Chapter 4. CONSTRUCTION DRAWING BASICS SHIFT DRESSES OF A DIRECT SILHOUETTE (BASE 2) 

Before plotting the drawing basics of shift dresses straight silhouette to make a preliminary calculation of the main sections of the shelves, back and sleeves using individual measurements and the allowances for free customized fit (tab. 8).
 

Below is the sequence of preliminary design one-piece women dresses straight silhouette for a figure of 48 size IV growth of the 2nd completeness (164 - 96 - 108).
The width of the shelves, see:
PS = CG + (CG - CI) + PN.p;
SHP = 17,3 + (50,4 - 45,9) + 1 = 22,8.
Back width, cm:
Shsp = RC + PN.with;
Shsp = 18,3 + 1,2 = 19,5.
The width of the armhole, cm:
PDS = dп.z.p + ~PN.ol;
PDS = 11 + 3 = 14.
Sleeve width, cm:
Sruk = Op + On.p;
Sruk = 30,3 + 6 = 36,3.
Product width along the chest line, see:
Sizd = Shsp + PDS + SHP;
Sizd = 19,5 + 14 + 22,8 = 56,3.
The drawing basics products are straight line measurements use figures and calculations for the phased construction drawing basics products adjacent silhouette to the subsection "Tuck on the waist line of the product adjacent silhouette" (see Fig. 16 - 23, pp. 23 - 28).
  The construction of the middle line of the back. The construction of the middle line of the back in the drawing affects the fit in the figure. From the shape of the back depends on the selection of silhouette products. To more accurately determine the completeness of the figures help the measurements of poluobhvat hips Sat and the depth of the second waist GT relative to the plane tangent blades.
Figures the 1st of completeness have a negative value of the difference of measurements GT and GT, see:
GT - GT = 4,8 - 5,2 = - 0,4.
When building a drawing, the middle line of the back at the hip line for figures 1st completeness tilts to the right by 0.4 cm, or pass through the original vertical line.
Shape 4th of completeness have a positive value of the difference of measurements GT and GT, see:
GT - GT = 6,6 - 4,9 = 1,7.
The middle line of the back when you build the product drawing for shapes 4th of fullness on the hip line will deviate from the point B to the left by 1.7 cm (point B1), i.e., for shapes of the 3rd and 4th fullness of the silhouette, and even more narrowed down, almost is not recommended. The middle line of the back is carried out through the neck point A, point B1 and further to the hem (Fig. 31).
 

The construction of the side sections. The construction of the side sections is reduced to the determination of their provisions on the lines of the armhole depth, waist, hip and hem. As a rule, the location of the side cuts is conditional on the selected model. In the products of a direct silhouette with a sleeve casual shirt classic example is the placement of the lateral slices in the center of the openings.
If the model provided the location of the pockets in the side seams, the side sections of the slip to the side of the shelf by 1/3 of the width of the openings (see dashed line).
From the point on the line width of the armhole is lowered perpendicular to the intersection lines of the waist, hips and hem. This line could be a helpful when you build the side sections of the shelves and backless and side cut of the back and shelves with visual saujani products downwards. The product straight line, this line will be the side cut of the back and side section of shelves at the bottom will deviate by 1.5 - 2.5 cm in the back side.
Product width on the hip line will be equal, see:
SB + Pb = 50 + 2 = 52 - figures for the 1st completeness;
SB + Pb = 52 + 2 = 54 - figures for the 2nd completeness;
SB + Pb = 54 + 2 = 56 - for shapes 3rd completeness;
SB + Pb = 56 + 2 = 58 - figures for the 4th of completeness.

  Note. In Fig. 31 drawing of the shift dresses straight silhouette is built for the shape of the 2nd completeness.
The amount of the allowance to the width of the product at the hips may vary as desired.
Product width at the hip line relative to the width of the scarf on the chest can be a value positive or negative. The main factor affecting this value is the measure of poluobhvat hips, SB, and Pb stock. This measurement determines the silhouette of the product.
If the side seam is shifted from the point lying in the middle line of the width of the openings, the distance of the side sections of the shelves and back from the vertical determined by the ratio of 1: 2. In this case, if the side seam is shifted towards the shelf, increasing the distance along the line of the bottom of the product should be from the shelves, and Vice versa.
  Making bottom line. The bottom line runs parallel to the waist line at the back and side sections to the middle of the shelves is lowered by 0,5 - 0,7 see
The calculation for the drawing fundamentals shift dresses straight silhouette (base 2) 48 IV size growth (164-96-104) various fittings are given in tab. 9.