The STUDY of BODY SIZE (ANTHROPOMETRY) 

For the production of clothing need to know not only the structure of the human body, but also its size. 
This is achieved by conducting mass of anthropological measurements of population and the subsequent grouping of the figures on the typical size and shape (dimensional anthropological standardization). One of the main tasks of the anthropological standardization is to represent the diversity of the anthropological composition of the population by a limited number of types (standards). This is necessary in order not to complicate the mass production of articles of personal use.
As a result of work performed by anthropologists V. V. Bunak, L. P. Nikolaev, M. V. Ignatiev, P. I. Zenkevich, P. N. Bashkirov, etc., proven ability to develop anthropological dimension standards tailored to the needs of the population.
The most complete study of the body size of the population of the Soviet Union held in 1956 - 1961 research Institute of anthropology of Moscow state University.
More than 80 geographic areas of the Soviet Union have been measured more than 100 thousand people - men, women and children. On the basis of processing the statistical material of selected types of figures created dimensional anthropological standards and scales of distribution of size and height. 
Work on improving the standards of the Institute of anthropology and TSNIISHP continue. 

Modern methods of anthropological measurements 

Fig. 1-8. The main backsight (anthropometric) points of the human body:
1 - apical (highest point of the head); 2 - kozelkova (lying on the upper edge of the tragus of the ear); 3 - the neck (spinous process of the 7th cervical vertebra); 4 - upper-sternum (in the recess of the jugular notch); 5 - mid-sternum (in the middle line of sternum at level of 4th rib); 5 - shoulder (most protruding in the direction of point to the lateral edge of the acromial process of the scapula); 7 - beam (the upper point of the head radius); 5 - scalloping (the most prominent point on the side of the iliac crest); 9 - styloid process (the lowest point of the radius from the thumb);10, the first joint of the thumb; 11 - verhneportovaya (the highest point of the inner edge of the tibia); 12 - nizhneportovaya (internal condyle)

In order to study the shape and sizes complex shapes, which is the human body, it is necessary to find the position of the relatively large number of points of its surface in a common rectangular coordinate system in space. This would require a large investment of time and the use of sophisticated measuring equipment. Therefore, practically determines the position on the surface of the human body not all, but only some, the most characteristic (backsight) point and line. In anthropology measurements are carried out on the so-called anthropometric points.
The anthropometric points (Fig. 1-8) correspond to an explicit and easily palpable formations of the skeleton - ends of bone growths, rough spots, bumps, etc. or precisely delineated boundaries on the soft tissues.
To explore body size using a variety of measurements performed on the surface of the body arc in projection on a vertical or horizontal plane of projection. Thus, the dimensional characteristics of the human body is given in the form of a number of separate dimensions, called the dimensional characteristics.
All dimensional signs are used to construct drawings of clothing items can be divided into five groups: loops (perimeters), longitudinal (length), transverse (width) diameters and projection sizes. 
Obratnye, transverse and longitudinal dimensions defined by the surface of the body, measure fabric measuring tape (Fig. 1-9, a). The tape should fit to the body, but not to deform it. The longitudinal dimensions along the vertical axis of the body define, in projection onto a vertical plane and measure metal portable anthropometer (Fig. 1-9, b).
The diameters measured by stout pair of compasses (Fig. 1-9,) or the top rod anthropometer with two lines. 
Dimensions which determine the depth curves of the spine, measured by anthropometry or two mutually perpendicular lines. 
Since changes in posture affect the value of body size, strictly monitored, so that measurement was always made in the same position. Measured should stand straight, but without tension, so that the chest is slightly protruded, the back was straightened, straightened hands with outstretched fingers touched the outermost points of the hips and from here went steeply down.
When measuring height the head should be in a position to kozelkova point of the ear and the lower edge of the orbit was situated on the same horizontal. 
At anthropological survey measurements are performed on a naked body (men in speedos, women in bra and underwear) and without shoes.
When using anthropometric dimension of signs for constructing clothing made certain amendments (see below). 

Characteristics of the main measurement 

 Obratnye measurement (Fig. 1-10) define the perimeters of the human body, and when designing clothing, the width of the product in different areas. They are produced at the base of the neck (neck circumference - Osh) and the most depressed or protruding parts of the body: bust - Og, waist - circumference of the buttocks - OYA. On the extremities of the smallest girths are measured in places least covered with muscles: circumference of the wrist - ASAP, circumference above the ankles (ankle) is Held, the circumference of the knee is OK and girth under knee - Op.to, the highest in the field of development of muscles, the shoulder girth - hip girth - the girth of the lower leg (calf) - OI and. 
 neck Circumference Osh is measured at the base of the neck. Back tape its lower edge is superimposed over the spinous process of the 7th cervical vertebra, and side and front and passes through the base of the neck (at the front above the jugular notch of the sternum). 
There are several dimensions of chest: Oh, Oh, Oh, ОгIV. 
 Bust first Og - tape is overlaid on the shoulder, on the back is horizontal with the top edge touching the rear corners of the armpits. Coming out from under the armpits, the tape is closed at the front in women above the base of the breast, men - at level of mid-sternum point. 
 Chest girth second Or measure like Og, but the front ribbon passes at women through the protruding point of the breast, men using liner point. 
In studies 1957 - ' 60 in women was not Og and Og. 
 Chest girth third Og measured in a horizontal plane, the front ribbon passes through the protruding point of the breast. 
 Chest fourth ОгIV measured only in women under the breast glands in a horizontal plane. 
 Waist girth is measured From the horizontal plane through the most depressed part of the side walls of the body. 
 The girth of the buttocks Oja is measured in the horizontal plane at the outermost points of the buttocks. When measuring the girth of buttocks taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen, the tape is closed at the front line, which is projected through a sheet of cardboard the most protruding point of the abdomen. 
 The shoulder girth of Op measured in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the humerus so that the strip touches the upper edge of the rear angle of the armpit at freely lowered hand. 
 The circumference of the wrist , OSAP measure in place of articulation of the brush with the arm above the styloid process. 
 Hip girth About the measured in a horizontal plane at the level of the desired length of fold. 
 Girth knee OK measured in a horizontal plane through the center of the patella (verhneportovaya point). The measurement is performed in the standing position with the leg straightened. 
 Circumference of the ankle . measured in a horizontal plane above the inner condyles.
 The transverse dimension (width) specify the width of individual parts of the body, and when you design clothes on the corresponding parts: chest width - SHG, the width of the back - Loop, the distance between the protruding points of the chest - CG. The lateral size is the size length shoulder slope DP.(it is sometimes inaccurately called the width of the shoulder of the slope SHP). 
 The width of the back of SHS measured in the horizontal plane of the blades between the rear corners of the armpits. 
 The width of the chest SHG is measured in a horizontal plane between the front angles of armpits. The tape passes directly over the line of measurement Eg. 
 The length of the shoulder slope DP.with measure from the base of the neck (approximately in the middle of the distance between the 7th cervical vertebra and verkhnegolyginsky point) to the "shoulder" point. 
 The distance between the protruding points of the chest (center of chest), the TT is measured in a straight line between the most protruding point of the breast. 
 Longitudinal measurement (length) determine the length of the body and its separate parts: total body length (height) of R, the distance from 7th cervical vertebra to the floor of the Sunday schools.p knee - DC, to the back waist of Dt.with to front waist - Dt.p, the height of the openings in the back - Ot.p, the height of the front arm openings - VP.p, the height of the shoulder slash - EP.to, arm length, Etc. 
 Growth R is measured by anthropometer as projection on the vertical distance from the apical point of the head to the floor. 
All measurements of the lengths of the individual parts of the trunk and limbs is produced by antropometria centimeter or plain ribbon. 
 The height of the 7th cervical vertebra VSH.p is measured from the neck point to the floor. The height of the 7th cervical vertebra to the knee DC measured similarly to the previous size, only to the center of the kneecaps. 
 The length of the back to the waist line Dt.with measure from the neck point to the waist line. The tape passes through the spine. 
 Length to the waist line in front of Dt.p is measured from the neck point at the base of the neck, then through protruding point of the chest to the waist line. 
 The height of the openings in the back of the Ot.p is measured from the neck point along the spine to the level of the first and second straps of the chest.
 The height of the openings in the front VP.p is measured from the neck point at the base of the neck, then through the clavicle parallel to the midline of the body to the first chest. 
 The chest height Sh measured from the neck point at the base of the neck and on to the exposed points of the breast in women or peripapillary points in men. 
To determine the position of the shoulder point CNIISHP proposed measurement - the height of the shoulder slash EP.to.
 Height shoulder oblique EP.it is measured with measuring tape at the shortest distance from the point of intersection of the line of the waist with the spine through the scapula to the "shoulder" point. 
 The length of the arm measure at the lowered hand from the "shoulder" of a point on the outer surface of the arm and forearm to the 1st joint of the thumb DRS or until the end of the 3rd finger DRP.
Direct measurement of leg length is impossible, since the femoral head is hidden under a layer of muscle and fat. Therefore, measurements of the lower body is usually carried out from the waist: the distance from waist to floor front, DSP., from the waist to the knee - Dt.to the distance from waist line to floor at the side of DSB. In addition, the distance is measured from the junction of the legs with the torso (the desired length of folds) at the inner side of the foot to the floor, called the height of the desired length pleats VP.with.
 Diameters used to determine the ratio of the sizes of the individual parts of the body when building plaster standards and mannequins model figures and clothes (about the standards and the dummies will be told later). Diameters are usually measured in the same planes as the loops, in two mutually perpendicular directions (transverse and anterior-posterior) at the level of the neck, chest, waist and buttocks. 
 Projection size the same as the diameters required for the characteristics of body shapes and build standards typical sculptural shapes and mannequins: tall shoulders EP, I and II, the recess of the waist, the convexity of the back, deep neck and deep back between the shoulder blades (totaling the value of the position of the PC case), etc. 
of the Individual projection measurements are directly used in some systems for the design drawing details of clothing, for example, the position of the body and shoulder height. 
 The position of the body PC measure two mutually perpendicular horizontal lines from the cervical point to the vertical plane tangent to protruding points of shoulder blades.
 Shoulder height VP is determined using anthropometry or two mutually perpendicular lines as the difference between the levels of neck and shoulder points. 
The number of dimension of features used to characterize body size, depends on their purpose. When anthropometric measurements for a complete and comprehensive dimensional characteristics of a body of 60 - 80 measurements. In the practice of design typically use 10 - 20 measurements.