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Home » Articles » Design basics clothing

Dimensional anthropological standards

Development dimensional standards of the adult population of the USSR 

, the Development of dimensional typology and the dimensional construction of anthropological standards for adults produced by the research Institute of anthropology of Moscow state University on the basis of processing materials of mass of anthropological measurements taken in 1956 - 1958

The shape and size of the body is determined primarily by gender and age of the person, therefore when conducting anthropometric studies of people can be divided into groups and subgroups according to these characteristics. Groups: adult men and adult women (aged 20 to 59 years). Each group was divided into three subgroups by age: younger 20 - 29 years, the average 30 - 44 year and older 45 - 59 years.

Age limits the measurements of adults (20 - 59 years) selected on the basis of considerations of biological order. 20 years basically ends the growth of body in length and is made of the morphological type of an adult. After the age of 60 years, there are signs of age-related changes in body shape. However, the stability of the chosen age period is understood only as a relative and conditional.

The lateral dimensions, largely associated with the structure of the skeleton, age change little: the increase after 40 years is somewhat reduced: women have on average 2 cm, men - at 3.75 cm, which is 1.5 - 2.0% of the value of dimensional characteristic; the length of the limb remains practically constant. 

At the same time, transverse and obratnye body size, depends not only on the size of the skeleton, but also on the development of subcutaneous fat, significantly change with age (table. 1-7).

As can be seen from the table, especially a large age variations in waist circumference, the average value of this dimension is increasing in women of the senior group of more than 12 cm, greater than 2 σ of this trait in the younger group. Average quadratic deviation obratnykh dimensional signs in the older age group than in younger.

A significant age variability in the main loops is evident in the distributions of these characteristics constructed for the entire group of women. Distribution detect significant deviations from normal (Fig. 1-18). This is due to the heterogeneity of the groups according to the age and nature of the dimensional characteristic. 

The deviation of the distribution of the main obratnykh dimensional signs (1) normal (2) significantly complicated the conduct of anthropological standardization, as makes it impossible to use estimation methods developed for normal distribution.

The analysis showed that the curves of the distributions of each obratnogo characteristic (1) can be decomposed by experiment into two components, the normal distribution curves, one of which is close to the distribution curve of the younger group (20 to 29 years old) and the second distribution curve to the older group (45 - 59) (Fig. 1-18 and 1-19).

The numerical value for the younger and older age groups is equal to 0,6 : 0,4.

In the middle age group (30 - 44 years) distribution obratnykh dimensional characteristics similar to the distribution in the total (20 - 59 years) group of women. Thus it includes the types of figures characteristic of both younger and older group in the same ratio as they are included in the total group, i.e. 0,6:0,4.

The presence of two different types of female figures: one is typical for younger and another for older age groups is confirmed by data on the coefficients of pair correlation subordinates dimensional signs with a leading dimensional feature - the bust. As a rule, the older age group the correlation coefficients obratnykh and transverse dimensions is higher than in younger (table. 1-8). 

The existence of two types of female figures, largely different from each other, it was repeatedly noted designers and practitioners.

Hence the necessity of building an independent system of standards for younger and older groups separately.

The types of shapes are determined by the combination of four leading characteristics. The values of the leading dimension of the features that characterize the type, should be chosen so that they led to the greatest overall satisfaction for all dimensional signs. For small correlation coefficients between the first two leading signs - bust girth and height (in men 0,377, women - 0,153) accept them as independent from each other variables.In this case, the values leading characteristics for each determined by dividing the magnitude of the variability in the number of options, taken with an interval equal to the interval of indifference.

The scope of variability of the size characteristic is determined depending on the desired degree of satisfaction. If satisfaction is close to 100% (99.97%), a scale variation within ±3σ from M, where M is the arithmetic average dimension of the characteristic, and σ - standard deviation. 

Values of the main statistical parameters of M and σ the leading dimension characteristics for the younger and older groups of adult men and women are given in table. 1-9.

In order to cover the whole variability of the leading dimensional signs based on accepted intervals of indifference: growth - 6 cm, and the girth of the chest, waist and buttocks - 4 cm - in each age group are required to allocate approximately 260 variants of sizes. In each embodiment, the chest would need to have 2 - 3 options on the waist, and each option according to the waist circumference of at least three variants on the circumference of the buttocks. 

An example of such a breakdown for the growth of 167 cm and chest girth 92 cm are shown in table. 1-10.

This number of options would preclude the manufacture of garments, especially the implementation of rosmarinovoe range in cutting and preparatory workshops. No less difficulties have arisen in the implementation of clothing that has such a large number of rooms.

Therefore, for practical purposes we have developed a unified type system for the entire adult population (20 - 59 years) by summing weighted in the ratio of 0.6 : 0.4 distributions of the younger and older groups. In addition, the proposed instead of separate options at the girth of waist and buttocks to take their combination, i.e. as if to fix every variant of the waist only one value of the girth of the buttocks. The combination of the size of girth of the waist and buttocks called completeness. In each embodiment, the chest was now only 3 options for completeness: small (M), medium () and large (B) (table. 1-11).

Number of dimension options thus reduced almost five times, but the direct satisfaction of these size options is also reduced.

Therefore, in addition to the direct satisfaction, these signs of fullness had to take into account additional and indirect satisfaction (see scheme Fig. 1-20). 

 Video satisfaction takes into account the deviation from the mean value M characteristic dimension of the waist or buttocks within +-2 cm (i.e., within the interval of indifference, equal to 4 cm). 

 Additional satisfaction is considered to be in the range of +-1 cm from the border of direct satisfaction.

The introduction of additional satisfaction in the waist and buttocks practically means an extension of the interval of indifference on these grounds from 4 to 6 cm (see table. 1-11). This is possible because the accuracy of fitting products according to the girths of the waist, buttocks and in many cases less than the bust. 

 Indirect satisfaction takes into account the variance of 2 cm down from the borders for more satisfaction.

Indirect satisfaction means that the product is suitable for the first two major signs: growth and bust and one of the signs of fullness: waist or buttocks, but another feature of completeness. 

As a result, total satisfaction (direct+additional+indirect) of 70 - 80%. 

The total number of combinations of size, growth and fullness (of separatoritem), giving the greatest satisfaction is the women's group 91 men - 84.



Category: Design basics clothing | Added by: 27.10.2017
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