The shape and size of clothing manufactured sewing industry, needs to match the shape and size of the human body. Therefore, it is necessary to know the structure and size of the human body, to define relationships between dimensions, to identify the types of constitutions. These topics are science, anatomy and anthropology.
The skeleton
Shape and dimensions of the human body depend primarily on the size and structure of the skeleton (Fig. 1-1) consisting of the skull, spine, chest, and two pairs of limbs.
The spine which supports the whole body and defines the basic features of its form and dimensions, consists of 33 - 34 vertebrae. The spine has five regions: cervical, thoracic, lumbar, sacral, and coccygeal (Fig. 1-2).
Cervical spine (1) consists of seven vertebrae. Of the cervical vertebrae is the largest of the latter, located on the border of the junction of the neck with the trunk, the 7th cervical vertebra. Due to the fact that the spinous process of the 7th cervical vertebra is on the neck under the skin, it serves as a starting point to determine the number of body size (length to the waist line, height, chest, length, knee-length, neck girth, etc.).
Thoracic spine (2) consists of twelve vertebrae, to which are attached 12 pairs of ribs, forming together with breast bone chest. Seven upper ribs the anterior cartilaginous ends are attached to the sternum. In the middle of the upper edge of the sternum there is a deepening - jugular notch. In the middle of her digitalnoj line is verchagina point which is anthropometric point, which are oriented in the measurement of neck girth, as well as in determining the depth of the neck.
The shape and size of the chest depends on the age and gender of the person. In women the thorax usually narrower and shorter than in men. The perimeter of the thorax is mainly determined by the width of the product.
Lumbar spine (3) has five vertebrae. The area of the lumbar located between the 12th pair of ribs and the pelvis, is called the waist. The waist level at the same body length can be varied due to the different inclination of ribs of the chest and its size.
The sacral region (4) sacral vertebrae after 16 years begin to knit and 25 years form one fused bone of the sacrum.
Coccygeal division (5) consists of 4 vertebrae 5копчиковых. They represent an underdeveloped vertebrae, which often merge into a single bone, the coccyx.
The spine has an S-shaped bend. In the thoracic region and the sacrum its curves directed convex back (kyphosis) and cervical and lumbar bulge forward (lordosis). The curves of the spine are associated with the vertical position of the human body. They also have a protective value, weakening the shaking of the trunk during walking and different shocks. The curves of the spine largely determines the posture of the person. In women, the curves of the spine is usually sharper than the men.
The skeleton of the upper limb consists of the shoulder girdle and free limb (arm).
To shoulder belt includes scapula and clavicle. Blade (see Fig. 1-1) is a flat triangular bone located in the chest or back. The scapula close to the ribs for 2 to the 8th ribs and forming on the surface of the back bulge, which have a significant effect on the design of the backless clothing. On the upper outer end of the scapula is the acromion process, which extends slightly from the shoulder joint and can be a probe under the skin. The most protruding in the direction of the point of the acromion process at its lower end is anthropometric point (shoulder point).The shoulder girdle is not closed behind, as the blades are not interconnected. Front of the clavicle articulate with the breast bone (sternum - 3). Scapula and clavicle broadens the shoulders and change the shape of the chest.
The free upper extremity is divided into 3 sections: shoulder, forearm and brush.
The shoulder consists of one humerus. The upper end of the humerus connects to the scapula by means of a multi-axis shoulder joint, the most movable in the human skeleton. The shoulder joint is possible a movement to allow flexion and extension, abduction hands to the side, bringing them closer to the body and circular movements. This should be considered when determining the allowances to a width of the openings and sleeves.
The structure of the forearm consists of two bones: radius, thumb, and the ulnar side of the little finger. Shoulder and forearm connect to the elbow joint. In the elbow joint flexor and extensor of possible movement about a transverse axis and also rotational movement of the arm around its longitudinal axis.
The hand is connected with the bones of the forearm of the beam-carpal joint, which provides rotation and abduction of the hand. The upper section of the brush is called the wrist, the circumference determines the width of the sleeve at the bottom.
At freely lowered hand humerus and the bones of the forearm at the level of the elbow to form an obtuse angle, equal to an average of 170' (Fig. 1-3, a). This should be considered when designing the sleeve, especially in outerwear. The sleeve usually has a straight shape, and to some extent follows the shape of the hand (Fig. 1-3, b).
Skeleton of lower limb consists of a pelvic girdle (pelvis) and two free limbs.
The pelvic girdle is a closed bony ring (Fig. 1-4), limited in front and laterally by the two pelvic bones and rear - lower spine (sacrum, coccyx). The pelvic bone, in turn, are composed of several fused bones: Ilium (1), lonna (2), and ischium (3). Female pelvis (see Fig. 1-4, b) the form differs from the male (see Fig. 1-4, a): it is lower and wider, his bones are thinner and the wings of the iliac bones sharper unfolded.
Free lower limb consist of three parts: the thigh (femur), the leg and foot. The femur articulates with the pelvic bone by the hip joint. This joint is very important for body movements, it can be freely rotated and torso.
The lower leg consists of two bones: tibia and fibula. The knee joint, which articulates through the Shin bone with the thigh, the largest and most complex in structure. It allows you to bend and straighten the leg and make small rotational movements with a bent knee.
The stack consists of large numbers of small bones, the study of which is not of interest for design, and therefore not considered here.
Muscle
Form of the human body depends not only on the structure of the skeleton, but also from the United with a skeleton muscle (Fig. 1-5) (muscle development), and values of irouleguy.
The shape of the muscles can be long, most often located on the limbs, wide - body, and short - between the individual vertebrae and ribs. There are about 400 different muscles. Each muscle begins and ends with a short or a long tendon by which it is attached to the bones. All our movements are the result of the contraction of certain muscle groups. The following are the most superficial major muscles that define the shape of the body (see Fig. 1-5).
The muscles of the neck - sternoclavicular-liner (1). The place of attachment of the clavicle, the upper edge of the breast bone and the temporal bone of the skull. With the help of these muscles are the turns and head tilts to the side, and with simultaneous contraction of muscles on the left and right side, the head tilts forward and down.
The muscles of the chest - the pectoralis major muscle (2) and serrated muscle (8). The pectoralis major is a powerful fan-shaped muscle located in the upper part of the chest. It is attached at one end to the sternum and the humerus. The pectoralis major muscle lowers the arms and a fixed arm contributes to inhale, lifting rib. The pectoralis major muscle largely determines the topography of the chest and forms the anterior wall of the axilla.
Gear muscle located on the side wall of the chest. It starts with the teeth from the upper nine ribs and attaches to the blade, locking it and pulling forward. Gear muscle forms the inner wall of the axilla.
The abdominal muscles - rectus abdominis and oblique abdominal muscle. Rectus abdominis (4) in the form of broad muscle tape comes from cartilage of 5th, 6th and 7th ribs to the pubic bone and the tendon has three jumpers expressions on the surface of the abdomen. Muscle lowers the chest down. Oblique abdominal muscle (5) covers the front and lateral surface of the abdomen and lower thorax. With the reduction of oblique abdominal muscles on the one hand there is a rotation of the torso, with the simultaneous contraction of muscles on the left and right sides of the torso forward.
The muscles of the back and the back of the neck usually in anatomy are described together, since many of them moving from one body part to another. Trapezius muscle (b) occupies the whole upper part of the back from the neck to the waist and has the shape of an irregular quadrangle. The fibres of this muscle are going in different directions, so it has different functions in different parts: in the upper part of the tilting of the head and neck back, in the middle - pulling blades to the rear surface of the chest at the bottom - pulling the scapula down. With the reduction of all divisions of the trapezius muscle to the scapula together.The development of the trapezius muscle affects the shape and the perimeter of the neck, as well as the degree of protrusion of the blades on the surface of the back.
Broad muscle (7) is the most extensive muscle in the body. It takes up the entire lower and lateral part of the back, starting from the spine in the middle part of the chest down to the lumbar, sacral region and the crests of the iliac bones, the second end is attached to the upper part of the humerus. Broad muscle of the back together with the pectoralis major muscle lowers down your raised hand. In addition, this muscle a few pulls hand back. Broad muscle restricts the armpit from behind.
Muscles of the shoulder girdle and free upper limb - deltoid (8), biceps (9), and triceps (10).
The deltoid muscle runs from clavicle and scapula to the upper third of the humerus. Covering the shoulder joint, it largely determines the shape of the shoulder part of the torso. The deltoid muscle produces abduction of the arm in the direction to a horizontal position.
Muscles of the shoulder Department hands have a spindle shape. Almost all of them are attached at one end to the bones of the forearm produce flexion and extension of the forearm at the elbow joint. On the front of the shoulder are muscles that serve to bend hands on the back for extension. Two-headed muscle of the arm protrudes sharply under the skin during contraction. It serves to bend the arm and rotate outward (supination). One end of the muscle starts from the shoulder blade, the other is attached to the radius.The triceps brachii is attached one end of one long head, the scapula and two short - to the humerus, and the second end to the ulna. Muscle is used for extension of the forearm at the elbow joint, and rotation of the hand inward (pronation).
The muscles of the pelvis and lower extremities - gluteus Maximus (11), tailoring (12), triceps tibia (18). the gluteus Maximus, the largest muscle in our body starts from the sacrum, coccyx and iliac crest, around the powerful formation of the hip joint and attaches to the back surface of the femur. The gluteus Maximus extends the thigh at the hip joint. The degree of development of this muscle depends on the external shape of the body in the pelvis and the size of the figure, as the girth of the buttocks.The Sartorius muscle is the longest in our body (about 50 cm), starts from the top of the iliac crest, then located on the front of the thigh, then the spiral goes to the inside and attaches to the tibia. The Sartorius muscle, together with other muscle flexes the thigh and lower leg, and when bent the lower leg turns inward. Triceps located on the back side of the leg and protruding calves.This muscle produces plantar flexion of the foot at the ankle joint (sometimes called the "muscle ballerina") and is crucial during walking, running, jumping, etc.
In addition to these muscles, there are a number of muscles that define the shape of the lower extremities. These include the quadriceps extensor muscle of the tibia (14), the two-headed thigh muscle (15), bending the leg at the knee, the anterior tibial muscle (16), extending the foot, and others.
Subcutaneous fat layer
Subcutaneous fat layer is of great importance for plasticity of the human body. It smooths the protrusions of bones, relief of muscles, gives the body the roundness. The amount of subcutaneous fat and its distribution are dependent on a number of factors, primarily gender and age of the person. Sometimes a preferential deposition of fat in women are: breast area, buttocks and upper section of thighs. Men have a typical place of fat deposition - the lower part of the anterior abdominal wall. In most cases, the amount of body fat increases with age.Excessive fat deposition describes a painful condition of the body is called obesity, obesity. The appearance of such people varies considerably - waist disappears, the chest and abdomen increase in volume and sharply protrude or droop in the form of large fat folds. With these changes, the figures cannot be ignored when designing clothes.
The structure of the skin
Among the functions of the skin covering the body is to protect the body from external influences. The skin is also a sensory organ, and through it we feel touch, pain, cold, heat, etc. the Skin plays an important role in thermoregulation. Through it, the evaporation of moisture of the body. The outer epithelial layer of skin (epidermis) consists of stratified squamous epithelium, which on the surface is subjected to keratinization. The middle layer of the skin, more powerful, consists of dense fibrous connective tissue of the skin (dermis).In this layer are located the end of nerve fibers, sebaceous and sweat glands, it penetrate numerous blood and lymphatic vessels. The inner layer of the skin - subcutaneous fat - consists of loose connective tissue rich in fat. Subcutaneous fat protects the body from excessive heat loss as it has low thermal conductivity.
The skin is very sensitive to the slightest temperature changes due to the presence of huge number of nerve endings, thermal receptors. Heat receptors in the mucosa and skin, there are more than 30 thousand, and receptors cold - about 250 thousand Receptors of heat and cold participate in the regulation of body temperature.So, when irritation of the receptors of cold narrows the blood vessels located in the skin, and therefore, the delay of heat in the body, and in irritation of receptors of heat, the reverse phenomenon - the expansion of blood vessels and, consequently, the heat loss to the environment. It is known that about 90% of the heat given by the body, excreted through the skin.
Blood circulation and sweating
All tissues and organs of our body is a network of blood vessels. Blood moves through the arteries, capillaries and veins. Most large capillary channel, which is 500 times more than the channel of the arteries. The number of capillaries in our body reaches several tens of millions. And if most of the major blood vessels is usually well protected, capillaries, penetrating the thick muscles and skin of the body, is constantly exposed to external influences, including the pressure from contact with clothing. This pressure should be minimal so as not to disturb the circulation in the capillaries.The blood in the capillaries moves very slowly, in 500 - 1000 times slower than in the aorta where blood velocity is 0.5 m/sec. A special work to study the effect of pressure garments on human health have not been conducted. Held in 1935 in Moscow state University under the guidance of Professor G. F. Ivanova study refer only to shoes, but represent known interest for design.
In determining the admissible values of pressure of clothing on the body must also take into account the possibility of compression of the lymphatic vessels. The number of lymphatic vessels in our body many times the number of blood, and the speed of movement of lymph in 5 - 10 times less speed of blood flow in the smallest capillaries. Especially dangerous is the compression of the lymph nodes, play an important role in the functioning of the body. Large concentrations of lymph nodes (packets) stored in surface regions of the body: cervical, axillary and inguinal.
One of the regulators of heat is sweating. Perspiration in the body is through the sweat glands, which is a tube, the end of which is twisted into a ball, braided network of blood vessels and are supplied with the terminations of nerve fibers. The skin is very rich in sweat glands, there are 2 - 3 million, but they are distributed unevenly throughout the body. Especially a lot of sweat glands on the flexor surfaces of the extremities, the armpits, on the palms.Depending on the condition of the body, the ambient temperature, the work performed, the number of allocated sweat subject to significant fluctuations. In temperate climates it is an average of 1 l per day, with a hot climate is increased to 5 l and more.
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