Chapter 8. CONSTRUCTING AND CONSTRUCTIVE MODELLING OF PANTS 

Pants are one of the rational types of clothes, their rationality and attracted the attention of women. Currently, pants is assigned to a large place in the wardrobe of women's pantsuits, skirts, pants, sets forhome and holidays, consisting of long pants, Trouser length for the knee Bermudas, short - shorts, tracksuits, etc.
Pants good to be on the women sports physique the difference in the girths of the chest and hips not more than 8 cm, according to the new typology (OST-17-326 - 74) . This value characterizes the shape of the 1st and 2nd fittings. 

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING of LONG PANTS 

For the drawing of long pants, you need the following measurements, see: 
poluobhvat waist St............................................ 37 
poluobhvat hips SB........................................... 50 
distance from the waist line side to the floor, DRC....... 105,9 (106) 
distance from the waist line in front to the floor of the DS.p.. 103,9 (104)
the height of the desired length pleats VP.with.................... 73,7 (74)

  the Front half of the pants (Fig. 122, a). On a sheet of paper the size of 50Х120 cm at a distance of 10 cm from the top right edge (from point O) is carried out to the left horizontal line. This will be the waist line. Through the point on this line is carried out vertical line length of 30 cm (point A1). 
To the left of the point On the horizontal delay line, equal to the width of the front halves of trousers (point O1). 
OO1 = 1/2, SB = 1/2 x 50 = 25 cm, the 
Front and rear halves of the pants can be the same width on the bottom.
Through the point O1 carried down the vertical line. On the vertical, drawn through the point O1, lay down the cut is equal to the distance from waist line to the hip line (point a): 
О1А = Sat 2/5 = 2/5 x 50 = 20 see 
Through the point And hold right horizontal line, it will be the hips. 
To determine the position of the line of step from point A down the vertical delay line, equal to 1/3 О1А of the segment (point b). 
AB = 1/3 О1А = 1/3 x 20 = 6,7 see 
Through the dot To the left horizontal hold and lay on her cut. 1/10 Sat and put a point S. 
of the sun = Sat 1/10 = 1/10 x 50 = 5 cm.
Connect points C and A (line bow) curved line. A horizontal line SV, continue to the right until the intersection with the line side of the slice and put the point B1. The segment CB1 divide in half and put a point B2. Through the point B2 is carried out a vertical line up and down, which is the bend of the front halves of trousers. Point the intersection of this line and the waist line denoted by the letter O2. 
From the point O2 to bottom vertically lay the desired length of the pants to the bottom. 
В2Н = DS.p - 2 = 104 - 2 = 102 cm - 
  Width of the pants at the bottom is not a constant, it changes depending on the fashion. Conditionally the width of the pants at the bottom set to 26 see This value divided in half and lay horizontally on both sides from point N. 
НН1 = НН2 = 13 cm. 
Point H1 and connect the auxiliary straight line and check the length trousers by step (EP.K). If the point is too high or too low, it can be moved and accordingly to change a curved line connecting points C and A (line bow). 
The position of a line knee length determine, aside from the H point up the vertical segment equal to half the entire length of the pants minus 1/10 of this length. 
NK = 1/2 О2Н - 1/10 О2Н = 1/2 x 102 - 1/10 x 102 = 40,8 cm 
Through the point To hold the horizontal to the right and to the left. On this horizontal lay the cut equal to the width of the pants at knee level. The width of the pants depends mostly on fashion. Points K1 and K2 on horizontally spaced from auxiliary lines Н1С and Н2В1 0.5 - 1.5 cm 
  Stepper cut of the trousers is carried out, connecting the point N1 and the straight line K1 and the point K1 and is a smooth concave line. 
  Side cut the front halves of trousers is carried out by connecting the dots D2 and K2 in a straight line and the point K2, B1, and A1 is a smooth line. Then from a point On the left lay 1 - 1.5 cm and put a point O3, which connect smoothly from the A1. 
Line front the cut of the pants is different depending on difference measurements of hip and waist. As a rule in the pants of sizes 44 - 48 front section is moved to the right by 1 - 1.5 cm in size 50 pants front cut does not move and trousers 52 size and above the front section is moved to the left from point O1 to 1 - 1.5 cm (see Fig. 122 and 123, a).
To construct the Darts at the front half of the pants from point O2 delay value of the solution tucks evenlyin each direction. A tuck can be replaced with a hollow, having its the right or left of the fold line of the trousers, depending on the direction autoimune folds. Solution front tuck is 3 see Second tuck a between the first lateral slice. Solution it is equal to 1.5 - 3 cm depending on the difference of the measurements of hip and waist. When the small value of this difference, especially in products of large size, this tuck may not be.
The rear half of the pants (Fig. 122, b). The drawing of the rear halves of the pants building in the drawing, the front half (see the dashed lines). To build a medium cut rear halves of the pants from points In respectively the left and right horizontal delay cut the CB, obtain the point C1 and the OT: CC1 = ВВ3 = SV. 
Point C1 at the end of the middle cut of the pants lowered to 0.7 cm and put a point C2. 
From point B3 raise up perpendicular to the line В3В and continue to the waist line. From the received point on the waist line to the right lay 1 - 1.5 cm and put a point O4. Line a medium slice pants is through a point located on the perpendicular, restored from a point B3, at a distance from it equal to the 2/3 cut БО4, and a point lying on the bisector of the angle WSB at a distance equal to 3 cm from the point B3, then parallel to the line of SS1 and then to point C2. 
On the hip line of the front half from the point A1 to the right lay a segment equal to the segment SV, and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = SV. 
Through the point A2 have been holding up the line parallel to the side cut the front halves of trousers.
Through the knee rear half extend to 1 - 1.5 cm on both sides from the contour of the front halves of trousers and put the points K3 and K4. 
  Stepper cut of the trousers is carried out, coupling points K3 and D1 by a straight line and the points K3 and C2 is a smooth concave line. 
The stepper cut line of the rear halves of the pants is shorter than the front. The missing value will have to obtain by stretching the fabric on this station for wet-heat processing. 

Equity the thread on the rear half of the pants has the same direction as on front. In the direction of this thread (Fig. 123, a) iron the fold.
For building Darts on the back half of the pants line of the upper edge divided into three equal parts (Fig. 123, b).
The length of the Darts on 9 - 13 see master tuck is closer to the line side of the cut, the solution of this tuck to 2 - 3 cm To determine the the magnitude of the solution for more tuck, you need to measure the width patterns for the waist line from the obtained value, subtract the measure of poluobhvat waist. For example, the measured value is 39 cm, the measure of poluobhvat the waist is 37 cm, then the solution will be equal to the tuck 39 - 37 = 2 cm.
For a shape with a wide waist extra tuck do not. In the case necessary to increase or decrease the length of the waist by reducing or increase the convexity of the lateral cut.
The main building drawing pants is over. Now you need to perform additional construction for trousers, tight-fitting thigh (Fig. 123,). On a clean sheet of paper transfer the drawing, the upper part of the rear halves of the pants with point B on the line of the middle slice in the thigh area and transfer point B1 from the drawing the front halves of trousers. Connect these points bar line, cut the pattern along this line and expand it into 2 - 3 cm line a medium slice. Then they outline the new contours of the patterns, aligningthe line of the middle and lateral slices.
Trouser pockets have different, and pockets of skirts; they can be Welt and patch. The width of the burlap Welt pockets, you can limit the fold line. Length burlap is longer than the pocket for 10 - 12 cm (Fig. 123, g). 

SKINNY PANTS

To the basic pattern of the pants to the pants, narrowed down, not changing the size of the product in the waist and hips, (Fig. 124) to reduce the width of the pants on the bottom equally on each side from the points H1 and N2, and then 1/2 this value to reduce the width of the product line knee points K1 and K2. Using the newly obtained points conduct direct lines and smoothly continue to the points S2 and A2. Similar changes produce and on the front half of the pants. 

WIDE-LEG PANTS

To get wide-leg trousers, the basic pattern of the pants extend across length. Patterns of front and rear halves are cut on the fold line and push both parts to obtain the desired width of the pants to the hips. 
Sets the desired width of the trousers through the knee and hem (using a method of constructing narrow pants). If the extension of the pants significant it is necessary to increase the solution Darts at the waist and hold new the line cuts the front and rear halves of the pants, shifting to the left of point C and C2, 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 125). 

SHORTS

Patterns of the shorts can be obtained on the basis of the patterns of pants, subtract their length. The minimum length of shorts determines the distance from the line step up to the line bottom, equal to 4 cm hem Line of the shorts is applied first on the front half trousers (Fig. 126, a), then measure the length of the side cut front halves and this value lay at the side of the rear halves (Fig. 12B, 6). In the same way equalizes the stepper slices short (SN = С2'H2').
Tight fit shorts at the hip line it is necessary to extend the middle seam of the rear halves. On line medium slice shorts at a distance of 3 cm above the point B, the curve with fixed pin and turn it so that the point C2' is dropped to 3 cm relatively original position. Conduct a new line of medium cut line short rear halves. 

CULOTTES

Patterns skort can be obtained using the patterns of the skirt and method of construction drawing the trousers in the bow. Can be taken straight skirt patterns, flared with pleats or without, but always with the seams in the middle on the front and rear panels. 

The classical model are divided skirts with inverted pleats in the middle front and back of the cloth 
(Fig. 127). 
  Build the front of the skort. On the paper is transferred the patterns of the front cloth of the skirt (see Fig. 127). To the middle of the front cloth add seam allowance to the width of the folds is not less than 12 cm (see the shaded area). Then, hold the line, parallel to the line of mid front panel. Transfer points A, b and C from the drawing the front halves of trousers and dots And',' and'. From the point With' left lay 1.5 cm and put a point D. Through the obtained point A', C' and D hold the line of the cut bow front cloth skort. 
  Building a back half of a skort. On a clean sheet of paper transfer the pattern of the rear cloth skirts.Transfer the position of the points A', In',' templates front halves skort and put the points A", b" and C". To the left of the dot In the" lay cut In S' two times, plus 1.5 cm and put a point D1. Through the obtainedpoint hold the line medium cut rear cloth skirts-trousers. It is parallel to the line of the middle of the rear cloth skirts, then deviates by 1.5 - 2 cm to the left. Connect both of the cloth at the points D and D1 and carried out the curved line of the middle slice, as shown in the drawing.

VARIETIES of MODELS of TROUSERS ON the BASIS of DRAWING FUNDAMENTALS of LONG PANTS 

Pic. 128 is a good example of maximum use of the main patterns to create patterns of a number of goods with shortest time of their production. 
In Fig. 128 bold solid lines indicate the pattern of the pants, straight-leg silhouette slightly extended downwards. The drawing of such patterns use measurements specific figure (or table of measurements. 2 and 3) and calculation drawing basics pants normal (see Fig. 122). Side and step cuts draw straight lines.
Extended pants shown in Fig. 128, have a stitched waistband. 1/2 of the width of the banded zone (1.5 - 3 cm) shorten top of the front and rear halves of the pants. For obtaining a pattern of extended pants one rectification sections not enough, as this constructive technique allows to extend pants only by their edges. To get round pants uniform extension, closed partially or fully tuck from belt and carry them to the bottom line (see hatched areas in Fig. 128). On the front half of the pants tuck solution is reduced by 1/3, andthe remaining 2/3 of the solution, transferred to the side of the slice.
On the rear half of the pants tuck 1 transferred into a medium cut; tuck 2 partially transferred to the lateral cut, 1/3 of the solution - the extension of the pants on the bottom, and the remaining solution is distributed at the gate on the line protecive zone. 
This drawing was the basis for the creation of patterns of different options pants: cuffed - model 1,"Parachutist" model 2, the pants at the knee (Bermuda) - model 3 and shorts-"lanterns" - 4 model. 
Extension of short"lantern" at the bottom line achieved by wedges, utchanah in the side seams.
Legend lines of each pattern are shown in Fig. 128 about drawing the corresponding model.