Chapter 5. MODELING PRODUCT CASUAL RAGLAN SLEEVES AND CAP 

Products with sleeves casual Raglan circulated widely among fashion items of women's clothing. These sleeves are recommended for most silhouette forms, they are used in many product categories, used in everyday products, as well as in elegant dresses and blouses bodices with soft forms as in closed and dekolirovaniya. Sleeve Raglan widely used in raincoats and jackets.

PRODUCTS CASUAL RAGLAN

Raglan cut creates a soft rounded shoulder line visually reduces the width of the shoulders. Therefore, the most rational is the use of casual Raglan in products of a-line silhouette (narrow at the top, extended bottom). Building drawing with Raglan sleeves requires many additional calculations. The drawing of such products, the authors used a very simple and convenient method that does not require any additional complex calculations. The principle of this method of design is based on the use of drawings of the foundations 1 and 2.
In this case, used a fundamentally new design sleeveless casual Raglan by combining double seam of the top part of the sleeve with the armhole of the basic patterns of the backrest and shelves to the points where they touch (combination) PZ and P6.
Drawing patterns Raglan sleeves are easy to construct on the basis of drawings of the foundations (detachable on the waist line or shift) and double seam set-in sleeves various design method for constructive modelling. Due to the fact that the sleeve is partly cut out with the bodice, it is advisable to apply the method of combining the sleeve with the armhole at the tangent points P3 and P6, and the build process becomes much easier.
The line of the Raglan can take the most diverse forms - from the narrow Raglan-shoulder strap to the broad sloping line (from the neck point at the back and from the middle of the front on the shelf); also numerous options cut, for example sleeves, tselnokrajnie yoke of the bodice, etc.
The depth of the openings in the product casual Raglan depend on the cut of the sleeves: narrow, direct or functional.
Raglan sleeves, constructed from basics sleeveless functional products, have a soft shape in the shoulder area, a significant content and designed for the dynamics in position of the hand on the hip (slightly bent at the elbow).
Raglan sleeves, constructed on the basis of the narrow sleeves have a head with a tight fit hand. These sleeves are more practical to use in knitwear.
 

The modeling method consists in the following. Basic templates shelves and backs combine with the primary mold casting sleeves, double seam at the points P3 and P6 so that the upper part of the openings aligns with the top part of the sleeve (Fig. 56, a). Before combining the sleeve with the shelf tuck the upper part (2 - 3 cm) was transferred to armhole as functional products. The lower part of the armholes you must also adjust on the sleeve from the points P3 and P6 to the side sections. Then put a line Raglan. It can pass through any point of the neck and be of various configurations, can come out of the shoulder sections;such a cover will be called polarogram.
After applying the line of the Raglan translate every detail on tracing paper. The remainder of the Darts on the lines of the Raglan sleeves of the backrest and shelves to close and shear off (Fig. 56, b). A tuck in the main part of the backrest is distributed to land, and in the presence of the relief clean relief line.
Top tuck on the shelf can be left in the same place or to move in other slices. The most effective method of placing the Darts is the use of constructive techniques with the use of reliefs, flirts or soft design of the bodice.
To products casual Raglan sleeves are those sleeves which are cut with yoke front and back. Products can be cut at the waist line or shift in any silhouette solution. A constructive solution of the product located below the line of the yoke can be a soft, voluminous or hard. Dresses with a seam at the waist the design of the skirts, and methods of constructing their drawings can be any of the options proposed in section skirts.In the proposed embodiment, the drawing of such products is based on the pattern of the bodice is straight cut where the top tuck transferred to the waistline (Fig. 56,).
To obtain the patterns of the product Raglan yoke on the basic pattern Raglan shelves and put lines back coquettes. The yoke can be narrow (4 cm on the front and 8 cm at the back) and a wide located at the center of the chest at the level of the point P3 in the rear.
When building products reglan this option to the sleeves, in the region of the points P3 and P6 are added to the allowance for freedom of movement of the hand, equal to 1.5 - 2 see the New line of yoke length should be equal to the old (dashed line in the drawing), and start at the level of 1/2 of the width of the shelves, and ending at the level of 1/2 of the width of the back. From the points P3 and P6 line the bottom of the sleeves is unchanged.
The design of the products cut Raglan there are various options, including a combination cover of "Princess".
The principle of construction of the soft bodice is the same for products of any cut, the difference will be expressed in building models.
In order to ensure that the product was a soft, but not bulky, before dilution Assembly, or a puckered bodice a little oburevayut due to the Darts. On the back of the tuck close completely, i.e., on the value of the solution in the shoulder cut oburevayut the back from top to bottom. On the shelf in the same manner covering a portion of the tuck. Products in sizes 44 and 46 with a large filling, a tuck can be closed completely.
Then conducted a constructive simulation of the selected model.
 

To create sewing patterns blouses, shown in Fig. 57, used the basis of the product-fitting Raglan sleeve top with tuck, translated into the waist. When creating drawings of the framework solution the top Darts was partially transferred to the region of the openings (see Fig. 56, a).
Solution Darts at the waist a little large, so during the build process Assembly at a mouth of a tuck on the waist line decrease, placing her hand on one another (see Fig. 57 the shaded area on the waist line). When sewing a blouse, the cut of the neck gather the thread to its original length, which was going to build.
The dashed lines in Fig. 57 circled drawings of the foundations on which was conducted a constructive simulation (solid curves, obtained after a constructive simulation; the shaded part above the waist line indicate the value of breeding for Assembly; solid shaded part on the waist line - the value of the closed tuck).

PRODUCTS WITH CAP SLEEVES

Currently fashion offers items with a soft, full bodice. In line with this, various shapes of cut of the bodice with cap sleeves are of particular importance. They are used in many product categories products with sleeves of different widths and lengths. Strapless bodice with cap sleeves voluminous, full forms are recommended for smart products.
Depending on the purpose of the product and fabric sleeve can be with gusset or without. Gusset various shapes and sizes, usually used in products for everyday wear. Sometimes the gusset into the lower half of the sleeve. Sleeve with gusset tailor in cases when they are narrow throughout their length or they should be casting functional sleeveless with lowered hand, i.e. with slight creases under the armhole.
In elegant dresses gussets, as a rule, are absent. In such models to ensure that the dynamics of the hand creates the corresponding angle between the sleeve and the parts of the shelves and backs, contributing to the free movement of the hands in a horizontal position. In this case, the lowered hand under the armhole are formed of a soft drapery. The effect of this cut will be positive if the shape of the upper part of the product will be filled in the application gathers, pintucks and other techniques.
Construction drawing cap sleeves also proposed on the basis of drawing the basis for products with vtachnoy sleeve double seam any silhouette (straight, semi-fitted, tight) on the principle of the drawing sleeve Raglan, but with a corresponding improvement to ensure the dynamics of the hand.
Cap sleeves are not separate parts, so when creating drawings, you must include show of hands, which is achieved in two ways: straighten the sleeve to a horizontal position at the seam in the process of building and constructing gussets.
The construction of the bodice, telecronaca with sleeves are made in two main stages.
 

Stage 1 - alignment of the sleeve with the armhole. The construction of the bodice, telecronaca with sleeves, start from the back. For this pattern you must first combine the highest point of the crown of the sleeve end of the shoulder cut at the point P (Fig. 58,a). The lowest point of the top part of the sleeve falls below the armhole by 2.5 - 3 cm and are combined with a side cut at the point G.
The line connecting the point PP on the sleeve with the point PZ on the back, and points P and G are complementary, with the help of which you can get the pattern bodice with cap sleeves of different shapes.
For aligning the sleeve with the shelf (Fig. 58, b) it is necessary to equalize the side sections of the shelves and backs, and to combine the lower part of the sleeve with the point G2 located at the same distance from the top side of the slice and the point G on the back. For combining the highest point of the crown of the sleeve end of the shoulder cut at the point P2 it is necessary to lengthen the armhole by about 2 - 3 cm due to the reduction of the solution of the upper tuck.
The drawing obtained in step 1 of the build can serve as the basis for the creation of patterns of sleeves with gusset and without gusset, Raglan sleeves casual, polarella with straight lines with a large filling products and a large neckline.
 

Phase II - creation of the drawing sleeve with gusset. A feature of the drawing cap sleeves with gusset is a change in the angle of inclination of the sleeve constructed at stage 1, so that the sleeve took the form of a casting with lowered hand. For this purpose the drawings of the sleeves, shelves and back are cut on the lines PG and П2Г2 (Fig. 59) and applied to the details of the bodice under the arm; the shoulder cut open tuck to lengthen the shoulder cut (PP1 = 1.5 - 2.5 cm). Rotation of the sleeve changes the angle of the sleeve backless. Line П1Г1 across the line PSPs around the middle.
To change the angle of inclination of the sleeve shelves first call side and shoulder seams shelves and back. Solution tuck opened on the shoulder cut shelves, must be equal to the value of the solution tucks on the shoulder cut of the back, i.e. П2П4 = PP1. The side sections of the call starting from the waist line.
Then determine the position line cuts the gusset. They start from the corners between the sleeves and side sections and not cross the centerline П3П3 and П6П6, and ends at the points A1 and A, spaced from the points P3 and P6 is approximately 1/4 of the segments ПЗП3 and П6П6. With two sides of cutting lines hold the seam lines, which will be the original lines when creating drawings gussets (lines AC and AB on the shelf, А1С1 and A1B1 on the back).
The gusset may have a diamond shape. Its width depends on the setting of the sleeves to the bodice and length of the cut line.
 

Building a diamond-shaped gussets starting at the shelf, because the shelves it will be a little wider than the back, and will be able to compensate for the seam at the points A and A1 (Fig. 60, a, b). For proper construction of the gussets continue the side cut up. From point A down to it perpendicular. Get the OAB triangle with a right angle, which area is 1/4 of the gussets (Fig. 60, b).
Gussets, tselnokrajnie with the lower half of the sleeve, is used in cases when we want to avoid processing two angles or give the sleeve a more vertical position. Cut off the bottom of the sleeve will increase the angle of it without the gussets, and to avoid the need for pulling the shoulder of the cut, but also to give the sleeve a different shape and width.
In dashed lines and an А1Н1 (see Fig. 60, a, b) cut off the bottom of the sleeves and connect them with gussets at the points A and A1, C and C1.
So the gusset is not twisted outwards, the width of a lower half sleeve at the bottom (ie cut НН1) should be (Fig. 60, g) is slightly less than the width of the gusset between the points A and A1. Length of the lower halves depends on the length of the main sleeve.
A show of hands in products with cap sleeves, without gussets is achieved by the angle formed under the armhole. The greater the angle, the more formed tails at hand. Therefore, these products are recommended to only sew from light fabrics that gently fall and drape beautifully. Externally, these sleeves have a simple design; their construction required some transformation of the drawing, obtained in step 1 of the build. The principle of construction does not depend on the variation of the angle under the arm, will change only the magnitude of the cuts.
From the angle under the armhole will depend on the position and the length of the curve line that connects the sleeve to the bodice.
 

The main stages in the drawing of the bodice, telecronaca with sleeves without gussets, the following:
1. The drawing of the backrest (see Fig. 59, a) is cut along the lines PG and diluted it by the amount needed for the free show of hands.
2. Connect points G and G1 (Fig. 61, a).
3. The dashed line is carried out the bisector of the angle formed when breeding details.
4. From the point Q1 on this bisector lay cut О1О2 equal to the segment ГГ1.
5. At the point O2 raise a perpendicular bisector to the segment О1О2 and continue to the intersection with the side cut at the point G2.
6. From the point G1 to the elbow cut sleeves lay cut Г1Гз equal to the segment ГГ2.
7. Point PP of O2 and connect with a straight line and lay it cut GSOS equal to the segment Г2О2.
8. Cut О2О3 is the main while using the curved part of the lower edge of the sleeve. For its design connect the dot 2 on the side of the point O2, Oz and point 3 at the lower cut sleeve with a smooth curve line with the help of curly patterns. The position of the points 2, 3 can be freely chosen depending on the depth of the gusset.
In the drawing shelves bodice (Fig. 61, b) produce the same build as on the drawing of the back of the bodice.