PHASED CONSTRUCTION DRAWING BASICS PRODUCTS 

All drawings of structures built without allowances for seams and ACC.
 The drawing of the back. The level of the waist line. In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper put the point a (Fig. 16) corresponding to the cervical point of the figure. From point A down the vertical delay measurements the length of the back to the waist, taking account of the protrusion of the blades plus the allowance for this measure (Dt.+ PD.t.C) and put the point T.
 the Width of the back. Right through the point T spend a horizontal line and lay on it the measure of the width of the back plus seam allowance (SHS + PN.C). Through the obtained point up spend a vertical line.
 Width of the neck backless. From point A to the right horizontally lay 1/2 of the measurements of the transverse diameter of the neck plus the seam allowance to the width of the neck backless (0.5 d.W+PN.g.C), or 1/3 scoops of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm (SSH : 3+1 cm).
 The depth of the neckline backless. Through the obtained point of the width of the neck backless spend a vertical line (Fig. 17). Up from the waist line on the vertical delay line, measure equal distances from the waist line back to the point the base of the neck, plus a seam allowance to this measure (Dt.CI+PD.t.CI). The resulting point corresponds to the point the base of the neck (The.W). The neckline of the back draw a smooth line.
To build the shoulder cut of the back draw a triangle. For this point the base of the neck down delay period equal to the measure of the height of the shoulder Cap. Through the obtained point to the right hold the horizontal. It from the center at the base of the neck, make a notch with a radius equal to the measure of the width of the shoulder of the slope NR. The resulting point U - shoulder at the closed tuck.
 

  The level lines of the blades. From the point A (Fig. 18) down the vertical lay a cut equal to 0.3 (Dt.+PD.t.C) and put a point L. to the Right through the point L was carried out in a horizontal line - a line of blades.
  The center of the blades (point C) located to the right horizontally from the point L at a distance equal to 0.5 (RC+ PN.C).
If the back middle seam, from the neck point to the right delay value defined by the formula ((PC - HT)/2) - 0.4 or 0.5 cm, where PC is the position of the body; HT - depth waist first.
This value is moved to the right the neckline backless.
  Tuck from the shoulder cut of the back. The bottom side of the triangle, obtained when constructing the shoulder of the cut, continue to the right on the value of the solution tucks and landing, is designed with shoulder cut backless W = 13,3 + 2,5 + 0,5 = 16,3 cm
The resulting point P1 - shoulder with the projected dart.
On the shoulder cut on the distance from the point.W, equal to 1/4 or 1/3 of its length, put a dot and connect it to point C (center of blades), continue the line up to 1 cm From the top end down, lay the length of the tuck of 9 - 11 cm Mortar tuck is 2.5 cm Then equate the right side of the tuck on the left and connect the end of the right side of the tuck with the point P1. Get the right end of the shoulder cut with an open tuck. Shoulder point with an open tuck for the back middle seam building as well as for continuous backrest.The solution of the shoulder tuck will be less than the value of the difference of measurements (PC - HT).
  Line the depth of the armhole. From neck point A down the vertical line delay period equal to the sum of the measurements of the height of the openings in the back and stock on the freedom of the armhole depth (the CDF.s + PG.PR). Through the obtained point to the right hold the horizontal line, which determines the depth of the openings (see Fig. 18).
  The width of the openings. Through the depth of the armhole (Fig. 19) the right from the vertical, defining the width of the back, lay the cut is equal to the measure anterior-posterior diameter of the hand plus seam allowance to the width of the openings (dп.z.p + PN.PR).
The lower part of the armhole draw arcs of radii R1 and R2.
R1 = 0,55 PDS - back;
R2 = 0,45 PDS - shelf.
PZ - tangential point of an arc with a radius R1 from the vertical of the backrest (see Fig. 18 and 19), P6 the point of tangency of the arc with radius R2 with the vertical shelves.
  Drawing shelves. Spend a horizontal line, lay on it a segment equal to the width of the shelves, found from the preliminary calculation, and limit this section by two vertical lines.
Spol = CG + (CG - CG) + PN.p where Spa - width shelves;
SG - chest width;
SG - putting chest second;
SG - poluobhvat chest first;
PSH.p - allowance for the width of the shelves on the chest.

  The waist line was reduced by 1.5 cm, as shown in Fig. 20.
  Mouth width shelves. On a horizontal line from the right vertical delay interval equal to the width of the neck shelves, and through the obtained point up hold a vertical (dashed) line. The width of the neck shelves is determined by the formula dW/2 + PN.g.p or Nl/3 + PN.g.p, where dW is the transverse diameter of the neck; Lim.g.p - the seam allowance to the width of the neck shelves; SSH - poluobhvat neck.
  Point the base of the neck. From the waist line up the dashed lines lay cut equal to the distance from the point to the base of the neck to the waist line in front, plus seam allowance to this value (Dt.p.I + PD.t.p.I). Through the obtained point of the base of the neck hold right horizontal line.
  The depth of the neckline shelves. Down from got horizontal lines on vertical line (mid-shelf) lay the cut equal to the depth of the neck of shelves (0,45 SSH ).
For the design of the neckline of the points of the base of the neck and the depth of the neck (Fig. 21) carry out arc with a radius equal to 0.45 of the School. From the point of intersection of these arcs with the same radius (R=0.45 SSH) to hold the line of the neck.
  The shoulder point. Build a triangle. For this point the base of the neck down the vertical delay difference measurements VP - (Vs.t - W.about.W), where VP - measurement of the height of the shoulder; VSH.t - measurement of the height of neck point; VT.about.W - measurement of the height of the point base of the neck.
Through the obtained point left to spend horizontal. It from the center at the base of the neck, make a notch with a radius equal to the measure of the width of the shoulder of the slope NR. The resulting point - shoulder.
  The center of the chest is determined by the distance from the middle of the chest equal measure TT (the distance between Sosnovyi points) plus the allowance to this measure, i.e. TSG + PTS.g.
  Breast height is defined as the distance from the waist equal to (Dt.p - VG) + 0,7 PT.g where Dt.p - measurement length waist front; VG - measurement of the height of the breast; PV.Mr. stock to measure the height of your chest.
The intersection of the segments that define the center and height of the breast, gives the position of the highest point of the chest.
For finding the position of the right side upper tuck from the top of the neck on the shoulder line lay 1/4 to 1/3 of the SHP measurements and connect the obtained point with the highest point of the chest.
Tuck from the shoulder cut of the back and the top tuck on a shelf at shoulder seam should match.
Solution top tuck determined by the formula 2(SG - SG) - for figures of the 1st and 2nd fittings; 2(SG - SG) + 1 cm for the shapes of the 3rd and 4th fittings.
Then lay the upper value of the solution tucks and equate the left side Darts on the right (Fig. 22).
To find the end of the shoulder cut in the open tuck position from the point of CG is carried out arc 1 of radius equal to the length of the top tuck.
Arc 2 is carried out from the end of the left side tuck with a radius equal to the remaining value of the shoulder cut.
The intersection of the two arcs connected to the end of the left side of the tuck (Fig. 23).
For decoration the upper part of the openings is carried out a smooth curved line from the shoulder point to point P6.
Check the width of the chest in a narrow place. When closed tuck it is equal to: CG + PN.p. If this value is missing, the width of the shelf along this line from the armhole decrease and the line of the openings align again. The width of the openings should not be altered.
  Darts at the waist line of the product adjacent silhouette. The amount of solutions tucks ΣВ waist is determined by the formula ΣВ - SISD (St+ PT)
where SISD - product width line of the breast;
St - measurement of poluobhvat waist;
PT - stock to measure the poluobhvat waist.

The sum of the solutions of recesses distributed in the following ratio (Fig. 24): back - 0,25 ΣВ; the curve in the side seam and 0.30 ΣВ; on the shelf - 0,45 ΣВ (front tuck 0,30 ΣВ on the side - 0,15 ΣВ).
The location of the Darts on the waist line on the back - the distance from the middle back to the left side of the tuck is 10 cm, the length of the tuck 17 cm; on the shelf - the distance from the middle front to the right side of the first tuck is 9 cm, the tuck end is 1 cm below the center of the chest; the second tuck on the shelf is vertically, limiting the width of the openings. Side slice backless located at a distance of 4 cm from the vertical, limiting the width of the back.
  The drawing sleeve. With drawing fundamentals carry the line of openings and closes its upper part with a flexible line-up, ranging from touch points PZ and P6 (Fig. 25).

The connection point of the curves of the openings at the top will be the top of the crown sleeve. The width of the openings is determined by the formula PDS = dп.z.p + PN.PR.
The lower part of the armhole is decorated with radii R1 and R2 as described on p.25.
  The width of the sleeve , Sruc on the level of the depth of the openings is determined by the formula, Sruc = Op + On.p, where Op - measure the circumference of the shoulder;.p - stock to measure the arm circumference.
The magnitude of the landing sleeve is determined by the difference between the half width of the sleeves and width of the openings. 0.5 Sruc - PDS.
The fit of the sleeve on the crown are distributed as follows (Fig. 26): toward the front cut (to the back) 1 - 3 = 0,6(0,5 Sruc-PDS); in the direction of the elbow of the cut (to the shelf) 2 - 4 = 0,4 (0,5 Sruc-PDS).
The values of the distribution of landing sleeve lay the left and right of the closed openings, and get the width of the sleeve at the level of the depth of the armhole, or 0.5 the width of the sleeve in the drawing. Points 3 and 4 limit the vertical (see dotted lines) .
Then from points 3 and 4 lay the left and right segments, respectively, equal to segments 3 - 1 2 - 4. Mirror depict the lower part of the armhole radii relative to the dash-dotted lines.
Spend the tangents to the armhole and the bottom of the sleeves. Of touch points on the armhole raise perpendiculars and lay on them the magnitude of intended landing (Fig. 27): the back - 1.8 cm, shelf 1.5 cm
Through the obtained points carried out tangent to the open armhole. Increase the top part of the sleeve on the amount of the allowance to the height of the crown (POS.OK), and then proceed to the design of the crown, as shown in the drawing (from the highest point of the crown, using 2/3 of the perpendicular from the touch point, the second tangent through detailed point PZ and P6 a smooth line to the circles).
The top part of the sleeve is built.
The sleeve length and the width of its bottom (both long and short) set of models.
Drawing the sleeves should be symmetric about its middle, offset to the right hem by 2 cm (Fig. 28).
  Construction drawing basics duhovnoi skirt. In the drawing the basics of skirts you must have the following measurements: - poluobhvat waist (St), poluobhvat hips (S6), the distance from the waist line to the floor on the sides (DRC), the distance from waist line to floor, front (DSP) and the length of the back to the waist line (Dt.C). When creating drawings take into account the seam allowance at the waist line of PT = 2 cm seam allowance at the hip line Pb = 1 - 2 cm.

In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper put the point T (Fig. 29) and carry out through it a vertical line. Down from point T delay period equal to half the measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B. TB=0,5 Dt.with.
Through the points T and B hold right horizontal lines, respectively indicate the waistline and the hips.
  The width of the skirt at the hip line. From point B horizontally lay the cut is equal to the measure of poluobhvat hips plus allowance to this measure, and restrict the resulting cut vertical SB+Pb.
  The width of the rear cloth at the level of the hip line determined by the formula ((SB+IB)/2)-1, see
A segment indicating the width of the rear cloth, vertical limit.
  The length of the product of TN is determined by the model.
  The length of the lateral slice determined by the formula
TN+(DSB - DSP) - 1.5 cm - for figures of the 1st and 2nd fittings;
TN+(DSB - DSP) is for shapes, 3rd and 4th fittings.
The resulting value lay up the waist line on the vertical line separating the front and rear cloth.

For shapes, the 3rd and 4th of widths. the point T (Fig. 30) are transferred into the position of the point T1 (TT1 = 1.5 cm - the difference between the distances from the waist line to the plane of the seat of figures 4-y and 1-y fullness).
Next, determine the total solution tucks at the waist. ΣВ = (SB + SP) - (St + PT).
The percentage distribution of the total solution tucks:
1 and 2 completeness 3-I and 4-I of fullness
The rear panel .......... 0,35 ΣВ 0,45 ΣВ
The front panel ...... 0,25 0,20 ΣВ ΣВ
The deflection of the side sections .. ΣВ 0,40 0,35 ΣВ
To draw a line the middle of the back of the cloth from the T point to the right horizontally lay 0.5 cm. Through the obtained point at the waist and through point B on the line of the hips hold a straight line, which is the midpoint of the rear cloth skirts. Solution tuck on the rear panel is reduced by 0.5 cm. In the result, the solution tucks to the product of the 1st and 2nd fittings on the rear panel will ΣВ of 0.35 - 0.5 cm, for products of the 3rd and 4th of widths. ΣВ it is 0.45 - 0.5 cm
The skirts on figure 3-th and 4-th fullness instead of one of the Darts on the back panel is usually two. The first tuck located on a distance of 9 - 10 cm from the mid line, its length 12 - 14 cm; in the presence of the second tuck it is separated from the first at a distance of 4 cm side cut, length 11 - 13 cm.
The amount of deflection of the side sections of the skirt is determined relative to the side lines in the following percentages: in the direction of the back cloth 35 and the side front panels - 66.
The tuck on the front panel of the skirt is placed on the continuation of the shelves or tuck at a distance of 17 - 18 cm from mid front. In the latter case, the solution of the Darts is reduced by 0.5 cm and distribute this value in the form of planting. The length of the Darts 8 cm - 10 cm
The expansion of the skirt at the hem in the straight silhouette (the base) is 6 - 8 cm This value is distributed relative to the side lines in the following percentages: in the direction of the front cloth - 65 - 70 and towards the rear of the cloth - 30 - 35.
The side sections of the front cloth call from the hips up and down on the side of cut back the cloth, make out the hem and waist line, as in the drawing, then test them mate. To the line of the middle of the rear panels, and side sections at the level of the bottom line raise perpendiculars length of about 4 cm and it line the bottom line.
Calculation for plotting the drawing basics of dress adjacent silhouette (base 1) are presented in table. 7.