Chapter 4. SIMULATION SHIFT DRESSES FITTING AND SEMI-FITTED SILHOUETTES ON THE BASIS OF THE DRAWINGS BASIS OF THE BODICE AND SKIRT 

When building a drawing pattern one-piece dress semi-fitted silhouette on the basis of the drawings basis of the bodice and skirt adds complexity to the design process, but the pattern made by this method, accurately reflect features of a particular shape.
For a visual example, below are drawings of products, built for anthropometric measurements (OST 17-326 - 74) on the figures of the 1st and 4th Polnochnyj groups of size 48 with the growth of 164 cm
When creating drawings necessary to strictly observe the balance of the product in detail of the skirt and a bodice with their combination: the combination of parts must be carried out through the waist from the side sections (i.e., from the most protruding points in the drawing); the allowance for free customized fit at the waist line of the bodice and skirt should be the same; the vertical auxiliary line in the drawing between the side sections must be perpendicular to the line width of the scarf at the level of the width of the chest and the areas of the waist, located at the side sections.
The line of mid front and back must be perpendicular to the line width of the chest.
The resulting drawings are basic patterns to create patterns for the following products:
adjacent silhouette cut "princesses";
cutting above or below the waist;
semi-fitted silhouette.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING BASIC PATTERNS
 

Basic patterns dresses based on drawings of the skirt and the bodice, clearly identify the causes and locations of inaccuracies, full-cut structures built by calculation. Some of the features of the shape (posture etc.) with dimensions not provided, the structures are obtained randomly, sometimes at the expense of good fit. In Fig. 52, a, b are easily traced product features two extreme fullness when combining the skirt with the bodice at the most exposed points.
The basic rules for constructing one-piece structures from the foundations of the bodice and skirt (basics 1) apply to any polnocny group. The build starts with the details of the back and is held in this manner.
1. On a sheet of paper, spend a vertical line and attach the patterns of the bodice back and the back panels of the skirt, aligning them at the waist side of the cut. From the side of the slice to the middle of the back open tuck (shaded area in the drawing).
2. The line width of the back and waist line continue to the right. Both these lines are perpendicular lines the middle of the back.
3. Conduct vertical construction line OO1.
4. Pattern of bodice front is placed so that the mid line of the front was perpendicular to the line width of the chest, and continue the line of the middle of the front down.
5. Combine patterns front cloth skirt and bodice front waist to the side of the slice.
Then combine the middle of the bodice front and the front cloth skirts. Since the length of the waist line of the bodice is shorter than the length of the waist line of the skirt, then the skirt opposite the tuck bodice open solution for relief (see dashed lines).
In the field of second Darts in the skirt a bit will go on the bodice (this defect disappears in one-piece dress casual "princesses").
In the product drawing 4th of completeness (see Fig. 52, b) when combining parts, the skirt will be wider than the bodice. This is due to the large volume of hips in comparison with the figure of the 1st of completeness. For cap products sections bodice and skirt waist need to be equal. This is done as follows: the back is cut in the direction from the waist to the armhole and bred on the value of the second tuck of the skirt. The side cut of the back and the armhole is a new position (see dashed line).
On the shelf in the waist area will also open tuck (a consequence of the large difference measurements at the hip line on the figures of the 4th of completeness).
Hatched areas in the drawings of the products of the 1st and 4th fullness in the waist area to reveal the amount that you need to lengthen the side sections when constructing one-piece structures by calculations. If this is not done, then in the finished product, especially in a dress-shirt (if worn with the belt), back, and front SAG and Boca snub. This drawback can be avoided by the introduction of seams in the middle of the back and shelves or the introduction of relief passing through the projecting point of the breast.
To drawing basic patterns in final form, cover the shaded areas on the waist, combining a skirt with shelf and backrest, respectively in the midline front and back (see Fig. 52, C, d).
As a result, the product of the 1st completeness of line mid-back shift to the left, the product of the 4th of completeness of line mid-back will also shift to the left, and line the middle shelves to the right.
Drawing basic patterns outlined with bold lines, the dashed line shows the lateral cut of the product semi-fitted silhouette, slim - straight silhouette.
Drawings constructed by combining two separate pieces - bodice and skirt can vary widely in any silhouette decisions different designs.

DRESSES STRAIGHT SILHOUETTE 

When you build the product drawing straight silhouette (dress-shirt, sleeveless, blouson, coat-dresses and other products) with a belt or drawstring waist, you should enter a middle seam on the back, and figures the 4th of completeness, also on the shelf. If these joints are easy to make the elongation of the side sections.
The side sections of the jewelry piece can be straight or slightly concave in the area from the line of the armhole to the waist line. The middle seatback can croatica along these lines the middle of the back. If the back is solid, the line of its middle should be straight obtained from combining the two extreme points (neck and bottom of the product). If the product provides a seam, the neck point is withdrawn to the right by 0.5 - 0.7 cm due to the reduction of the solution of the shoulder tuck. The width of the backrest in a narrow space kompensiruet straightening the line of openings.
Top tuck on the shelf translate into any cut or design line, provided by the model. Darts at the waist in the basis of a bodice and skirt, straight silhouette products are not provided.
When creating drawings t-shirt dress in which the waistline is not made,the combination of bodice and skirt produced through the waist from the middle of the back and shelves, and visits the highest points of the side sections of the skirt to the bodice.

DRESS ADJACENT SILHOUETTE

Cut "Princess" is one of the most accurate structures from the group of shift dresses and adjoining silhouette. This fit can most accurately display the personality of the figure as vertical lines in the product drawing cut "princesses" are in the locations of the Darts on the bodice and skirt.
 

Casual dresses "princesses" can consist of six or more parts depending on the degree of fit of the waist, as well as from the expansion of the product on the bottom. The bottom line is you can expand due to the expansion of single cut parts and also with the help podgainij parts, such as Godet, mutual or one-sided folds, or other structural techniques. If the product needs a wider flare, apply the design with a partial undercut below the waist line (Fig. 53). Cut off the bottom part of the skirt is cut along the planned lines and pushing for the necessary amount of expansion of the product.
One-piece dress casual "princesses" will never go out of fashion. They can vary in the degree process at the locations of lines and in other areas depending on the direction of fashion. This design is popular because long, uninterrupted lines make the figure more slender. Sometimes the line reliefs in the product cut "princesses" can be displaced from the center of the chest to the side of the openings. These lines can extend from the cutoff armholes or off the shoulder cut.If the offset does not exceed 2 cm, then a slight tuck solution, the remainder of the travel of the relief in the direction of the openings, distributed on the landing of the tissue in the breast area. If the relief displacement in the direction of the openings is greater than 2 cm or it starts from the cut of the armholes on the middle parts of the shelf insert the dart from the center of the chest to the sides (Fig. 54).
 

When you move the reliefs in the side sections of the product at the waist line becomes less tight fit, i.e., a product cut "Princess" instead of the adjacent silhouette gets poluprilegayuschy.
To ensure good planting articles in the figure in the region of the shoulder cut fully or partially close the dart. On line relief this tuck open, as a result, the terrain is slightly increased. The magnitude of the elongation of the terrain by dilution (from the point P3) extend the line of the relief on the cutting side of the back.
Option casual "princesses" are products of the combined cut. In this embodiment, one-piece front panel is combined with a cutting piece bodice and skirt waist, seam hidden by the belt detail. Such a combined design is used when you want to visually reduce the waist. In this case, the waist width and perceived width shift average front detail. Combined structures are very numerous.

DRESSES SEMI-FITTED SILHOUETTE

Semilying silhouette is an intermediate between direct and adjacent. Products semi-fitted silhouette is often recommended for women the waist should not emphasize the tight fit, and only marginally to define it. In such cases impressive looking products semi-fitted silhouette, cut on the bias yarns, as the cloth in this case the plastic hugs the figure. Drawings of such products can be made in direct or poluprilegayuschy silhouette.
 

Fabric for products, cut out on the bias thread, you can apply a variety of patterns: plaid, striped, printed, and dyed. To get the shift pattern semi-fitted products for cutting on the bias thread, you need to move the top a tuck on the shelf from the shoulder cut in the side cut at an angle of 45' to the line of mid front (Fig. 55,a).
Drawing one-piece dress shown in Fig. 55, b,in, created on the basis of the drawing of the base 1 by the method of combining the bodice and skirt waist. Solution Darts at the waist line of the back is partially placed in the middle and the side sections (shaded areas). The solution of the shoulder tuck on the back is distributed in a medium cut, in-line openings (by dilution) and partly on the fit of the shoulder cut. On the shelf part of the tuck at the waist transferred to the upper tuck in the side cut on the middle line of the front.