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Home » Articles » Design basics clothing

Technical modeling

DESIGN PATTERNS of NEW CLOTHES USING BASIC principles AND STANDARD DESIGNS (TECHNICAL MODELING)
 
In the development of design patterns of new clothes with the use of basic principles and typical designs you can select 3 different options.
1. Develop new models without changing the silhouette forms the foundations of standard design, for which you are developing the design of the new model. This option is widely used in the development of "families" of models on the same constructive basis. A variety of models in this case is achieved by changing the position of the lines of seams, Darts, lines, pockets, number of loops and buttons, shape of lapels, collars, collars, etc. For the application of contoured features of the new models can be used approximate calculations for the transition rates (see below).
2. When developing new models changes the silhouette (the degree of fit in the waist, the extension at the bottom, etc.). These changes in the drawing is transferred roughly without any calculation. In this case, the patterns of the new models should be validated and refined during the prototyping of new models with fittings on model figures or mannequins.
3. On a constructive basis of one type of product to develop other products. For example, based on women's winter coats free-form develop the design details of the Cape [30]. This variant gives the most inaccurate results. Therefore, the patterns of the new models should also be updated in the manufacture of the samples.
Patterns new patterns are developing approximately in the following order:
1. Study of the model and the selection of basic fundamentals of standard design.
2. The choice of upper materials, lining and butt with models, physico-mechanical properties and the appearance of the fabric (texture, color, etc.).
3. The transfer of model features from a drawing or sample for drawing basics.
4. The determination of the allowances for seams, pleats, hem, etc. and the construction of patterns of parts of the new model.
The choice of basic fundamentals of standard design or construction of a primary drawing to produce a given type of product, cut, silhouette and the age group to which the recommended model.
The basic details of the foundations manufactured from cardboard or heavy paper without allowances for processing and shrinkage of tissues and cause them to main structural lines of the chest, waist, hips, polustanok, tucks, pockets, etc.
the Model can be specified as a picture (sketch, photo) or sample the model in full size. Silhouette the shape of the trousers may also be specified as a flat pattern. In the latter two cases, the size and shape of the new model is determined directly on the sample a finished product or a flat pattern.
In the presence of sample models and mannequins of the inner form for the development of the design details of the new model it is possible to apply the methods of design and modeling of clothes, set out above.
More difficult to develop the design of the parts and their shapes especially when the model is given in the form of a drawing or photograph. In this case, the number of dimensions of the model is set only approximately.
For transferring the shaped features of the model from the picture on the basis on the figure (Fig. V-24) is applied to a line mid-front and the main horizontal lines: sprout (I - I), shoulders (II - II) breast (III - III), waist (IV - IV) hips (V - V) knee (VI - VI) and the bottom.
Considering a picture or a photo as the geometrically similar image of a model sample, the estimated original dimensions of the design details can be determined by the formula of geometric similarity XH = ChR, where XH is the initial size of the natural components; XP - original part size drawing of the model; k is the transfer coefficient (scale), defined as the ratio of detail size to natural size on the basis of drawing to the size of the detail drawing of the model.
For example, the ratio of the length of the article on the basis of the same length pattern; or the length of the cut pocket at the base to the length of the cut pocket pattern, etc.
By drawing the model roughly determine also the slope of the line pockets, Raskatov, tucks, etc., believing that these lines are positioned to line polosamota in the drawing and illustration of the model is approximately under the same angle.
Sometimes the width of the lapel, the end of the collar and other details to conveniently determine not on transitional rates, and by comparing the figure and the drawing size standard (e.g., the length of the cut pockets with leaflets with the product) and the required details. For example, the width of the lapel "x" in the drawing (Fig. V-25) can be determined from the proportions used/10,5 = a/x, hence x = a/B10,5 or x = k x 10.5, where 10.5 is - typical length post-48 - 50 size; k is the transition rate equal to a/b a - the width of the lapel on the pattern; b - the width of the leaves in the picture.
Also, the design patterns of new models in the practice of Homes models are widely used standardized parts and components.
Examples of design patterns basic of elements: backs, shelves, sleeves and collars is given below.
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30. Cheremnykh A. I., Samar, A., Rasbash, I. Y. Design top women's clothing. Gisleham, 1959.


Category: Design basics clothing | Added by: 27.10.2017
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