Work of clothing items

 

When worn clothing items and the connecting seams are exposed to simple and complex loads with constant and variable character. Observations [17, 16, 19] showed that in the process of wearing civilian and military clothing it is affected by multiple, relatively small values of the load, causing various deformities in different parts of the clothing. In areas where body sizes smaller clothing sizes, the material is loose, forming folds, bends, etc. In areas where the size of the body, temporarily be more sizes of clothing, the material is experiencing tension.

In [16, 17] identified the areas of greatest deformation. This seam openings in the middle and especially the lower part and the upper area of the side seam, i.e. areas directly adjacent to the breast line, where there is the greatest change in body size [18].

It must be borne in mind that exclusion of deformation of the material of clothes is not always guaranteed sufficient allowance for the free fit. This is due to the fact that the work materials in clothes not only depends on the ratio of sizes of clothing and body, but also from the design of clothing. In particular, great importance is the presence of such parts as the sleeve, especially if he is not able to move freely along the arm.

The repeated action of a small tensile loads causing fatigue of materials, which manifests itself in education on the details of the bulges in the knees, elbows, pockets etc. Due to the deformation worsens the appearance of clothing and can be the destruction of tissue. To preserve the size and shape of the garment it is essential that the materials have sufficient elastic properties.

To reduce the uneven deformation of clothing materials in the socks before the designers have a challenging task of creating this design of clothes to wear which materials would work on all sections in equal conditions. For this purpose, the areas of maximum deformation provided intermediate parts, perceiving at part load: the side strip to the shelves, dolevikov in pockets, Trouser lining etc.

From contact with the body, other layers of clothes and outdoor items clothing items experience friction, resulting in wear and tear of clothing materials and its destruction. It was established [11, 19] that the wear does not take place simultaneously over the entire surface of the product, and first in the most vulnerable areas with low wear of the other parts of the product. Analysis of wear of the costume shows that the fastest tissue is destroyed in the pants at the creases of the bottom, in the zone (at the point of contact with the seat belt buckle), on knees, pockets;in the jacket at the folds bottom of sleeves, sides, hem, jacket, pockets, inside collar, elbow sleeves; underwear - on shirts in the upper part of the back; the pants under the pocket outerwear on the knees and also at the middle seam.

The destruction of tissue in one or more places, the product becomes unfit for further use.

A survey of 445 24B pants and jackets, held TSNIISHP [19] showed that the trousers wear out much faster than jackets. Tentative dates socks pants from 2 months. up to 3 years, with about half of all pants (42%) had a wear time of 6 months. up to 1 year. Time socks jackets from 6 months. up to 3 years.

Based on the fact that tissue destruction in outer clothing occur mainly on bends, it must be concluded that to increase the durability of a man's suit, it is first necessary to improve the durability of joints, for example protecting them with braid. The durability of the lace needs to be higher than the fabric so that the folds do not wear out before the onset of full costume wear[19]. In particular, the use of tape recommended TSNIISHP for the following areas: around the perimeter of the folds of the bottom of the pants and sleeves, and side pockets instead of obrazek.

To improve the wear resistance of other parts of the suit (belt, stepped wedge zone of the knees and the seat in the pants) you need to change their design (use of knee pads, etc., in production clothes).

One of the ways to improve the durability of fur garments is the cutting of the skins, given the topography durability of hair: the durability of products made from more durable parts, can increase by 15 - 20% [14].

The wear of the lining occurs from the friction of underwear is often damp from sweat. There is a low durability of existing tissues lining [19]. Wear it usually comes earlier, than wear out items top. Often before the onset of tissue destruction top the lining is completely or partially replaced. The sequence of destruction of the lining of the lower part of the sleeves, the location of the pockets, the elbow part of the sleeves, the lower part of the lining. The Trouser lining collapses on his knees from the combined action of tensile and abrasive efforts, as well as in the locations of the pockets.Destruction is often seen burlap.

Improving the wear resistance of the lining is a very important task. TSNIISHP it is estimated that new kinds of lining fabrics should have a wear time of at least 2 years, ie equal to average term of socks fabrics at the top.

 

The stiffness of clothing

 

Clothing for different purposes has different stiffness. On the stiffness of the garment as a whole and its individual parts is affected by the method of stitching, but the main influence of the stiffness of the clothing materials.

To stiffen individual clothing items (shelves, collars, sleeves niscom) use a strip that is joined with the details of top thread or adhesive mount.

The optimal stiffness of a garment are poorly understood. With low rigidity in some cases, insufficient sustainable form of clothing; the increased rigidity impedes movement, reduces the durability of clothing items, especially at the folds, stopping to give the product the desired three-dimensional shape. For example, when using the insulating gaskets of foam rubber, which has high rigidity, the product is a bad fit figure, resulting in increased ventilation of clothes.Therefore, when designing winter coats with the use of foam is recommended to provide a tightly buttoned collar, belt, etc. To reduce the rigidity of the strip of foam rubber it is recommended to make two layers by 3 to 4 mm each. With one layer it is recommended to put along the entire length of the product, and the second is only 2/3 of its length. On the sleeves winter wear in temperate climates dual layer of foam, it is advisable to put only on the upper halves [4].

 

Efficiency clothing designs

 

One of the factors that determine the rationality of the design of clothing is its profitability, expressed by the cost. Reducing the cost of clothing is one of the most important tasks of the clothing industry.

Sewing products are material-intensive goods because the cost of basic and auxiliary materials in the total cost price of clothing is about 80 - 90%. Reducing material consumption by only 1% makes it possible to save the scale of the garment industry (in 1963) to more than 80 million rubles [20].

Disposable loss of tissue, according TSNIISHP [20], are: magicalia losses in the layouts of 0.5 - 1.0%, the loss in length of fabric of 0.1 - 0.2% loss in width of the flooring of 0.2 - 0.5%, and irrational (wanaume) residues of 0.1 - 0.2% of

the Bulk of the consumption rates of the fabric in the clothes is the area of the parts. The use of rational design of parts, developed on the basis of a new, more accurate design methods, elimination of unnecessary seams in clothing, allowances for clarification of details, etc., can reduce the consumption of tissues on the average from 1 to 3%.

To assess the effectiveness of newly created adopted for the mass production of fashion Houses, models were instructed to develop rules starting with the application of sketches of the layout patterns.

The same items of clothing can be made of different materials having different cost. For example, instead of costly linen side strips are still widely used strip of nonwoven, which cost several times cheaper than the cost of linen crinoline.

In a heat-proof sports clothes, men's and children's expensive batting should be replaced by strips of foam rubber, having along with the other advantages of low cost, etc.

 

the Adaptability of clothing designs

 

One of the important requirements that needs to be considered when designing mass production is the adaptability of the garment construction.

Under manufacturability design clothing is understood to mean the design of parts, assemblies and products in General, which allows their production in mass production to use the most advanced processing technology with high productivity and high product quality.

Manufacturability of the design depends on such factors as the constructive and technological continuity models, typification, unification and standardization of construction elements, products, design improvement, etc.

Constructive and technological continuity models is that in the new model, applied design of parts and components, previously developed and utilized in the production.

Great value at the same time give the development on the same constructive basis of several models of clothes ("models") .

The essence of modeling method on the same constructive basis is immutable within the set of models of main parts: shelves, backs, sleeves connected nodes (joints) with a maximum variety of appearance products. Diversity is achieved through the use of a collar, pockets, buckles of various shapes, a variety of finishes, using fabrics of different colors, etc. While the design of main parts (back, shelves, sleeves), and intermediate details: linings and pads develop once for several models.Technical reproduction patterns of the main parts is also performed only once.

This method was first applied to some Houses models of the Soviet Union in B0-ies [21, 22]. Currently works on modeling on the same constructive basis of Buildings models from Moscow, Leningrad, Kiev, Gorky, Minsk and others, as well as experimental shops of factories and experienced technical laboratories [23 - 26, 28]. In the GDR, Czechoslovakia and other countries this method is considered one of the most progressive directions in modeling and clothing design.

The use of a common constructive basis of the design of new models of clothes can significantly extend the range several times to reduce labor costs for the development of drawings and technical documentation, to facilitate the launch of new models in production and 30 to 40% reduction in the time needed for their development [26]. At the same time increase the quality of the products, as the new models have the same technological processing units: sleeve, backless, gasket parts, lining, installation of products.

Typing involves the mixing of various designs of products to the minimum required number of types (typical designs) with certain sizes, shapes and quality.

The number of model structures depends on the type of clothing. For example, under women's clothing more than male clothing.

Standardization of designs is to bring diverse forms of parts and components within each type of uniformity without sacrificing quality, appearance of products and consumers ' interests.

Normalization and standardization are reduced to establishing uniform standards for the measurement quantities of the individual structural elements of the standardized clothing items. Under standardization it is understood no mechanical selection established the averaged characteristics on the basis of scientific analysis, and the selection and securing of the optimal solution [27].

Insignificant, unjustifiable differences in design and sizes of similar items not affecting appearance, seriously complicate the work of experimental and cutting shops of factories for the preparation of new models for launch in production, and in sewing shops do not allow not only to automate the production, but even the use of small-scale mechanization*. These drawbacks may not be of common parts.

Unification should be the main parts (back, shelves, sleeves) and the small details, especially details that do not affect appearance (piping, burlap pockets, valves, leaflets, etc.).

On the basis of extensive work on the standardization of the main parts of the top, lining, gaskets and parts pockets men's suits, conducted the Leningrad House of models (LDM) [23], compiled albums of standardized parts. An example of the unification of the main parts of the jacket are given on the next page.

The number of standard pockets: top, side and inner jacket, side and rear pockets in the pants was defined LDM on the basis of the fashion trends in 1964/65 thus, the side pocket of his jacket has only two forms: straight and sloping, differing by the location on the shelves and form valves.

Based on two standard side pockets, a standardized form of valves (two for direct pocket: for single-breasted and double-breasted jacket and one slant pocket). For example, the valve is a straight pocket built so that its front section was vertical, and the rear slice is carried out at a right angle to the line of the cut pocket. The valves for single-breasted jackets front corner is rounded, corresponding in its form to the rounded bottom side. Valve slant pocket built so that its upper and lower sections were positioned at an angle to the vertical side of cut (Fig. V-3).

Also unified form of otacek, Podzorov and neskowin (Fig. V-3 a, b, C, d). Dolevik not depend on the shape of the pocket, so has only one form.

The normalization of measurements of standardized parts to produce pockets by size groups regardless of fullness and growth. The first group includes sizes 44 - 50, second 52, and 62, it simplifies the technical reproduction patterns of all the small parts pockets. Length of valve, piping, valance, dolevik, as well as the width of the burlap do not change within the size of your group. The width of these parts (in a sack - length) set the same for all sizes, Rostov, fittings and models. Calculations to build a standardized small parts pockets are given in [23].

LDM unified design details of the lining and the side strip (Fig. V-4). Drawings of parts of the lining and making patterns-standards produced for each style, and once a season at different completeness and silhouettes.

Construction drawing and production side of the strip, as well as lining are produced once a season, separately for single-breasted and double-breasted blazers, regardless of the model's silhouette and fullness, in which it is produced.

Similar works were held in Leningrad garment factory "Red worker" [28] on the unification of parts of men's shirts (Fig. V-5) and Odessa sewing Association imeni Vorovskogo [26] for the unification of parts of costumes for boys and. the Use of standardized parts in different combinations allows you to create a variety of models, differing from each other in appearance.

The unification not only of clothing, but also three-dimensional shapes of products. This applies primarily to departmental, as well as men's outerwear. Unifying three-dimensional shape of the garment will contribute to the mechanization of the wet-heat treatment of products, will unify the pillow presses for molding three-dimensional parts (shelves, jackets, coat, the rear halves of the pants, etc.) and three-dimensional shape steam-air dummies for molding of finished products.

Simultaneously with the unification of forms of parts, normalization and standardization of their size, should be addressed issues of unification and normalization methods processing.

The improvement of the design of a number of parts of clothes produced by eliminating unnecessary seams (on edge of a Board, collar, front seam, sleeves, etc.), to simplify the shape of the individual parts.

Without compromising quality, appearance of products and the interests of consumers, the designer must choose a more rational constructive solution of a particular node or item in General, use standard parts and so on, which allows to mechanize and automate the processes of technological processing of products. The selection and approval of new models of clothes for the garment factories should take into account the possibility of production within the flow products of different designs and styles, and also constructive and technological continuity with the replacement of some patterns by others.

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* For example, at the Leningrad factory "Red worker" before 1959, produced men's outerwear men's shirts and collars had 40 varieties of departures and 9 varieties of racks. At the same time in the finished product almost did not differ from each other [28].

 

LITERATURE

 

4. Kolesnikov P. A. Thermal insulation properties of clothing. Publishing house "Light industry", 1965.

11. Performance properties of fabrics and modern methods of their assessment, under the General editorship of P. A. Kolesnikova. Wasteheat, 1960.

14. Tserevitinov B. F. Scientific bases of commodity science of fur products. Thesis, MTILP, 1965.

16. Pankova L. N. A study of the magnitude and distribution of forces of tissue expansion during the operation of clothing. Thesis, MIT, 1951.

17. The B. A. Buzov was About methods of measuring the warp tension of the fabric in clothing. Proceedings of MTELP, 1959, No. 12.

18. The B. A. Buzov was the Analysis of distribution of increases in body size with the movements of a person to design clothes. Yuspie the works of MTILP, 1960. No. 17.

19. Gushchina, K. G. To the question of enhancing the resistance to wear male costume. Research works TSNIISHP, Gisleham, 1957, No. 6.

20. Make fuller use of the reserves. Sib. "Sewing industry", 1963, No. 6.

21. Koshelev, G. G., a New method of making patterns. "Light industry", 1952, No. 8.

22. A progressive method of modeling undeservedly forgotten. Sib. "Sewing industry", 1961, № 4.

23. Tsarev N. And. Smirnov M. I., Kudryashov V. N. The unification of parts of the male costume. New equipment and technology for clothing manufacture, vol. 10, L., 1963.

24. Titova S. S. Modeling and designing in the conditions of mass production. Sib. "Sewing industry", 1961, № 2.

25. Kosova, T. V. Modeling and designing clothes in factory conditions. Sib. "Sewing industry", 1961, № 4.

26. Kaplan V. M., M. M. Turkenich Experience of creating clothing from standardized parts. Sib. "Sewing industry", 1964, № 3.

27. Methodology and practice of standardization. Publishing house of the State Committee of standards, measures and measuring instruments of the USSR, M., 1965.

28. Capitina O. L., Egorova N. And. The unification of the upper parts of the shirts, a series of "Sewing industry", vol. 4, l, 1962.