Chapter 2. TOP TUCK IN BODIES OF VARIOUS SHAPES WITH SET-IN SLEEVES 

Darts are an important component of women clothes. With the help of Darts from a flat fabric to create a three-dimensional shape of the product
The design of the main drawing, the upper tuck is aimed from the shoulder cut to the highest point of the chest. This tuck is the main.
Top Darts on the shelf can be replaced with a variety of design elements: pleats, ruching, pintucks, etc.
To use the method of constructive simulation products women's clothing on the basis of the basic drawing, you must know the ways of transfer of the top Darts in any direction on the shelf in accordance with the model.
To transfer the Darts on the pattern of the shelf outline the new direction of the tuck line, which must be connected to the end of the upper (main) tuck. Top tuck close, the pattern is cut along the planned line and open a tuck in a new place.
Tuck in the bodice close-fitting lines can be placed in any direction and from any cut, but it must pass through the highest point of the chest. The depth of one of the Darts can be distributed across multiple Darts.
Depth new Darts can be more or less than the depth of the core tuck depending on its location, the total depth of the recesses remains constant regardless of the number of recesses and their location.
The location of the tuck depends on the model. The line of Darts on the shelf should match the lines of the Darts on the skirt without disturbing the composition of the product as a whole.
Standard constructive solution is a shelf with two Darts from the shoulder cut and waist line. The popularity of the bodice with this shelf is due to the fact that he perfectly fits the shape, and tuck in this location do not look Intrusive. A line mid-tuck feature in the direction of common thread, so when skiving such tuck warp. Waist line this bodice is sustainable and weft thread at its connection with the skirt (deleted distortions, bending and stretching).
The design of the shelves tuck from the shoulder cut into a tuck at the waist, the most acceptable products for fat women with large breast glands.

THE BODICE IS ADJACENT SILHOUETTE 

Dress cutting through the waist, usually established on the basis of the drawing, adjacent silhouette dress, which is the standard shelf with one or two Darts at the waist and one shoulder cut. The bodices of these dresses fit a shape, and look the same, although tuck, giving the bodice a characteristic shape, can occupy a variety of positions.
In fabrics, striped or plaid top tuck preferably positioned under the armhole (Fig. 63). In this case it will minimally distort the fabric as it will be hidden under the armhole. A tuck at the waist line can be replaced with soft pleats or ruffles - both will not affect the pattern tissue on the bottom of the bodice.
 

Very elegant look of fabrics in stripes with one deep tuck in waist (tuck moved to the waist line, Fig. 64).
The bodice with cap sleeves plaid top tuck from the shoulder cut is also transferred to the waistline, forming a deep tuck. The displacement direction of the cage on the sleeve will blend in with the oblique direction of the cage on the waist line (Fig. 65).
 

In Fig. 66 shows the upper tuck, moved from the shoulder cut into the cut of the neck, the solution is distributed it in creases with the distance between them 2 - 3 cm So the tuck can be used as an element of decoration of the bodice. It can serve as pockets, which leaves the bow; split into multiple pintucks stochnyh or laid, it forms a fan at the top.
The material hugs the figure and draped in that case, if the line mid-front positioned at an angle 45' to the warp threads (Fig. 67, a). The perfect location to tuck this bodice is the one that it starts low in the side and the middle of it coincides with the direction of the warp threads. This tuck is best rests and least noticeable.
Tuck the top side of the slice can serve as a mantel if it is divided into two beautifully situated (Fig. 67, b). Such Darts to visually lift the chest, creating a rounded bust line high.
The cut of the bodice on the bias thread applies even in cases when the model will be draped in the region of the neck.
In Fig. 68 shows the drape in the middle of the front by moving the top of the tucks and Darts at the waist line on a line mid-front. The bodice waist is tight.

THE BODICE IS SOFT

Modern fashion offers dresses sophisticated silhouettes of various three-dimensional shapes. In some cases, the size of the upper tuck on the shelf is insufficient to create the shape of a large filling. Therefore, when modelling such products need additional allowances to the bodice. The magnitude of these allowances is set specifically in each case depending on the silhouette and shape of the product.
Dresses or blouses with ruching soft plastic forms require some refinement of the design of the bodice. It is necessary to perform an additional, slightly laborious process of constructive simulation that meets the aesthetic requirements to create a model new silhouette form.
Tuck, distributed in an Assembly using the usual graphical method, form a three-dimensional shape of the bodice only at the top that does not match the silhouette of the bodice is smooth. Therefore, the authors propose another constructive solution of the transfer of the top Darts for the bodice create soft forms in the chest area for some of its fit in the lateral part. The degree of fit of the bodice at the side part or below the level of the chest is determined in each specific case.
The essence of this technique is that the prior distribution solution top tuck on the build it is necessary to reduce the solution and a little to straighten the line of the armhole.
Why not be satisfied with the existing solution top Darts, giving the product a mild form? Tuck the top only comes to the center of the chest, and tuck, decorated the Assembly, rise above, will create an unnecessary bulge and will look like a design defect. In the same way will behave in the shelf, if it is to breed for the formation of assemblies, reducing solution tuck and not straight lines the arm openings. Thus only will the extra volume, which will visually widen the figure. This design would not meet aesthetic requirements and rules create the desired silhouette of the form.
 

To build products with ruching or pintucks from the shoulder sections (Fig. 69, mod. 1) in the drawing, the fundamentals surrounding the bodice save solution top tuck in 1/3 or 1/2 full of mortar, as shown in Fig. 69, and. Then transfer the resulting pattern shelves on a blank sheet of paper, encircle it, a little straightening armhole by reducing the tuck (Fig. 69, b). Then put lines of pintucks or assemblies which cut and throw the pattern to the desired value. The shelf are diluted to the waist line with a partial reduction of darting at the waist line.If you line the bottom of the shelves located below the waist line, decreasing the Darts on the waist line, you need to be mindful not to obesity product at the hips. When breeding shelves you need by reducing the values of the tuck to increase the width of the shelf another 1.5 - 2.5 cm.
The shelf is diluted so that the resulting pattern and the drawing framework is aligned at points on the line of mid front and side cut at the level of the depth of the armhole. -Cutting line the depth of the openings will take a curved shape, like the line of the shoulder cut (Fig. 69) . The bulge of the shoulder of the cut is reduced by half its value. Shoulder seam Assembly or decorate with pintucks, reducing it to the original length (desired) . If assemblies will be many, you can reduce the shoulder cut with side openings; the length of the openings retain the original (as in the drawing base).
Similarly bred to the formation of assemblies and the backrest (Fig. 69, g, d, e).
To obtain the pattern of model 2 (see Fig. 69) on the main pattern (created on the basis of the base 1) put lines coquettes (see dashed lines in Fig. 69, a, g), attaching a pattern to a shape or mannequin.
For applying lines when closed the Darts on the back shelf and cut off the yoke, link yoke cut at the shoulder sections and encircle the new contour of the yoke (Fig. 69, g). Equity the thread on the yoke may be positioned in the line of primaqiune it to the back or through the middle of the back.
The front and the back is closed on the shaded lines (see Fig. 69, a, g) and transferred to a blank sheet of paper. On the shelf right line of openings by reducing the upper tuck. Put lines (see Fig. 69, b, d), which cut and throw the pattern to the desired size of the Assembly (see Fig. 69, V. e). It is necessary to remember that the front and the back need to be further strengthened through the depth of the openings not less than 1.5 - 2.5 cm, Line grinding shelves and back with coquettes draw smooth lines, reducing the bulge, obtained from the breeding patterns.
Darts at the waist line can also be replaced by assemblies. When cutting the lobe filament on the shelf passes through the middle of the front, on the back of the middle backrest.
 

The model, depicted in Fig. 70 is also created on the basis of the drawing basics 1. On the drawing put a line stitched belt (see the dash-dotted line in Fig. 69, a, g).
On the shelf close the solution Darts at the value of the shaded part (see Fig. 69, b), cut off the bottom of the details (belt); the resulting pattern is transferred to the paper (Fig. 70, a). Tuck from the shoulder cut shelves is transferred to the line protecive belt (Fig. 70, b). In the cutting zone (Fig. 70, in) through primaqiune it to the shelf, put the notch to the main fit shelves lock in front of the center of the chest, and in the middle of the front side and leave a small landing.Back at the shaded part are not closed, her cut only the lower part of the line a stitched belt and transferred the new pattern back on the blank paper. The product shoulder tuck grind, and in line protecive belt doing the Assembly.

THE VISIBLE UPPER BODICE WITHOUT DARTS 

Many modern products are designed without visible tucks. The presence of the reliefs provides the opportunity to combine a tuck top and tuck on the waist line.
Tuck translation is not only vertical relief, but also in all kinds of horizontal undercuts, coquette, inserts, etc.
If the construction of the soft bodice take drawing fundamentals with minimal allowances on the chest, the strapless bodice with Darts hidden in the reliefs, or other design solutions you can take a drawing basis with any allowances on the chest depending on the type of product and its purpose.
 

The model shown in Fig. 71, the front plastron is 8 - 10 cm below the highest point of the chest on the continuation of the tuck (Fig. 71, a). In the drawing, the line of Darts located at a distance of 1/3 the length of the shoulder slice from base of the neck. In the lateral part below the chest line introduced tuck solution, equal to 1.5 cm, this value reduces the length of the horizontal line AB (Fig. 71, b) from point b to point C and cut from patterns shelves the strip-starting from the point C to the bottom along the line of mid front.
On the front of the plastron (Fig. 71,) is a collar apash (see p. 143 - 146).
 

Blouse, shown in Fig. 72, has a slightly elongated shoulder seams and a deep armhole. Tuck on the waist line with a solution of 1.5 - 2 cm is placed in the seam primaqiune cutting the side pieces to the shelf. Front buckle on a stitched strap with a width of 4.5 cm Side sections may be straight or concave. Concave line of the side cut and tuck on the waist line in the seam primaqiune the side pieces to the shelf to create a semilying silhouette products. You need to know: if you enter tuck in the trough side of the cut shelves, it must be entered in the deflection side of the cut backs.
The pattern of this model can be obtained on the basis of patterns of functional products straight line (see "a Functional shirtdress") .
Top tuck ASV (Fig. 72, a) closed and transferred to the line operation. The shelf is cut along the line TL (Fig. 72, b). The middle of the bottom cutting part of the shelf (Fig. 72, b) is required in the layout pattern on the fabric placed on fold of fabric and coincide with the equity direction of the thread.
To construct the strap was in the pattern of the shelf to the left of the line of its middle at a distance equal to 1/2 of the width of the strap, put a line of primaqiune strap. Then build the bar, tselnokrajnie with podlinnoi and padbottom (Fig. 72, g).
This model can be solved differently: the front lower plastron can be lapped tongue pocket "kangaroo" and the upper tuck is transferred to the line ЦБ1 or CB (see the dashed lines in Fig. 72, a).