Chapter 7. Design of HOODS 

IN the fashion of last years, the hoods are prominent in summer, beach, evening and other types of clothing. 
The shape of the hoods is very diverse. The basis for the construction of hoods various types are drawings of hood classic shape and hood-collar. 
To build the hood requires the following measurements: 
the As - girth of head; 
R - rising; 
VSH.t - height of neck point; 
Whol - head height; 
Swiss.h - the width of the top of the head. 
VGA = R - HS.t;
Swiss.h = 0.25 As. 

HOOD CLASSIC SHAPE

Hoods, and collars, built in the drawing of the neck product. Form line vrachevanie hood in the neck line and the neck one and the . Therefore, when making drawings of the hoods you need to use patterns of the articles, in the neck which they will vacany.

The drawing of the hood take the templates shelves and backless. Tuck from the shoulder cut of the back is transferred to the neckline. Connect patterns at the shoulder sections, combining point of the base of the neck on the front and the back (Fig. 117). Point a in the drawing - middle of hood at neckline backless, point B - point lower front corner of the hood.
For determining the position of the bottom point of the front corner of the hood from the point neck on the line mid front raise up perpendicular to this line and lay on it 4 cm to the left. Then, using this point downhold the line, parallel to the middle of the front of the product, and lay on her 4 - 5 cm get the point B. 
From the point A on the line mid-back delay period equal to Ugal (head height). 
A - 1 = Vgal = (R - HS.t) + PV.goal = (164 - 141) + 4 = 27 cm, 
where p is the growth; 
VSH.t - height of neck point; 
PV.goal allowance to the height of the head.
Through the obtained point to the left 1 hold the horizontal and lay on it a segment equal to 0.5 Swiss.h (point 2). 
1 - 2 = 0,5 Swiss.h = 0,5 x 14.1 = 7 cm 
From the same point 1 lay down cut 1 - 3: 
1 - 3 = 1/3 (As - PV.goal) = 1/3 (56,6 + 4) = 20,1 see
point 3 to the left, hold, horizontal, on which lay cut 3 to 4: 
3 - 4 = 1 - 3 + 1 = 20,1 + 1 = 21,1 see 
Points 4 and 2 connect a straight line, relative to which the stand is built the left part of the hood 2 - 1 - 3 - 4.
Practically this can be done, peregnul a sheet of paper on lines 2 - 4 and pericolo previously received the right part of the hood. 
Line 1A - 3A extend to the left by 4 cm and connect the obtained point of the smooth line by point B. 
During the processing of a hood in the front edge prodelyvat elastic band. 
The seam on the hood can be positioned in the middle of the top or back. The direction of the grain lines depend on the pattern tissue and directions of the NAP. 
In the presence of a lining in the hood it cut in the same patterns, which tailor the hood.
Hood classic shapes is the basis to build a hood with seams, forming the occipital part with the tight fit of the hood to the head of the hood with the seam in the middle of the hood to the chin. 

A HOOD WITH A SEAM IN THE MIDDLE 

In the drawing, the hood classic shapes from points 1 and 1A (Fig. 118) set aside for 10 see a Tuck from the edge of the neck stand in the middle seam. The newly obtained points connect smooth lines.

HOOD WITH A TIGHT FIT TO THE HEAD

The drawing of such a hood on a basic drawing through the point 2 (Fig. 119) draw lines parallel to the upper and middle occipital parts of the hood. Point 2 is the center of these lines. Side of hood at point 2 a little scroogled and put control marks on the distance from the point 2, is equal to 8 - 10 cm For these marks when sewing connect the side of the hood from the back. The middle part of the hood needs to be solid. The excess middle part after the fillet side part removed. 
Tuck seam combined with the connection of the middle part of the hood side.
For a tighter fit of the hood to the head can reduce the side part of the hood, and the length of the middle part to adjust the length of the line primaqiune her to the side parts (shown in dashed line). 

THE HOOD LENGTH TO THE CHIN 

In the drawing, the hood classic form of the line 3 to 4 (Fig. 120) continue to the middle of the front of the hood. From the received point down lay a straight segment 4A - 5: 
4A - 5 = 0.1 As + 3 = 0.1 x 56,6 + 3 = 8,6 see 
From point 5 to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line 4A - 5 and lay it cut 5 - b: 
5 - 6 = 0.1 As = 0.1 x 56,6 = 5.6 cm,
where As the circumference of your head.
Point 4A and b, connect a smooth line. Front corner of hood at point B transferred to 2 - 3 cm up. Then spend the cap and newly acquired point B connected to point b in a straight line. 
For design clasp adds the necessary allowance for the clasp. 

HOOD-COLLAR

This hood (Fig. 121) build tselnokrajnimi with shelf product. For the drawing of a hood-collar to encircle the paper patterns of the shelves. The curve of the back stack so that the top of the neck shelves and backwere combined and to the shoulder cut of the back was a continuation of the shoulder cut the shelves. The middle of the back should lie parallel to the middle front. Tuck from the shoulder cut of the back transferred to cut of the neck back and encircle him. From the middle line of the neck back up in a straight line lay the cut is equal to the measure of the head height plus the seam allowance (point 1), 
Ugol = 27 - 30 cm
Through the obtained point 1 to the right and left hold the horizontal and lay on her left 3 cm (point 2). 
From point 2 to the right lay the cut equal to the width of the top of the head (point 3): 
2 W = SW.h = 25 - 30 cm
resulting in 3 putting the cut side. 
The angle at point 2 can be left unchanged, or rounded as desired.