GENERAL INFORMATION 

Cap is considered to be any dress, potrebnoe waist.
Shift dresses found wide application in everyday life, they are suitable for women of all ages and shapes of various fittings, especially women with figures of large dimensions. Women's lightweight clothing made of different fabrics and materials (wool, silk and cotton) in various assortments (dresses, coat-dresses, gowns, tunics, shirts) and different purposes (home wear, beach, casual, evening, etc.).
However, given the characteristics of the female figure, it should be noted that the construction of shift dresses is more difficult, as requirements for clothing include a combination of two main factors - good fit and elegant silhouette. Difficulties increase, if it is necessary to create the desired silhouette without the additional vertical articulation. Cutting at the waist dress to perform better as its shape is created by two separate finished pieces (bodice and skirt), which is easy to adjust to each other.
Shift dress silhouettes are divided into straight, poluprilegayuschy and surrounding. These silhouettes of clothing can be used simultaneously and have the same design decisions and the cuts used in the products of a particular season. Drawing cap products can be obtained using the drawings basis of a bodice and skirt (1), connecting them at the waist. You can also build their own drawing cap products using calculations and a recommendation for the creation of drawings of products, not cutting at the waist line based on the designs straight cut (base 2).For this purpose, given the characteristics of the shape, you need to determine what fullness it belongs, to choose the appropriate silhouette and its design decisions, determine the degree of fit of the product, the location of the construction lines if they are provided by the model.
Straight silhouette is most common in production clothing (gowns for various professions), and dresses-shirts for women, when fashion rectangular silhouette of the garment.
The advantage of the dress-shirt is that it has a very simple constructive solution, economical in consumption of fabric and just sewing. Wearing such a dress is enough to handle only shoulder Darts on the back, top tuck on a shelf, two side seam and the dress is ready. Dress, cut from two pieces (front and back), may be sleeveless and collarless. Consumer appeal of such dresses depends on the fabric.
Dress straight cut rectangular silhouette is simple and convenient to operate.
The complexity of the constructive solutions t-shirt dress is that in the presence of straight lines of the sections is necessary to ensure, starting from the line width of the chest, the longer side of the slice compared with the lines in the middle of the front and back. Sheath-shirt it is advisable to wear without a belt, but it still look elegant, you need a snug fit of the dress at the hips.
If the model provides a belt, then when you design the dress you need to lengthen the side seams. This is achieved by a slight process in the region of the side sections and the introduction of seams in the middle of the front and back.
In the presence of seams on the back and front side sections can be lengthened breeding (cut and diluted) pattern in the waist by 1 cm, starting from the side sections, thus negating to the middle of the back and shelves. Created this method dress-shirt is better to wear a belt to prevent sagging of the side seams.
Straight shirt dress looks more elegant on the figures of the 1st and 2nd fullness (figure with narrow hips). In the figures of the 3rd and 4th of widths. rectangle dresses will turn into a trapezoid with an extension down due to the large difference in the measurements of chest and hips (bust 96 cm, hip 112 cm).
Shift dresses are mostly solved in a direct and poluprilegayuschy silhouettes, but do not exclude the possibility of solving one-piece dresses with a tight fit in the waist. This introduces an additional partitioning of the dress vertically, which creates a desired shape and a snug fit (dress with six or eight wedges from the shoulder area or from the line of openings) .
The adjacent one-piece dresses usually are intended for young slim women with small waists. Vertical lines visually make the waist thinner; the more they are close to each other at the waist, the slimmer figure, and this can be achieved only in dresses small sizes. Some models can be appropriate for fuller women, if they are designed in style and design.
Cap products, advanced down, most appropriate for women 3rd and 4th Polnochnyj groups, as such products are visually hide a large difference between the measurements of the girths of the chest and hips.
Semilying silhouette is achieved with a smaller number of lines (two or four seam), or cut on the bias thread. Semilying silhouette the most resistant to changes in fashion. Products semi-fitted silhouette, depending on the season change three-dimensional shape, structural elements or finishes, as required by fashion. Semilying silhouette is used in goods for any purpose, and Polnochnyj different age groups.
Poluprilegayuschy dress cut on the bias thread, good fitting shape, very impressive and requires no extra lines and decorations. Cut on the bias thread the most spectacular figures of the 1st and 2nd fittings. The disadvantage of a cut is a great consumption of tissue.
Clothing piece is very popular. The authors paid attention to the development of some design features and techniques in the development of this silhouette form.
This Chapter provides the necessary changes in the drawing framework 2 to obtain the patterns of the following products straight line in figure 48 the size of the 1st and 4th fullness (164 - 96 - 100 and 164 - 96 - 112):
t-shirt dress (from drawing basics 2);
functional t-shirt dress;
products with an extended shoulder cut;
one of the types of products casual Russian folk clothes.

T-SHIRT DRESS 

The pattern of the dress-shirt you can get, using the drawing basics products straight line (base 2) with no change.
A necessary rule for the construction of the pattern is the account of the individuality of the figure and the exact construction of the middle line of the back and side sections according to the recommendations for building drawing on polnocny groups. In dress shirt with the straight lines of the side sections below the breast line there are excess tissue that is not decorated with the figure of a woman, so it is recommended to enter the small tuck solution (2 - 2.5 cm) in the side sections of the shelves and back into the area from the waist to the armhole. This value will not affect the silhouette, and will give a more elegant shape straight silhouette.
In the middle of the front and back seams are allowed. Their introduction will not distort the appearance of the product, and even improve the quality of the design, especially if you need to extend the side sections of the shelves and back in the waist area.
Elongation of the side sections of the waist caused by the fact that in a dress-shirt, a drawing based on the drawing, straight-leg silhouette is not taken into account the elongation of the lateral slices that are required in the design of the waist belt or drawstring. Girdle, knotted at the waist, tightens the side seams and crooked hems. The tighter the belt is tied, the more revealed the imperfection of this design, especially in the figures with wide hips.
Introduced vertical seams will help more just to cope with the imperfection of the design. For this cause the horizontal line from the side cuts of the shelves and backs to put seams, cut patterns, and diluted to the desired value (0,7 - 1 cm). The wider the hips, the greater the amount of deflection of the side cuts (Fig. 47).
 

Live dress shirt tuck for registration of convexity of the breast can be solved by any method given in section III.
Sleeve dress this design can be varied in form and cover.

FUNCTIONAL T-SHIRT DRESS 

To build a functional shirtdress in drawing basics dresses straight silhouette changes associated with changing the sleeve. Lower the top part of the sleeves, lengthen the shoulder seams by 1/2 the magnitude of the lowering of the crown, extend the armhole backrest and shelves on the parts of the points PZ and P6 on the value of the extension sleeve at the level of the same points (Fig. 48).
Armhole 1/2 broaden and deepen the 3/4 cut, added to one side of the sleeve through its width.
The lower part of the armhole from points PP and Pb make the sleeve, combining the same point on the shoulder and sleeve. If the cut of the sleeves at the same outside side of the cut, the pattern sleeve in the region of the point PZ to lay a small crease (0.7 cm). The upper part of the armhole draw smooth curve in figure templates.
New lines of the side sections, starting from the openings, is carried out parallel to the old side of cut or the waist line extension under the armhole negated.
Armhole shelves above the point Pb open by 2 cm by reducing solution tuck. From the point Pb to hold the line of openings, a smooth curve connecting the point P6 with the new shoulder point.
Thus, the product in all respects is a little extended due to allowances for specified sections and straightening of the line of openings with partial elongation.

DRESS WITH EXTENDED SHOULDER SECTIONS 

Products with long shoulder sections are characterized by a volume form of the shoulder girdle. This effect is obtained by the following transformations of the basic drawing:
lengthening of the shoulder cuts on 7 - 10 cm;
the extension of the backrest from the point on the PP 5 - 7 cm;
the extension of the shelf from point P6 to 2.5 - 3.5 cm;
deepening the armscye (the seam allowance to measure CDF.z = 8 - 10 cm);
straightening and lengthening of the lines of the armhole shelves and back;
application in product design sleeveless shirt casual.
These products are made, as a rule, live silhouette or silhouette a-line (visually narrowed down).
Intentional saujanya hem measures do not. The increase in the volume of products you can get through creases, gathers, and other design techniques. Pleats, assemblies, tucks can begin from the neck of the back and shelves, off the shoulder cuts or flirts with horizontal partitioning of the upper part of the piece.
The basis for the drawing of such products is the main drawing dresses straight silhouette with minimal allowances received pursuant to the above calculations.
 

The following are additional calculations and recommendations necessary to build a drawing with extended shoulder sections (Fig. 49, a).
1. Close 1/2 of the solution tucks from the shoulder cut of the back and open it along the line of openings.
2. Lengthen the armhole shelves above the point P6 is 2 cm by reducing solution top tuck.
3. Lengthen the shoulder seams shelves and back 7 inches on the horizontals drawn through the ends of the shoulder sections (points P1 and P).
4. Extend the back at the level of the point P3 6.5 cm (point PZ').
5. Expand a shelf at the level of the point P6 4 cm (point P6') .
6. Deepen armhole 4 cm or determine it by calculation: the depth of the openings is equal to the CDF.z+8 cm (where the CDF.h - the height of the openings in the rear).
7. Note the position of the lateral cut back to the middle line of the width of the armhole (point G).
8. Through the obtained point d down spend a vertical line.
9. Note the position of the side cut shelves on the line width of the armhole (point G1; cut ГГ1 equal to 1/3 of half the width of the openings).
10. Determine the position of the side sections at the bottom of the product: shelf expanding 3 cm (НН1 = 3 cm) and the back (1 cm НН2 = 1 cm).
11. Hold the side section of the backrest through the points G and N2 and a lateral cut shelves through the points G1 and H1.
12. Conduct smooth line of the armhole of the backrest through the points P, P3' and G.
13. Conduct smooth line of the armhole shelves through the points P1, P6' and G1.
Reducing the width of the openings (cut ГГ1) kompensiruet sleeve shirt casual, i.e. the product in the chest area not obusitse, and will elegant look.
Products with long shoulder sections of the shoulder dart on the back is partially transferred to the line of openings is to ensure the freedom of movement and to reduce the convexity of the back; the rest of the tuck is landing at the shoulder cut on the site, is 12 cm starting from the neck back.
Top tuck on the shelf, making out the bulge on the chest, in articles 44 and 46 of a size to close completely, distributing its parts: neckline, shoulder cut, the fit at the shoulder and cut the seam allowance to the middle of the front.
In articles 48 a solution of the upper tuck partially closed and transferred to armhole partially used for the expansion of the product on the front (if equipped), and the rest of the Darts (50%) are placed in any slice.
Transfer the top of the tuck from the shoulder cut into the cut armhole, see section III, Chapter 2.
Products with long shoulder sections of line openings may have a different configuration and a different width (section П3П6), and may simply be a "gap" as in the casual products of the Russian folk clothing.
From the width of the openings (cut PS P6') depends on the height of the top part of the sleeve longer period PS P6', the more the height of the top part of the sleeve. To shape armhole "gap" the top part of the sleeve missing.
The side sections are in direct proportion to the visual perception of a silhouette. In the products with the apparent souzeni the bottom side cut of the back is vertical, and the side cut of the shelf is deflected at the bottom to 1.5 cm at the back side.
Products straight or slightly extended silhouette, side cut backless side cut shelves are spaced from the vertical distances in the ratio 1 : 2.
Width sleeve shirt casual depends on the depth of the armhole and the height of the crown from its width, i.e. the distance between the points PP' and P6' in Fig. 49. Construction drawing sleeve are in that order.
1. Spend a horizontal line (Fig. 49, b), where lay the width of the sleeve at the line of armhole depth (segment PP1). PP1 = РО1 + О1Р1 where РО1 = ПП3'G is the length of the armhole of the backrest (Fig. 50, a and b); О1Р1 = П1П6'G1 is the length of the armhole shelves.
2. Through the points P, O1, and P1 (see Fig. 49, b) hold down the vertical line.
3. From point O1 up lay 1/5 of the width of the sleeves (cut PP1) or a segment equal to the distance P SN'6 of the drawing the openings to get the point About the highest point of the crown.
4. Points R, P1 and connect straight lines. From the midpoints of OP1 and RO raise perpendiculars and conduct them to the intersection with a line width of the sleeves.
5. On the perpendiculars lay 1/3 of obtained segments, and the elbow of the sleeves - up from the line of RO (point P2), and from the front of the sleeve and down from the line OP1 (point Rd).
6. Conduct smooth line of the top part of the sleeve, connecting the dots of R, R2, O, R1 and RZ.
7. Sleeve length is equal to HE = Dr - 7 Dr - sleeve length, cm; 7 - allowance for elongation of the shoulder cut, see

DRESSES CASUAL RUSSIAN FOLK CLOTHES
 

The dress shown in Fig. 50, is one kind of the Russian folk clothing. Sleeve and gusset dress rectangular shape armhole - in the form of a slot.
Pattern dresses can be obtained using the drawing basics dresses straight silhouette, built with minimal allowances on the chest and hips.
Below are calculations and recommendations required for obtaining the pattern of the dress.
1. Close 1/2 of the solution tucks from the shoulder cut of the back and open it up on the line of the armhole.
2. Lengthen the armhole shelves, 2 cm above the point P6 by reducing the solution of the upper tuck.
3. Lengthen the shoulder seams shelves and back into 7 cm contour lines drawn through the ends of the shoulder sections (points P1 and P).
4. Through the centers of circles with radii R1 and R2 hold down vertical line, it will side cut backless (dashed line).
5. Deepen armhole 4 cm or calculation: the depth of the openings is equal to the CDF.z + 8 cm (where the CDF.h - the height of the openings in the rear).
6. The point of intersection of the side cut backless a line the depth of the openings designated by the letter G.
7. From the point G lay down a period equal to the length of one side of the gusset (1st option - 5 cm, 2 - 10 cm - points G1 and G2).
8. The line of the armhole shelves hold through the points P1, P6', G, of the back - through the points P, PZ', 
9. Expand a shelf on the bottom: НН1 = 1,5 - 2 see
10. The side cut of the shelves is carried out through the points G1 and H1 (1st option) or through points G2, H1 (2nd version); side cut backless conducted through the points G1 and N (1st option) or G2 and N (2-nd variant).
Sleeve shirt casual for products with extended shoulder sections and the armhole in the form of a slot are characterized by a low height of the crown or by the absence of its increased width along its entire length, the minimum allowances for planting on crown or no landing.
These sleeves are always a large three-dimensional form, they have creases in the bottom of the openings and is designed for the dynamics of the arm in a horizontal position; in this form, the silhouette of the products takes the form of the letter T.
In modern clothes cuffs make rubber band, or otvorachivayutsya banded cuffs, pull-tabs and other details.
The principles of construction drawings of the sleeve and sleeve shirt casual similar. Line of lifts the sleeve to the armhole in the form of a slit is held horizontal and is equal to the sum of the lengths of PG and П1Г (see Fig. 50, a and b).
RO = PG is the length of the armhole of the backrest;
OP1 = П1Г is the length of the armhole shelves;
The 1st version of the Gore - ГГ1 = 5 cm (see Fig. 50, a and b);
The 2nd option is the Gore - ГГ2 = 10 cm( see Fig. 50, a and g);
HE = Dr - 7, where 7 is the allowance for the elongation of the shoulder cut, see
The bottom of the sleeve you can draw a stitched cuff width 4 cm (Fig. 50, d). The length of the cuff is equal to 1/2 of the total width of the sleeves. The remaining half of the width of the sleeves taking in folds (see hatched areas in Fig. 50,b). The line of the cut sleeve for a fastener located at a distance of 1/4 width of the sleeves from the elbow, its length 7 - 8 cm section draw-bar, or in a seam. The width of the cuff may be different.
In the study of the design of building models of large three-dimensional forms recommended by the modern fashion, in search of optimal solutions have been used many variants of the method of structural modeling on the basis of drawing foundations 1 and 2. In the literature the construction of drawing a large volume of forms was not reflected.
The designers of the school N. Lamanova has made the creation of such forms by the method of fashion draping fabric on the mannequin. This method requires much experience and professional skill. Women recipients of the book are not always able to use the method of tattoos. Thus, the authors task was to help readers to build a design drawing of these forms by the method of constructive modeling.
In the experimental searches of the principle of drawing products of these forms has been possible constructive simulation on the basis of the product drawing cut of Russian folk shirt.
 

Based on the developed construction drawings and silhouette forms, the authors determined that the silhouette form as derived from Russian folk women's clothing (Fig. 51).
In the South great complex of clothes there are shirts and other designs, but this form is widely used because of its functional values provide the dynamics of the hand.
A very important structural element is a gusset cut on the bias thread: it has large elongation. The size of the gusset can be different and depend on the width of the sleeves. The wider the sleeve, the lower gusset. In a narrow sleeve it can begin from the waist line and reach to the elbow. In folk and in modern clothes gusset can be both a decorative element of tissue of a different color.
In the Russian women national clothes meet layering, amplifying its creative decisions based on its functionality, purpose, age groups and other things. This principle is widely developed by fashion designers, MODEL and applied the proposed drawings (see Fig. 50 and 51).
In Fig. 51 shows two types of Russian folk women's clothing blouson and shirt. The length of the blouson comes over the hips. Put on a skirt or little dress.
Processing of such products is not difficult: all the slices grind in straight lines; the neck, hem, and cuffs grind a strip of fabric cut on the bias thread, then in these places prodelyvat rubber band of appropriate length. At the bottom of the garment length of rubber tape to equal the full circumference of the hips; at the bottom of the sleeve to the circumference of the wrist with an allowance equal to 2 cm; on the neck - the length of the neck portions of SV and В1С1 reduced by 2 - 4 cm (in the measurement of the length of the neckline on the back and the shelf solution tuck does not take into account).
Having finished pattern of this product with simple lines and geometric forms (Fig. 51, a), it is difficult to form the product. The simplicity of this cut comes from the cut of Russian folk clothes. The method of gradual constructive simulation products specified form-fitting will allow you to create modern products of volume forms.
Building patterns of such products are made on the basis of drawing fundamentals of product straight line (base 2) with additions related to the construction drawing of Russian national women's shirts. When you build the patterns used were the patterns of the product of rectangular shape with the armhole in the form of a slot (see Fig. 50) and hoses, a few extended downwards (see Fig. 43, a).
The building patterns was carried out in two stages: 1st stage - construction drawing; 2nd stage - design based on drawing, built in the first phase, and building patterns.
Construction drawing in the first stage and the second pattern are produced in strict compliance with the parallel lines of the mid-back, mid sleeves and mid of the front. The line width at the waist should be strictly perpendicular to the lines specified above, and in the process of building should not be moved to avoid disturbance of the balance of the product.
Construction drawing related to the definition of the geometric shape of the sleeve and its position relative to the shelves and back, as well as defining the shape and length of the neck of the product.
Design of this product is aimed at creation using the simple drawing techniques of patterns, the shape of which reflects the features of the lines of folk clothes.
Building drawing female Russian folk shirts using patterns of a rectangular shape with the armhole in the form of a slot is carried out in such sequence.
1. Spend a vertical line and combine it with the pattern of the back through the middle of the back (Fig. 51, b).
2. On the back, hold the line widths of the product and the waistline and continue to the right.
3. The pattern sleeve is cut along the lines OO1, not dorezaya to the point About 2 mm.
4. Laid out patterns of the shelf and the sleeve so that the line width of the backrest and width of the front, and points P and P1 of the sleeve located on the same horizontal. The point PZ and P6 of the back and shelves should be located on the same horizontal with the points of the sleeves.
The interval between the points K and K1, located on the line width of the sleeves must be parallel to the line width
products.
5. Points H2 and H3 on the line of the bottom of the sleeve connects the straight lines.
6. Shoulder point P and P1 connected to the points N2 and N3.
7. Points P and P1 also connect with a straight line.
8. Through the point Of spend a vertical line to the intersection of the line PP1 (point O1').
9. On the back of the shelf and put a line of the neck. Distance it to the neckline at the back and the shelf bases choose at will, but it must pass through the shoulder point P and P1. Neck - a large neck. If you want to reduce the neck in this cut, you must enter the yoke or collar (see section III, Chapter 4). A feature of the construction of the yoke is determining its position on the shoulder and cut in the middle back.Line of the yoke must pass through the shoulder point in the drawing, the basis for products with vtachnoy sleeves (the dashed lines in the drawing of the back - SV, in the drawing, the shelf - В1С1).
The next stage is to design products based on the drawing, constructed at the 1st stage.
At this stage, determine the length of the product on the back (75 cm from the line of the neck); the allowance to the width of the backrest Assembly (30 cm); the length of the product on the shelf (56 cm from neck) - in a new drawing; the allowance to the width of the shelf Assembly (16 cm) - in a new drawing; the sleeve length with allowance for the overlap (56 cm + 19 cm); the allowance to the width of the sleeve Assembly (14 cm parallel to the line of the middle of the sleeves from top to bottom);the length of the line the lower part of the gusset that provides a show of hands to a horizontal position (60 cm from a point at the wrist when the hand is omitted in the figure and from the point N to the point H2 through points A and A1 in Fig. 51, V, g). The length of the bottom of the gussets may vary depending on the desired level of show of hands, position of the end gussets (beginning) of the length of the product. Length of the lower part of the gussets, the specific details backless or shelves is equal to 3/5 of the length of the gusset (3/5 x 60 = 36 cm) and the sleeve - 2/5 (2/5 x 60 = 24 cm).
  Building patterns of the backrest (see Fig. 51,). To the left along the sheet carried out of the vertical line. To the right of it lay the desired extension on the back (30 cm), and spend a vertical dashed line. Combine the middle of the back with a dashed line.
The rest of the Darts from the shoulder cut (see Fig. 50, a) close and open it in the lower part of the back.
Then lead round the curve of the back, pursuing a line width of chest, waist and neck. Lay the length of the product through the middle of the back; on the side cut length is reduced by 2.5 cm with respect to the length in back (measurement is carried out relative to the waist line).
From point P to the right, spend an arc radius equal to the length of the sleeve plus 1/2 seam allowance on the overlap of the sleeve (56+9,5=65.5 cm). From point N to the right hold the arc until the intersection with the previous radius equal to 3/5 the length of the lower part of the gussets (3/5 x 60 = 36 cm). The intersection of the arcs denoted by the letter A.
Point P is connected to the point A a straight line and the point a with point N a smooth curve.
Point N connect a smooth line with the mid line at the level of the bottom of the back.
  Build shelves. Similarly carry out the construction of the shelves. Tuck on a shelf cut from the shoulder down to translate, and distribute in the Assembly of the neck.
  Postroenie sleeve (Fig. 51, g) . Through the point Of spend a vertical line. From point O down the vertical lay cut О1'O1 measured in Fig. 51, b, and the sleeve length with allowance for the overlap ЗО1 = Druk + PD.p = 56 + 19 = 75 cm.
Through the points O1 and 3 left and right spend a horizontal line.
From points 3 and O1 to the right lay the width of the front halves of the sleeves and a 1/2 seam allowance to the width of the sleeves (7 cm) left - width elbow halves and also 1/2 of the seam allowance to the width of the sleeves (see Fig. 51, b and g).
ЗП1 = О1П1 (with a drawing of the 1st stage) +7 cm;
ЗП2 = О1П1' (with a drawing of the 1st stage) +7 cm;
О1Н2 = ОН2 (with a drawing of the 1st stage) +7 cm;
О1Н3 = ОН3 (with a drawing of the 1st stage) +7 cm
The resulting points P1, N2, P2, N3 connect straight lines. Points P1 and P2 can be found in another way.
From the points N2 and N3 (see Fig. 51, g) hold up the arc radius equal to the segment PN of the drawing of the back of the 2nd stage (see Fig. 51,).
Point O left and right hold the arc radius equal to OP with a drawing of the back of the 1st stage of the build and О1П1 with a drawing of the shelves (see Fig. 51, b) plus 1/2 seam allowance to the width of the sleeves, and put the points P1 and P2 (see Fig. 51, g). Through the points P1, P2 and carry out a smooth line of the top part of the sleeve.
From the points P1 and P2 hold the left and right arc radius equal to the length of the seam vrachevanie sleeve in the armhole backrest and shelves (see Fig. 51, V, g) П1А1 = PA.
Cut П2А2 equal interval in the drawing of the shelves from the point P1 to the end of the gusset.
To build the lower part of the gusset on the sleeve to the left from the point H2 and the right of the point N3 is carried out of the arc with the radius equal to 2/5 the length of the lower line of the gusset. Н2А1 = Н3А2 = 2/5 x 60 = 24 see
The points A1,A2 and H2,H3 connect a smooth line.
For the design of the bottom of the sleeve from point O1 lay down a segment equal to the segment OZ and put a point O2. Through the points of H2, O2 and N3 conduct smooth line of the bottom of the sleeves.