommended, as the sleeve will be difficult to vacate in armhole.
Short corocoran sleeve depicted in Fig. 37, is based on the same principle, changing only the sleeve length.
For long sleeves, it is desirable to extend the elbow slice (see Fig. 35) to ensure the freedom of movement of the hand.
Long and short sleeves puffed at the top, flared, build on the drawing fundamentals sleeve of appropriate length in three stages: 1st stage - construction of the foundations of the sleeve; 2nd stage - construction of the puffs; the 3rd stage - breeding sleeves down.
 

The first two stages described above. The 3rd stage is as follows. The drawing of the sleeve is cut along the middle line, not dorezaya to the highest point of the crown 0.2 mm (Fig. 38, 39). The halves of the sleeve are bred so that the elbow and front sections is located perpendicular to the new line width of the sleeve under the armhole. The point of intersection of the center line of the sleeve with a new line of measuring the width of the sleeve under the armhole (point C) will be the centre from which the compass with a radius of About1kg make the upper part of the crown sleeve, and from the highest point of the crown sleeve, the broken breeding (point O) of center radius draw HE line of the bottom of the sleeve, coupling the cut sections.
All sleeves of this design can be further extended on the crown and at the bottom of the sleeve the method of structural modeling (cut and diluted part of the pattern on the desired size of the Assembly or folds in the right places).

DOUBLE SEAM SLEEVES

Double seam of the sleeve may have a seam in the midline, i.e. the visible side, and the seam in the lower part. These joints help to convert flat patterns to three-dimensional (closed). Sleeve middle seam or a tuck is applied in cases when it is necessary to remove the landing sleeve on the crown.
Drawing double seam of a sleeve is used in the drawing of Raglan sleeves or kimono.
Double seam of the sleeve can also consist of upper and lower halves. These sleeves are most often used in suits and dresses-coat. They are more consistent with the location of the hands and easier to create a classic shape sleeves (a silhouette of the sleeves).
 

Drawing the sleeve with the middle seam is the easiest to construct on the basis of the drawing, one-piece sleeve by connecting it to the tangent point PZ (Fig. 40) with the armhole of the back. This method allows to determine the most just solution Darts at the sleeve head. To build take the pattern one-piece semi-fitted sleeve, place it on the pattern of the back, combining point PZ on the shoulder with the PP on the sleeve (finger sleeve with the armhole when setting). The upper part of the sleeve crown to the highest point of the crown outside of the openings.It will be cut, which lifts the sleeve is longer than the armhole (value of landings) from the elbow of the sleeve. Measure this value and put it to the right of the highest point of the crown. Thus find the value of planting the front of the sleeve. Then the measurement line width of the sleeves lay at 0.5 cm on each side from the middle line, get points 1 and 2 (Fig. 41). A point located on the midline at the level of the elbow, connects with points 1 and 2 and continue the line up to the points 3 and 4 located on the lineP3P6. Cut 3 to 4 more cut 1 - 2 0.5 cm, ie the total amount of the solution will be 1.5 cm and Then with the help of curly patterns points 3 and 4 connect with the points 5 and b located on the line lifts the shoulders.
 

On the basis of the drawing of the double seam of a sleeve of this design is easy to build one-piece sleeve with a tuck in the top part (Fig. 42). For this purpose a solution of the Darts is reduced by 0.7 cm on each side, i.e. increase the allowance for the expansion of the sleeve. Tuck the end of the middle line, a little before reaching the line PZP6.

ONE-PIECE SLEEVE, FLARED
 

To obtain the patterns of single-joint sleeves, and extended down, take the pattern sleeves with tuck on the crown (Fig. 43, b). Then cut the pattern on the middle line and throw it to the desired width, simultaneously close the tuck in the crown sleeve. Hem sleeves from the elbow and front sections add 1 - 2 cm for sleeve extension. Crossing lines from breeding with lockable tuck should occur a little above the line P3P6, i.e. upstream of the site, which may not be changed in width. Minimal extension sleeve is produced by wish (Fig. 43, a). Tuck in the top part of the sleeve partially remains in the template, but when setting in the product it is replaced by landing on the crown. Such sleeves are most efficient products for sports style. The maximum expansion of the sleeve (Fig. 43) you get when you tuck in the top part of the sleeve close completely, and even removed a part of the planned landing, placing one half sleeve on the other. The highest point of the crown About1 and About2 must defend from each other at a distance of not more than 2 cm Polyline P3C - П6Ц should not be located below the line width of the sleeves (point C) . Along the hem of the sleeve extend 2 to 4 cm on each side.
Any breeding top of the sleeve is slightly deformed, so the line of the crown should be slightly to trim, and then draw the bottom of the sleeves. The cuff is decorated with a compass the radius from the center point C, connect the cut part of the pattern.
The extension sleeve on the bottom provides visual reduction of the height of the crown: the larger the extension, the shorter becomes the top part. After installation, the sleeve will take the form of a "bell". For more uniform expansion of the sleeve at the bottom of the breeding produced is also applied to lines to the top of the crown.

FUNCTIONAL SLEEVE

Functional sleeve from the usual differ in their purpose, not design features, they provide dynamics and usability in accordance with their purpose. However, the shape of the functional parts and the change largely depend on the direction of fashion. Functional products are products semi-fitted silhouette with minimal fit in the waist, straight dress-shirt or products by filling in the top part, cut at the waist line. Sleeve such products are wider than normal and head below, they require different openings.Building functional products and sleeves starts with the drawing fundamentals of the product of the corresponding cut, which make the necessary additions and changes.
Functional sleeve have the form correctly utchanah sleeveless only when the position of the hand on the hip and slightly bent elbow. When lowered the arm straight, there are creases at the bottom of the crown, towards the center, which are formed as a consequence of the shortened top part.
Lowering the height of the top part and the expansion sleeve have a close relationship. Lowering the height of the crown is always 1/2 of the seam allowance to the width of the sleeves. Limit the height of the crown in the sleeves of this form shall be the amount equal to the width of the openings which is less than the height of the crown should not be, otherwise the sleeve moves to another constructive group. Thus, allowance for the width of the sleeves is equal to the Wok - PDS, where Vok is the height of the top part in the drawing; PDS - the width of the armhole on the drawing basics.
The value of the lower crown is equal to (Vok - PDS)/2.
 

For the construction of the pattern of functional sleeves on a clean sheet of paper transfer the main pattern semi-fitted sleeves. Extend the sleeve line Р1Р2 (Fig. 44, a), get new points P1' and P2'. Then reduce the height of the crown, marking the new position of the highest point of the crown (the point O1). OO1 = 1Р1 0,5 R = 0,5 P2P'2.
Points P3 and P6 connected to points P1' and P2'. From the middle of the received segments in the direction of the sleeves restore the perpendiculars to the intersection with a line width of the sleeves. From the elbow part of the sleeve crown on the perpendicular lay 1/3 of its length from the front of the crown is 1/2 the length of the perpendicular.
New line lifts the sleeve is carried out through the point P1', a point on the perpendicular bisector to the segment Р1'P3, point P3, O1, L6, a point on the perpendicular bisector to the segment П2'P6 and the point P2'.
When you build a functional sleeveless a line ПЗП6 remains constant regardless of the lower crown. At the maximum expansion of the sleeve points P3 and P6 (Fig. 44, 6) are moved along the line ПЗП6 in the direction of extension, 1/2 or 1/3 size of the reduction of the height of the top part. ПЗП4 = П6П5 = 1/2 OO1.
Modernization of the functional openings for sleeves start with lengthening the shoulder of the cut, deepening the armholes and the extension of the product-level measure of the width under armhole. Values for adjusting these areas are proportional to the change sleeve and are located in the following dependency.
1. Lengthening of the shoulder cut and the extension arm is equal to 1/4 extension sleeve on one side, i.e., 1/4 Р1'P1 (see Fig. 44) (allowance for half the width of the sleeve is equal to 3 cm, so the elongation of the shoulder cut shelves and back will be equal to 0.75 cm).
2. Deepening the armhole will be 3/4 Р1'P1 (armhole deepen the 2.25 cm).
3. The extension of the armhole shelves and back at the level of the points PZ and P4 to be equal to the value of the extension sleeve at the level of the same points and is 1/4 OO1.
To build the new openings taking patterns sleeves, shelves and back of the corresponding cut (straight, semi-fitted or tight) and make the all the changes described above. Watch to the deepening of the openings, not to make narrower the product under the armhole. For this point, obtained after expansion shelves and back into the initial construction lines, drop a perpendicular, and lay the value of deepening the armhole. Through the points obtained draw lines of the side sections parallel to the original. Check the cuts on the pair, focusing on the waist line.
 

The lower part of the armhole on the sleeve issue, combining the same point PZ, and P6 for the sleeve and armhole (Fig. 45). The upper part of the armhole from points PZ and P6 connect a smooth curve with a new point on the shoulder cut using a notched pattern.
Functional products, in addition to upgrading the armhole shelves, you must make it elongation above the point P6 (Fig. 46, a).
Armhole lengthen due to partial reduction of the solution of the upper tuck. The value of the solution tucks equal to 1.5 - 2 cm For this value to expand the top part of the sleeve method of breeding, if it was removed all landing.
Remaining on the shelf solution tuck can be transferred to any slice. When you move the Darts in the side cut length from centre of the chest is reduced by 1.5 - 2.5 cm In Fig. 46 b shows a pattern shelves after the redesign, the openings and move the top tucks into the side cut.
Extend the armhole to improve the dynamics of the hand and visual rectification of the line of openings relative to the line of the bust.
This design method will be applied in constructing the sleeve Raglan sleeves and cap sleeves.