GENERAL PROVISIONS

 

When creating new clothing designs at the present time, various methods of approximate construction of development of parts (drawing cut).

For many centuries clothing items received a fake way. With the crappy way any calculations do not produce. To obtain the pattern parts on a mannequin or on a human figure and impose a piece of paper or cloth and on it draw the outlines of the parts in accordance with body structure and style of the product. The form parts are precise when cutting, sewing and fitting of the sample.

The crappy method is still used in the manufacture of theatrical costumes, in combination with other methods in modeling and designing women's easy dresses where you can meet detail, Darts, draping complex shapes.

In the mid-NINETEENTH century in Russia and other countries, there are various calculation methods of the design, gradually forcing the crappy method. The authors of these methods, called systems of cutting, the cutters were synthesized his years of experience in the form of simple calculations to drawings cut.

Of all payment methods (scale, method parts, the estimated-maroony) most prevalent in our country and abroad have received settlement maroony method and one of its varieties - coordinate system. The coordinate system in the Soviet Union are best described by S. N. Korotkov.

Currently there are several dozens of different systems of cutting, published in numerous benefits for the design clothing.

System of cutting, originally intended to facilitate the work of the cutters in the individual production of clothing, has been applied to design of mass production. At the same cutting measurements, remove directly from the customer, was replaced by a design based on a simple proportional dependency on the leading of dimensional measurements of chest girth and growth. This method received the name of the proportionally - calculated method of construction.

Using proportional, the authors of the system of cutting based on the fact that supposedly all the people that have the same size and height, have similar shapes, called "conditionally normal" or "proportional-stacked shapes". Each author gives his definition of "conditionally normal" figures, so the calculations of subordinate characteristics depending on the leading in these various systems. For example, the measure of the width of the back SHS for male figures in different systems of cutting can be calculated in different ways (tab. 111-1).

All currently known systems of cutting are a kind of form to repeat the drawings some of the most successful designs of clothing. The primary patterns of these designs are usually empirically, using previously developed drawings of typical designs or old models that have common features with the new.After clarification of the patterns in the process of production of prototype patterns placed in a rectangular frame (rectangular coordinate system) and are calculated the empirical formula to determine the position of individual points and contour lines details of the cut.

The analysis of calculation formulas used in the systems of cutting, made by G. L. Truhan, showed that all the formulas can be divided into 3 types.

1. The size of the part is determined using corresponding measurements (measurements) of the form: P = M + P, where P is the size of the part; M - measurement figures; P - stock.

In these formulas takes into account the difference between the measurements of the shape and dimensions of the part by means of allowances (the free fit, the silhouette, the thickness of the materials, seams, etc.).

The accuracy of determining the sizes of clothing items with the use of these formulas depends on the ability of the designer to correctly determine the amount of allowances for free customized fit and silhouette in different parts of the product.

2. The size of the part is determined by measurement (measurements) figures not directly characterize the size of the part, P = m'+ bП + C, where M' is the merc figures are not directly characterize the size of the part; P - stock; a, B, C are the coefficients of the assumed relationship between the required size of the part and size of the figure.

The accuracy of determining the sizes of clothing items using the formulae 2-th species depends on how well established practice, the dependence of riservatezza and shapes. This dependence is non-permanent and is valid only for shapes of a particular physique and specific models. When using these formulas for drawing details of clothing on the figures of other types of body weights or for other models must change, and the coefficients a, B, C included in the formula.

3. Dimensions of parts are determined by other dimensions, previously found on the drawing: R = ar' + S, where R' is previously found size details; a and B are the coefficients of the assumed relationship between the required and previously found the size of the part.

The accuracy of the formulas of the 3rd kind even less than the formulas of the 1st and 2nd types. It depends, on the one hand, the correctness of the established dependence of the magnitude of the desired size of the part already found, and on the other hand, the accuracy of the determination of the previously found size.

The use of these formulas leads to satisfactory results in the design of the clothes a certain fashion, and models for specific body shapes, for which these formulas were derived. Changes in the cut - there is essentially a new system of cutting, a new way of drawing parts of new clothes.

The creative process of creating a model almost always ends the manufacturer of the sample, as many sizes of future parts (variables included in the calculation formula) are determined only in the process of the work of fashion artist and designer on the model.

Thus, the cutting system allow to construct only approximate (initial) drawings of clothing items. Obligatory condition of use of the system of cutting for creating the new fashion is to validate the design by making one, and sometimes several re-samples of models, called primary samples.

In the industry repeatedly made attempts to improve the methods of designing clothes. In 1956 TSNIISHP as a result of generalization of experience of a number of Houses models of the Soviet Union created a standard method of constructing men's suits. This methodology was first developed standard design of the male suit in relation to the then existing cover. Later created a similar method of construction of mens coats. On techniques all clothing sizes were divided into three groups.For each group of dimensions was established your body type, which was characterized by a certain ratio of chest circumference of waist and buttocks and their values of standards that determine the posture of the figure of VP and the PC (table. III-2).

Shown in table the ratio of the dimensions of the figures established on the basis of practical experience, because of mass anthropometric measurements of the population was made later. The second and third types differ from the first extended zhirouloviteli in the abdomen and upper back, which leads to a disproportionate increase in girth of the waist and buttocks and changes in posture (VP and PC).

Any fundamental differences from the previously existing systems of cutting on the merits of the methods and techniques of drawing the most common technique has not. The source data for drawing are also measurements of the figure found by calculation, and allowances.

Further work on the improvement of methods of approximate construction of expansions of the clothing items was carried out based on the new typing of the body weights of the population of the Soviet Union, developed as a result of the mass anthropometric measurements 195б - 1958 among these works is proposed CNIISHP unified method of construction of men's, women's and children's clothing. A single method by its authors, was to give a "generalized universal way of drawing products regardless of changes in fashion and variations of the model".The drawing is performed on the basis of calculating and analytical method, whereby they are constructed as geometric and graphical sweep "smoothed" contours of a human figure with the corresponding model allowances (increments) on a loose fit. The dimensional characteristics of the "smoothed contour" figures given in tables of measurements obtained on the basis of anthropometric measurements with adjustment underwear and the difference in the method of removing some of the design dimensions (see Chapter 1).

This technique has the advantage over all the preceding that it is based on certain types of shapes taken in the design of clothes of mass production.

However, to improve the methods of construction of development of clothing items is not enough to base anthropometric measurements of typical figures no significant changes in the construction methods. None of the existing calculation methods design details of the garment does not provide calculations related to the change in the size and shape of parts when placing them in the finished product on the human figure. Studies have shown that changing the angle between the yarns of the fabric in the finished product leads to the difference in separate measurements of parts up to 2 cm or more.

It was also established that the calculation formula in the presence of certain body types can relatively accurately reflect the relationship between the dimensions of the figure, but not the size of the product. Relationships between dimensions of shapes and products are volatile and depend on the size of decorative and constructive allowances for the silhouette, which, as noted above, cannot be accurately determined prior to sample production.

In addition, the availability of allowances causes a change not only of the linear dimensions of the parts, from which emanate all the calculation methods of construction, but the changes in the curvature of the surface, and consequently the additional shape change of parts.

It follows that high precision scans of clothing items required by the conditions of mass production, to achieve any one current way of designing that are based on measurements of shapes and allowances, it is impossible.

The desire to provide exact structure of the scan inevitably leads to the need to arrange when building drawings are not yardsticks shapes and dimensions of the surface formed by the clothes. Methods of approximate construction of development of clothing items needed to build the primary patterns in the development of design primary samples of new models.

The process of design samples of new clothes for mass production is currently being implemented in 3 phases.

I stage. Creating a primary sample models for specific polnocno-age groups (standard form, mass produced products).

Stage II. Design patterns for mass production on a typical figure of the middle size and growth, adopted in polnocno-age groups. Manufacturer re-sample models (standards product design mass production).

Stage III. Making patterns on all sizes and growth, which recommended the model (breeding patterns), and development of technical documentation.

When performing the first and second phases of the patterns obtained with the application of existing methods of approximate construction of development details of clothing.

Construction drawings of the clothing items always start with the design of the main parts: the back and shelves (front).

Drawings of sleeve and collar later build, linking them to size and shape with the size of the relevant parts of the basic details.

Most of the methods of construction provides for the implementation of the drawings backrest and shelves (front) together, in one common horizontal line of the chest. Owing to the symmetry of clothing items on a drawing, always put a shelf or half of the front (left or right) and half of the back.