The design of the backs and shelves of different models of

 

Transfer lines of the model from the picture on the design drawing

 

In products with an open clasp (blazer, jacket, coat) on the design drawing is first of all transferred lines the edge of the Board and lapel with the help of transfer factors (Fig. V-26).

To determine the position of the hinges and lay the wide side. The width of the Board depends on the type of product, type of fastener, size and model.

The average values of the width of the Board are given in table. V-4.

The plot against the hinge side usually have the same width. In single-breasted jackets and jackets with rounded floors and the width of the bead at the bottom of the loop can be less than 0.5 - 1.0 cm than at the level of the top hinge.

This is followed by a fold line of the lapel. At the edge of a Board 1 - 2 inches above the top of the loop marks the point P (Fig. V-26). From the highest point of the neck G on the continuation of the line of the shoulder cut lay cut GH equal to the height of the collar stand (2.0 - 3.0 cm). Combining point P and G direct get the fold line of the lapel. The intersection of this line with the line of the neck shelves gives the starting point of the line ruskea H. In models with an open zip and a high ledge of the lapel, the neckline shelves increase to 2 - 3 cm and more, and in models with the low ledge of the lapel lower, respectively (Fig.V-26 shown by dashed lines). Increase or decrease the line of the neck is produced on the fold line of the lapel.

In products with closed zipper top line of the neck the basis for modeling usually do not change.

The width of the lapel LL and width of the collar at the ends WW usually determined by the coefficient* of the transition. The cut of the lapel and collar it's recommended to apply on a shelf in bent (ready), and then build a scan of the lapel. From the point G hold the line defining the direction of the line ruskea at the same angle of slope and the sketch of the model. Then turn the lapel and place the edge of the collar and lapel in the line of its bend GP. To do this, hold the accessory perpendicular to the fold line of the lapel and lay on the continuation of segments of appropriate length: LL = LL;LL = LL, etc. (Fig. V-26).

If the product provided by stygiana from the lapel for the formation of bulges on the chest near the shelves (movement of neck), the construction of the lapel is recommended to not taken away neckline.

The location of the lines of pockets, tucks, coquettes, etc., their size and direction are transferred from the drawing model in the drawing is also using transfer factors and protractor.

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* The width of the collar at the end is usually determined by the length of the ledge lapel.

 

Conical expansion and saugeye backs and shelves

 

depending on the model's silhouette tapered extension parts may begin at a different level. In the products of adjacent silhouette parts usually extend from the waist or hips. For a more uniform distribution of the expansion around the perimeter of the product in the adjacent patterns having a significant extension in the lower part, on the backs and shelves provide additional longitudinal seams (Fig. V-27).

Conical extension depending on the model can be uniform around the entire perimeter of the article or uneven - longer on the sides than front and back. Also, the design of the main parts of the drawing model or a photo of the amount of extension of the parts at the bottom roughly define the silhouette of the model. Thus possible inaccuracy admit in the direction of increasing the width of the parts to have a greater margin for refiners in the manufacturing process of the sample.

The uniform extension of the product value extension, is distributed in proportion to the width of the parts "basis": to detail more width to give greater expansion and Vice versa. The biggest expansion is usually done in the side seams, slightly less in longitudinal joints of the shelves and backs, and even less in the middle of the backs and shelves.

For natural (vertical) location of seams in the finished product, the direction of stitches from the pattern model on the basis of the transfer, positioning them vertically down. These lines give the corresponding extension at the bottom, usually equally in both directions from the vertical (Fig. V-27, V-28).

The tapered extension parts products straight silhouette is usually produced:

on the back - from the level of the shoulder blades or from the cutoff;

on the shelf - from the highest points of the chest or off the shoulder of the slice;

in the shoulder - from the top of the side seams or 10 - 12 cm above the level of the depth of the armhole.

Conical saugeye parts down is very similar to the conical expansion. Basic details saugat mainly at the lateral sections and the middle line of the back. Minor expansion or saugeye main parts skirts the side seams and usually starts from the hip line (Fig. V-29, a, b). A significant expansion of the skirts is usually produced by lateral, front and rear seams.

Separate skirts can be simultaneously expanded upward and narrowed (Fig. V-29).

 

The change in the degree of fit of the waist line

 

Fit products at the waist reach due to the change of the solution and the configuration of the side seams, additional seams and Darts at the back and the shelf.

The degree of fit models waist can be used to roughly determine the description of the appearance and pattern or sample model.

In the men's products, the degree of fit of the waist line of different models varies slightly and this is mainly due to seams and Darts, available in standard designs.

Minor changes to the fit at the waist of the individual models can be produced in the manufacturing process of sample models. More substantial changes made to the design patterns of the new model. The total value of the increase or decrease of the total solution tucks distributed in accordance with the model.

Models of women's products is great diversity in the degree of fit of the waist line.

Products can be evenly placed along the entire perimeter (circle) or irregularly: more on the sides or front only, etc.

If the model is set ready sample, the total solution tucks can be defined as the difference between the half width of the scarf at the chest line and waist (from center back line polutanata).

If the back or the shelf instead of the recesses have longitudinal seams, the value of solutions tucks at the back and the shelf is fully transferred to these joints. The side seam usually move towards the middle of the armhole.

If the model is missing a front tuck, and the degree of fit compared to the standard design does not change, the solution of this tuck evenly distributed between the side tuck and side seam.

In the models, slightly narrowed at the waist, side and front tucks do not normally do. Fit provide only by the side seams. In poluprilegayuschy products fit provide due to the side seams, side bust Darts (or cutting the barrel) and tuck the front (depending on model). The solutions tucks are distributed roughly according to the model and clarify the process of sample production models.

 

The transfer of the top tuck

 

in Almost all the methods of design calculations to build the "foundations" of women's products made for the top tuck shelf, extending from the shoulder seam.

In various models, the top tuck can be directed from neckline, armholes, side cut, edge Board, etc.

To build top of the Darts in accordance with the model of the product using various methods of migration tuck: a) arcs and serifs, b) perpendicular, C) templates.

The essence of all ways of transfer of the tuck is that the angle of the solution of the original tuck coming from the shoulder cut, close and open the same angle from the line of location of the new Darts, which had previously applied to the drawing of the bases of the shelves. The bulk form of the part thus practically does not change.

Method of arcs and notches (Fig. V-30, a) is that in the drawing the basics of pursuing a line of new Darts, then the center solution source O tuck carried out several arcs so that they pass through the main structural point of the lateral cut and the arm openings and the beginning of a new tuck point, and bring them to lines of the original tuck coming from the shoulder cut. On these arcs from points C, K, L, M, etc. in the source-side tuck (in our example, clockwise) make notch radii equal to the chords of the respective arcs cut off by the lines of the solution of the original tuck OA and OB.

From point C, make a notch with a radius of 1 - 1', a point and a radius 2 - 2', etc., noting the new position of the sections points To S', etc. Points of the contour of the openings K', L', M', N', etc. connect with a smooth curve, similar to the original line of the armhole. By connecting the point O' a point', get a corner solution new tuck S O S.

Method of perpendiculars (Fig. V-30, b) is similar to the way arcs and serifs. First on the drawing framework also put a line of new Darts. The line of openings every 5 - 6 cm set point 1, 2, 3, etc.

Of the points on the line OA down the perp, noting their intersection points With', 1', 2', etc. Then from a point On the line ABOUT delay periods equal OS', O1', O2', etc., noting their ends by points", 1", 2", etc.

From points",1",2", etc. to the line ABOUT the conduct of the perpendiculars, on which lay the segments equal - ', 1 - 1', 2 - 2' etc., and their ends mark the points With"', 1"', 2"' etc. Through these points hold the new contour of the part, as in the way of arcs and serifs. This method is more time consuming and less accurate than the method of arcs and notches, and is of limited use.

Method templates (Fig. V-30) is a simple, reasonably accurate, and least time consuming. First, the template made from tracing paper, cardboard or heavy paper and outline a new line of Darts WITH'. The template is then cut along the line of new Darts to the line or ABOUT its continuation. Solution top tuck AOB is cut and close the dart by rotating the pattern (in this example, clockwise) relative to the point O. the Point C will move to position'. Thus obtained solution tuck S OS in a new place. The point With' connect direct with the point About'.The contours of turned parts parts round pattern.

When you transfer the Darts can meet two cases:

1) center solution new Darts (or its sequel) coincides with the center solution source tuck (see Fig. V-30, b).

2) center solution new Darts (or continued) offset from the center of the solution of the original tuck (see Fig. V-30, g, e).

In the first case, the transfer of the tuck is produced with sufficiently high precision using the methods described above.

In the second case, the exact transfer of the Darts can not be fulfilled, so the contours of the sections "basics" after the transfer of the tuck should be clarified.

Consider an example of such a transfer Darts. Thus it is necessary to distinguish two cases. If the center of the solution new tuck O' is below the center of the original tuck (Fig. V-30, V, g), the original tuck close relative to the center of the solution by Connecting the point O' with dots On and On' straight lines get one side longer than the other Darts. To eliminate the excess tissue, formed as a result of a mismatch of the centers of the original and projected Darts (Fig.V-30, in the shaded triangle and S O On) the outline of the armhole and shoulder cut bases and sides tuck specify, as shown in figures V-30 and V-30, and e (dash-dotted line).

An example is the transfer of the Darts to Princess seams, yoke, etc., in constructing which the center solution new tuck does not usually coincide with the center of the solution of the original tuck coming from the shoulder cut.

If the center of the solution new tuck O' the source is located above the tuck (Fig. V-30, e), tuck close relative to the point O", located on the continuation lines WITH' (to the line). From nesovpadenie peaks will also be generated from the excess tissue in the form of two triangles O S O" EO (shaded).

To eliminate the inaccuracies of transfer the contours of the shoulder cut armholes Refine the basics, as shown with a dash-dotted line. Final clarification of the location and solution of the new Darts are produced in the manufacturing process of the sample.

 

The creation of folds, builds, and folds

 

the Tails can be along the lines of the seams (Fig. V-31, a), undercut (Fig. V-31, b) and on the entire areas of the parts (Fig. V-31).

The tails, located in the joints, usually create the models in adjacent products. They are the most stable and do not require additional processing. Quite stable shape also have the tails coming from Podrezov.

To obtain the folds, located in the seams, give extra extension to the cuts in the tail (Fig. V-31).

The amount of extension of the parts at the bottom for the formation of tails depends on topiramate fabrics and length of the tails.

Practice, found that for boys, located on the lines of the seams extending from the waist, with average topiramate fabric (like lightweight nails), the amount of expansion of the bottom line can be approximately equal to: for small tails 4 - 5 cm in each side; for medium, 6 - 7 cm, large - 8 - 9 cm or more.

The tails extending from the undercut (Fig. V-31, b), is produced by cutting templates or tracings along the lines of undercuts and outlined tails and consistent disclosure of angles relative to their start points ABC on the value of the projected width of the tails at the bottom (see Fig. V-31, b).

As noted above, on the backs of products free form the tails provide is usually from the blades. For getting tails on the curve of the back of the free form at the location of the tails put a vertical line OS and the tie tuck coming from the shoulder cut (see Fig. V-31).

The value of the solution tuck BOV take equal to the amount of landing back on the shoulder cut the armhole BV = 2,5 - 3,0 cm). Period EOS is divided in half, noting the mid-point O'. The basis of the backrest is applied to the paper or cardboard, where points of BV and risks put a thin pencil. To the point About put the tip of compass and pattern turn to the right and left by the same amount projected tails.

The average topiramate fabric allowance coattails hem is approximately:

small for tails - 5 - 6 cm in each side;

for medium - 7 - 9 cm;

large - 10 - 12 cm and more.

For the formation of small folds a corner of their solution ∠S OS" take less of the angle of Darts in the shoulder cut of the back

∠BOV (see Fig. V-31). In this case, the angle of Darts in the shoulder seam ∠BOV > ∠S OS", so it closes completely. The design of this backrest requires a landing at the shoulder or the armhole cut.

For the formation of folds average value of the angle of the solution approximately equal to the angle of the solution tucks in the shoulder cut of the back: ∠S OS"= ∠BOV. In this case, when the abstraction of the patterns on the magnitude of the tails of the cone angle, the tuck is closed completely. This backrest does not require planting at the shoulder cut.

When designing large angle tails of their solution is more of the angle of Darts in the shoulder cut of the back: ∠S OS" > ∠BOV.

The length of the shoulder cut of the back is smaller than the length of the shoulder cut shelves. The decrease in the length of the shoulder cut of the back is allowed no more than 0,5 - 0,7 see If the amount of reduction of the shoulder cut exceeds 0.5 - 0.7 cm, the curve of the back is cut along the line OA, held horizontally in the direction of the openings. Further, for the formation of the tails of the back turn right and left until, until a point About' not the same as points B and C (until complete closure of the tuck in the shoulder cut).Further povertyline backless close the angle of the armscye curve (point a moves to point A'), reducing its length by no more than 1 - 1.5 cm, as in the molding of the back cut armholes, this value can delay. If the movement of the backrest on the width of the tails exceeds this limit (of 1.0 - 1.5 cm), after the closing of the tucks at the shoulder and cut in the armhole of the back turn right and left relative to the point O'. This increases the width of the entire back-level cut O. O

Similar to the backs to create the tails on the shelves.

Assemblies and fine creases (Fig. V-32) make the products from light fabrics (dresses, blouses) connection details: seams, undercuts, coquettes, primaqiune cuffs, etc. Assemblies are formed due to the difference in length of the connected sections. This difference must be considered when developing a design.

In Fig. V-32, a, b shows an example of the formation of assemblies in the undercuts.

The figure models on the shelves put a line of podraza AB (Fig. V-32 instead). After merging lines KB PS upper contour of Darts is closed. Points and connect a smooth curve line. The value of BS - allowance for Assembly. The allowance for the formation of assemblies can be increased due to the expansion of parts in the direction of the openings with the gathering expansion, no point of G (dashed line).

In Fig. V-32, b shows an example of Assembly design to undercut the middle front of the bodice.

Folds (Fig. V ZZ, V-34) depending on the model can be unilateral, bilateral, complex and fan. By design, the pleats may be finishing or finishing-connecting. In the women's skirts pleats can be single, continuous and shrub. The location of the folds on the parts and their length and width determined depending on the model. The approximate width of the folds in the finished form may be taken to costume jewelry is 5.0 - 7.0 cm, coats products - 4 - 7,0 see

For the formation of a unilateral folds give an allowance of 2 times the width of the pleats in the finished form, and two-way (counter and box) folds in 4 times more mentioned.

The folds located in the middle of the back, give allowances to the midline of the back (Fig. V-ZZ, a, b).

For education allowances for the folds located in the middle parts, the patterns are conventionally cut on a fold line and throw the template on the value of the stock on the crease. The allowances in the crease can be the same throughout the length of the folds (Fig. V-34, a) or different: the width of the folds at the top make less, than at the bottom, below the folds don't come apart during wear (Fig. V-34, b).