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Home » Articles » Design basics clothing

The primary methods of constructing drawings of pants

Pants are to the waist products. 
The most common is the design of pants, consists of four main parts: two front and two rear halves, connected by a lateral stepper and middle seams. 
Baseline data for the development of the design of the pants are the dimensions of the shape (measurements) and the allowances for free customized fit, and in some methods [6, 14] and a seam.
All the methods [6, 7, 14] when making drawings of the parts of the pants using the basic measurements the figures that define the width of the pants at the top (St and SB) and their length (or DRC, DSP, EP.with or DSH). In the method [7] also use measurements OK, and Osh on the basis of which calculate the width of the trousers through the knee and hem.
Allowances for free customized fit give to poluobhvat the hips and waist. Allowance to the poluobhvat waist (to 2.5 - 3.0 cm) is used to control the width of the pants at the waist dimensions. In addition, when calculating the width of the front and rear halves of the pants at the waist give allowances: the front crease 3 cm, a tuck in the front half of 2 cm and a back tuck 2 - 3 cm 
Width of trousers at the hips is determined on the basis of measurements of SB and allowance for the free fit, which ranges on average from 2 to 6 see the Magnitude of this allowance depends on the tissue thickness and the total width of the trousers and is equal to:
a) trousers are narrow throughout the length - 2,0 - 2,5 cm; 
b) for trousers, normal width (normal) - 4,0 - 4,5 cm 
) Trouser wide throughout the length and 5.5 - 6.5 cm 
Width of the pants at the bottom depends mainly on the style, and the size and growth of the person. It is usually determined for the average size and growth model. In the method [7] is recommended to calculate the width of the pants at the bottom by the formula SN = (EWCs + 0,1 DSP)/2 - 5,2 where A is the circumference of the ankles; Ku - coefficient of expansion of the trousers relative to the circumference of the ankle is from 1.75 to 3.0 cm depending on the total width of the pants; DSP - measurement of the length of the pants front.
To achieve full compliance in form and dimensions of the parts of the pants front and back halves, their construction produce in a single drawing (Fig. 111-21). Building a drawing starting from the vertical IN passing through soutwick bend the front half [3, 7], or from the vertical passing through the projecting point of the lateral anterior cut halves. On this initial vertical calculations determine the position of the main horizontal lines: the depth of the bow, thigh, knee and bottom, through which is carried out horizontally.The starting point for the construction of the pants is usually the point of intersection of the horizontal, held at waist level with an initial vertical.
Initially decided to build a scan of the front half. Scan the back halves of the building in the drawing the front half, delaying its dimensions from the vertical TN or slices the front half. 
For construction of development details of the pants use different empirical formula. The number of calculations can be considered sufficiently substantiated, for example, determining the length of the pants, the width along the lines of waist and hips. These calculations in the various methods perform on the basis of the same standards and the same allowances. 
Construction drawing of the main parts of the trousers are produced from the starting point T.
The following are the most reasonable calculations of the basic parts of details of the pants, used different methods of construction. 
 Pants length: 
according to method [6]* TN = DRC + 1 - M;
by the method of [7]** CN = EAF - M or TN = Di, 
where DRC, DSP - measurements of the length of the side and front; Di is the length of the product on a scale of size and height, M is 3 - 6 cm, distance from floor to bottom of pants is made according to fashion.
 The position of the line depth of the bow is determined from the points N or C on various dependencies 
for method [6] TA = SB/4 + R/12 - 0,2; 
by the method of [7] TE = 2/3(DSP - VPS) + SB 0,3 - 8,7;
according to the method [22] NA = DS + 1; 
can also be determined by the formula: TA = DRC - DSH, 
where DSH and DSB - measurements length feet on side and stepping the sides; 1 cm seam allowance on protecive belt if the drawing is built with seam. 
From the above calculations the simplest and most acceptable should be considered calculations based on the measurements of DSB and DSH 
[22]. 
 The position of the hip line is determined from the depth of the bow (T. I) or from the waist (t T): 
according to method [7] YAB = TA/3; 
by the method of [22] TB = 19 + and 1.0. 
Value TB varies depending on growth. 
 The position of the knee 
according to the method of [7] TC = CPD/2 + 6,3; 
Most just to determine the position of the line according to the formula: TK = Dt.to where Dt.to - measure length from waist to knee. 
Through T, B, I, K and N carried out horizontally. 
 Width of the front halves of trousers at the depth of the bow: 
by the method of [7] AA = 0,4(SB + IB) + 0.1 St; AE = 0,1(SB + IB), received wide distribute about the fold lines in the following ratio AA = 0,6Я₁Я₂; AA = 0,4Я₁Я₂; 
by the method of [6] YA = (SB + Pb - 4)/2; AA = 0,1 SB,
where SB is the measure of poluobhvat hips; Pb - allowance to the poluobhvat hips.
Point A and A spend up vertical. 
 Width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line is equal to: 
according to the method [6] TT = St/2 + PS + PV; 
by the method of [7] (without seam) TT = St/2 - 2 + P + P, 
where P - allowance for fold = 3 cm; B - stock on the tuck = 2 cm 
 Width of the front halves of the trousers-leg is determined: 
by the method of [6] NN = SN, 
by the method of [7] (without seam) NN = SN - 2; NN = NN. 
 The width of the front halves of trousers at the knee define at connection points A with N and A N with straight lines. 
 The tip of the bow the front halves of trousers (point C) is for a typical figure of 0.5 - 1.0 cm below the horizontal line passing through the point T. 
For shapes of large and very large fullness with a protruding belly T point is above the horizontal line of 1.0 - 1.5 cm and moves to the right by the same amount. 
 The projection stepper cut back half on the line depth of a bow is determined: 
by the method of [7] AE = 0,25(SB + IB), 
according to the method [22] EA = 0,25 SB + 1,5. 
 The side cut back half on the line of the hips is determined: 
by the method of [7] BB = 0,1(SB + SP) + 0,5***,
according to the method [6] BB = (SB + SP) - BB, 
where BB - width Pereda halves of the pants. 
B point lies on the straight line TA. TT = SB/2 to 2.8 [6]. 
Cut the top of the rear halves of the pants (trousers balance) determined by the method [6] TT = 0.1 VV + 0,2. 
Cut BT TB equal interval [6]. 
 The width of the rear half at the hip line is determined [6, 7, 14]. BB = (SB + SP) - BB, 
in this case by the method [7] BB = 0,05(Sat + Sun) + 0,5, 
cut BB lay on the arc, drawn with a radius of BB. Cut BB determines the balance of the pants. 
 The width of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined:
according to the method of [7] NN = SHN + 2, NN = NN where a 2 cm extension of the back halves due to the narrowing of the front 
according to the method [6] NN = NN = (SN + 4)/2, where 4 cm - extension of the back halves due to the seam. 
 The width of the rear halves of the pants at the knee is determined: 
by the method of [7, 26] KC = KC = NN + (0,5 - 1,5). 
Point C connect the straight lines with dots B and N. 
Point C connect the straight lines with dots A and N. 
Stepper cut back half on the site CA make a smooth concave line with a deflection in the middle of 0.7 - 1.0 cm. 
 the width of the rear halves of the pants on the waist line is determined: 
by the method of [7] CT = St/2 + 2 + solution back tuck, 
where a 2 cm extension of the back halves due to the narrowing of the front according to the method [6] TT = St/2 + 4 + 3, 
where 3 cm - solution back tuck; 4 cm seam. 
The side cut of the rear halves of equal length with side cut front half. To do this, from the point C radius CT conduct the arc, and from point C radius TT on the arc notch and make the resulting point T connect with a smooth curve from B and a straight line with a point T.
Step cut the rear halves of the pants equalize the length of the step cut the front halves of trousers. 
Length of cut NCE equal to the length of the cut NCA minus 0.5 - 1.0 cm. 
the Back pocket have from the top cut at 8 cm from the side and slice into 4 - 5 cm Length of the cut of the pocket 48 and 50 sizes of 14.0 cm 
Tuck at the back half features: one from the middle of the cut rear pocket or two - at a distance of 2.5 - 3.0 cm from the ends of the pocket. Solution one tuck 2 - 3cm, solution of the two recesses not less than 1.5 cm each.
Tuck in the front half of the trousers are usually cut in the middle TT. 
She comes to the hip line on the 1 - 2 cm; solution Darts at the top is equal to 1.5 - 2 cm 
Side pockets feature at the side seams on the front half, or cutting a barrel in the front half. 
The upper end of the pocket in the side seam by 4 cm below the weld zone. 
The length of the entrance to the pocket 48 and 50 dimensions 17,0 cm 
slant pockets on the front half of a model, and the length of their to reduce 48 and 50 sizes up to 16.5 - 6 see 
----------------------
* including allowances.
** excluding the seam.
*** Trousers made from linen, cotton fabrics and fabrics with the polyester scrap BB determined by the calculation: PB = 0,15(SB + SP) - 1,8 + 1/3 solution back tuck.

3. Bychkov V. K. Czechoslovak system cut. Gostorgizdat, 1961.
6. Vinogradov S. K., Ribakov V. N., Lebedev, A. M. Designing men's clothes. Wasteheat, 1961.
7. A common method of designing clothes. Men's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.
14. Garment industry. Experience of designing men's clothing. Information 4 (6), Cintalapa, 1963.
22. Skowronski A. J. Designing men's clothes. Publishing house "Light industry", 1964.
26. The design of the products (women's outerwear). Publishing house "Light industry", 1965.



Category: Design basics clothing | Added by: 27.10.2017
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