Chapter 2. PROCESSING DIRECT DUHOVNOI SKIRTS 

the STITCHING of the DARTS AND the connection of the SIDE SECTIONS 

In the front and back panels outlining the middle line.
Tuck smatyvay and grind the same as above. Thread a running stitch is removed, and the iron Darts towards the middle parts or rautureau. Detail in the region of the vertices of the Darts sativum using moistened protohellenic. Both the cloth metiaut, aligning slices, and grind the side sections. Thread a running stitch and remove the slices overcast and priorivet. After connection of the lateral sections of handle the bottom of the skirt. The cut of the skirt made of thick fabric or fabric with legkopolirujushchiesjacuts it is recommended to turn over with silk braid. 

PROCESSING UPPER EDGE OF THE SKIRT

Regardless of the model handling of the upper edge starting from the processing of the clasp hook or vrachevanie zipper. 
Stitch zipper on the skirt is the same as when working zipper on the shelf. 
After processing the side zipper to the upper cut of the skirt pritachivajut grosgrain braid. The braid is folded in half along the length, pull the iron on bend and zastrugivajut edge. Then it was applied to the front side skirts, equating jotted edge with the top cut of the skirt. Braid primetyvajut and pritachivajut on the car. Seam primaqiune priorivet.
Grosgrain ribbons are bent towards the inside of the skirt, edge straighten, spawn and zastrugivajut the car on front side of skirt seam width 0.5 cm thread in the fabric color of the skirt. 
The ends of the grosgrain ribbon bends inward on each end sew the hook and loop. On one sew the end of the first hook, then the loop, while the other - first the loop, then the hook. 
When processing of the upper edge of the skirt, cut in the oblique direction of the common thread or fabric, characterized by large deformation stretching, use the edge of a thin fabric. 

POCKETING

Skirts can be patch and Welt pockets. Patch pockets treated after podseleniya bottom. 
  Pockets rounded and straight shapes are made with lining. When cutting the two parts straight slices of a pattern in the direction of the grain lines.
Both parts of the pocket fold, right sides inside, and smatyvay grind, leaving an open area in order to empty your pocket on the front side. When-starts on the seams in the corners are cut and the pocket turn on the front side. Seam grinding straighten and detail spawn at the edges. Nesmachny plot file manually. Pocket priorivet the wetted protohellenic the first with the purl, and then on the front side. On the edge of the pocket on the front side lay line. At a distance of 1 cm from the top of the upper edge of the pocketlay the second line. After the adhesive treated pocket pinned to the skirt, primetyvajut at a distance of 1 cm from the first line, pritachivajut on the car and priorivet. The pocket can be sewn to cloth skirt by hand.
  Patch pocket with cap valve treated in the same way as the previous one. Processed pocket priorivet with front and back sides using a moistened protohellenic. Outlining the line of inflection, on the edge of the valve lay the line at a distance of 0.2- 0.3 cm, which continues along the crest line. Pocket again priorivet through moist protohellenic. 
Pocket pin for the skirt, primetyvajut and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge. Place of primitivne pocket is removed, and the skirt priorivet through moist protohellenic.
  Treatment Welt pockets with one facing runs to join the Darts and side sections of the skirt.
The cloth skirt on the wrong side of the chalk line outline of the cut pockets and lay the line straight manual stitches so that they were visible from the front side of the part. Obtachku cuts out on equity the thread direction width of 4 cm and a length of 17 cm (the length of the pocket 14 cm). The facing is folded along the middle underside and inside priorivet. On the front side the details of the skirt is applied obtachku bend up and namachivajut at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm above the line of the cut pocket. Obtachku pritachivajut at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold.
From the fabric of the skirt cut out the two parts of the burlap pocket with a width of 17 cm and a height of 15 - 16 see the Allowance for the facing of one part of the burlap to buckle inside out 2 cm and priorivet. This item burlap laid down on ACC the front parts of the skirt of 0.5 - 1 cm below the line of the cut of the pocket, namachivajut on the foot rails and pave the line at a distance of 0.5 cm from bend. A basting stitch is removed, the seam priorivet. Skirt detail cut between the lines on the reverse side. The ends of the pocket detail cut at an angle to the lines, reaching them by 0.1, see Obtachku andburlap pocket turn on the wrong side of the product. Frame pocket straighten, spawn and priorivet. The corners of the cut of the pockets pritachivajut to the ends of the piping and burlap pocket as the handling of oblachnykh loops. The ends of the lines secured with knots on the reverse side. Front side detail at the seams primaqiune piping and burlap lay line. The edges of obcutek smatyvay cross stitch priorivet from the front side through the wetted protohellenic.
Another part of the burlap primetyvajut from the inside to the top the facing and pritachivajut on the front side in seam primaqiune piping. Both details burlap pocket sew on three sides, rounding out a line incorners. Then handle the Darts and connect the side sections of the skirt with the side seams of the burlap and facing. Processed pocket priorivet. 
If the skirt has a Welt pocket with leaflets, in the presence on the front panel of the four Darts on the first grind two of them, first from the side sections, and then on the reverse side plan a line of the cut pocket.
The leaves cut out in the direction common thread fabric width of 6 cm, bend in half lengthwise face inside out and sew the sections with one lateral sides; a seam in the area pruned and the leaves turn on the front side. The seam grinding spread, leaf spawn and priorivet from the front side through moist protohellenic. At a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the leaves lay line.
The line of the cut pockets on the front side the cloth skirt primetyvajut the leaves bend down and lay a line. At a distance of 0.5 - 0.8 cm from the line of the cut pocket primetyvajut one detail of burlap wrong sides up. Through primitivne lay the line to primaqiune details burlap. On the reverse the parties on the intended line of cut through the cloth skirt and netscout corners short 0.8 - 1 cm before the end of the line.
Burlap and leaf turn on the wrong side, straighten the seam and priorivet. On the inside corners of the cut of the pocket pritachivajut to the details of the burlap. Tips lines secured with knots. 
On the underside of the lower sections of the leaves pritachivajut the second part of the burlap. Then smatyvay second tuck together with the side sections of the leaves and burlap. After smachivaniya grind and tuck the seam of the burlap pocket. Tuck in iron side of the middle of the cloth skirts. The opposite direction leaves attached with hidden stitching. Processed pocket priorivet both sides of the skirt.
  Welt pocket with flap is treated after grinding tucks on the front panel of the skirt. 
Valve grind lining. Seam grinding undercut at the corners; the valve turn, smoothing the corners. The edges of the valve spawn from lining, releasing the edge with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 see the Valve priorivetfirst, on the reverse, and then on the front side. On the front side valve lay the finishing line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
If the model on the valve should be altechna loop, it treated to grinding of the valve. The location of the pocket cloth skirt outline as well as other Welt pockets. Valve primetyvajut along the line of the cut pockets on the front side of the cloth skirts. The lining facing up. Valve pritachivajut on the distance of 0,5 - 0.8 cm from the line of the cut pocket.
One detail of the burlap pocket bends 2 cm wrong side in and priorivet. This item burlap primetyvajut fold down from the front side of the cloth skirt on 0.5 - 0.8 cm below the line of the cut pocket. Burlap pritachivajut on machine, iron the seam to the side of the cut pocket.
On the reverse side between the stitches penetrate the cloth of the skirt as well as was already provided pre-tilting sections of seams primaqiune valve and parts burlap pocket. Detail of the burlap pocket and stitched seam the turn valve on the reverse side of the product and straighten. Seam primaqiune valveiron on cloth skirt up, and the detail of the burlap down, releasing Kant.
On the inside corners of the cut of the pocket pritachivajut to detail burlap. The seam primaqiune details of burlap on the front side lay line. The second part of the burlap primetyvajut to the seam primaqiune valve. On the front side 
of the cloth skirt on a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam primaqiune valve, lay the line for connection with the second piece of burlap. Both parts of the burlap grind on the three slices. Valve edges fixed on the reverse side by hand and priorivet through moist protohellenic. 
  Pockets in the seam do on the skirts of dense fabric with 4 - 6 stitches, extended downwards. When the shearing must be given the allowance of cloth for the burlap pocket on those the parts between which has a pocket. 
On the wrong side parts to piecing together sections outline the dimensions of the pocket. Burlap the pocket on the front part of the skirt folded at the seam line towards the inside. At a breakline on the reverse side primetyvajut edge width 1 - 1.5 cm of a thin fabric. Cut parts of the skirt and sew to smatyvay of the cut pocket.
Seam grinding iron with burlap pocket to the middle of the front cloth skirts. Both parts of the burlap pocket smatyvay and sew from the wrong side. On the front side slits pocket priorivet through moist protohellenic. 
Tilting the burlap in the side parts of the skirt, the front parts are laid finishing line at a distance of 2 cm from the slits. Length finishing lines corresponds to the length of the cut pocket. Burlap folded in side of the front part and the ends of the cut fixed line. 
For the manufacture of pocket in the finishing seam front cloth skirt side detail cut out two parts: the lower from the upper edge part to the bottom of the cut piece burlap pocket, top - of the line of the cut of the pocket to the bottom of the slice skirt. 
The facing for processing the upper edge of the pocket is both a piece of burlap. 
The upper sidewall is folded with the right sides facing inward smatyvay and grind. The seam iron to side piping. Obtachku bent on the wrong side of the product, spawn on the edge of the pocket and priorivet. At a distance of 1 cm from the edge of paving to the finishing line.
Then smatyvay slices of the front part and upper side parts, together with the facing of the pocket, lay the line and iron the seam toward the middle of the cloth. Lower side with Hessian smatyvay with the front part, sew and iron the seam in the same direction. 
The same method can be used for the pockets and finishing seams on other types of clothing.