ALLOWANCE FOR the thickness of the MATERIAL

 

IN a single layer of clothing (underwear, light dress, industrial clothing of some types), made from thin materials, external and internal dimensions of the apparel is almost the same.

 

Layered outerwear between the inner and outer surfaces of it are several layers of materials: lining, lining, outer fabric and winter clothes an additional insulation strip. Naturally in this case that the external dimensions of the clothes should be more internal.

 

The difference between the outer and inner clothing sizes is determined by the amount of the allowance for the thickness of the material.

 

In winter clothing allowance for the thickness of the material considered consists of two parts: the thickness of the tissue and warming pads.

 

In the practice of designing clothing allowance for the thickness of the materials set at the rate of 0.5 cm allowance on each mm of thickness of the fabrics at the top. Assuming that the average thickness of suit fabrics are 1 - 2 mm thick 3 to 4 mm allowance for the thickness of tissues to one-half the width of the product when designing suiting products (coat, jacket) and the summer coat is approximately taken as equal to 0.5 - 1.0 cm coat demi - 1.5 - 2.0 cm

 

by Adopting the horizontal section torso for the round and considering the clothes as a circular ring around the body (Fig. 11-5, a), allowance for the thickness of the material can be calculated approximately by the formula: PT.m = αRн - αRв = α(RL - Rв) = α(Rв + δ - Rв) = αδ, (1) or Fri.m = αR0 - αRв = α(R0 - Rв) = α(R0 - R0 δ/2) = αδ/2, (2) where α is the Central angle subtending the arc of a circle, covered with clothes, in radians; δ - the total thickness of the clothing materials, given the varying number of layers of tissue at different sites (the presence of on-Board pads located only on the width of the chest, and different thickness side of strip), cm, RL - is the radius of the arc of the outer layer material; Rв - the radius of the arc of the inner layer material; R0 is the radius of the arc of the neutral surface of the material.

 

In the formula (1) allowance for the thickness of the materials obtained as the difference in the perimeters of the outer and inner arcs, in the formula (2) as the difference in the perimeters of arcs of the neutral surface and internal.

 

It is easy to notice that formula (2) is applicable in the calculation of the allowance for the thickness of the material of a single layer of clothing, and the formula (1) to account for the thickness of only the inner layers of the clothing (lining, gaskets, insulation gasket).

 

Given the layering in clothing (Fig. 11-5, b) the formula for calculation of the allowance to the outer dimensions of the clothes on the thickness of the material of the inner layers and tissues of the upper (outer layer) can be written in General form as: PT.m = α(δп + δпр + δу.PR) + α ∙ δ/2 = α(δп + δпр + δ/2) + αδу.PR, (3) where PT.m - the seam allowance to the outer dimensions of the clothes on the materials thickness, cm; δп - the thickness of the lining, cm; δпр - width of strips, cm; δу.PR - the thickness of an insulation strip, cm; δ - thickness fabric top, see

 

When calculating the allowance for the thickness of the material for half the width of the garment when making drawings, the angle α = π, then PT.m = π(δп + δпр + δ/2) + πδу.PR. (4)

 

In table. 11-7 is given calculated by the formula (4) allowances for the thickness of the tissue and warming pads.

 

 

 

The allocation of the allowance for the materials thickness (excluding the thickness of the insulating gasket) between the main portions of the garment (back and arm shelf) is usually carried out uniformly or in the same percentage, how to allocate the allowance for loose fit. Sometimes allowance for the thickness of the material isolated and considered as part of the allowance for loose fit, for example, a unified method TSNIISHP.

 

Allowance for the thickness insulating spacers distributed between the main parts as follows. A large part of the extra thickness 2δ of the total amount of πδу.PR ≈ 3,2 δу.PR is given to the width of the armhole, since the product of the area of the openings adheres to the side surface shape having a greater curvature than the chest and back, and also due to the expansion of the sleeve (Fig. 11-6).

 

The EXTERNAL SHAPE AND DESIGN of CLOTHING

 

the External form is one of the main components of the composition of clothing.

 

The external form of the clothes is determined primarily by its internal shape, silhouette and constructive lines.

 

Silhouette a-line (shoulders, waist and bottom, as well as the lines defining the perception of the shape of the product to the face and profile) is characterized by the aspect ratio, three-dimensional shape of clothing and its external shape.

 

Constructive line - mainly seams, dividing the surface of the garment into separate parts (items) to create three-dimensional form of clothing, also characterize the appearance of the product.

 

Long practice developed the most successful division of the surface of the clothing to the details. Clothing of any type consists of several main parts: the back, shelves, sleeves, and collar.

 

The shape and dimensions of these components may be different depending on the number of reasons and first of all from fashion. Under the influence of fashion private details (collar, sleeves) can be removed from clothing or combined with other such as collar padbottom (in products with a shawl collar), sleeve with back and shelf (products with cap sleeves), the back shelf (in products without side seams), etc., Each item in turn, depending on the fashion can be divided into several parts (cutting side in the shelf, yoke, etc.).

 

The external form of the clothes, even with the same internal form, can be very diverse and is undergoing constant change with the development of clothing. Noted, however, that the position of the major seams (lines dividing the garment into its component parts) remains more or less constant, largely due to the structure of the human body and changing its size and shape during movement. It also depends on the properties of materials, manufacturing technology, usage, clothing, etc.Due to the symmetry of the figure, the clothes usually consists of two symmetrical halves, often have a middle seam on the back and front division of the middle line into two parts (shelves). One of the main reasons for the division of clothes on the part lines of the shoulder seams is the need to obtain the same longitudinal direction of the warp and weft on the front and rear parts of the garment corresponding to the direction of the main tensile forces that occur when you wear clothing.In isotropic materials there is no such necessity, if it is not dictated by other considerations, for example, smart materials, etc.

 

In addition to the seams to create a three-dimensional shape of clothing and its parts using Darts, wet-heat treatment (stivania, pulling), as well as a property of the tissue to change the angle between the warp and weft. Three-dimensional shape of products from new materials: wool blend fabrics that contain 30 - 55% polyester fiber, synthetic fabrics, doubled with foam rubber, etc., is not amenable to stygiana and pulling, it is recommended to obtain a constructive manner without application of forced moist-heat treatment.So, in the design of the shelves of the jacket from the tissues with the Dacron instead of sutivana on the side doing a tuck from the neck or carry it in the front tuck; landing at the shoulder seam of the back and replace the tuck, etc. the three-dimensional shape in top coats and overcoats from materials, lined with foam, it is also recommended to through Darts. Due to the high hardness of these materials is products is recommended to produce straight line, without folds (if necessary, replace the folds of the slits).The structure of the back and shelves of materials, backed with foam and tissues with the Dacron, you can develop without side seams and middle seam of the back. It is advisable to use one-piece sleeves, sides neotrazim podborom, etc. In products from the tissues with the Dacron in the development of external shapes and designs generally aim to reduce the number of seams, running strictly in the direction of the warp threads.