Sleeves varied in shape and number of parts.

The same shape of the sleeves in finished form can be obtained with various number of parts: one, two and three stitches. Sleeve consisting of one piece (one-piece) design one of the joints: the elbow or lower. In a double seam - elbow and front or top and bottom seams. Into sleeve - a top, bottom and elbow joints.

Practice set certain rules in the arrangement of the seams of the sleeves depending on their purpose and type of clothing. Bottom, elbow and front seams are purely constructive and therefore are always positioned with the bottom (inner) side of the sleeve. Top seam is visible on the outside of the sleeve and is not only constructive, but also decorative value.

The most common in the top men's, women's and children's clothes are the usual double seam set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams.

Consider as a typical example construction drawing set-in sleeves, double seam outerwear.

 

The construction of a double seam set-in sleeves

 

, the Most important is the correct construction of the upper part of the sleeve - the top part. The top part of the sleeve should match the size and shape of the openings. Therefore, separate methods of construction [1] construction drawing sleeve is performed directly on the drawing basics backrest and shelves (Fig. 111-16).

While the main point and the line sleeves, shelves and back must be aligned. Line depth the crown of the sleeve combine with the horizontal depth of the armhole (the bust line) 2 - 2, and a line connecting the ends of the front bend (roll) sleeve - vertical III - III, this must match the front notch of sleeve and armhole and direction of the equity filaments shelves and sleeve*.

In most methods of construction proposed construction separate drawing of the parts of the sleeve.

In order to achieve full compliance with forms and sizes the lower and upper halves of the sleeves, and their construction produced on a single drawing.

Construction drawing of the sleeve can be considered consisting of two stages: drawing vertical and horizontal lines (grid) defining the main dimensions of the sleeve, and constructing contour lines of the top part and bottom, front and elbow sections.

* In accordance with THAT common thread when cutting parts of the sleeve parallel to a straight line connecting the ends of the front roll.

 

Grid drawing

 

a Vertical line I - I passes through the highest point of the crown of the sleeve (Fig. 111-16, b, d) or through the ends of the line of front roll (Fig. 111-16, C, d). On it lay the segments, determining the position of the main horizontal lines: 1 - 1 - height of lifts the shoulders, and 2 - 2 - depth of crown of the sleeve (armhole depth), 3 - 3 - elbow; 4 - 4 - hem sleeves.

The distance between the vertical lines I - I and II - II is determined by the width of the sleeve at the top (Fig. 111-16, C, d) or the half width of the sleeves (Fig. 111-16, b, d).

The principal dimensions of the upper part of the sleeves in the height of crown and width always linked with the size of the openings.

Outerwear is usually taken with the allowances for freedom (deepening) of the openings, the height of the top part of the sleeve (Fig. 111-17, a) must be equal to the vertical diameter of the armhole of the product in finished form (Fig. 111-17, b) [18].

Sleeve width (Fig. 111-17,) is always slightly greater than the width (horizontal diameter) of the openings (Fig. 111-17, g).

When designing the height of the crown determine by direct measurement on the drawing basics backrest and shelves cut OO (Fig. 111-17, d) [2, 6, 14, 25] or by calculation [7, 8]: Vok = PH of 0.4 PDS + (1,5 - 1,8).

In the first case (see Fig. 111-17, d) the height of the crown linked only with the depth of the armhole backrest and shelves. To do this, connect the outer ends of the shoulder sections S and S a straight line and from its middle (point O) hold down vertical to the intersection with the line of armhole depth. The height of the crown AO is taken equal to the vertical diameter of the armhole in finished form. The amount of displacement of the top of the armhole OO determined by empirical formulas by the method of [2, 6] OU = SG/20 + 0,5, according to the method [14] OO = SG/16 + 0.5 or take depending on the type of clothing equal to 2.5 - 3.5 cm [25].

In the second case, the height of the crown is determined depending on the depth of the armhole of the backrest PG* and width of the openings PDS.

All these calculations are approximate and are specified in the manufacture of the primary sample.

The height of the top part of the sleeve in mens outerwear depending on the source of the data varies from 17 to 20 cm, in women's clothing from 16 to 19 cm

* PG is taken from a drawing basics, net of allowance for boarding (stivania) armhole of the back.

The width of the sleeve at the top (at the level of the depth of the crown) is usually determined depending on the perimeter of the openings of the DWP* and found the height of the top part of the sleeves of the SAI. According to the methods [7, 8, 10], Srwk = 1,25(DPR + PPOs) - 1,6 Wok (1.8 and 1.9).

In 1965, Additions to the standardized method, the formula was changed, Sruc = 1,15(DPR + PPOs) - 1,35 (FOC + PV.OK) - (2,0 - 2,6), where 2.0 cm offered to take men's clothing and 2.6 cm for female.

PV.OK - re-introduced the allowance to the height of the top part of the sleeve on the bulge of the deltoid muscle and on the diffraction of seam vrachevanie sleeves fabric when suotuisan it to the side of openings (POS.OK varies depending on seam construction and fabric thickness from 0.5 to 1.7 cm).

According to the method of [2] the width of the sleeve determined by the formula, Sruc = 2/3(DPR + PPOs) - Vok, where PPOs is the allowance for the crown sleeves fit fabric, which provides to make the sleeve large. The size of the landing depends on the shape of the top part of the sleeve on the model, but mainly from the properties of the tissues. TSNIISHP [7, 8] recommended the following sizes (normal) landing in cm per 1 cm length of the armhole depending on the type of tissue (table. 111-4).

The table shows that the greatest fit can be designed for production of fine pure wool nails, the smallest - for delicate fabrics made of natural silk and wool blend fabrics with a high content of synthetic fibers. The allowance for planting on crown PPOs equal to the product of the norms of landing NPOs on the perimeter of the openings of the DPR, PPOs = Postpr.

If to take approximately the perimeter of the openings is equal to the poluobhvat chest, the jacket 50, the amount of the allowance for landing on top part of sleeve is calculated according to the table. 111-3 may vary from 1.0 to 4.0 cm, and a coat - from 4.0 to 6.25 cm, However from experience we know that even for a suiting wool blend fabrics with polyester content more than 50%, the allowance for a landing lifts the shoulders take not less than 2.5 - 3.0 cm [20], or do not provide the necessary freedom of movements and the corresponding appearance of the product.

* The perimeter of the openings can be measured directly from the drawing of the back and shelves along the contour of the openings, net of allowance for sutivana armhole backless. If a drawing constructed with the seam, the measurement produce at a distance of 1 cm from the contour of the openings and subtract allowances seams.

A unified method [7 - 10] are also given formulas, which in if necessary, you can find the perimeter of the openings by calculation.

The position of the horizontal line of the bottom of the sleeves is determined based on the measurement of its length on a scale or model approved by the art Council. The sleeve length can be found and estimated by [7, 8, 9, 10] based on the measurement of the length of the arm to the 1st big toe joint DRS and installed according to the model of the distance from the bottom sleeve to the 1st joint of the thumb of the PoA.RS, Druk = DRS - PD.RS

the Level horizontal line of the elbow usually defined relative to the point of the anterior notch D lying on a vertical I - I (see Fig. 111-16, C, d) above the depth of the crown at 4 to 5 cm as half the distance from the front notch to the bottom line [14, 20] DL = DN/2.

The position of this line relative to the highest point of the crown sleeve can be found to measure hand length GRS [7, 10] OL = TS/2 + 3.

 

Line of rolls, front and elbow sections

 

but the vertical and horizontal lines in the drawing, sleeve outerwear, it is customary to apply a line of front and elbow (rapids) in accordance with their position in the finished sleeve.

Line front fold of the sleeve can have a random shape and should be determined by the shape of the hand.

Shoulder and forearm arms form an obtuse angle, the value of which can be measured with a goniometer or simple tools - protractor (Fig. 111-18). The goniometer consists of two hinged metal bonded lines (1). To the ruler attached to the protractor (2), split into two parts, 90 minutes each. When measuring these parts of the protractor are moved relative to each other and record the angle. For convenience of measurements, the inclinometer is fixed to the hand through the cuff (3) and bracket (4).Conducted [21] measurements showed that the angle between arm and forearm hand, equal to an average of 168' which is the deflection of the front fold of the sleeve, is equal to 1.6 cm

Line front roll in the drawing, the sleeve starts from the front and the notch is constructed in the form of a slightly concave curve, the deflection of which is at the level of the elbow should be taken equal to 1.5 - 1.6 cm

Line of the elbow roll to the elbow coincides with a vertical line II - II, and then deviates from it toward the front of the roll is greater than the lower sleeve width at the bottom.

In accordance with the position of the seams in the finished sleeve front sections the upper and lower halves being built parallel to the line of front roll. The amount of expansion of the upper half (the width of the roll) depends on the type of clothing: coat and jacket, it is taken equal to 2.5 - 3.0 cm, coat of 3.0 - 4.0 see

the Tops of the front sections of the upper and lower halves of the sleeves are in a line the depth of the armhole.

The position of the apex of the elbow seam height depends on the model and type of clothing (male, female).

In the men's outerwear the top of the elbow seam features approximately 1/3Вок from the line height of the crown

(see Fig. 111-16,) [2, 6, 14]. AS = 1/3Вок + (1 - 2) or slightly below (see Fig. 111-1B, b) [7] AR = 0,55О₁О₂.

The elbow sections of the upper and lower halves of sleeves clothing come close to the line of the elbow roll (width of elbow roll at the top of the seam is 1.5 - 2.5 cm and disappearing to the elbow or bottom) or send along an elbow rolling along the entire length of the seam.

The bottom of the elbow sections is usually given allowance for the slot, equal to 1.5 - 2.0 cm, the length of the slots is equal 8,0 - 9,0 cm

Women's clothes in order to make the elbow invisible seam, the upper half of the sleeve expand. To do this, the top elbow of the cutoff a is much closer to the line of depth of the openings at a distance approximately equal to (1/5 - 1/4)of the SAI (see Fig. 111-16, d). In a single technique [8] is recommended to determine the vertex position of the elbow seam of the jacket and women's coat, depending on the allowance of freedom (deepening) of the openings of the SS.PR: RR = PS.PR and + 2.0.

The width of the elbow roll in women's clothing: tops seam RR = RR = 3.5 - 4.0 cm, elbow LL = LL = 2,5 - 3,0 cm, bottom - 1.0 to 1.5 see If there is a slot, the elbow sections of the two halves of the bottom guide line of the elbow roll (in Fig. 111-16, d shown by dashed lines).

 

Okata line and bottom

 

Line of the top part of the upper half of the sleeves is carried out a smooth convex curve through the points of the vertices of the crown*, elbow and front sections and front nadechka.

The line of the crown (the upper section) of the lower half cause a concave line across the tops of the front and elbow sections, touching or 0.5 - 1.0 cm below the depth of the armhole.

To facilitate the construction of the main structural points, find the number of auxiliary points and lines (see Fig. 111-1B).

Line the bottom of the sleeves is determined on the basis of the width of the sleeve at the bottom and the bevel bottom line on the elongation of the ulnar cut.

The width of the upper half of the sleeve at the bottom M = FR.VN/2 + SHP.p + SHL.p, where FR.VN - sleeve width at the bottom; is given in expanded form; SHP.p - width of front roll; Gone.p - the width of the elbow roll.

In men's wear elbow roll width at the bottom equal to 0.

Cut M lay on the lower horizontal 4 - 4 and put a point M (see Fig. 111-1B, b, d). Through the point M hold down the vertical and on it lay the bevel of the bottom MM, the value of which accept on the basis of practice, equal to 2.5 - 3.5 cm the Lower end of the line of front roll point M connect with point M a sloping line (bottom line of upper and lower halves of the sleeves).

The shape of the sleeves, the shape of the concave lines and convex front line of the elbow shoals.

To obtain the required shape of the lines of reefs, produces pulling the front of the cut and the fit of the elbow section of the upper halves of the sleeve in the areas adjacent to the elbow that is provided with the corresponding allowances inherent in the design of the sleeve. To do this, drop the top of the elbow and raise the top front sections of the lower halves on the amount of the allowance (0.5 - 1.0 cm).

When designing men's suits of wool blend fabrics with polyester content more than 50% of maximum ulnar cut closer to the line of the elbow roll and the deflection of the front roll is set equal to 0.5 - 1.0 cm instead of 1.5 - 1,b, see [21], this, of course, the shape of the sleeves in finished form, he becomes more direct**.

* The tip of the crown O lies in the middle of the cut that determines the width of the sleeve at the top.

** Design expansions of parts of the sleeves of the tissues with the Dacron as double seam and one-piece without changing the shape of the sleeves in finished form possible using the methods described in the following chapters.

 

Features of construction of the flow sleeve

 

, the flow sleeve Design can be developed on the basis of the double seam with the following additions.

To construct an upper (outer) slices of the highest point of the crown is carried out vertical to the line of the elbow (Fig. 111-19). The resulting point connect straight to the point, the middle of the bottom line (or deviation forward by 1 cm). To make the sleeve large top sections draw not straight and convex curved lines. To build them on the line the depth of the crown lay auxiliary vertical 0.8 cm, and the elbow - 0.6 cm

For reduction of landing on top part of sleeve to top of upper seam is tuck a solution of 2 - 2,5 cm

 

Construction features Raglan sleeve

 

Design Raglan sleeves (Fig. 111-19, b, C) develop based on the design of casting double seam (top and bottom seam) or three-seam sleeves [22]. Additionally, complete the top part (head) Raglan sleeves (Fig. 111-19, b, shaded), which replaces the truncated part of the backrest and shelves located from the slices armholes and shoulder sections to the line of Rostock and the neck (Fig. 111-15 too shaded).

For the construction of the head sleeve front halves continue up the vertical GA.

On continuation of the vertical from the point G (front notch) lay cut GC equal to the distance from the point to the point P ₄ A in the drawing, shelves (see Fig. 111-15). From point To hold the horizontal and on it lay cut CC equal to the length of cut of the neckline shelves, i.e. 1.5 - 2.5 cm K Point corresponds to the position of the point A in the drawing ₄ shelves (see Fig. 111-15). Point C connect with point G straight and then concave with camber in the middle, equal to the amount of convexity of the line of the armhole shelves.

Next, define the center of the solution of the upper sections of the sleeve. It is the point O the top of the crown set-in sleeves. If a Raglan sleeve is constructed without shoulder pads, and the height of the crown set-in sleeves is determined taking the thickness of the shoulder pads, the center of the solution moves down a distance OA equal to the thickness of the shoulder pads (0.5 - 1.0 cm). Through the point C spend an arc with center at point O to the intersection with the continuation of the vertical of point A that defines the width of the sleeve. The point of intersection represent S. On the same arc from point lay C cut CC = CC.

S point corresponds to the point A sprout in the drawing of the backrest (see Fig. 111-15).

From the point S in an arc to the right lay the cut S equal to the length of the sheared piece of the sprout AA' in the drawing of the back. From a point With a radius SS hold up the arc, putting her cut SS = 2 see

the resulting point S connect straight to the point S corresponding to the position of the apex of the elbow of the cut, and then conduct a smooth concave line with a camber equal to the amount of convexity of the armhole of the back.

The upper sections of the upper (outer) sections of the sleeves is carried out by smooth convex curves from point to O points and C.

To better match the size and shape of the Raglan sleeves to the armhole of the product and the supporting surface of the pieces of his design in a single drawing with back and shelf.

Based methods of construction Raglan sleeves have not been developed.

In Fig. 111-19, shown back with a second half double seam Raglan sleeves. To build use various graphical techniques, for example, in the method [22] to initially determine the position of the middle line passing through the points G and E.

G point lies on the perpendicular to the vertical, defining the width of the back GG equal to 3.0 cm To find the point of E on the same vertical line down from the depths of the openings lay cut GE equal to 20 cm and from point E to the right by the perpendicular to the line HE lay cut EE equal to 25, see

Further point G pursuing a line perpendicular to the median line GE; the point of intersection represent from O From point lay About the width of the sleeve OO model.

Through the point O pursuing a line parallel to the median line, and the point of its intersection with the continuation of the shoulder cut of the back indicate W. From the point U lay the sleeve length to the hem to the elbow, and through the resulting points P and L was carried out hem and elbow perpendicular to the straight VR. The width of the ulnar halves of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to RR = RR = Sruc.VN/2.

Then build cut armholes sleeves APO corresponding to the armhole of the backrest APG, To do this, lay cut OO = GG + 5.

Point A connect with point R the bottom of the sleeve is straight, and on it lay cut OO = GG is 1.5. Point A connect with point B smooth concave curve.

Then spend the top (outer) cut VER and lower (inner) slice OLR (see Fig. 11-19, in). To give the sleeve a convex shape when holding the lower cut on the elbow lay cut LL = 1 cm and build a tuck or project wet-heat treatment.

 

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