Chapter 3. CONSTRUCTIVE MODELING OF BACKRESTS AND SHELVES

BACKREST AND SHELVES, CUT AT THE WAIST LINE 

This Chapter describes the preparation of patterns and backs of shelves with vertical and horizontal lines. These lines are both decorative and constructive purposes.
Horizontal lines on shelves and backs are mostly Flirty, undercuts, the casting belt.
Yoke almost never go out of fashion. Their size and location depend on the direction of fashion, individual characteristics of the shape and properties of the fabric.
Under the yoke on the shelf is usually placed the remaining solution of the Darts, which can be in the form of gathers, pleats or vertical reliefs, combined with tuck.
In this Chapter, based on the pattern of the bodice adjacent silhouette shows a graphical way to transfer Darts. This method can be used for obtaining patterns shelves with a yoke, which yoke is transferred to the remaining part of the solution top tuck after cutting off the yoke.
However, this method cannot be applied unambiguously by only graphic transfer tuck and use the remaining solution to form assemblies under the yoke at the bodice creating a soft shape.
This design on the fitted bodice creates a certain softness only by the yoke and does not ensure the formation of soft shapes the bodice at the site of the highest point of the chest.
On p. 110 - 113 sets out the principle of increasing the volume of the product. The allowance to increase the amount of the product combined with the solution of the Darts. This technique can be used in the presence of a yoke, under which is placed a part of the solution tucks and allowances for the creation of three-dimensional shape of the bodice.
Below are options for constructive modeling of the backrest and shelves, a pattern which is obtained on the basis of the drawing basics 1.

In Fig. 73 shows the back at the yoke. Tuck coming from the shoulder cut, closed and moved in the cutting line of the yoke. Tuck on the waist line you can sew or to distribute in the build.

In Fig. 74 shows a back yoke with toggle shoulder. The line of the cut yoke to the shoulder cut can be located at different levels. Back at the cut lines extended to the formation of small assemblies, under the yoke (Fig. 74, a). Tuck at the waist can also be distributed in the Assembly. To the shoulder cut of the back yoke extended section of shelves forming the rocker shoulder, ie Flirty backless translated on the shelf (Fig. 74 b).

The back yoke may have vertical pleats (Fig. 75). In the presence of such folds and tucks at the waist combine with them. The width of the folds and the distance between them can be different.
Pattern shelves are shown in Fig. 76 given the extra thickness of the fabric into three vertical folds. Tuck top and tuck on the waist line combined with the last 4, fold. If necessary, the top tuck can be moved under the armhole, and a tuck at the waist - side cut, or redistribute it in Assembly. For the shelves it is possible to recommend back on the rocker yoke (see Fig. 74) or the backrest with vertical folds (Fig. 75).
Top tuck on the shelf can be distributed in the Assembly. Armhole on the shelf a little spraylat on the chest, a shelf just expand. The combination of such shelves with a back yoke with toggle shoulder follows the line of the shoulder cut shelf cut to size reversible yoke.
When building patterns of the shelf with detachable yoke, applied a graphical way to transfer the Darts on the bodice close-fitting lines. Line . yoke the upper part of the shelves with the closed tuck cut. The remaining part of the top Darts and Darts at the waist combine in a single vertical relief.

BACKREST AND SHELVES, NOT CUT AT THE WAIST LINE 

For a more robust learning method for constructive modelling of articles in this section shows the steps for design of shelves and backs, are not cut at the waist line, and adjacent products and semi-fitted silhouettes.
The following are examples of constructive modelling of articles adjacent silhouette. 
The product with the reliefs from the shoulder cut are classic. The relief from the shoulder cut visually lengthens the figure; it usually starts from the middle of the shoulder cut.

The model shown in Fig. 77, the fit achieved by reliefs, combined with Darts on the front and the back, spaced from the shoulder sections and waist line. In this case, the reliefs on the shelf passing through the highest point of the breast and on the back - through the protruding points of the blades are constructive and decorative elements of the product. The main lines of the silhouette shape (the shoulder line and armhole, chest, waist and hips) coincide with the shape and design of the main drawing.However, depending on the individual characteristics of the shape of the magnitude of solutions of Darts may not be permanent in the same way as the position of the reliefs. In each case, the solution of the tuck can vary, reliefs may slightly move.
To obtain the patterns of the product to the reliefs on paper transfer drawing basics backrest and shelves products adjacent silhouette. Scheduled beginning of the relief on the shoulder cut of the back at a distance equal to the distance from the neck to tuck on the shelf. On the back of the shoulder tuck was transferred to a relief. Call the remaining sections of the shoulder cut shelves and back. Check the line cuts the mate (shoulder seams, the neckline shelves and back). Then tuck the shoulder backless connect a smooth line with the tuck end located on the waist line. Continue this line to the bottom of the product.
Similarly, put lines of the relief on the shelf. For pereghibati shapes with a large bust in relief from the waist line to the hip line open tuck, the solution of which is equal to 1/2 of the solution Darts at the waist (1.5 - 2 cm). In this case, the remaining width of the scarf at the hips offset by the expansion of the product from the side cut shelves.
Before cutting the pattern along the lines of the reliefs, plan marks. Call reliefs in length; it should be remembered that the primary reference marks that are located on the waist line and the highest point of the chest, should not move.
Equity line the sides of the shelves and back are parallel to the lines of the middle of the front and back. A slight offset common thread in the side cut on the side allowed.

In Fig. 78 shows the pattern of the shelf with reliefs emerging from the cut edge of the armhole. Line of such relief are slightly rounded. In products in the slim figure line reliefs round out the more sharply in the products on full figure essential for smooth transitions and a loose fit along the lines of the bust and waist. If to bring such relief to the shoulder sections, you will visually increase the length of the shoulder (the figure, as it expands at the shoulders).
On a sheet of paper transfer the drawing basics backrest and shelves products adjacent silhouette, with on the same horizontal line of the waist with the closed lines of openings. Outline point on the shoulder, which will leave reliefs: they must be at the same level on the shelf and the back. Pursuing a line of elevation on the shelf from the armhole to the highest point of the chest. The first check mark is put at a distance of 4 cm from the beginning of relief, the second - at the highest point of the chest, and the third - on the waist line. Cause the direction of the grain lines of the fabric on the side of the shelf parallel to the line of mid front.Cut along the new lines of the relief of the shelf from the bottom to the highest point of the breast and on to the armhole. Top tuck from the shoulder cut close, tuck will open in a new terrain.
To build topography lines on the back solution Darts at the waist line of the back is divided into three parts, 1/3 of the solution was transferred to the middle seam of the back and build a new line in the middle of the back. At a distance of 9 - 11cm from the new line the middle of the back lay the remaining balance of the solution Darts at the waist line. From the middle of the tuck is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom of the product. Connect the smooth line is scheduled is a point on the cut of the armhole on the left side Darts on the waist line and continues down the perpendicular.
From the right side, Darts at the waist line in the direction of the openings to hold the line of the relief, which will be aligned with the left side elevation at a distance of 9 - 10 cm from the openings. Then call the line of the reliefs, beginning from the waist line up and down. The remaining length of the lateral part of the add-side openings, and clarify the line of openings. Cause the direction of the grain lines of the fabric on both sides of the back.
Products semi-fitted silhouette suited for many women as slim and full. The degree of fit of the product to the shape and size of the extension products at the bottom depend on the characteristics of the shape and direction of fashion.
Design products with reliefs extending from the line of the armhole to the hem on the front and on the back and forming the cutting side, is given in two versions.
  Option 1 - relief extends from the openings on the shelf, then through the projecting point of the breast and to the bottom line. Relief combined with a tuck top and tuck on the waist line. This design shelves most clearly reveals the chest (see Fig. 78).

  Option 2 - elevation passes from the armhole shelves and then goes vertically to the bottom line. The terrain is not aligned with the upper tuck and tuck on the waist line (Fig. 79). This design smoothly shapes the Breasts, and the product has a lower prichinnosti. This relief does not carry the full structural loads. The remaining solution top tuck can remove the tuck from the terrain to the highest point of the chest, replace it with the fit or positioning of the dart in the direction of the cut of the neck, if the product provides a large lapel collar that can hide it.
Most successfully, the location of the terrain, when it is separated from the highest point of the chest on the 7 8 see Smooth line elevation at the waist for the left side Darts on the waist line, or is separated from the middle of the front is 12 cm Then the line of the relief goes down, deviating from the vertical line of thighs by 1 cm If the product provided a more snug fit to the figure, in relief waist tuck placed a solution of 2 - 3 cm. This value lay to the left of the relief. Tuck located in this terrain does not provide a snug fit of the front, so its not the whole solution was transferred to relief.

VARIETIES OF STRAPLESS BODICE, BUILT ON THE BASIS OF DRAWING THE BASICS OF THE PRODUCT ADJACENT SILHOUETTE

In Fig. 80 the examples of using the drawing basics when you build a pattern of open sleeveless blouses, outdoor summer sundresses, intended primarily for recreation, as well as elegant evening dresses.
In the drawing the basics of jewelry making changes on the side of cut and medium cut backless.
The difference measurement between the base and the new drawing on the chest find the following:
СгIV + 4 = 41,2 + 4 = 45,2 cm;
(SG + PG) - (СгIV + 4) = (48 + 6,2) - 45,2 = 9 cm
where SG - poluobhvat chest-the third (size);
СгIV - poluobhvat chest fourth;
PG - allowance to the width of the product on the chest in the drawing (to the armhole, the back, the shelf).
9 cm decreases the width of the drawing on the chest of the fourth (СгIV): 2 cm from the middle cut of the back, 4 cm from the side cut of the back and 3 cm from the side of the cut shelves.
Using the found point spend flowing lines and the new lateral slices from the breast line to the hip line.
The upper section of the product can be varied, causing a variety of lines depending on the fabric pattern, fashion, individual characteristics of the shape and purpose of clothing.
To determine the position of the upper edge of the product in the drawing, find the depth of the cut according to the formula:
CDF.z +7 = 17,8 + 7 = 24.8 cm,
where the CDF.h - the height of the openings in the back. This value lay down from the neck through the mid back.
On the shelf point-the base of the neck down lay 15 cm and Then a smooth curved line of the upper edge of the shelf (see dashed line) connect with the horizontal upper edge of the back.
The depth of the neck on the shelf and its configuration can be very diverse.
The length of the straps is determined by measuring the distance between the upper edge of shelves and back. If the strap closes behind the neck, the length it is measured from the beginning of the neck on the shelf through the point of the base of the neck to neck point in back.
Blouses can be worn over skirts (Fig. 80, mod. 1) or tucked into a skirt or shorts.
If you cut off the top of the blouse at the waist line and to combine it with a skirt, you get the model sundress (Fig. 80, mod. 2,3).
The symbols of the lines of each pattern are shown in Fig. About 80 of the figure the corresponding model.