Chapter 3. CONSTRUCTION DRAWING BASICS DRESSES, CUT AT THE WAIST LINE, ADJACENT SILHOUETTE (BASE 1)

A PRELIMINARY CALCULATION OF THE PRODUCT DESIGN 

To perform any model of dresses need to have the drawing basics. Under the basis of involve drawing outlines major parts of the product.
Construction drawing basics starts with the determination of allowances for free customized fit to the basic parameters and individual parts of the structure (table. 6) . Before plotting the drawing basics you need to make preliminary calculations of the main sections of the design of the bodice and sleeves on individual measures. The calculations can be done using the values of dimensional signs, placed in a table. 2 and 3, if they are close to individual measures.
 

The purpose of the preliminary calculation is the determination of the width of individual sections of the design at the level of the chest line and the width of the sleeves.
The following is a preliminary analysis of the structure of women's dress, cut at the waist line, adjacent silhouette, IV height (164 cm), 48 size (96 cm), 1st (100 cm) and 4th (108 cm) widths..
The width of the shelves, see:
SHP=Sh + (Sh - SG) + PN.p;
SHP = 17,2+ (50,2 - 45,7) + 1 = 22,7 (1-I completeness);
SHP = 17,5+ (50,8 - 46,3) + 1 = 23,0 (4-I'm a complete) .
Back width, cm:
Shsp = SHS + SHSH.with;
Shsp = 18,2 + 1 = 19 2x (1 complete);
Shsp =18,5 + 1 = 19,5 (4th complete).
The width of the armhole, cm:
PDS = dп. z. p + PN. ol;
PDS = 10,8+2,5=13,3 (1 complete);
PDS = 11,4+2,5=13,9 (4 complete).
Sleeve width, cm:
Sruk = Op + On. p;
Sruk = 29,7 + 5,0 = 35 (1-completeness);
Sruk = 31,5 + 5,0 = 36,5 (4th complete).
Product width along the chest line, see:
Sizd = Shsp + PDS + SHP;
Sizd = 19,2 + 13,3 + 22,7 = 55,2 (1-I completeness);
Sizd = 19,5 + 13,9 + 23 = 56,4 (4-I'm a complete).
After finishing the drawing basics you need to check the joining of the cut parts (shoulder, armhole, side, in the region of the openings, sections of the neck, etc.).
If the product is provided tuck or raised lines, the length of their aligned to the line of the middle of the tuck; the control line is the waist line and on the shelf - a projecting point of the breast (breast center).
Besides the standard shapes included in the OST 17-326 - 74, there are figures of women with different posture (stooped or perevisische).
Posture affects the number of some variables, in particular, changes the length of the front and back, solution top tuck.
 

Recommendations for building a basic drawing on standard measurements can not fully ensure a good fit on the figure. The simplest method to finalize a pattern for the shape given the posture is to change a pattern of shelves in the chest. To this end, through the center of the chest carried out a horizontal line from center front to side seam and a line in the middle of the solution tucks from the shoulder cut to the center of the chest (Fig. 15, a).Caused by lines cut the shelf and to spread or cover with a tuck on the value of the difference between the length measurements of the shelves (Dt.p) actual and projection (i.e., the pattern). Elongation (Fig. 15, b) or shortening (Fig. 15) shelves produced from center front to the center of the chest parallel to the breast line and then nullify the side cut.
When extending the shelf solution tuck increase, and by reducing the length of reduce. With the change of the solution tucks, and the length of the shelves on the front length side of the slice and the line configuration of the openings do not change.