Collars, form very diverse. Structurally, the collar usually consists of two parts: the collar and the bottom collar. First, always build drawing the lower collar, and it determines the size and shape of the collar.

Most collars have departure and rack.

It is established that the height of the stand collar depends on the shape of the cut stands [23]. The straighter the line of the cut stands, the more the height of the stand, especially adjacent to the neck (standing) will be the collar. The coincidence of the shape of the cut stands with cut neck stand collar disappears and becomes flat (supine).

The most common form of collar when designing clothing top is a fold-over collar.

 

Turn-down collar business suit type

 

collar Be used in jacket, jacket, coat. The lower collar business suit type of building always on the neckline shelves* when the Board is already built, lapel caused the hinges and fold line of the lapel (Fig. 111-20).

Fold line the racks of the lower collar is a continuation of the fold line of the lapel and the width of the flight and the shape of the ends of the lower collar should be linked to the size and shape of the lapel.

The upper end of the fold line of the lapel is carried out through a point Z lying on the continuation of the shoulder cut shelves, on which lay a tall stand collar AZ. Rack height is not constant-dependent fashion, for a jacket equal to 2.0 to 3.0 cm Lower end of the fold line of the lapel is usually located at a distance of 0.5 - 3.0 cm from the top of the loop [2, 6, 7, 25].

The fold line of the lapel continue up and continue to lay the length of the cut sprout ZZ = lр + 0,5.

The construction of the middle slice, the slice stands, combine with the sprout of the back, and leaving the lower collar is produced in different ways using different graphic techniques. Consider one of them offered a single technique [7].

From the point of intersection of the neck with the fold line of the lapel (f) describe an arc of radius PS. Along the chord of this arc from point lay S cut SS equal to the height of the rack plus the seam allowance. The amount of the allowance varies depending on the height of the shoulders of VP and position of the PC case. For typical figures of men, used for design of mass production (VP = 6.0 cm, PC = 7.5 cm), the allowance is equal to 1.5 cm.

From the point S conduct is tangent to the slice of the neck; the touch point represent S. Point S and S restore the perpendiculars to the tangent, and on them lay the segments 3₂3₄ and SS equal to the height of the rack. Point S and S connect direct. Then the curve draw a smooth transition from the bend line the racks of the lower collar to the fold line of the lapel. On the continuation of 3₂3₄ and SS perpendiculars from the points S and Z lay wide departure 3₄3₆ and 3₅З₇ taken in the model. The width of the flight should be at least 0.5 cm greater than the height of the rack that was not visible seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar to the neckline.

The position of the front end of the lower collar, depending on the model: it can be placed in the line of prosanos to the left or to the right.

The width of the ledge lapel AS or equal to 0.5 cm more than the width of the front end of the lower collar: AL = AS + (0 - 0,5). The front end of the lower collar, as well as the ledge of the lapel** depends on the model. Between them can be direct, blunt or sharp corner.

Point Z connect with points 3₆ and S straight. In the middle of the straight 3₇3₈ make the deflection equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm

 

lower turn-down collar coat

 

Drawing fold-over collar bottom of coat is usually built separately from the neck (Fig. 111-20, b). According to some methods [7,8] building a fold-over collar to bottom of coat with zipper on style and to the top (combination clasp) is recommended on the neckline shelves.

The basic design value at the bottom of the collar has a cut of the rack. Its size should be closely linked to the size of the sprout of the backrest (lр) and neck shelves (lг). AA = lр + lг. The lifting rack collar in the middle of as = 1.0 to 2.0 cm, more Than the lifting rack, the flatter the collar and the less pulling on the rack.

Width of lower collar in the middle of SV = S + SV where S - rack height equal to 3.0 - 4.5 cm; SB - the width of the departure depends on the model and is equal to 5 - 8 cm

Width leaving the bottom of the collar must be greater than the stand height not less than 2 cm.

Slice the racks of the lower collar is usually drawn for concave-convex lines, making the bevel of the front end. The size of the bevel AA equal to 1 2 see Auxiliary point for

tracing of the cut stand is relative to the point A.

AO = (1/3 ... 1/6)AA where AA - length cut stand.

Point On connect the dot A a straight line.

The width of the front end of the lower collar AV equal to the width of the lower collar in the middle of several SV or less (0.5 -1 cm). Point To and V direct connect and its continuation lay the amount of protrusion of the front end of the lower collar, depending on the model.

The design of the slicer flight between points In and W produce a convex curve, in the middle of the straight line connecting these points, raise a perpendicular, and lay a value equal to 0.7 - 1.0 cm

fold Line stanchion (shown in Fig. 111-20, b dashed lines) is constructed in exact accordance with the position of the crease line of the lapel and the length of the neck rascepa shelves.

When building lines sections of the fly and the rack, and the fold line of the rack it is essential that they are perpendicular to the middle edge of the lower collar.

Lower collar for coat with front zip differs from the usual fold-over collar with fold stand, which is held from point to point S A (see Fig. 111-20 in).

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* Not designated neckline. On the construction side and lapel see in the following chapters.

** The line of the ledge is not necessarily a continuation of the slice of the neck.

 

2. Kobylanski, D. A. creating generic methods design of men's suits mass production. Research works TSNIISHP, No. 6, 1957.

6. Vinogradov S. K., Ribakov V. N., Lebedev, A. M. Designing men's clothes. Wasteheat, 1961.

7. A common method of designing clothes. Men's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.

8. A common method of designing clothes. Women's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.

23. Litvin, L. M. Leonidov, I. S., L. F. Turchanovsky Modeling and design artwork for women's and children's clothing. Publishing house "Light industry", 1964.

25. A collection of teaching materials for designing clothes. ODMO, 1965.