Development of designs of sleeves of different models of

 

 

Each type of cut of the sleeves has its constructive basis. Often there are two or three seams in the design of the sleeve is not connected with the artistic conception of the model and has a constructive significance. Also, the design of new models of sleeves, you must try to choose the most rational variant with minimal number of seams.

Sleeves can be narrow or wide. Sleeve length varies depending on fashion. In the top women's clothing sleeve length can vary from 3/4 to full length; lightweight dress from 1/6 to full length. The model features a sleeveless develop on the basis of the drawings of the constructive foundations of the sleeves.

Drawings basics set-in sleeves can be presented in the form of scans of parts (halves) of the sleeves, and a template having the shape and dimensions of the sleeve (Fig. V-35).

Drawings templates, sleeves can be obtained by constructing approximate calculations, methods of construction or manufactured in the following way. Ready umatyvaet sleeve in armhole and achieve the correct position. The product is put on a mannequin and record the actual line of the front rolling sleeves*, marking it with chalk or securing with pins. Further, the sleeve is separated from the openings, bend the lines front and elbow rifts, put him on a plane and outline the contours of the river bottom and cut the top part of the sleeve.

Shaped especially with the picture of the model on the template, or scan parts of the sleeve (Fig. V-36, a, b) stand in the ways described above. When using the templates sections of the sleeves relative to the deploy lines front and elbow rifts in the ways described previously.

The necessary expansion or saugeye sleeveless down produced by elbow sections of the upper and lower halves by the same amount and in the same direction.

Sleeves with pleats or ruffles at the bottom allowance for the folds and ruching on the top half are usually given more than 2 - 3 cm, than the lower, and is determined by the number and depth of wrinkles.

Sleeves slouchy at the bottom are given the allowance to sleeve length 4 - 6 cm for the formation of the inlet.

In products with low armhole (Fig. V-36, V) increase the height of the top part of the sleeves is approximately 1/3 size of the lower openings. The sleeve top is wider than normal. The magnitude of the expansion depends on the magnitude of landing on top part of the sleeve [46]. Products with long shoulder slices (Fig. V-36, d) the height of the top part of the sleeve is reduced to approximately 3/4 of magnitude lengthening of the shoulder. The width of the top part of the sleeve decreases. The design of sleeveless with ruching on top part of the "torch" (Fig.V-36, d, e) produced by cutting the bases in the middle of the crown and breeding for 6 - 12 cm with clarification of the line of the top part of the sleeves and bottom. To obtain sleeves with pleats on top part the basis of the cut in areas of folds, bred at the top by the amount of folds, as shown in Fig. V-36, E.

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* After the connection of the arm openings most of the sleeves designed for existing methods of construction, turns the upper part so that the width of the front top roll is increased by 1.5 - 2.0 cm. As a result, the elbow seam by the same amount goes to the side the top half and deteriorates the appearance of the sleeve.

 

Development of designs of collars of different models

 

With all the variety of forms of collars you can highlight several design principles:

1. Collars for products with an open clasp ("fashion"):

business suits type (Fig. V-37, a);

of the form "the shawl" (Fig. V-37, b).

2. Turn-down collars for products with combined zipper top and "on style":

for spring, autumn and winter coat (Fig. V-37, V, g),

for raincoats from rubberized fabric (Fig. V-37, d).

3. Collars for shirts with neotrazimoi and cutting stand (Fig. V-35, e).

4. Collars-stand cutting (Fig. V-37, W).

5. Collars-piece rack with shelves and backs (Fig. V-37, W).

6. Collars without racks (supine) Fig. V-37 and K) and others

To develop a constructive basis of the lower collar (or patterns for cutting) in different benefits design gives calculations and diagrams of their construction.

The design of individual complex forms of collars use the crappy method.

In the men's products all model features collars can be designed according to the standard constructive basis.

Modeling them is to define the width and shape of the departures and all. The dimensions of the key sections of the collars is not possible to measure the pattern model with sufficient accuracy. So below is the table of mean values of width departures stands and lower collars (tab. V-5).

Model shape features stands lower collars for products with an open clasp (under construction at the mouth of the goods) are defined by the fold line of the lapel.

The higher the upper loop is located, the more the curve of the form has cut the racks of the lower collar, and, conversely, what is located below the top loop (lapel long), the line cut the racks of the lower collar will have a more flat shape (Fig. V-37, l shown dash-dotted line).

In the bottom collars with a zipper top, which are constructed separately from the neck (Fig. V-37, m), the magnitude of the line segment AB can be different depending on the model. The value of this cut for standard forms of collars is equal to 1.5 - 2 cm With a decrease in the magnitude of the AB fold line stands rectified, it requires a smaller value of the delay stands in its shaping. With the increase in this segment fold line of the rack is bent stronger collar fits closer to the neck and requires a greater magnitude pulling the rack.

Some models of women's clothing along with the changing forms of collars a significant change and may undergo a shear line of the neck. For example, the collar behind the neck, the line of the cut throat deepens to 2.0 - 3.0 cm (Fig. V-37, n). For collars with "neotrezannymi racks" line of cut of the neck rises to a height of the rack (see Fig. V-37, W).

For the development of model characteristics of individual types of collars can be used uniform items lower collars. Patterns are the top collars are developing on the basis of the patterns of the lower collars with allowances for processing.