Chapter 5. DESIGN SKIRTS 

Dress, cut at the waist line is created on the basis of a bodice and skirt. Most skirts can be not only a part of the dress, but also as a separate item of clothing and have an independent profile.
The silhouette of the skirt are divided into straight, flared and narrowed.
Each silhouette has a number of options in the average or a more acute version. Standard and unobtrusive is the average kind of performance. But sometimes, to emphasize the individuality of the pieces you need to enhance the sharpness of the silhouette. It largely manifests itself in fancy clothes.
When designing a skirt you must first choose a silhouette to determine the completeness of their figure and then decide which model is the most fashionable at this point in time.
Straight skirt and its variants emphasize the slender figure with narrow hips. At the bottom of it is wider than the hips on a 5 - 8 cm.
Skirt, flared, looks most effectively on women with slim waist and wide hips. The expansion of the skirt is obtained by the transfer of the Darts from waist line to hem line.
The silhouette of the skirt, narrowed down (a form of "barrel"), the most spectacular evening gowns. These skirts sew mainly of hard tissue. In the average performance is slightly tapered skirt with gathers at the waist instead of Darts.
All the silhouettes of the skirts and their variants are based on drawing a straight skirt the method of structural modeling. For the skirt, if it is part of the dress must meet the following criteria: the length of the waist line of the skirt should be equal to the length of the waist line of the bodice (one seam allowance to the waistline on free fit); tuck into the skirt needs waist combined with pleats in the bodice; when moving recesses or reliefs on the move bodice Darts and skirt (not to the detriment of design).
In the event of a discrepancy between the lengths of lines waist bodice and skirt with high waist skirts equalize waist bodice, increasing or decreasing the solution tucks on the skirt. The side sections of the skirt is also fitted to the side sections of the bodice, without upsetting the balance of the skirt and vertical seams.
When you extend a straight skirt, tight in the hips, it is recommended to begin extending below the hips, in this case, the cutting line is obtained with a slight bend.
The design of the recesses, their length and the solution is different for each figure. Darts for rounded thighs wider and shorter than flat. Tuck with great solution is placed on the rear panel regardless polnocnej group figures. If the solution tucks exceeds 4 cm, it is divided into two (figures 4-th polnocnej group). In any polnocnej group, the largest tuck falls on the side of the skirt.

STRAIGHT SKIRTS

To direct include all skirts, the silhouette of which resembles a rectangle. They are narrow and extended, with one or more seams, vents, pleats, ruching, front closure or hinged, with a variety of articulation vertically and horizontally. To direct the skirts are wide and circular, pleated or pleated in a straight line. Such skirt is constantly in fashion because they are comfortable and beautiful.

  Straight skirt with pleats and vents. The skirt pattern with one-way pleat in front or back or with vented hem build on the drawing fundamentals straight skirt (Fig. 99, a), adding a seam allowance to the depth of the folds or slots (model 1).
  For a skirt with inverted pleat cut out a strip of cloth, whose width is equal to twice the width of a unilateral folds. Strip length under the fold (Fig. 99, b) may be less than the length of the skirt and overlap the open part of the pleats at 2 - 4 cm (model 2).

  Skirts with one or two slots in the side seams (Fig. 100) model also on the drawing basics skirt, adding a seam allowance to one or two slots with a minimum width of 6 see Sometimes, instead of slots in the side seams make the cuts back to back. The width of the seam allowance of this skirt from top to bottom equal to 1.5 cm In places incisions for their design lay the finishing line. The width of the lines on the slot must be equal to the width of the lines at the bottom of the skirt. If the allowance for the slot is insufficient to lay the finishing line, it increases.
  Skirt with pleats on the front or rear panel tuck must be combined with pleats. If the stitching of the folds, combined with the tucks, increases the allowance for pleats at the level of the waist line and elongates the inner fold of the pleats. Lengthening lines the internal bend leads to wyvernian folds. To shorten and straighten the inner part of the folds is possible two methods: either boarding allowance under the fold at the waist, or the introduction of a tuck on the inside of the folds (Fig. 101).

  Skirts in a circular fold, relating to direct, have the below a modest increase by 0.3 - 0.5 cm on each side. This extension facilitates the proper position of the folds in the dynamics, but does not translate to a different skirt silhouette, as the main lines of each illusory folds seem to be parallel from top to bottom. The value of the extension at the bottom depends on the distance between the visible parts of the folds. The smaller the distance, the less the extension on the bottom.
When building small folds solution Darts at the waist are placed equally among all folds. The excess fabric at the waist is distributed when boarding the corsage. Great fit fabric make in the locations of the Darts (for the design of convex places of the figure).
To build any skirts pleated it is necessary to make the following preliminary calculation:
to calculate the number of pleats on the complete circumference of the hips with allowance for free customized fit (X);
determine the fabric consumption for internal (invisible) part of the folds (Y);
calculate total fabric consumption for a product without a seam (Z).
Thus, we have the following formula: Z = X + Y
To determine the three unknown to know the following quantities: the measure of the circumference of the hips (=100 cm); the allowance to the circumference of the hips (POB = 5 cm); width of one pleat (Sscl = 3.5 cm) and depth of pleats at the hip line (Gccl = 7 cm).
As a result of the calculation of the total length of the fabric on the pleated skirt without a seam amounted to 315 cm in the line of the hip. Skirt length individual.
Modelling skirts in a circular fold is conducted in three stages:

build a rectangle on the drawing basics skirt overlapping the side cuts of thigh (Fig. 102, a).
layout folds the rectangle and the placement of the Darts (Fig. 102, b);.
the construction of the folds (Fig. 102,).
Fold lines should have to go through cue points of the folds on the hips, drawn together at the waist line. The narrowing of the pleats extends the allowance under the fold, and that reduces the solution Darts at the waist line. The remaining solution is placed tucks on the skirt in places corresponding to the greatest convexity of the shape. After you build the folds of the hem and the waist level on the visible parts of the folds.

  Skirts straight on the belt. The purpose of the yoke on the skirt to ensure a tight fit of the skirt at the hips without the use of recesses in its upper part. The purpose of the yoke is enhanced if the lower part of the skirt is pleated, pleated, ruching look. In this case, the yoke is not only a structural element but also helps to reduce the fabric consumption for the product. The yoke allows for more diverse design skirt and give a sporty touch. It largely depends on the shape of the skirt, shaped yoke, its width and location. Flirty must be no longer than tuck.The construction of the belt shown in the example of a straight skirt. The principle of construction coquettes common for skirts of all shapes, as the yoke on the skirt needs to cover only the waist part of the figure. The build starts with the application of the Basque line on the main pattern (Fig. 103, a). The Basque line is transferred to a blank sheet of paper, tuck chop off, cut off the yoke (Fig. 103, b).If the parties to the Darts and convex when they are closed they overlap each other, it is necessary to make payment in the side sections or to connect them on the convex areas, and the remaining small solution Darts at the waist line sent to the landing on the corsage.
If the yoke is narrow, part of the tuck remains on the main part of the skirt, it is either distributed at the gate on the line of primaqiune yoke or partially transferred to the side seams or hem line. The choice of the design depends on the fabric, the shape of the skirt and features of the figure.

SKIRTS, FLARED

How to extend the skirts hem is very diverse: with folds, wedges, Godet, transfer the Darts from waist line to hem line, with cut in a circle, etc. In the skirt in a circular fold of the extended silhouette is obtained when the extension folds is 1.5 cm and more at any distance between them, i.e. when the visible side of folds takes a conical shape. When you build skirts with several inverted pleats or one-way additional technique is the extension of the skirt hem due to the partial transfer of the solution tucks from the waist line to hem line (Fig.104).
Extension skirts can be made from the wedges in a straight line or wedges of Gode, to which is added the desired amount of expansion from the minimum, equal to 6 cm, and a maximum of ("the bell"). Expansion in the skirts of the wedges starting from the hip line or a little above the knees. The value of the extension at the bottom, in large measure, due to the individuality of figure and sharpness of the silhouette decision.
Sometimes the extension skirts on the bottom, obtained by folds and wedges of Gode, I prefer cutting on the bias thread. The skirt is cut on the bias thread fits the shape in the hips without Darts or extra seams.

The pattern for the skirt, cut out on the bias of the filament shown in Fig. 105. This skirt model on the drawing basics straight skirt by transfer of the Darts from waist line to hem line. The build starts with the rear cloth of the skirt (Fig. 105, a). The pattern the straight skirt is applied to cut lines from the hem to the tuck end. For applying lines, cut the pattern and close the tuck, saliva their pins. The magnitude of solutions of Darts will reveal the solutions of tails at the bottom of the skirt.
The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 105, b) when you move the Darts are cut and diluted so that its lateral cut overlay details (see dashed line in Fig. 105, a) are parallel to the side cut of the cloth back. Built in this position, the side sections will be steep and will not impair the balance of the product. The skirt is well-fitting shape in the hips and beautiful to drape. This pattern can be used for cutting skirts common thread, only in this case it is necessary to compensate for the lost value from the time of Darts with their combination (see hatched areas in Fig.105, a). Compensation is produced due to lateral slices. The second option without compensation can produce a combination of Darts at the touch points of their in convex areas, and the remaining solution in the region of the waist to spread when landing on the corsage.
The skirt extended in such a way that will provide the basis for building some of the variants of extended skirts: full skirts with the Assembly or pleats at the waist and skirt big flare - the sun.

The pleated skirt. Method of construction of this skirt is very simple: the skirt pattern is cut from the bottom hem to the waist line according to the planned lines and pushing the pieces to the desired width of the folds or assemblies in projected areas (Fig. 106).

Skirt "the sun". In the skirt line of the middle of the front cloth needs to be placed along the warp threads and the side cut along the weft thread. The middle 1/4 of the pattern must be installed at an angle of 45° (Fig. 107 see dashed line). The rest of the sectors are distributed evenly in each quarter of the circle. Constructed in such a way skirt most accurately reflects the individual characteristics of the figure. The basis pattern is the waist line with its characteristic features, built on the foundations of drawing straight skirt; in this case, the shape of the waist line does not coincide with a circle, built with the help of a compass.
The pattern this skirt can be used for pleating the cone (skirt with pleats ripple).

SKIRTS NARROWED 

Skirts narrowed, not always comfortable to wear, so in the side seams sometimes make one or two cuts.
The waist of these skirts is made according to different assemblies, arranged around or plots; short inverted pleats radiating to the hips and asymmetrical folds in a fan or Bush.
The folds and drape, usually used for evening toilets. Each of these skirts requires independent construction. The simplest option in such skirts is a skirt with slight ruching at the waist. It is simple in design and very common among cotton goods summer clothes.
  Skirt short soft inverted pleats.This skirt model on the drawing basics straight skirt (Fig. 108). The pleats lay in the locations of the Darts. To increase the allowance for the folds of the skirt at the waist line expand by way of breeding. To do this, from the center of the tuck to the bottom conduct line. It cut the pattern and pushing the upper part of the skirt to the desired value. Then lay the folds so that they dispersed to the hip line, creating the shape of a barrel. The width of the skirt at the hip line left unchanged or slightly increase.
  A draped skirt from the waist line. The hardest part of the design of the skirts, narrowed - is the creation of asymmetrical folds, assemblies, and all kinds of draperies. In creating such design involved not only the waistline, but and Darts. They can be transferred to a new position specified by the model. One of the options shown in Fig. 109.
At the basic straight skirt pattern is applied to the location of the drapery.
Drape, as a rule, is combined with the Darts or the end of the line clearance draping down to the tuck end. Then tuck close and shear off, and the solution open it in a line draped skirt. For applying lines draping the pattern and cut apart. Tuck on the extended sections split off. Then encircle all the lines and cut out a new pattern. Jelatelno the direction of the folds, the amount of the allowance for the upper cut with their grinding and tuck to test not only on the paper pattern, but on a piece of dummy fabric.

VARIETIES OF MODELS BASED ON A STRAIGHT SKIRT

Using the drawing basics straight skirt, without additional calculations to construct skirts of different options with minimum expenses of time (Fig. 110). Each option in turn is the basis for the creation of patterns to a variety of models.
Models 1, 2, 3 presents skirts with ruffles in different widths. These skirts can be without tucks at the waist, but only with a small Assembly line protecive zone. The width at the hip line increase by 3 - 5 cm, evenly distributing this amount between the front and rear panels.
In Fig. 110 lines of primaqiune ruffles in skirts models 1, 2, 3 and shows the construction lines of the wedge to the skirt of the model 4. Legend lines of each model are shown in the sketches of skirts.
Ruffles cut straight, oblique thread and circumference. For ruffles, cut in a circle, calculate length and radius, respectively, the number of circles. The total length of the inner circles must be equal to the length of the line which is stitched to the ruffle. Line primaqiune have ruffles from the waist at different distances. The first line of ruffles is always at a distance of 16 - 18cm from waist line (depending on growth).
The lower part of the skirt under the ruffles can be straight. In this case, for convenience in operation the side seams of the skirt make the cuts.
Another kind of skirt based on a pattern straight line is a circle skirt apron with wedges in the side seams (model 4).
A skirt perform the following:
on the main pattern straight long skirt cause the cutting line of the wedge; these lines go from the side of the slice above a line knee length 8 - 10 cm and bottom converge to the center, forming the illusion of an apron;
for lines cut off wedge;
cut a wedge (triangle) divide the beams from the top into pieces.

these rays cut the wedge to the top and throw them to the desired size of the tails. In the example (Fig. 111) - 4 the distance between them on the tails equal to 12 cm.
A method of constructing a wedge on the front and rear panels of the skirt the same. Equity the thread on the wedge is placed in any direction. Classic is the option, when the lobe filament located along the side of the slice.
Swing skirt is built on the principle of skirts that existed in the old Russian belt clothing - ponev, as well as in the Ukrainian national clothes. Skirts were often made of the swing and put on the dress shirt length is below the knee.
Swing skirt models 5 and b, shown in Fig. 110, sew on the waist or gather at the waist with elastic band.
Form-fitting they are very diverse (straight cut with Darts on the waist or the fit of the soft tissues instead of Darts, with braid at the waist or on the belt, three-dimensional form, which can rise above the chest in the form of sundresses) and can be used in combination with other products. They can be worn over dresses for every day, with blouses and vests made of the material of the skirt; with more ornate gowns with embroidery; with a variety of dresses for vacation, and you can also use the beach ensembles.
The particular practical application have skirts made of thick fabric with the smell. The smell can be located anywhere on the skirt. While constructing this skirt, increase the length of the cloth. Model skirt in any silhouette. It can be on the belt and hook on the buttons at the waist on the principle of biased side of the clasp or belt with long ends, which prodelyvat in the loop of the upper belt, wrap around waist and tie.