Chapter b. DESIGN PELERIN 

Capes are prevalent in today's clothing. They come in different lengths and widths, hinged and closed. Depending on the shape and the fabrics used they are used as independent clothing and yet can be additions to outdoor products, both everyday and dressy.
The Chapter illustrates the construction drawings Pelerin different length, density fit, removable and tselnokrajnie the bodice for a different range of goods.

Based on the drawing of a small Cape (Fig. 112) you can build a drawing of the Cape with smocking at the neck, collar jacket with pleats stacked on the neck, and other types of Pelerin.

LITTLE DRAPE

Small adjacent the drape (Fig. 112) can be constructed on the basis of a drawing of a bodice with sleeves cut Raglan sleeves or bodice with cap sleeves and gusset.
Sleeve Raglan is applied to the armhole so that the distance between the same points PZ and P6 was equivalent to 1.5 - 3 cm In the upper part of the drape follows the contour of the sleeve. The length of the individual capes for each figure, on average it is equal to 2/3 of the measurements of the length of the back to the waist line. The bottom line draw a smooth curve. The neck is made according to the desire - collar, a hood or without a hood with a cutout of any shape.

CAPES FANTASIA ON A STITCHED BELT

Two capes fantasy "the sun" and "wing" are based on drawing fundamentals of small capes method of rearing details on certain areas to get the full circle (Fig. 113). For fastening at the bodice draped (unfastened) parts Cape build straps (hidden or visible) on the basis of drawing shelves and back.
Drape the sun. Patterns shelves and backrests are laid out as shown in Fig. 113. On the waist line building zone. Darts at the waist closed. The line of neck and concealed shoulder straps is applied, starting from the waist shelves. The middle part of the backrest (she's back spaghetti strap) tailor together with a belt. The shoulder sections of the straps sew the neckline together with the draped part of the Cape process rolikam to the front of the belt. Front drape with invisible part sew straps to the folds (the shaded area in Fig. 113). The crease includes a part of the solution of the upper tuck.Belt on the side of cut to grind, and the front fastens with buttons. The width of the belt in finished form 10, see

Drape "wing" (Fig. 114). The wing is part of a semicircle cut along the lines of the straps (the circle's middle line the middle shelves and back). Line the straps and belt for this capes on basic drawing is applied are the same as for capes "sun". Drape of the Cape (wings) on either side on the back and on the front pritachivajut to the visible straps. The front straps connect at the butt and pritachivajut to the belt. The middle of the front belt a back belt ties with a bow. The straps do not reach the middle of the back on the width of the site (approximately 2 - 3 cm on each side of the center).

LONG CAPES

Long drape requires a different approach in the design. It should be comfortable, but should not increase the volume of the figure. Visual perception of the width of the product largely depends on the width of the shoulder girdle, so when you create designs long Pelerin preferably the shoulder belt does not increase. The drawings show two options long Pelerin, based on the double seam bodice with set-in sleeve: straight sideways with capes and capes, extended downwards, at the top of the yoke.

  Video drape with sideways. The basic method of construction drawing capes is the combination of the sleeve with the armhole at the tangent points P3 and P6 (Fig. 115), and the direction of the side seams correspond to the direction of the middle seam of the respective halves of the sleeve. The shelf and the back of the capes at the top, correspond to the parts shelves and the back of the drawing fundamentals with slight modifications. The shelf extended armhole by reducing the solution of the upper tuck. On the back of the point P3 of 1.5 - 2 cm right reserved. From the points PZ and P6 with minor extension to the bottom held straight lines of stitches.
The flank is constructed on the basis of the double seam of the sleeve, combined in the upper part at the seam.
From points PP' and R6' conducted straight lines of stitches parallel to the middle lines of stitches of the sleeve. On the top part of the sleeve at an equal distance from the middle laid a short tuck for clearance barrel in the upper part due to the length of the top part of the sleeve. The point of PZ' and R6' can be transferred into 1.5 - 2 cm from the previous point to ensure freedom of movement.

  Drape, flared (Fig. 116). Drape the yoke in the upper part is constructed on the basis capes with sideways. Flank from the highest point divided in half, and each half is attached to the shelf and back. On the printed pattern lines from the shelves and cut back yoke. Tucks on the yoke closed. The remaining solution top the darted main part of the shelves is partially transferred down to expand, and partly replaced by a crease (see the shaded area). The bottom drape is extended by way of breeding parts of plots are shown in Fig. 116.
The extension on the bottom can be from part circle to full.