The essence of the model design

 

the Design of clothes of different types and styles are very diverse. It is not something immutable, but evolves and changes with the development of clothing, to improve the technology and change of fashion. All this greatly complicates the development of designs of new models.

To facilitate this work, widely use data on the so-called standard designs or standard designs* clothing.

Fundamentally different designs, defined by the concept of "fit", there is much less than styles. Many fashions do not have significant difference in design of main parts of the cut. They differ only in minor details (the shape and width of the collars and lapels, pockets, the presence of finishing details, etc.), i.e. shaped features.

A large number of styles (models) of clothing you can imagine, therefore, a limited number of standard designs (designs).

Amendment of standard designs in comparison with the change of styles is rare and gradually (usually within a few years). This allows construction of new models of clothes for a long time to use the data on the typical fashion.

Therefore, when developing the design of new models based on the model, more attention is paid to the quality of the aesthetic design of the model and the development of its shaped features. Good development of standard designs creates the preconditions for economy of materials, improvement and standardization of processing.

Great job on the model design clothes and top women's knitwear conducted by the Kiev House jerseys [29].

 

The sequence of development of designs of new models

 

General scheme of work on designing clothes at the organization of the model design as follows [29].

1. The selection and allocation of standard designs of clothes depending on the gender and age of users, type of clothing and its style.

2. The design of parts of the model designs, including the technical reproduction of patterns.

3. Development of construction details of new clothes based on the details of the model structures.

4. Making patterns for products of new models.

On the first stage works must classify all products according polecam, cuts and silhouettes, so that on their basis to develop standard (base) designs clothes. For each cut taking into account groups of physique there must be a standard (baseline) design. For women clothes with great variety of models, a number of basic designs you will need more than for men or children. Especially great is the value of the underlying structures in the design of the production of clothing.TSNIISHP carrying out work on classification of industrial clothing for groups, depending on the size of the allowance for loose fit, defined working conditions, and develops the basic design for each group [45]. Having 4 - 5 groups and they developed the basic design, will be designing a production of clothes ready to take the basic design through simulation to obtain the necessary model, depending on the profession and working conditions.

Classification of models of clothes by groups of constructions carried out by a number of leading Houses of the models and clothing companies, showed almost complete identity of their basic parts in the group: backs, shelves, sleeves. As a rule, many lines and associated nodes of clothes from different models of clothes of the same species and cut are not changed. Such nodes are the armhole and the top part of the sleeves, shoulder, slice, slice of Rostock, neck. Other design elements, such as the side sections, pockets, etc., remain constant for the whole group of models available standard design [21, 23].

This allows you to produce a complete set of patterns (the top, lining, pads and utility) only for one model, adopted in the model. For the other models of this group designs and manufactures only the basic patterns top. They have tested and refined patterns of standard design. In some cases, the design of main parts (back, shelves, sleeves) and use them in new models without any changes [23].

The second stage works - development of a standard (base) designs are produced on the average size and growth for each polnocno-age groups recommended for modeling the clothes of this destination. Templates details on all the size-growth is produced by technical reproduction.

To develop model designs currently using various methods of approximate design. It is necessary that their calculations were based on the data of anthropometric measurements of typical figures. To improve the details of standard designs of clothing can be used accurate methods of construction of development outlined earlier.

On the third stage first, in accordance with the model choose model structure. Typical design develop drawings detailing a new model taking into account the peculiarities of its construction (the location of the tucks, pockets, pleats, shape the bead, lapel, etc.).

On the basis of the design drawing part performing drawing, and then produce patterns (the fourth stage).

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* Definition of cut given in the textbook Rusakov S. I. etc. the Technology of clothing manufacture, Wasteheat, 1961. Divide clothing by type of cut is performed at the main features of the shape and connections of the component parts of clothing characterizing the constructive basis of the product.

 

LITERATURE

 

21. Koshelev, G. G., a New method of making patterns. "Light industry", 1952, No. 8.

23. Tsarev N. And. Smirnov M. I., Kudryashov V. N. The unification of parts of the male costume. New equipment and technology for clothing manufacture, vol. 10, L., 1963.

29. Smirnov L. S., Trukhan, G. L., Vinca L. V., Dubinina O. A. Designing of knitted products. Wasteheat, 1962.

45. Arlovski V. I., Qing, E. K. the Basic design of the main types of industrial clothing. Sib. "Sewing industry", 1963, № 3.