Chapter 4. CONSTRUCTING AND CONSTRUCTIVE MODELLING COLLARS

OVERVIEW COLLARS 

The collar is not the main detail of the product, often it's even missing in the product. Collars can be attributed to the finishes that complement the composition of the product, they are connected this silhouette shape and reflect its stylistic features.
However, the shape of the neckline is an essential element in dress, a subordinate individual peculiarities not only of the woman's face, but her entire figure. As mentioned above, the basis for the design of the dress by the authors laid the silhouette of the solutions for the shapes of different proportions on the basis of a typology of different fittings.
The collars on this principle to design the impossible, for to classify the faces of women is almost impossible, on the contrary, they need to individualize. Thanks to a good neck and the shape of the collar you can find the most successful version of the framing of the face.
In this Chapter the methodology of constructing and constructive modelling collars of various shapes, the most common in the modern range of women's clothing.
Collars vary in shape, design, size and processing methods.
According to the method of connection with the neck it is possible to allocate two main types of collars used in the products: vtechenie in the neck and tselnokrajnie with shelf.
Each of these types of collars depending on the shape can be upright, folded, poliatlonu women's flat and fantasies.
Depending on the shape of the neck collars collars are divided into closed and open mouth.
When making drawings of dresses of different designs using exactly the exhaust drawing the basics. When construction of the collar, the drawing must be created anew for each specific case, due to the fact that the basis for its construction is the neck of the product, and it is constantly changing.
The main thing in designing a collar to match the height of his invisible strut and the provisions of the neckline shape and size of the neck. So, starting to design the collar, you need to specify the measurements and link them with the appropriate form of the neck, otherwise you will not be able to create well-matched beautiful collar shape. The form of the outer edge of the collar in a constructive solution depends on fashion, style and silhouette forms, subordinates the individual characteristics of the woman.
Casting polyathlone collars are collars soft forms due to the presence of invisible cap rack, gently turning into the main collar (departure). The creation of such collars is difficult because of the need to determine the height of the rack width of the visible part and the correct distance from the neck. The collars can be of various shapes; in each case requires an appropriate shape of the neck (the neckline).
There are many options for building collars by calculation from the right angle, but they all are based on the calculation method, established a practical way. The authors of this book when building poliatlonu collars partially used the experience of foreign design. The technique of drawing collars developed in accordance with modern type and can serve as a basis for creating various forms of turn-down collars.The stepwise method of constructing a drawing will help us build a drawing of the collar of any shapes, using drawing fundamentals bodice and building lines that correctly reflect the magnitude and changes of the collar in a particular case.

METHOD OF CONSTRUCTING SEW-IN COLLARS

Drawings of collars are produced in several stages.
1. On a sheet of paper transfer the drawing basics of properly constructed bodice with neckline round shape. The line of mid front and continue upwards. From the point base of the neck.sh (Fig. 81, a) drop the perpendicular. Get a right angle 1. Vertex of this angle in the future will be the centre of the circles with the constructive simulation collars.
2. Hold the angle bisector AA 1 (Fig. 81, 6).
3. Connect the shelf with the back at the point the base of the neck to line the middle of the back AB is perpendicular bisector of AA (Fig. 81,). Hold the neckline of the back.
4. Received a right angle 2 rays divide into three equal angles (Fig. 82, a). Denote the rays: 1 - front beam; 2 - shoulder; 3 - rear beam.
Beam 2, defining the shoulder line with the shoulder cut shelves may not be the same, but its position will be constant in any constructive decision of the collar, i.e. it is the main line of the building, which will be constructive simulation collars new forms.
5. Spend an arc of a circle from the vertex of a right angle 1 bounded by a continuation of the line mid-front and the beam 3 (Fig. 82, b). Point on the ray in figure 3 connect the pattern with a point B. From point b perpendicular to line AB lay the segment BB', is equal to the difference between the length of the neck of the bodice of the SS" and a length of line vrachevanie collar SS" (about 1 - 2cm) Through the point Of' hold the line the middle of collar, parallel to the mid line of the back.
6. Mark the collar. To do this, from the top of the angle 1 hold the compass in succession, starting from the line of vrachevanie collar, at a distance of 3 cm from each other four arcs of a circle bounded by the line mid-front and the beam 3 (Fig. 82,).
On the line of mid-collar to note four points at a distance of 3 cm from each other. Arcs continue drawing curves curves so that they are connected with points on the line of the middle of the collar at right angles. To get the right angle allowed the reduction of the distances between the circles through the middle of the collar. This is done in order to ready in the middle of the collar line of departure was a direct.
A circle drawn in the last step, will calculate the reduction collar at the line of departure (the external edge), and storing the resulting when you build the form and define the height of the rack.
Rack height determines the angle at which the collar is lowered on the dress and the size of the dress, which is hidden under the collar.

If you build a collar, not shifting arcs of circles, it will be women's flat and close part of the dress is equal to the width of the collar (collar width of three bars will close dress 9 cm). To the collar against the neck, it is necessary to increase the width of the collar stand height and reduce the length of the flight. The location of the stand is characterized by a form of collar: stand in the middle of the collar in the back, will create the Peter pan collar (Fig. 83, a); stand in the middle of the front, creating a cowl (Fig.83, b) and strut around the collar, create a collar - a round collar (Fig. 83,).
  Reducing the length of the line of departure of the collar. As a result of increasing the width of the collar on the bar line of departure of the collar rises above the dress, so its length must be reduced. The perfect way to reduce the length of the line of departure of the collar is stygiana. However, not all fabrics lend themselves to wet-heat treatment, so as to reduce the length of the collar on departure can, notched collar pattern for applying lines (rays) and put part of the collar by leaving each other at the desired value.
Sometimes cuts can serve as rays 1 and 3 obtained at the 4th step of building the foundations of a collar (see Fig. 82, a).

The correct reduction of the outer edge of the collar is obtained when the sectors enclosed between the line mid-front and the beam 3, are divided further into parts. The rear sector of a collar is not subject to division, as it lies on a relatively straight plane back. The rays, on which the decrease indicated by the figures 1', 2', 3', 4' and 5' (Fig. 84, a).
Thus, the decrease in the length of the line of departure of the collar is produced in stages in the following sequence.
1. Determine the desired width of the collar (take it by the number of circles).
2. Put lines dividing the sectors and indicate their numbers. The shoulder line while reducing the collar at the line of departure is not used.
3. Translate on a tracing-paper collar with the expected lines of divisions.
4. Collar with tracing paper transferred to the blank sheet of paper. Determine the amount of reduction of each plot and put it to the right of the lines, which will undergo reduction (see hatched areas in Fig. 84, a). A more rational value to decrease each plot is the value at 1.5 cm.
5. Cut collar by applying lines, not reaching the inner cutoff of 0.2 cm, and close to departure on the planned value (1.5 cm) each marked area (see Fig. 84, a), it is important that the collar is not reduced by the internal slice - slice vrachevanie collar in the neck.
6. Get the pattern and get the collar forms a soft, slightly adjacent to the neck, but without stand (see Fig. 84, b). The width of the collar remains the same (projected) without change.
  Phased construction of the stand collar. To the right in the drawing collar soft footed take the pattern of a collar received in the previous step (a shorter flight), and completed her rack to the desired height and the desired location.
The height of the stand is determined by the number of arcs of construction circles in the drawing of the collar. The distance between two adjacent arcs is equal to 3 cm, arbitrarily designate one division. Low stand height equal to half of this division, the average stand - alone division and high stands, two divisions, etc., but not greater than the width of the collar.
The following are three main locations stands that are derived to produce a series of collars: rear strut; strut front and strut around.

In Fig. 85, 86 and 87 are shown building a three collars soft shapes with different arrangement of racks height one increment (3 cm), built on the mouth of the main drawing of the bodice.
Building a stand collar is carried out in five stages.
1. Translate the pattern of the collar with the reduced departure on a blank sheet of paper and mark the position of the line of the shoulder. Continue up the line, which will expand the collar on the bar; to stand in the back continue the line of the middle of the collar at the back (Fig. 85, a), for front - line mid-front collar (Fig. 86, a) and for round racks line the middle of the collar front and back shoulder line (Fig. 87, a).
2. Pattern collar combine with his drawing on the paper and slip the collar through the extension on the value of the stand, leaving in place the opposite end of the collar (Fig, 85, b; 86 b and 87 b).
Draw the line of her collar in the new position and continue the shoulder line to the new line of vrachevanie collar.
In the collar back in the process of building a stand collar moves to the left beyond the line of the middle of the collar (see Fig. 85, b), the collar front right behind the line of the middle of the front (see Fig. 86, b) and the collar round stand collar relative to the strut will be located evenly along its length (see Fig. 87, b).
3. Connect the ends of the new line of vrachevanie collar and the other end to fly straight lines. Get a new line of mid-collar in front and back. From the end of the new line of mid-collar raise a perpendicular of length equal to the height of the stands (Fig. 85, a; 86, and 87 in). Then draw a bar with the patterns, focusing on a new line of vrachevanie collar. In the collar with racks front and rear (see Fig.85 and 86) the new line of vrachevanie collar in the neck will be held at a right angle from its middle at a distance equal to 2/3 of the stand height, and a smooth curve connected with the opposite end of the line of vrachevanie collar in the neck.
In a collar with a round stand (clamp) rack height the same at all points and the line of vrachevanie collar at a right angle connects with the lines of the mid-collar in front and back.
4. After holding the line stand put a check mark on the line vrachevanie collar at the level of the shoulder seam (Fig. 85, d; 86, d 87, d).
5. Check the width of the collar (Fig. 85, d; 86, d 87, d). It should be equal to the projected width. If when drawing the line stands the width of the collar has changed, clarify sections, as shown in the drawing.
This completes the construction drawing set round collar soft forms adjacent to the neck. Collars of this form are often used in clothing and dresses for young people.

COLLARS FOR NECK ROUND SHAPE 

  Collar on a round rack with a different clasp. All three types discussed above collars are the basis for the construction of collars of different shapes, they determine the style of the dress and character of the clasp.
For products front-buttoned suits collar in the back. This is due to the configuration of the neck of the man, raised the rear and lowered the front. Products with a clasp in the back can look quite finished without collars..
In products with a clasp at the back collars can be of three basic types, constructed above.

In products with closure back collar may have a clasp at the butt (Fig. 88, a) or halves of the collar can come together, forming a circular rack (Fig. 88, b).
Collar round stand can consist of two halves (Fig. 88,). In this design it can be folded front and rear, if provided the length of the ends of the collar at each other, or folded in front. Departure form the fold-over collar two halves may be different, and stand to the ends of the collar is reduced to nothing.
From that, how much the collar is separated from the neck, depends on the style of the dress. Adjacent to the neck collars are used mainly in casual official dresses. Behind neck collars are used in products from fancy fabrics or evening dresses.
Form-fitting product and its purpose determine the height of the rack. In turn, the rack height depends on the width of the collar and on the magnitude of diversion from his neck. Rack height can not be more than twice the size of the drain collar from the neck, if even allows the width of the collar.

  The collars on the front rear with various behind the neck. Depending on the width of the collar stand height and distance from the round neck collars can be very diverse (Fig. 89).
Collars are very small and very large depending on the function of the product and of fabric. The form of such collars require rectification of the line of departure. The amount needed to straighten the collar at the line of departure, equal to the difference between the length of the line of departure and the length of the arc of a circle, distant from the line of departure of one division. In Fig. 90 and 91 are two versions of these collars for various purposes.

Option 1. Small collar is not very tight fitting to the neck, vacany in the usual round the neck (Fig. 90, a). Width of collar is 1.5 of division (4,5 cm) rack height - 2.25 cm, collar behind neck 1.5 cm
Collar first, right along the line (Fig. 90, b) departure, an amount equal to the difference between the length of the line of departure and the length of the arc of a circumference at a distance from the line of departure, equal to half the width of the collar. Then build the rack (Fig. 90).
To increase the height of the rack and bringing it closer to the neck from the back additionally straighten the line of departure of the collar beam 5'.
The shape of the ends of the collar can be different, as shown in Fig. 90. This collar will look the same as buttoned the top button and unbuttoned. In this position, hold it shortened the departure Desk.
Option 2. Collar for a wide neckline with a round neck line (Fig. 91, a). Width of collar is 2.5 division (7,5 cm) rack height - 2 divisions (6 cm), the collar behind the neck on the 3.5 division (10.5 cm) .

In Fig. 91, shows a decrease in the length of the line of departure of the collar by an amount equal to the difference between the length of the line of departure and an arc of a circle (see the dashed line), separated from the line of departure of one increment (3 cm).
When straightening the collar at the line of departure to happen the curvature of the sections of the collar. They need to be aligned to build the stand (as in the drawing), and then continue to build your stand (Fig. 91, b, C).
To avoid stretching the neckline of the dress are great collars for straightening flying through vrachevanie in the neck shortened slightly.
  Collars around the neck, cap rack. Collars with cap or banded bar, vecanoi round the neck, attached to clothing sporty character. They are parts of functional products for daily wear (dresses, blouses, shirts). Collars such form and looks spectacular in evening dresses on the women sports physique. The correct constructive solution of the collars allows them to have the same look as when buttoned and unbuttoned neckline. This effect is achieved by the correct ratio of the width of the collar and stand (3: 2).The standard width of a collar of such a constructive solution is equal to 1.5 of division (4.5 cm) at the height of the rack is equal to 1 division (3 cm). In addition, the collar at the back go right by 0.5 cm more than regular round fold-over collars; straightening the line of departure is 2 cm in the beam 5' and 1.5 cm in the remaining four.
The construction of the collar stand cap are based on drawing basics collarless with a round counter. Additional methods of building are: straightening the collar on the beam 5', the lengthening of the front width polutanata (2.5 - 4 cm); the design of the ends of the collar.
Before building a set of collar shift counter set its dimensions: the width of the collar is equal to 1.5 of division (4.5 cm); rack height - 1 division (3 cm); width of polutanata - 3 cm.

Below is the sequence of construction of such a collar.
1. Determine the width of the collar in the drawing by circles (Fig. 92, a).
2. Mark the place and size reducing collar for departure on the five rays (Fig. 92, b).
3. Straighten the collar on the line of departure (Fig. 92,).
4. Aligning the line of flight and line of vrachevanie collar in the neck. Translate straightened the collar on a clean sheet.
5. Round build the rack (Fig. 92, g).
6. Extend rack from the front.
7. Draw up the ends of the collar.
In the process of straightening the collar line of departure and the neck bent. Before you build the stand they need to be aligned. The building stands are on the main drawing of the collar with the round bar described above and start with postavleniya perpendicular to the new line of mid-collar; at this point it is necessary to monitor the width of the collar and the height of the stand provided an estimate.
The elongation of the front width polutanata are on line vrachevanie of the collar to the neckline, starting from the point A (see Fig. 92, g) and continuing the line to the right. At a distance 0.7 cm from the mid front on the line stand put the point A1. The end of the bar draw a smooth line joining the points A and A1. For registration the end of the collar through the point A1, hold the line parallel to the line AB, then point B1 at the end of the collar connecting with a smooth curve with the point at the intersection of the shoulder line with the line of flight of the collar.
  Collars with combined stand. Collar with a stitched stand in women's clothes borrowed from men's clothing. The construction of such a collar is carried out in three stages: the construction of the stand; the construction of the collar based on the stand; the connecting stand collar.
Stand can be an independent detail in the clothes or the invisible part of the collar. As a standalone item and it has a different design solution. From the neckline to the right carried an extra arc of a circle, distant from the mouth of one increment (3 cm). This is necessary in order to line vrachevanie rack in the neck and the neck line was a single line, and hence the exact pair and well fitting collar. For external cut strut pattern is cut and diluted by an amount providing the gap stands from the neck.
Thus, the length of the line cap and line length vrachevanie stand in the neck when building all collars is not changed, and affected only the outer cut of the rack. The height of the stand as a separate collar may be different. Increase the height of such a stand is possible due to the expansion of the neck desired. The height stands for the standard neck is 1 division (3 cm).

1. The construction of the stand-up collar in the drawing the basics of a standard neck. In the drawing the neck, a second line of the neck towards the center at a distance of 3 cm from the main line. Applied to the beams (Fig. 93, a). The rack is cut along these rays on the inner side and throw of the rack a certain distance (Fig. 93, b) circumferentially, as it will be the external cut. When cutting a rack on the rear beams (4' and 5') part bred so that the opposite cut stand was lying on the same straight line from the middle of the stand to the shoulder line.Each front beam (1', 2' and 3') rack is diluted by the amount of solution rear beam (about 1 cm in each beam). You then need to align the curved building line (Fig. 93) and check the length of the line of vrachevanie rack in the neck with the length of the neckline. The end of the bar extends to the width of polutanata (Fig. 93, g).
2. The construction of the collar based on the rack. The strut pattern is cut along the planned lines of rays 1'- 5' and pushing of the rack through vrachevanie it in the neck (Fig. 93, d). This line will be the base for the departure of the collar. The standard width of the collar at the ends equal to twice the width of the collar in the middle. To the width of the collar across the line of departure add 1 cm to close the line vrachevanie rack in the neck.
3. The connection of the strut with a collar. This collar is constructed on the basis of the rack has a good mate with a curved neckline and hugs the neck, as the line connecting the collar stand and the collar of the uniform.
The shape of the ends of the collar can be different and depends on fashion.
In Fig. 93, e, and f illustrates the connection of the collar to the two extreme points.

COLLARS FOR NECK V SHAPE

The neckline, cut the front angle is called a V-shaped. The construction of the collar is conducted according to the principle described above, but with additional phase, which is determined by the length of the neck V-shaped. The building stands to this collar remains unchanged. Due to the fact that elongates the neck, it is advisable to lengthen and collar through vrachevanie it in the neck instead of cutting it at the line of departure. The effect of the elongation by an amount equal to the reduction is the same.Therefore, the authors suggest to use the last option as more appropriate when constructing collars in this group. If the length of the neck would be lower than planned reduction collar on the fly, simultaneously with the elongation of the neck of the collar is a partial reduction of his departure. Reduction exposed the whole plot in the area of the beam 5'. The elongation begins from the beam 4' is fully or partially depending on the length of the neck and then equally in the other three beams, located on the shelf.
Shoulder line in this group of collars remains unchanged is the basic construction line.
For V-shaped neck build four basic types of collar.
1. Banded collars are of different width, shape and distance from the neck. Used in products tselnokrajnimi in the middle of the front and clasp. Collars in this form visible seam compound it with the shelf at the edge of the Board (rescap), which need to be masked or artistic issue.
2. Collars, tselnokrajnie with a mantle (shawl collar and Apache), as a rule, are cut narrow in the Central onboard fastener products. They have a seam in the middle back. Wide collar this design is not recommended due to the shortened edge of the collar on the fly, which can greatly delay the departure and distort the intended shape of the collar.
3. Collars with lapels two parts are used in suits, dresses, coats, working clothes and clothes of other species. They have a good fit, but time consuming in processing.
4. A combination is called a collar, which from the side of the shelves has a bottom collar, and the top is covered with podborom, tselnokrajnimi with a collar. They have the appearance of chalk. Such collars often tailor oblique direction of the threads of the fabric. They serve as a decoration in dress, has beautiful look and good fit.
  Banded collars. The principle of constructing a stitched collars of the various forms is identical. The difference lies in the choice of variables, which are extended collars through vrachevanie in the neckline and shorten the line of departure.

Greater reduction from the options below the collar (Fig. 94) is exposed to a small collar, as neck, in which he stachivaya, lengthened by flying lower than planned reduction. The reduction of each front beam is divided equally, i.e., at 0.75 cm collar elongates neckline and 0.75 cm shorter flight. Collar beam-4' lengthened by 0.5 cm and shorter flying 1 see
  Option 1. Small collar with a small cavity in the neck (Fig. 94, a). Width of collar is 2.5 division (7.5 cm); rack height - 1 division (3 cm); the distance from the neck 0.5 division (1.5 cm).
The collar extends through vrachevanie in the neck by four rays and reduce the line of departure on the beams 4' and b'.
  Option 2. Large collar with straight or sharp ends at the lower neck (Fig. 94, b). The width of the collar is equal to 3 divisions (9 cm); rack height - 1 division (3 cm); the distance from the neck - division 1 (3 cm).
The collar extends through vrachevanie in the neck by four rays and reduce at the 4'-th beam partially (0.75 cm) and 5'-mu full (1.5 cm).
  Option 3. Collar type chalk at a lower neckline and the displaced onboard fastener (Fig. 94,). The width of the collar is equal to 3.5 division (10.5 cm); rack height - 2 divisions (6 cm); the distance from the neck - division 1 (3 cm).
Collar extend by four beams, reducing the beam 4' and a value of 0.5 cm and the beam 5' is fully (1.5 cm).

  Collar-Schalke, Apache and raskupili. Between the construction drawings and casting collars one-piece V-shaped neckline there is a big difference. From the casting of the collar line vrachevanie in the neck shorter than the line of departure, while the shift collar is the length of the line of departure is equal to the length of the inner cut of the collar (Fig. 95, a) in the area from the waist to the beam 2. When creating drawings of the collar chalk it is necessary to remember one more important condition: if the line of the neck spaced from the neck on some kind of value ГГ1 (Fig.95, b), then the same amount ТТ1 it will move away from the point of intersection of the waist line of the middle of the front (see dashed lines in Fig. 95, b). When properly constructed collar this line should pass through the point T. this requires at the shoulder line to cut and deploy the collar so that its inner cut was at the waist line at point T, and when the clasp of the product from the front - at the edge of the bead at point T2 (Fig. 95 in). The angle of withdrawal of the collar from the shoulder line will increase by increasing the width of polutanata (Fig. 95, b, C).
Conical circumference can be used when constructing a shawl collar type. After determining the position of the end of the collar commence construction of the rack. Its width from middle of collar to the shoulder line constant, and only after the shoulder stand width as the width of the visible part of the collar, tapers to the end of the collar.
Constructed in this way, the collar is connected to the shelf at the point the base of the neck and the point T and T2 (see Fig. 95, b, C). Between a mantle and a collar in the drawing, there is a gap - tuck (Fig. 96) . In the products with the displaced onboard fastener that tuck be sure to grind off to make the neck slightly curved. In collars with raskupili that tuck place between the collar and lapel.

In Fig. 96, 97 and 98, respectively, shows a gradual building-up collar chalky, Apache and collar raskupili.
  Collar - Schalke, one-piece with the shelf (see Fig. 96). Width of collar is 2.5 division (7.5 cm); rack height - 1 division (3 cm). The collar is built on the basis of drawing the usual round neck.
  Collar apash (see Fig. 97). Width of collar is 2 divisions (6 cm); rack height - 1 division (3 cm); behind the neck for a 0.5 division (1.5 cm).
Collar raskupili (see Fig. 98). The width of the collar is equal to 4 ticks (12 cm); rack height - 1 division (3 cm); behind the neck for a 0.5 division (1.5 cm).

COLLARS FANTAZI 

Most are simple in their design collars as straight stands or nastronie bakey in the form of the neck. Direct and Podkayne stands are around the neck as a closed ring. They have different height and different direction of grain lines. More efficient in podkralas the rack to position the lobe filament perpendicular to the direction of grain lines in the shelf. Information about the posts given above (see Fig. 93, a, b, C, d).
  Narrow stand-strips, usually cut in a straight line; vtechenie in the neck, they end at the front bow.
  Wide rack and rack-bows cut on the bias thread. After vrachevanie in the neck they bend, forming a soft collar with a beautifully draped bow in front. Collars cut on the bias thread, plastic drape and have a more attractive shape than the collars-tape, cut in a straight line. Such collars stachivaya in the neck, not reaching the middle of the front 1 - 2cm to accommodate the bow. They are very simple in their design and processing, and the product serve as a beautiful decoration, widely applied in blouses and elegant dresses.
  Collar beyka can hardly be called a collar, it is rather the outer facing of the neck. Such collar is rather trim the neck than a collar. It can be made from basic or finishing fabrics. Tailor it for the main patterns of shelves and back, with adherence to the same direction of equity of the thread on the main parts. Possible the seam above the shoulder cuts. The line of departure bake scribbled on the front and the back. The width of the collar-bakey depends on the composite decision of finishing products.Exactly the same shape, only with no seams over the shoulder sections, can be constructed and a turn-down collar, it does not have rack, line of departure lies freely. Equity the thread can be placed in any direction.
If the equity collar thread coincides with the equity thread, passing in the middle of the back, the collar for the most part will lie on the bias thread. This collar must be cut on the neckline each side 1 cm, because when processed, it will stretch.
On the basis of collars-Beek collars are constructed with soft ruffles at the line of departure. This pattern of collar-bakey divided into equal parts, applied to the lines cut and throw it from the line of departure on the magnitude of the tails. Each reconstituted plot is approximately 8 - 10 cm.