Feature standard designs men's outerwear

 

Mens clothing large variety of standard designs does not have.

 

Men's suit

 

Men's suit may consist of two items: jacket and pants ("two") or three: jacket, pants and vest ("three"). To jacket for the season 1966/67 the city adopted two main silhouette: straight and poluprilegayuschy. For casual dress recommended straight silhouette with a barely marked waist. For formal and dressy suits recommended a longline jacket semi-fitted silhouette.

Blazer has always a reasonable width. The amount of the allowance for loose fit at the chest line coat is almost unchanged with the change of fashion. For the last 8 - 10 years it is stable and does not go beyond 6 - 7.5 cm in poluobhvat breast [31, 32, 33]. To create additional freedom of movement when designing the jacket from the tissues with a high (over 50%) fiber Dacron allowance for the free fit is recommended to increase by 2 cm, distributing it between the backrest width (0.5 cm), openings (1.0 cm) and shelves (0,5 cm) [36].

To create the appropriate three-dimensional shape of the jacket is commonly constructed with three longitudinal seams (two side and middle seam of a back). From the pocket shelves are front and side tuck (Fig. V-6, a).

Front tuck is often used in the jacket to give the shelf a convex shape in the chest area. In this case, the design of the cutting flank (Fig. V-6 b) or continue the front tuck to the bottom (Fig. V-6).

The typical location of the side of the pocket parallel to the line of the bottom shown in Fig. V-6, a, b. Slits side pockets usually located symmetrically to the vertical tangent to the armhole shelves. The shelves with the front tuck to the bottom of the jacket the pocket is moved 1 cm in the direction of line of prosanos (Fig. V-6).

Top pocket the leaflets within the left side with a slope down in the direction of the Board. The sides of the leaves parallel lines polutanata. With the aim of mechanization of processing pockets length pockets, normalized cut [23] and installed for side-pocket for groups of equal sizes: 44 - 50 sizes - 15.5 cm, 52 - 60 size - 16.5 cm for the pocket with leaves: 10 cm for 44, 46 sizes, 10.5 cm - 48 - 50, 11 cm 52 - 56 and 11.5 cm for 58 - 60.

The shape of the fastener and the sides of the jacket can be single-breasted and double-breasted (Fig. V-7). Double-breasted closure (Fig. V-7 a) differs from single-breasted (Fig. V-7 b) greater width of the boards (prosanos), form the sides of the bottom, shape and width of the lapels.

Width side (ready for use) for single breasted jacket is 2.0 - 2.5 cm, double breasted - 8 - 10 cm

Width of the lapels in single-breasted jackets can vary from 5 to 7 cm, double - 8cm and more model.

Certain rules in the arrangement of the loops of the clasp there. Most often the lower hinge is placed on the level of the cut of the pocket or bottom edge of the valve. If you do a single-button closure, it features at the level of the waist line (with deviations above or below the waist to 2 cm, depending on the fashion).

The layout of the jacket sleeve is double seam casting, consisting of upper and lower halves (Fig. V-8).

The width of the sleeve* ready: under armhole - 21 - 22 cm, bottom - 15 - 16 cm In the lower part of the elbow sections usually add allowances on the slot Length slots ready is 8 - 9 cm Width of the seam allowance on the slot 2 see

the Collar of the jacket turn-down, consisting of two parts: the collar and podvorotnya. Its length depends on the height of the ledge of the lapel. Standard width: the ends - 3,0 - 3,5 cm, in the middle - 7 - 8 cm (Fig. V-9)

Held in the LDM observation [19] showed that the blazers only change templates for almalki Board, podborta and collar, the rest of the details can be repeated in many models. Practically this allowed LDM to develop the construction details of tens models of jacket for the season 1964/65 on the basis of all three varieties (types) of the shelves (Fig. V-10 a), the backrest (Fig. V-10, b) and Bochkov (Fig. V-10). The details of the double seam of the sleeve (Fig. V-10, g) remain constant for all, without exception, the models of jacket.

In the presence of mannequins model internal model design the main parts of the jacket (shelves, back, sleeves, collar) can be improved by constructing them on the model methods set out in the previous Chapter. In this regard, improvement of parts produced, leaving the same number of stitches as in the sample model, or eliminating seams in the sides, sleeves and collar. In this case, the product design shelves with shift podborany, sleeve front seam and collar without cutting podvorotnya.

This design detail is also applicable for women's jackets and coats.

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* Here and further are given standard dimensions for medium size 50.

 

Trousers

 

the Trousers can be wide, normal and narrow throughout length, narrowed or expanded only at the bottom.

The upper edge of the trousers can be cutting zone or cap. On the front halves of the pants from the upper sections usually do a tuck and crease (Fig. V-11 a). Solution front tuck at the top 1.5-2.0 cm, the width of the folds at the top 2,5 - 3,0 see the Tuck finish on the hip line or slightly higher. Stock on the crease can result in the line depth of the bow or bottom.

In the upper part of the back halves make one or two Darts length 8 - 10 cm General solution of the top 3 to 4 cm from the tips of the Darts are fitted: one in the middle rear pockets, two at the same distance from the ends of the pocket, ending on the line of the cut of the pocket or below a - 2 - 3 cm (see Fig. III-21). The line of the side pockets combine with side seams (longitudinal) or placed on the front halves (slanted pockets). The front half of the line sometimes do pocket cutting (see Fig. V-11 a). The upper ends of the side pockets is located at a distance of 4.0 - 4.5 cm from the weld zone.Length vertical pockets for 48 - 50 sizes - 17.0 cm, angled - 1B - 16.5 cm (depending on degree of slope). Back pocket (with a flap or frame) is placed on the right side of the pants, parallel to top slice at a distance of 8.0 cm from it and 4 to 5 cm from the side of the slice. The length of the pocket 14 Hour pocket see is neproizvol (in the seam zone) and Welt on the front left side at a distance of 3.5 - 4.0 cm from side seam. Length watch pocket for all sizes of 7 cm.

The bottom edge of the pants cuffs trim (width 4 5 cm) treated with or without cuffs. Allowance for the cuff take is equal to 7 - 11 cm depending on the width and type of cuffs. The width of the hem in the pants without cuffs 4 - 5 cm Zipper can be ordinary (a hook-and-loop, buttons) or on the tape "lightning". For threading the strap into the top of the pants stachivaya 5 - 7 belt loops or use the holes in the folds and seams potrebnih belts.

The rear half of the pants hem and the waist line is wider than the front halves 4 cm, side and stepping seams offset to the front. This is due to the ease of use side pocket, machined into the side seam. This shift especially the side and stepping seams are not justified in the pants with pockets located on the front halves, as the wider rear half of the pants, the worse the conditions of molding.

The width of the pants at the bottom changes depending on the fashion, size, growth and completeness. In a small completeness width of the trousers-leg is usually reduced. In large and very large entirety of the width of the pants at the bottom take the same"in the middle. With the increase or decrease of pants one size width at the bottom, respectively, increase or decrease for a small fullness at ±0.25 cm, for medium, large and extra large ±0.5 cm [33].

When designing trousers consider pulling the rear halves of the pants in the upper part of a step cut. For this step cut the rear halves of the pants on the site from the knee to the middle section made shorter stepper cut the front halves of 0.5 - 1.0 cm (see Fig. III - 21). The magnitude of pulling depends on the degree of inclination of a step cut rear halves of the pants. The more stepping cut of the rear halves of the trousers on the drawing stands for stepper cut the front halves, the greater his delay, and Vice versa.

To shape back part of trousers pulls in the lower section of the cut-off at 1.5 - 2.5 cm, and the crease line it is recommended to cutivate. The plot against the gluteal muscles, the average cut of the pants is also recommended to cutivate 0.5 - 0.7 see

Form stepper and lateral sections of the pants are narrow throughout their length and more complex. The details of these pants is formed also in the lower parts of both halves. The front halves of trousers pulls on the area below the knee on the side step and slice into 0.3 - 0.5 cm, and to the fold line storevault about the same size. The rear halves of the pants on these areas pulled at the folds and storevault on the side and step sections (Fig. V-11 b) approximately the same amount, which pulls the front half.

Wide leg pants have a more direct form sections and forming require wet-heat processing.

The main parts of the pants from the tissues with the Dacron that require minimal wet-heat treatment, make slightly wider at the top and through the knee and more direct lateral and stepper sections.

The design of the pants can be improved by the methods outlined in the previous Chapter.

 

Coat

 

the Basic silhouettes of men's coat: straight and poluprilegayuschy.

Coat more often two typical form-fitting sleeve: set-in and Raglan. Raglan sleeve goes, usually with a straight silhouette coat.

Coat, as well as the jacket has three longitudinal stitches: two side and middle seam of the back. Coat semi-fitted silhouette from the pocket do a side tuck. The front tuck only doing some models coat business suit type. In this case can be upper pockets with leaflets.

Allowances for free customized fit when designing design coat more than the jacket. For demi-season coats, the model construction, the amount of the allowance for loose fit to poluobhvat chest take is equal to 11 - 13 cm.

Allowance for the thickness of the tissues of PTM is taken equal to 1 - 2 cm (1 cm, 2 cm for spring, autumn and winter coat). For a winter coat depending on the thickness of the insulating strip further added allowance PT..PR, equal to 2,5 - 4,0 cm

Length of coat set different depending on the fashion, group size and age of the consumers (table. V-3) .

As can be seen from table V-3, for young men the length of the coat and the sleeve length make shorter than for people of average and senior age. To preserve the basic proportions of the product length coat in group sizes 44 - 52 less than in the group of large size. For winter coats, the length is set to 2 cm larger than demi.

The shape of the zipper coat can be single-breasted and double-breasted. The clasp can be open ("on style"), closed (top) and combined (top to bottom and "style"). The latter is more often used in winter coats.

The shape of the lapel and width of the boards is volatile and change depending on fashion. The width of the sides of typical trench coat with double-breasted closure: the jacket - 10 - 13 cm, winter - 11 - 14 cm; single breasted closure: in summer and 5 - 6 cm, set of 6 - 8 cm Based on the requirements to thermal protective clothing, winter coat with single-breasted closure almost design. The number and location of the loops in the clasp of the coat depends on the model. Often make 3 to 4 loops. The lower hinge is usually placed at the bottom of the valve.The upper hinge (coat closed and mixed buckles) at a distance of 3 to 4 cm from the top of the lapel, coat with an open clasp - often on the chest. The distance between the loops depends on their number.

A characteristic feature of men's coat is cut (slot) in the middle seam of the back. The length of the slots depends on the length of the product. The distance from the point of sprout to the upper end of slots ASH coat can be found via the recommended [32] according to AL = DK - (18 + room growth), where DC - measurement figures from the 7th cervical vertebra to the center of the kneecaps. The width of the slots in the finished form is equal to 4 - 5 cm.

In a short coat length above the knee of the slot as the feature is not needed, but may be allowed by the model. The length of the slots in this case is much smaller. The upper end of the slots must be located no higher than the hips.

Vtachnoy sleeve coat may be a double seam or three-seam.

Vtachnoy sleeve double seam (Fig. V-12, a) by design, similar to the sleeve of his jacket. Sleeve length summer spring and autumn coat is set to 1 cm longer than the jacket sleeve, winter - 1 cm long sleeve jacket coat [31].

Sleeve width spring, autumn and summer coat of the same freedom fit is on average 2 cm more than the jacket. In winter coat additional allowance for insulation gasket extends the sleeve of 2.0 - 2.5 cm.

The width of the front rolling sleeves from the coat increase compared with the sleeve of his jacket to 1 cm and we take equal to 3 - 4 cm [32, 31]. Sleeve width at the bottom depends on the width of sleeve at the top, equal to an average of 23 - 24 cm Standard width of the sleeve at the bottom for size 50 1B,5 - 17,5 cm In the lower part of the elbow sections of the sleeves often make the slot. Allowance for the width of the slots is equal to 2 cm, length slots ready 9 - 10 cm

Flow-casting the sleeve (Fig. V-12, b) has a top (outer), front and elbow seams. Flow sleeve at the bottom can be cuffed or patoi.

The standard form of collar for men's winter coats is the usual turn-down collar (Fig. V-13, a, b).

The height of the stand collar for winter coat equal to 3.5 - 4.0 cm, summer - 3,0 - 3,5 cm Width of the departure depends on the model. For coats standard design the width of the collar in the middle, on average, equal 10,0 - 12,0 see the Size and shape of the front end of the collar will vary by model and is usually linked to the size and shape of the lapel.

The lower collar for winter coats (Fig. V-13) is different from the usual fold-over collar bottom of a steeper bending of the rack and departure and by the middle of the slice, which is made with a ledge on the shear stand. Form bottom shawl collar winter coat shown in Fig. V-13, It is usually built on the cut of the neck of shelves.

Coat of a straight silhouette (Fig. V-14, a) is characterized by the following features.

The middle section of the backrest is inclined at the waist line, equal to 1.5 - 2.5 cm, the Top side of the slice backless located at a distance of 3 - 6 cm from the vertical, defining the width of the back. At the bottom of the back make 0.5 - 1.0 cm wider than her arm.

On the shelf can be transverse Welt flap pocket or slant pocket with leaves or frame.

Length of the cut pocket and a normalized set of groups of size: 44 - 50 is equal to 16.5 cm, 52 - 60 - 17,5 see

Coat of a straight silhouette pocket can be overlaid (see Fig. V-14). Width SMD pocket ready equal to the length of the cut of the pocket plus seam allowance, equal to twice the width of the finishing stitches. The length of the surface of the pocket greater than its width by 2 - 4 cm

Coat semi-fitted silhouette (Fig. V-14, and b) their design is similar to the jacket.

A medium cut backless bevel is equal to 2,5 - 4,5 cm at the waist. The size of the bevel varies depending on the degree of fit of the waist [32, 31]. The top side of the slice located at a distance of 2 - 2.5 cm from the vertical, defining the width of the back. The width of the back waist make 2.5 - 3.5 cm narrower than the width of its through the depth of the armhole. Back width at the bottom depends on the mode. At present, it is taken equal to the width of the back at the waist line.

The magnitude of solutions of Darts is shown in Fig. V-14 b.

Side pocket coat semi-fitted silhouette is usually transverse Welt with flap.

Jacket coat Raglan (Fig. V-14) differs from the coat of a direct silhouette with set-in sleeve shape and the armhole depth. Further deepening the openings in Raglan is 1.0 to 4.0 cm sleeve Width line of Rostock and neck in average equal to 1.0 - 2.0 cm

Zip in jacket coat Raglan can be single-breasted and double-breasted. Single-breasted closure can be open and hidden. Doing turn-down collar, usually small in size.

Raglan cut with a better combination of longitudinally extending pockets with leaflets.

Raglan sleeve (Fig. V-15) men's coat usually has three longitudinal seam: top, front, and elbow.

 

LITERATURE

 

19. Gushchina, K. G. To the question of enhancing the resistance to wear male costume. Research works TSNIISHP, Gisleham, 1957, No. 6.

23. Tsarev N. And. Smirnov M. I., Kudryashov V. N. The unification of parts of the male costume. New equipment and technology for clothing manufacture, vol. 10, L., 1963.

31. Vinogradov S. K., Ribakov V. N., Lebedev, A. M. Designing men's outerwear, Wasteheat, 1961.

32. A common method of designing clothes. Men's clothing, Gomelpromstroi, 1962.

33. Experience of designing men's clothing. "Sewing industry", series VIII, 4(6). Cintalapa, 1963.

36. Sinyakov A. B., Tsarev, N. And. Designing men's suits from fabrics containing more than 50% fiber polyester. L., 1964.