General information

 

the Primary method of determining scan of the clothing items is a technique supportive mesh. Scan detail using the auxiliary grid is determined as follows. On the surface of the model sample placed on mannequin domestic dress form, for each part applied with colored thread the suture line and the reference axis coordinates. Line welds are placed along the seams of the model. If necessary, make the appropriate adjustments to the location of the lines, seams and eliminate unnecessary seams.

The position of the reference axes on the details determined by the geodetic angle so that they were orthogonal geodesic lines and held at the same distance from the points defining the direction of the warp or weft of the fabric into parts according to the specifications of the cutting. These distances are checked according to the coordinate points that find by the formulas (4)* or developable surfaces to the measurement of geodetic lines with a straightedge.For example, according to the specifications cutting the warp threads of the fabric in the back of the two parts shall be parallel to the average cut back from waist to hem. If the axis ox is set to in the waist area (Fig. IV-17), measured along the same axis the distance between the points OA and to check the distance of the sun below the backrest define the ordinate and the abscissa OS entirely to the formulas (4, 5, 6)*. In case of discrepancies between the distances OA and BC specify the coordinate axes.In addition to the axes, ask for the details of a few control points to verify the alignment of the auxiliary grid to the surface (for example, points D, E, F, see Fig. IV-17). Determine the coordinates of these points by the same formulas (4) and prepare an auxiliary grid to match the surface. As a support mesh take a normal outline, strengthen it with the buttons on graph paper so that the direction of the threads of the mesh are coincident with the lines of graph paper.Applied to the grid of colored pencil rectangular axes, find in these axes the above control points (D, E, F) and note their position on the grid. In addition, applied to the grid of a rectangular net with cell size from 3 X 3 to 5 X 5 cm. the Position of this fixed grid on graph paper to check for correct re-alignment of the auxiliary grid with graph paper in determining the sweep of the part. Next, remove the auxiliary grid of the graph paper and strengthen it on the surface of the part pins of the axes of coordinates and control points.Combine the net with the entire surface of the part until snug to the surface so that the threads of the mesh had smooth transitions and minimal deviations from a straight angle, and the mesh has the proper technological requirements, distribution of planting or stretching the lines of stitches by changing the angle between the threads. With a pencil mark on the grid line of stitches; remove the grid from the surface and placed on a plane in the rectangular coordinate axes on graph paper, combining, like the first time, the strands of the grid lines of graph paper.Transferring line of sutures from the grid on the paper to get the scan details in chebyshevskii network.

Using the auxiliary grid, you can define the sweep for any surface much faster than the analytical or graphical method. Besides, when you define a scan using the auxiliary grid, there is no need to verify the correctness of the received sweep.In the process of overlaying the grid on the surface there is the possibility to measure the deviation of the filaments from direct angles using a conventional protractor, determine the magnitude of the deformation of the fabric by lines of stitches, as well as, if necessary, to make appropriate changes in the distribution of these strains due to the selection of the most appropriate options for layout of plots grid on the surface.To find the optimal variant of the scan, providing the best technological and other requirements for the parts, you can re-drill using the same grid in the other coordinate axes. Use the grid easily identify scanner components with Darts and pleats. It is enough in the place where you want to sample the product, to lay on the grid pleat or a tuck. Thus it is necessary to seek more possible to reduce the skew angle of the threads of the networks. If use tucks causes an increase in the skew angle of the threads, it is better to refuse them.

The amount of deformation of the fabric by lines of stitches by combining the auxiliary mesh surface can be defined by the formula (8).

The values a, b, l₁ (in formula 8) is measured along the grid, combined with the surface by narrow steel strip roulette. The value of landing or stretching of the fabric by the formula is approximate in small areas of the seam line l₁ = 1 - 5 cm depending on the curvature of the seam line on the plane. For example, the length l₁ of the plots can be on the side seams 3 - 5 cm and the armhole - 1 - 2 see it is necessary to note that in all cases, if the filaments of the mesh are along the seam line, or the angle between the filaments straight, no landing or stretching of the fabric in the seam no.If between this line and the threads of the net the angle is sharp, the fabric has a landing, as if stupid, then stretching.

The exact definition of a landing or stretching of the fabric after you find the definition of scanner on the basis of measurements of the same locations of the weld lines in the flat pattern and surface. The strain distribution of the tissue sections to record and mark the locations of the deformed parts of the scan to assist in the processing and Assembly of parts in the manufacture of products [7]. A method of determining a scan using the auxiliary grid is reminiscent of the crappy way of constructing clothes; however, between them there is a fundamental difference.The crappy method is purely practical, allowing to obtain approximate sweep empirically. After constructing the crappy way it is necessary to clarify the details during the fitting products as well as with other approximate methods of design.

In the computation of details of clothes with the help of an auxiliary mesh chebyshevskii network form directly on a given surface in relation to the theoretical conditions of its construction (parallel transfer) and simultaneously execute fitting and adjustment of parts on the same surface taking into account the technological and other requirements.Moreover, because the definition scans of parts produced by the waste before the bulk shape of the product, subject to aesthetic requirements and anthropometric measurements, execution of technological and other technical requirements of the parts, is greatly simplified and the conditions for use of engineering calculations.

The method of determination sweeps through the mesh can be applied in the design of clothing items that are ready are placed on the plane (collar, sleeves, pants, etc.), i.e. belong to the flat shells. In this case, the definition of scans is performed using templates made according to the pattern of a part or product. So, to determine the sweep of the lower collar jacket have to produce his sample, which should provide a good fit of the collar in the product worn by a human figure or mannequin model.The sample is made from a cardboard template, fold-over parts (departure) half collar (Fig. IV-18). The template is applied to the line of the cut stand (AV) in accordance with the sample and the reference axes of coordinates, given that the formation of the fold line of the collar stand made by the second method (see Fig. IV-7, b), i.e. by changing only one part of the shell stand - up collar. The smallest angle of misalignment of the threads at the bottom of the collar turns in the direction of the x-axis is parallel to the chord of the bend of the rack, and Oh at right angles to ox in the middle of the bend (see Fig. IV-18).Under the current technical conditions, the Oh axis would be along the lines of the end seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar (see dotted line in Fig. IV-18). However, in this case, a very large warp yarns that hinder the shaping of the collar. Therefore, when establishing the above directions of threads allowed deviation from the specifications of the cutting.But to this deviation did not cause stretching of the ends of the neck when setting the bottom collar, it is necessary in these areas of shelves to lay the edge on 3 to 4 inches behind the crease line of the lapel, which is usually done with existing technology.

Check the skew angle of the filaments under specified axes according to the formula (14 b): φ₀ = 4f/a.

Taking the deflection f is equal to 0.4 cm, polychord and equal to 8 cm, find φ₀ = 0.2 radians or in degrees φ₀ = 180/π ∙ 0,2 = 11°.

As can be seen, the skew angle of the threads is smaller than the permissible for fabrics (15°).

Auxiliary reinforcing mesh on graph paper, to the threads of the mesh are coincident with the lines of graph paper. On the grid, impose and reinforce the pattern of lower collar having its axis in the direction of the threads of the net. Strengthen a template to cut leaving the bottom of the collar and around the ox axis (see Fig. IV-18, a), given that with this method of education fold of the fabric is skewed filaments between the axis coordinates and a fold line (see Fig. IV-7 b). Then bend the free section of the grid, combine the corresponding thread with the axis OU and fix.Then wrap around the mesh edge of the template along the line of bend and secured the mesh to the cutting line of the strut and the middle line of the lower collar (Fig. IV-18, b). Applied to the grid-the outline of the line of cut of the rack, peel back the mesh to its original position, combining its threads with lines of graph paper. So get a scan of the lower collar, which is easily molded when processing on-press or hand-iron.

The method of the auxiliary mesh can be applied to determine sweep of all major items of outerwear: backs, shelves, sleeves, collar, parts, of trousers and other products. Scanner parts shelves, the backs, the upper part of the sleeves is determined by the product worn by a model mannequin domestic dress form corresponding to that type of product, the completeness of the figure and the model type (adjacent, poluprilegayuschy-free fit).Scan the details of the collar, the lower parts of the sleeves, trousers, netrezvye of podborta define both the sweep of flat membranes according to patterns taken from samples. Product samples should be made on the standard figures adopted in the design of clothing.

The mannequin, which fits the specimen to determine the scan detail needs to be well adjusted and a sample of the product in its dimensions to conform to the report card measures. The fit of the dummy to produce an attachment on the surface of the strips of foam rubber or several layers of fabric. To determine the scan details of coats free-form, you can apply the dummy surface for the free parts of the product obtained using the wire frame.

Scan details of the samples are determined on the average size and length of the products. According to him, design patterns details taking into account the allowances for processing and the thickness of the material, first for secondary and then for all sizes and lengths of products of methods of technical reproduction.

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* The formula see here.

 

The back

 

Sweep is different backrests determine the positioning axis OU a backrest on the axis of symmetry of the details in the back up of two parts - a plumb line passing through the most projecting point of the blade *.

The backs of the two parts of the axis OU are advised to ask so that it passes through the upper end of the shoulder seam. However, in this case, the axis does not pass through the outermost point of the blades. As a result, in the finished product the bottom of the back might be deflected to the outer side from its normal position. Therefore, it is better that the axis of the Ow passed through the projecting point of the blade.

The axis ox in the back and adjacent poluprilegayuschy products ask in the waist area orthogonal to the axis Oy (Fig. IV-19). The products free form the axis ox have the bottom of the upper support surface of the product slightly below the most convex part of the blades.

For a more precise definition of sweep by means of auxiliary grid must be determined by the formulas (4) coordinates of control points that are asked in the middle of the arm openings and center lines of the side seam between waist and bottom of the back. Deformation (fit) fabric by combining the mesh with the surface of the backrest is distributed along the line of the shoulder seam from 0 to 0.5 cm and the armhole from 0 to 0.8 cm depending on the product model. The entire backs of adjacent articles provides for stretching tissue along the line of the side seam in the waist area due to the change of the angle between the threads.It is expedient for the whole of the back of adjacent products first determine the scan in two parts; to make this scan a template and use it to find a scan of the back as a flat shell, using the first method of formation curve of the crease line of the fabric (see Fig. IV-7). To determine this breakdown, using the auxiliary grid take the edge of the template midline of the back over the axle OU orthogonal to it find in the template the axis ox at the waist.Fix a coordinate axis of the support grid, caused by its warp and weft on the template and combine them with the grid, positioning its thread in parallel to the ox axis. Form the same template to produce the molding back on the press or iron. Further processing is done with account of deformation that is installed during the initial scan, which was determined for the backrest in two parts.

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* A plumb line you can define a string with the suspended load.

 

Shelf

 

When determining the sweep of the shelves solid or with a detachable side part of the axis OU have in different places depending on the design boards. For shelves with a cutting podborany axis OU set so that it passes at the apex of the convexity of the chest (Fig. IV-19 b).

The shelves with neotrezannymi podborany this axis (Fig. IV-19) feature on edge of a Board or line prosanos products. A OU the axis in the shelves of women's clothing with front seam passing through the bulge of the breast. At the side of the shelves axis is approximately in the middle of OU details for plumb. The axis ox is usually asked in the waist area and sometimes in the region of convexity of the breast. The reference point for precision alignment of the grid is determined, as in the back in the middle openings, and at the middle of the bottom line segment of the side seam. The deformation of the tissue distributed in the front portion of the arm openings;moreover, when the location of the axis Oy through the side it is considerably more (up to 0.9 - 1.2 cm) than at the location of the axis of convexity of the breast (0.5 - 0.7 cm). But in the latter case, the fabric is deformed through the bead in the region of the lapel on 0,5 - 0,7 cm.

Scan shelves neotrezannymi podborany initially define as well as shelves cutting podborany, providing an allowance in the net from the side to determine the scan podborta.

After removing the mesh on its surface and securing it on graph paper fixed on a grid pattern podborta and wrap around its edges at side and lapel-free portion of the grid, with its filament parallel to the axis ox (Fig. IV-20). On the grid cause the line of the inner edge, the upper and lower ends of podborta, peel back the mesh to its original position and get a line scan podborta (Fig. IV-20 b). For a more accurate determination of the line of the inner edge of the bend proberta template with a grid on the fold line of the lapel for education inlet in podborta.Thus it is possible to scan shelves with neotrezannymi podborany for models of products having different shape collars and lapels. In the sides with rounded bottom plots use the seams in these areas.

Moreover, to ensure a smooth line side top end of this seam a little below the point of junction between the straight and rounded section of the bead (Fig. IV-20).

For the lapels, with a big bulge, you can do the tuck on the shelves for the purpose of positioning strips of fabric parallel to the edge of the lapel (Fig. IV-20 b). Tuck lay in the superimposition of the pattern on the grid so that the thread direction of the mesh coincided with the edge of the top portion of the lapel. While threads of the grid is not aligned with the edge of the lower section of the lapel, if you switch to the line side edge of the lapel has a concave shape. As a result, the patterned tissues stripes potrebnih podborta will not be located parallel to the edge of the lower portion of the lapel.However, such deflection of the strips of fabric in the lower portion of the lapel and allow the cutting podborta, when the edge of the lapel in the transition to the line side has a concave shape. This design potrebnih of podborov used even with a small concavity in the lower end of the lapel in products from the tissues with the Dacron, which are difficult to wet-heat treatment at usual methods of molding fabrics.

Laying on the mesh tuck for the formation of the convex shape of the edges of the top portion of the lapel at the shelves with neotrezannymi podborany can be produced during alignment of the grid shelf on the dummy: In this case one can reduce the deformation of tissue through the openings by increasing the solution tuck. In particular, in women's clothing, which is used in the upper a tuck coming from the shoulder seam, deformation of the fabric at the armhole can be significantly reduced. At the same time through the same tuck in a dress turns out the concave edges of the upper portion of the lapel.

Thus, shelves neotrezannymi podborany can be used in a variety of models of clothes. Moreover, their use greatly improves the appearance of products, simplifies the technology of manufacturing and saves tissue by eliminating excess allowances on processing and more rational forms of shelves.

 

Sleeve

 

The reamer sleeve is determined in two stages: first the upper part of the sample model on the mannequin, and then the lower pattern on the plane. For the upper sleeves are made with a thin layer of foam of the appropriate form, and insert it in the sleeve. The direction of the coordinate axes is determined according to the specifications on the nest. Axis OU set so that it passes parallel to the straight line connecting the ends of the concave line of the front edge of the sleeve, which is determined by the sample model on the mannequin (Fig. IV-21).The axis ox for the upper sleeves are fitted at right angles to the axis Oy at the upper end of the front seam (at the level transition point of the concave line of the front edge of the sleeve in a convex line). You need to pay attention to the Oh axis is held exactly at right angles to the axis Oy, since the deviation from straight angle lead to inaccurate alignment of scans of the upper and lower parts of the sleeves.

An auxiliary grid combined with the top of the sleeve at the minimum possible warp threads of the mesh and fix its coordinate axes, the seam of the armhole and at the end of the elbow joint. The arm mesh is fixed first pins, and then thread, which is tightened to mesh tightly to the seam of the armhole (Fig. IV-21 b). The grid line is applied to the upper end of the elbow seam of the armhole (between the elbow and the front seam) and the control signs. The grid is removed, find it on graph paper scan top of the sleeves and determine the fit of the fabric on the areas of the openings.

The sample models are put on the dummy, fix (zametyvayut) concave line of the front edge of the sleeve, while maintaining its position and shape, which has a sleeve in the product on the mannequin. Separate the sleeve from the product and it made template, having it rectangular axes (ox, Oy), line the upper end of the elbow joint and the bottom of the openings in accordance with the sample (Fig. IV-21). Specify line elbow weld to the lower portion passed through the edge of the template.The upper part of the elbow seam should be placed as close as possible to the edge of the template (with the deviation at the upper end of 0.7 - 1 cm) or completely, to align with the edge of the template as it is doing in men's suits abroad. Make the necessary adjustments to the shape of the front edge of the sleeve, in order to obtain the corresponding deflection and a straight line connecting its ends, are parallel to the axis Oy. In the most concave point of the front edge of the template (usually in the middle .this region), a second axis And at right angles to the axis Oy and parallel to it an additional axis Out.To sweep sleeves with front seam put a line of this seam at an appropriate distance from the front edge of the template.

An auxiliary grid, which was determined by unfolding the upper part of the sleeve is fixed on the graph paper, the grid pattern reinforcing, aligning its axes with the axes ox and OU. The front edge of the pattern together with mesh strengthen the axis OU from the bottom to the scan lines of the upper section of the sleeve. The scan determined the same as for a collar. In the sleeves without the front seam mesh combine no distortion of its strands at the site of the armhole, the elbow seam to cut openings in this area is not stretched during the processing of the sleeve (Fig. IV-21 b).Concave line of the front edge of the sleeve is obtained by the first method of formation curve of the crease line of the fabric (see Fig. IV-7, b) due to misalignment of the strands of the grid lower halves of sleeves on 8 - 10'. Shaping sleeveless front seam is hot pressed on the template to the grinding of the elbow joint.

A breakdown of the ACC bottom cap sleeves define the template that is produced in the form of bottom line in the scan. For double seam sleeveless sweep of the upper half of the line is determined by the front seam (see Fig. IV-21, and, dotted lines). Scan the bottom half of this sleeve is determined by the lines of stitches applied to the template (Fig. IV-22). The use of the whole sleeves improves product quality, simplifies processing and saves fabric by eliminating the allowances for seams and more rational forms part.

 

Collar

 

Sweep of the collar is determined for the lower collar and upper collar separately. Scan the top of the collar to receive the same as the lower collar (see Fig. IV-18), but the pattern, made the whole length of the collar. When making this template, it is necessary to provide allowance for the rounding of the upper collar the lower collar along the fold stands. The axis of reference coordinate set in the template according to the specifications of cutting: the OU axis at the midline of the collar, the axis ox orthogonal to the Ow at the point of intersection with the fold line of the rack.In this position of the coordinate axes, the skew angle of the threads of the fabric at the top of the collar is obtained approximately two times more compared with the skew angle for the bottom of the collar (over 20').

However, the maximum skew angle of the thread in the upper collar turns at the ends of the fold line of the strut, where it has a small width. Due to this, a significant part of the bias is due to the shift of some threads of the fabric against the other. Using this feature, you can use the collar without cutting the bottom of the collar. To determine the sweep of such a collar is made of two basic patterns corresponding to the shape of the departure, and one auxiliary pattern corresponding to the shape of the collar stand (Fig. IV-23).On the main templates cause the line of cut of the rack (AB) and the axis of coordinates (x, y) in the direction of the threads of the fabric in the upper collar.

On the secondary mesh, reinforced on graph paper first, placed and secured one main template in the same way as when defining sweep the bottom of the collar. The free area of the mesh bend around the edge of the departure of the collar with the second main template, combining it with a grid with the first pattern (Fig. IV-23, b). While threads of the mesh parallel to the axis Oy. Next, the two free parts of the mesh bend around the edge fold of the rack by means of auxiliary template, moving it along with the mesh on the plane of the basic pattern (Fig. IV-23).The threads of the mesh and in this case parallel to the axis Oy. After application of the lines of the ledges and cut the strut collar on the grid turn the grid to its original position, combine it with the thread lines of the graph paper and get a scan of the whole collar (Fig. IV-23, g). Treatment of the whole collar should be made on the new technology by molding it with the help of devices having the form of templates, which were determined by the sweep of the collar. To secure the shape of the collar, the bottom collar replacement, it is necessary to apply the gasket with a drawing on it of powder adhesive.Form of scan strip is defined as a form of sweep of the cutting of the lower collar. The ends of the whole process obecnym collar seam or hem. The use of the whole collar improves the quality of the product and simplifies the technology of its manufacture, which allows for comprehensive mechanization of the processing in various types of clothes.

 

The main parts of the pants

 

Scan the details of the pants is determined by the template having the shape of the product, laid on the plane (Fig. IV-24). On the template put lines: lateral, step and middle seams on the model of the product. Axis OU a bend line of the front halves of trousers, the axis ox is orthogonal to it in the knee region. To reduce the bias yarns of the fabric on the rear half of the pants are set the additional axis And, positioning it at a right angle to the chord of the concave side of the fold line of the fabric, around the middle of this line*. An additional axis Oud is applied from the lower end of the chord parallel to the axis Oy.Then on the auxiliary mesh mounted beforehand on graph paper, place the template, directing its main axes Oh, Oh on the threads of the mesh. The template is fixed on the primary and secondary axes and wrap around the side of the hand free parts of the grid to align them with the plane of the template. The threads of a grid parallel to the main and additional axes of abscissa (Oh, OHT).

To eliminate deformation (landing) tissue along the line of the seam thread mesh curve, so that near this line, the grid cells were not skewed, that is, was rectangular (see Fig. IV-13, b). After application to the grid lines of stitches and placing her free plots on graph paper with the direction of the threads along the lines of the graph paper get scan the bottom of the main parts of the trousers (see Fig. IV-24). The line of the side seam parts is applied in accordance with the location of this line on the template.Thus it is possible to determine the details of the pants simple form (for slumber, ski suits, industrial and special clothing).

The method allows to determine the sweep of the pants of any shape, without side with side seams. But its use for dress and other household pants clothing gives a significant deviation from the applicable technical specifications cutting, according to which the warp threads of the fabric shall be parallel with the fold line of the rear halves of the pants below the knee. This requirement leads to the fact that in the existing design of the pants stripes patterned fabrics are placed at different angles to the line of the side seam that impairs the outer appearance of the product.This requirement of technical terms does nothing for the stability of the shape of the pants, so the lower area of their back half is not subjected to stretching during wear.

The appearance of the pants significantly improved on the side of the fabric is maintained without distortion. Therefore, based on the method of determining scan you can design the best design of pants from an aesthetic point of view. For rational use of fabrics in the manufacture of suiting pants without side seams to improve ukladyvaetsya parts in the layout patterns due to the design of the shelves of the jacket with a detachable sidewall. Based on the scan chebyshevskii network, you can improve the design of the pants, keeping the requirements of the applicable technical specifications.To do this, ask on the template corresponding to the source axis. On the front half of the pattern axis a as in the previous case: the axis O. on the front edge of the template, the axis ox is orthogonal to it along the line of the knee (Fig. IV-25). In the back half of the pants line of the fold of tissue is formed in different ways: in the lower part below the knee on the first method, in which a filament fabric is on the fold line; in the upper part - by the third method without combining threads with the line of bending with simultaneous bending of the threads of the fabric in both parts.In accordance with this template for the rear halves of the pants Out axis a below the knee around the edge of the template, above it on a curve, the deflection of which is determined by K = 2 by the formula f = aφ₀/2, where a - polukord, which is taken equal to the distance between the axis ox and the point D located at the lower end of the pocket; φ₀ is the skew angle of the threads of the fabric of the rear halves of the pants from the side seam, which is taken to be no more than 5 - 6' (0.1 rad).

With this angle of warp threads warp of the fabric according to the formula (12) becomes so small (0.15 - 0.2 cm), not taken into account when grinding the side sections. The x-axis Of rear halves of the pants for side parts have on the level of the knee at a right angle to the fold line. This axis may be adopted for the stepping part of the back half. But to reduce the deformation of the fabric along the seam lines specify additional axis And, positioning it closer to the middle of the concave side of the fold line at a right angle thereto (see Fig. IV-25).

Next, determine using the auxiliary grid scan of the front and rear halves of the pants separately. Scan of the front halves is determined in the same way as in the previous case. In determining the sweep of the rear halves of first pin grid on one side of the template along the axis Out, combining with her one thread of the mesh. On the same side of the template is fixed the second line of the grid along the axis Ah. Combine the mesh with the surface of the pattern between the line of the side seam and the axis Out and fix this part of the mesh near the line of the side seam.Then bend the mesh, combine and fix it on the other side of the template, positioning its thread (mesh) first in parallel to the secondary axis And. Then bend the threads of the axle to eliminate deformation (landing) tissue along the seam lines and fix the mesh (see Fig. IV-13). On the grid carry the line all the seams and edges of the template and graph paper in a rectangular coordinate axes to get the scan. Scan details on the pattern in the upper portion of the pants (above the level of the lower end of the side pocket) is determined approximately, as they do not fit on the plane.Their final form is determined using the same mesh on the model of the pants dressed on the dummy inner form. For this, scans of the grid obtained by the templates, made the shell, providing an allowance of 3 - 5cm on the top edge of the pants, line the middle seam and fasteners where their shape is determined approximately. Stepper seam and the lower portion of the side seam (from bottom to the level of the lower end of the clasp on the pants) sew. So the bottom line of the middle seam is not stretched, lay it on a string, setting the length of the line pattern.Wear the shell on a sample of the product, combine it and consolidate on the sample along the lines of stepper, lateral and lower portion of the middle seam. In addition, the lower edge of the shell is fixed on the line of control, which advance is applied to the sample and transferred to the template and sweep and detail in their construction (see Fig. IV-25), the dotted line ABC.

A sample of the product with a fortified it by the shell put on the dummy inner form of the upper part of the pants. Free portions of the shell mesh is combined with the sample surface so that the mesh fits snugly surface with the minimum deviation of the filaments from a straight angle (Fig. IV-26, a), lay on the grid of folds and tucks in accordance with the sample. If necessary, find the most suitable location tucks, options scan without tucks with cutting or without cutting the belt. For pants without side seams lay on the grid to tuck in the end of the line of this seam.The mesh is fixed with pins and applied to the centerline of the upper edge, seam, belt, pleats, tucks, upper sections of the side and middle seams and fasteners, and location of pockets. Parts of the shell separated and put on graph paper, which caused the previously received scan of items of pants. Combine the control lines for the stepper, side and middle seams; the threads with the lines of graph paper. Transferred from the grid on the paper lines the seams and edges, thus obtaining the final shape of the scanner the main parts (Fig. IV-26, b).

Scan the top of the pants can be determined graphically, since it is a quadrilateral КЕFD where tucks, creases, edge fastener and the upper edge of the trousers are initially formed as straight lines, their position in the scan is determined by the direction of the axis Oy (Fig. IV-27). Accordingly, when constructing a scan graphic process is carried out from the upper end of the lower part of the sweep point To the received pattern using the auxiliary grid, straight line edge fasteners parallel to the axis Oy, the length of which (l) is determined by the sample model.

From the top of the zip lines (point E) is performed under an angle of 90 - 95° to OTS axis a straight line the top of the pants and on it lay a distance between the edge of the zipper, line the middle seam, Darts, pleats (a, a ...) and allowances (R, R ...), defined on the sample model. Must be maintained the size of the pants along the seam of the belt. The value of the solution side tuck pants without side seams 5 - 7 see

At a distance of the width of the belt (4 cm) from the top edge of the pants to hold the line of the seam zone and from she lay the length of the tucks and folds (l₁, l₂ ...) in accordance with the sample model. The length of the side Darts 15 - 17, see point defined by the measurements a, a ..., hold the straight line of the tucks and folds. Line the middle seam of the trousers at the upper end (at a distance of 6 - 7 cm) is placed in a straight line parallel to the axis OU and below has a small bump (0.5 - 0.7 cm, depending on the model). Also with a small bulge lines are side Darts.For good landing of the pants on the figure should line the top of the pants to clarify the deviation from a straight line along the middle seam at 1 - 1.5 cm, lateral tuck 0.5 - 0.7 cm (Fig. Fig. IV-27, dotted line).

Based on the scans obtained with the auxiliary mesh and held in this calculations, design of items of clothing taking into account allowances for shrinkage of the fabric, the seams, the thickness of the fabric and define the basic requirements for molding, processing and Assembly of parts and peculiarities of technology of manufacturing products in mass production.To the products of mass production shouldn't change the volumetric shape of parts due to the displacement of the reference axes coordinates relative to the adopted position on the sample models, allowance for shrinkage of tissue must be give on all sides of the sweep (circle). The magnitude of these allowances is determined by the percentage of tissue shrinkage (1 - 2%) and individual dimensions base: width - the right and left of the axis Oy, length - above and below the ox axis.

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* Depending on the shape of the crease line of the rear halves of the pants And position of the axis can be slightly changed by combining the auxiliary grid to reduce the bias yarns of the fabric.