Making PATTERNS of DETAIL at the TOP, LINING, PADS AND AUXILIARY PATTERNS

 

making patterns top

 

Patterns the top (Fig. V-39) is obtained by copying parts (lines, cuts, Darts pockets, loops, polustanok, the bend of the lapel, nasechek, etc.) with drawing* heavy paper or cardboard using cutter.

To the contours of the copied parts give allowances for seams, hem the bottom of the parts, the shrinkage of fabrics and orebotse (allowances for alignment of the slices during processing).

The patterns applied to lines of nominal directions and permissible deviations of the warp threads or the weft in accordance with the technical specifications for cutting of these parts [34]. On one of the items (usually on the shelf) make a list (inventory) of all of the detail at the top. After checking the inventory of patterns under the patterns put the stamp with the inscription "tested" and date. On all sides of the patterns put the stamp of OTK.

The value of the allowances on the hem of bottom of products coats, suits and dresses groups - 3 - 5 see the models of dresses, flared, allowance may be lower (1.5 and 3.0 cm).

Stock on the hem of bottom of pants (without cuffs) - 4,0 - 5,0 cm, with double cuffs the double cuff is equal to the width in finished form plus 1 see

the Value of allowances on the hem of bottom of sleeves is 3.5 - 4.0 cm, but may be less (1,5 - 3,0 cm).

The value of allowances for fabric shrinkage in length in practice taken to be 1 - 1,5% depending on the percentage of tissue shrinkage in length**.

The value of allowances on rabotku (cutting) of the parts is 0.5 - 1.5 cm.

Patterns are the top collars build on the patterns of povorotnikov***, adding allowances for leave, the tips and the rack. The value of allowances depends on the type of stitching on the fly and tissue thickness (Fig. V-39, a).

Patterns cutting podborov build by copying the pre-edge of the neck, the lapel, the side of the shelves and adding allowances for planting podborov in length and width and rounding of the sides of podborany (see Fig. V-39, b). Internal cut potrebnogo of podborta first applied to the drawing of the shelves in accordance with its position in the finished product, produce a template and then deploy podbot respect to the line of the edge of the Board and lapel in the ways described previously.

In the men's products with an open closure (jacket, coat) the width of podborov at the shoulder sections are equal for all sizes of 4.0 cm on the waist line - 10 - 11 see Internal podborta cut from the shoulder cut to the waist line hold a smooth line so that the cut defended from the crease line of the lapel is not less than 4 - 5 cm From waist to bottom inner section of podborta carried out in a straight line.

In the women's products with an open closure (jacket, coat) the width of podborta at the level of the shoulder sections can be reduced to 2 cm.

In the products with the closed clasp to the top of podbot at the top make considerably narrower than in products with an open closure, and spend it not from the shoulder sections and neck so that he came no less than 3 to 4 cm beyond the inner edge of the loops.

Patterns of small details on the top (valves, leaf, patch pockets, strap, belt, codpiece, Odeska, etc.) built taking into account allowances for seams, the hem, the fit for the education of Kant, etc. to the dimensions of the parts.

Dimensions of small parts ready to determine, using the contours of the main parts in accordance with drawing or sample model.

The length of obrazek and Podzorov do at 4 - 5 cm longer than the length of the slit pocket, the width of obrazek 4 - 5 cm, width Podzorov 6 - 7 cm Width obcutek for Welt pockets in the frame is taken 3 to 4 cm depending on the width of the frame.

 

Making patterns lining

 

Patterns lining (Fig. V-40) are made on the patterns of the top to fit podborta ready and allowances needed to eliminate inaccuracies arising from the connection of the upper with the lining and stretch fabrics at the top when worn, the shrinkage of the lining in the course of its processing, dry cleaning, etc.

Allowances to the width of the lining given only to the top (to the waist line), where the product during wear more, change their size and in the manufacture of products is not ensured high precision of the connection top with lining.

In Fig. V-40 shows an example of design patterns lining (shown in thick lines) based on the patterns of the top (shown in thin lines).

In products extended downward, and with unfastened lining the bottom curves of parts of the lining do have patterns of detail at the top.

In the men's products by the middle of the back lining except for on the seam allowance, give an additional allowance for the longitudinal fold, is equal to 1.5 - 2 see

If the patterns are the top of the tuck, then do them and on the patterns lining. The direction of the Darts on the lining can be same as tucks on the patterns of top.

Patterns lining the sleeves is recommended to build, with the front seam line of the front roll, which provides the desired shape of the upper half without pulling the front of the slicer (see Fig. V-40). The lower section of the patterns lining the sleeves have a line of bending of the bottom of the sleeves. Patterns lining small parts (valves, leaf, patch pockets, tabs, Pat, cuffs, etc.) also build on the patterns top of these items. The dimensions of the patterns lining the small details that make smaller sizes of patterns top-width edges.

Podzorov patterns of tissue lining for the side and internal pockets built in the same way as the valances of fabrics at the top with an additional allowance of width 0.7 cm for the hem when nastraivanii them on the burlap.

The warp threads on the patterns of parts of the lining should match the warp threads of detail at the top, with the exception of patterns of lining the valves and leaves the pockets, tabs, obrazek and the leaf of lining, internal pockets, etc., in which the warp threads pass along the details.

 

Making patterns parts gaskets

 

Patterns of parts of the side strips, shims, collar, bottom of sleeves, slots, etc. are made on the patterns of top with matching allowances to their slices. The value of allowances to take, based on the percentage of shrinkage of the parts of the strips during processing, the value of landing in the connection detail at the top (when stitch lapels, lower collars, etc.).

The patterns of the linings in the collars and lapels of fabrics with adhesive coating manufactured without seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar and grinding the side.

Solutions of Darts in patterns of side strips make equal to the solutions of Darts on patterns of top of the or slightly more (1 - 2cm), which is especially needed if the patterns of the top projected sutivana to fit the convexity of the chest.

Products in the men's Darts at the side strip is directed from the slices at the arm openings, the neck, the inner cutoff of the strip and of the waist line.

In the women's products top tuck usually sent from a shoulder cut, in some cases, it is the same as the patterns of top. The ends of the Darts in all cases directed towards the center of convexity of the breast. The side Darts draw both straight and smooth curved lines. For example, side tucks running from the shoulder slices, arrange smooth concave lines. For the best fit of the shape of the Darts in the detail strip of a jacket sometimes do in a broken line. Example design patterns of the parts of the strips is given in Fig. V-41.

In the women's and children's outerwear, soft forms, as well as the goods without lining the side strip is made from a single layer. The products lined it extends across the width of the chest and comes on 3 - 5 cm for line widths of openings. Products in the unlined internal cutoff coincides with the internal cut podborta or is separated from it by 1 - 2 cm in the direction of the Board.

To give a more stable form (elasticity, hardness) side seal to men's products do layered. In addition to the main strip put a shoulder pad, the hair plate, column, summary, shim under the hinges and in the lapel. In the side strips of fabrics with weft, braided hair, instead of shoulder pads and hair plate put the second layer of the same strip or nonwoven. The patterns of these parts are made on the patterns of the main parts of the side strips by applying to it the outlines of these parts as they are connected (Fig. V-41, a).

The contours of the patterns shoulder pads at the shoulder cut, the armhole, the neckline (on a plot length of 5 - 6 cm) and an internal cut (the length of 6 - 7 cm) should be matched with cuts patterns the main part of the side strip. The lower section of the shoulder pads do oval (Fig. V-41, a).

Hair plate located at a distance of 8 - 10 cm from the shoulder cut, 2 - 3 cm from the crease line of the lapel, armholes**** and inner cut 4 to 5 cm from the waist line. Length of the hair column 23 - 25 cm, width 5 cm Have it in the middle of the hair plate width. Width summary 2 - 2.5 cm, length equal to the perimeter of the side and bottom of the hair plate.

The lower and side sections of the second layer of the strip of fabric with a weft, braided hair (instead of hair) plate shall overlap the slices of the hair plate not less than 1 - 1.5 cm, and cuts: neck, armhole and shoulder, must match the slices of the main strip.

Shim under the hinges put only in products with a blanket stitch loops. Sometimes it is done with a spacer in the lapel. Top inside the cut strip should extend beyond the fold line of the lapel on the 2 - 3 cm down from the side of the cut at 7 - 8 cm Length of strip under the loop is equal to the entire length of the side strip or comes over the top and bottom hinges not less than 3 to 4 cm

Strip to the bottom of the sleeves are made on the patterns of the parts of the sleeve combined with front seam. Its width for all sizes is 7cm, length is equal to the entire width of the sleeve at the bottom.

Patterns are the top of the shoulder overlays are made on the patterns of the top shelves and backs with a combined shoulder seam. Length (through the openings) and the width a of the model.

 

Construction of the auxiliary (utility) patterns

 

Auxiliary patterns are made on the patterns of the top and clarify the process of sample making in the development of design curves (Fig. V-42). Patterns for trimming collars, lapels and collars are made with maximum precision, based on its size in finished form.

In determining the size of the patterns to trim the bottom of the collar connected to the collar at the seam leaving itagiba, it is necessary to consider the thickness of the layer of top fabric and in the processing of collar and side seam obraznym - width of Kant.

In the manufacture of patterns for trimming collars and lapels in products with projected stygiana from the lapel angle sutivana on the patterns the top is closed, since Omelko and trimming lapels and collars performed after the wet-heat treatment. The construction of this mold is shown in Fig. V-42.

Utility templates for almalki and trimming the bottom of the product (Fig. V-42, a) is manufactured by overlaying patterns of top of the shelves and backs to the cardboard with the length of the side sections on the width side seams. If the bottom line turns out not smooth, at the same time specify the lower sections of the curves of the top shelves and back and utility templates.

To utility patterns provide the necessary accuracy of the applied lines, they are made so that when nemelka their cuts coincided with the most important sections of details. For example, in the manufacture of patterns for namely side pocket upper edge must coincide with the shoulder cut neckline patterns shelves, and the side cut with the side cut part of the armhole. The contours of the utility curves for namely top tuck on the shelf limit cuts neck, shoulder and armhole.The pattern for namely tucks and folds on the back call for all top, middle and side sections of the back, etc.

Utility patterns are usually made separately for all sizes and growth, but if interdimensional or mirostowice changes can be noted on the same pattern, then produce only one pattern, which makes interdimensional or mirostowice mark (see Fig. V-42).

------------------------

* Before the production of the curves in the drawings are made all of the updates identified in the samples of fittings (fittings see below).

** In products made of fabric with Dacron to give allowances for fabric shrinkage and width in the amount of 1 - 1.5% of the width of the part.

*** More precisely, the patterns for trimming povorotnikov as to the contours podvorotnya usually give allowances for refinement (pruning) after run the wet-heat treatment.

**** If the hair is fabric put fabric faux hair normal or reinforced interlining, hair cuts plate feature from the slices of openings not more than 1 - 1.5 cm.