Characteristics of typical designs of women's outerwear

 

Women's outerwear clothes can be classified according to: the silhouette of them in the surrounding, poluprilegayuschy, direct and free; the number of longitudinal seams - double seam, gusset pouches and shestakovo; by the cut of the sleeve - casting, single cut and Raglan sleeves.

 

These signs are cut can occur in various combinations. Therefore, the number of model designs, typical designs of women's clothing much more than men's clothing.

 

In different periods of time, certain signs of casual meet more often, others less, some signs of better together, others worse. Therefore, in each period of time a number of the most common standard designs is relatively small. So, Raglan sleeves and cap combine well only with straight and loose silhouette. One or the other form-fitting sleeve depending on the fashion can temporarily not be used or modified.

 

One of the main signs of the cut, forming a three-dimensional shape and silhouette of clothing is,the number of longitudinal seams on the back and the shelf.

 

The most common are jackets and coats with three longitudinal stitches: two side and middle seam of the back.

 

The main difference between double seam products from flow-is the absence of middle seam of the back. Products with two longitudinal seams (double seam), as well as three (flow) may be different in silhouette. However, the most technologically advanced in the treatment should recognize the double seam products straight silhouette. The attached poluprilegayuschy and products to create the desired snug fit at the waist while processing the whole of the back to handle tuck, but if they are not provided by the model, to perform the wet-heat treatment.

 

Shesterova clothing is in addition to the two longitudinal side seams, four seam, two at the back and two on the shelf. These joints are located symmetrically line the middle of the back and line polutanata. Testerone jackets and coats usually are not straight line. Additional seams are not only ornamental, but useful because they are used to shape products attached and semi-fitted silhouettes. In chastikovyh products front tuck on shelves and tuck on the back doesn't project as they replace the joints.

 

Closure female products can be: single breasted and double breasted. Single-breasted closure can in turn be Central (when the buttons are sew on the line polutanata) and offset.

 

The width of the sides in single-breasted garments: jacket - 2 - 4 cm, coat is 4 - 6cm; double-breasted: jacket - 6 - 8 cm, coat - 8 - 10 cm Wide starboard in products with Central clasp set is the same as in single-breasted garments; the left shelf are usually made in 3 to 4 cm wider than the right, to avoid divergence of the shelves down when walking.

 

Women's clothes are more difficult to characterize the model designs than men's, due to its greater variability, therefore, confine ourselves to a brief description of some designs of women's jackets and coats, which can be regarded as typical, occurring with certain changes always.

 

Coat and jacket is semi-fitted and adjacent silhouettes

 

In Fig. V-16 shows the design flow of the jacket, which can be depending on the size of the allowance for loose fit at the waist attached or semi-fitted silhouette. Design flow jacket has many similarities with the design of the jacket. Key design features the following: top tuck on the shelf, the greater the solution the front, side tucks and side seam, another form of medium cut backless. Sometimes in the back at the waist can also be a tuck (Fig. V-16, as shown by dashed lines).

 

The standard form side pockets in jacket of this type is a transverse Welt pocket flap or in a frame. The slope of the pocket can vary depending on the model. Length of the cut of the pocket is less than in a jacket (14 cm for size 48).

 

Currently, the flow design of the jacket changed slightly: instead of doing tuck the side cutting flank (Fig. V-15 as shown by hachures), sometimes a separate piece is performed and the upper side of the shelves. In this case, the upper dart is moved closer to the cut of the armholes and at the bottom it connects to a front tuck (as in Fig. V-15, b).

 

The standard form of the sleeve of the jacket is the sleeve vtachnoy double seam (Fig. V-16, V), different from the jacket sleeve extended upper half and a narrower lower [35 - 37].

 

Design shesterenok of the jacket shown in Fig. V-15 b.

 

The position of the front decorative seam on the shoulder the cut and lines the chest of the shelves is determined by the position of the upper Darts: shoulder cut at a distance of 5 - 6 cm from the top of the neck, on the chest at a distance of 11 - 13 cm from the line of prosanos. On the waist line seam shift by 1.0 - 1.5 cm in the direction of line of prosanos to create the visual impression of narrowing of the product at the waist. On the hem, on the contrary, this seam is removed by 1.0 - 1.5 cm at the side seam. The position of the decorative seam of the back on the shoulder cut is determined by the position of the front decorative seam.While decorative seam at the top is used as a tuck to create the convexity in the blades (tuck solution of 2.0 - 2.5 cm). On the waist line, the seam from the middle line of the back at a distance of 6 - 6.5 cm, on the bottom line - at a distance of 7,5 - 8,0 see

 

The "classic" form chastikovyh products in recent years has changed, giving place to poluprilegayuschy jackets and coats with the location of decorative seams on the back and the shelf and not from the shoulder sections and openings. One example of such products is fairly widespread in the 60-ies design coat, called "charms"* (Fig. V-17). Characteristic for products of this cut is trapeze on the side seams and a fit (prichinnosti) front and rear, created Darts contour seams in the decorative backrest and shelves.Sometimes semilying silhouette front combined with a free backrest.

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* Charms (FR. redingote, English, reding literally coat: frock coat for riding) - long coat special fitting.

 

Coat and jacket of a direct silhouette with a variety of cut sleeves

 

Straight silhouette is widely used in modeling and designing women's clothing. Sometimes it is modified, for example, multiple tapers or flares. However, the basis for the design of a narrowed and extended down products is a basic design straight-leg silhouette.

 

Coat and jacket with set-in sleeve (Fig. V-18) have the following features.

 

In accordance with a silhouette of the side seam should not be visible from the back, so he shifted to the middle of the armhole. In a direct silhouette can be recommended for sizes 44 - 56 design coat without side seams and with no middle seam of the back. Slant the middle line of the back is 1.5 - 2.5 cm. Coat and jacket can be single breasted and double breasted and have the pockets, collars and sleeves of different design. Can be used elements lend the sporting character of the: yoke, belt, pockets, etc.

 

Raglan (Fig. V-19) in their design in women's clothing similar to men's.

 

A feature of the armhole shelves of women's products with the sleeve Raglan is a top tuck, if the model is located from the shoulder cut shelves.

 

Depending on the model silhouette and Raglan sleeve can be wide or narrow with more or less deepening the armhole. Usually in clothing, more tight fitting sleeve do with little additional deepening of the openings (1 - 2 cm), which facilitates the lifting of hands. In a direct silhouette of the sleeve may be wider, and the value of the additional recess of the openings to achieve a 2 - 4 cm

 

In the double seam the Raglan sleeve has upper and lower seams, one-piece sleeve upper seam is replaced by a large tuck at the top of the sleeve.

 

Also found the cut, when the upper parts of the sleeves come to the shoulder, but do not reach the neck. This style is called "proregular" (Fig. V-19 shows dashed lines).

 

Coats and jackets with cap sleeves (Fig. V-20) is characterized in that the sleeve is integral with a back and a shelf that attaches to the bodice of a soft form. Cap sleeve has two seams: the top and bottom.

 

The value of the additional recess of the openings depends on the model, on average it is equal to 3 - 6 see the Top of the side seam at the line of openings are usually placed in the middle. In order not to hamper the movement of the arms, the back of the shelf and make undercuts, into which insert the gusset. The length of the sides of the gusset connected with the bottom (inner) sections of the sleeves may be different depending on the model. In separate cases, the gusset may pass to the bottom of the sleeves.

 

Coat in combined fashion (e.g., the back with cap sleeves, a shelf with a set) gusset do not. It replaces the casting of the sleeve (Fig. V-21). In this case, usually the lower seam of the sleeve is moved to place the elbow, and the side seam closer to the back. As a result, the cap of the sleeve and the back taper, and the casting of the sleeve is connected to the shelf by the same amount it expands (shown shaded).

 

Design features women's easy dresses

 

Women's easy dress is extremely varied designs. To easy dress include: dresses, dress-suits, tunics, gowns, blouses, skirts, etc. [46, 47].

 

To allocate standard design (or rather, a basic framework) to dress even more difficult than women's outerwear, as they often change depending on the fashion.

 

The main signs for casual dresses you can consider the cut of the sleeves, the constructive connection of the bodice to the skirt and the silhouette.

 

By the cut sleeve basic Foundation of women's easy dresses are divided into: vtachnoy sleeve, cap sleeve Raglan.

 

By construction, the connection of the bodice to the skirt of the dress are neotrezannymi at the waist (bodice with skirt together) and cut bodice and skirt.

 

The silhouette netrezvye waist dresses can be direct (casual shirt), poluprilegayuschy and adjacent forms.

 

Dress with detachable bodice and skirt designs in various combinations: with attached bodice and slim or wide skirt or with a blouson bodice, often with a slouchy fit at the back, and a slim straight skirt.

 

The original basic design, which can be designed all other design women's easy dress design is a dress of adjoining silhouette with a one-piece casting sleeve and the cutting or neotrazimoi bodice skirt (Fig. V-22).

 

The main features of the design of the bodice next. Allowance for free customized fit to poluobhvat chest in a light dress, take equal to 3 - 6 see the Fit at the shoulder cut backless dress is usually replaced by a tuck with a solution of 2 - 2,5 cm the Top of the side seam located at a distance of 1/4 to 1/2 of the width of the openings.

 

For the best fit of the shape in the waist Darts do, the solution of which is calculated by the General rules. The value of the solution tucks varies depending on the model. The length of the Darts on the waist depending on the model. The average length of their 10 - 15 see the Tuck on the back are usually placed at a distance equal to 0.4 of the width of the back, closer to the midline of the back. The upper end of the front Darts at the waist on the shelf feature in accordance with the position of the upper tuck. All tuck in a cotton dress uncut.

 

Allowances to poluobhvat waist and hips are set depending on profile. Estimated value of allowances for adjacent products 1.5 - 2.5 cm, poluprilegayuschy - 3,0 - 5,0 cm

 

In some models tuck fully or partially replace assemblies, folds, etc., which make about the same height as the waist line.

 

In the women's lightweight dress there is a great diversity in the location of the upper Darts. The top tuck can be sent from the armhole from side seam above or below the waist, neck, etc.

 

Vtachnoy sleeve dress typically has a single bottom seam. On the elbow cut sleeves for freedom of fit of the arms at the elbow, make a tuck with a solution of 1.5 - 2.0 cm, length 5 - 6 cm top part of sleeve in a cotton dress of an average of 14 - 16 cm Width of sleeve depends on the model, on average, the 48 size is 18 - 19 cm along the length of the sleeve can be long short 3/4, 7/8, etc.

 

design Features dresses with cap sleeves was previously considered.

 

Neckline in the dress can be of various shapes, without collar and with collar.

 

Design features children's clothing

 

Children's clothing should not only please the eye with its harmonious proportions, beautiful lines, well-chosen fabrics and trim, but she must first of all be lightweight, comfortable, does not restrict movement, easy to manufacture.

 

Design of children's clothing does not remain constant and unchangeable, they, as well as clothing for adults, improve and change under the influence of fashion. The novelty and variety of children's clothing to some extent, depend on those lines that are fashionable in clothes adults.

 

However, children's clothing should not blindly copy clothes for adults. Separate fashion elements: collars, yoke, embroidery, finishing of a fabric of a different color, leather, knitwear - give the clothing a modern character.

 

Silhouette of children's clothing does not change as often as clothing for adults, and is in direct proportion to age, physique and appearance of the child.

 

Babies nursery age (from 1 year to 3 years) the silhouette of the dress almost fits into a square (Fig. V-23). This clothing should be with a wide armhole, which will not restrict movements of hands, short pants for boys or a wide short skirt for girls. Silhouette of clothing for pre-school children (3 to 7 years) resembles an elongated quadrangle. Dress and coat do a bit longer than the kids. The waist line at toddlers and preschool age are not emphasized, as she barely stands out on the figure. Clothing design model and therefore with a lowered or raised waistline, yoke, etc.

 

In the Junior school age (7 to 12 years) the silhouette of the clothing dramatically lengthened (Fig. V-23 b) at the expense of limb lengthening. Along with the straight and loose silhouette appears and poluprilegayuschy, and the bodice make it more narrow, and the skirt extended. The bodice is design with small in size and the upper tuck needed to fit the breast.

 

Children of senior school age (12 to 15 years) and adolescents (over 15 years) the figure is already well-developed Breasts and to emphasize the waist. Therefore, the clothing of their silhouette more reminiscent of the clothing of adults. Dresses can be made more formfitting, solution top tuck in girls clothing increases (Fig. V-23).

 

Methods design children's clothing [38] in essence no different from the methods adopted in the design of clothing for adults. When designing children's clothing is usually large largest allowances for free customized fit than clothing for adults. For example, the amount of the allowance for loose fit to poluobhvat chest for children's demi-season coat, it is recommended to take 15-18 cm (in adults 9 - 13), and for younger children allowance charge more than for older children.

 

When designing children's clothing in even more extensive than in the adult, you can use the modeling and design on the "same constructive basis," and standard designs of clothing.

 

LITERATURE

 

35. A common method of designing clothes. Women's clothing, Gomelpromstroi, 1962.

36. Sinyakov A. B., Tsarev, N. And. Designing men's suits from fabrics containing more than 50% fiber polyester. L., 1964.

37. Tsarev N. And. Designing of women's outerwear. Wasteheat, 1963.

38. A common method of designing clothes. Children's clothing, Gomelpromstroi, 1963.

46. Yevtushenko M. A., Smirnova R. S. Construction of women's easy dresses. Wasteheat, 1960.

47. Form A. F. F. A. Gorelenkova Cutting, sewing and modeling women's dresses. Wasteheat, 1961.