Line polutanata shelves

 

Line prosanos is a projection on a vertical plane at a line coinciding in the finished product with the axis of symmetry of the torso front.

Line polutanata the shelves of women's clothing, as well as the middle line in clothing with a whole front on the drawing always matches the original vertical line IV - IV.

The line shape of polosamota in the shelves of men's outerwear may be different (Fig. III-10). It depends on the initial conditions for the deployment of the designed wet-heat processing of the shelves on the side ("corner of stivania"), size and fullness of the figure.

At the top, above the depth of the armholes line polutanata to a greater or lesser degree deviates from the vertical line IV - IV is inclined in the direction of the openings, due to the curvature of the breast contour shapes and the presence or absence of "angle stivania". To construct a line of prosanos original build [2] the so-called "constant angle of bevel" PPU solution PP angle equal to 0.5 - 0.6 cm (Fig. 111-10).

Sometimes the slant of the line polutanata define a graphical way the result of finding the position of the top of the neck (point A), postponing from this point the width of the neck (AA), and the splicing point A point B [14] (Fig. 111-10, b).

In this case, if the Board projected an sutivana to give a convex shape of the shelf, first build the "angle stivania" UPU, and then top of the line of prosanos (Fig. 111-10).

Cut OU that defines the solution of the angle of stivania, approximately determined [2] by the formula UU = PP/20 and lay-up from the already found points W in an arc or in a vertical line IV - IV Through the points U and P conduct upper side "of the angle stivania" and perpendicular to her line of prosanos.

In other cases, for example, a unified method of constructing TSNIISHP, to construct a line of prosanos using more sophisticated graphical techniques (Fig. 111-10, in).

Center angle stivania feature in the middle of the width of the shelves or a few shifts it to the armhole: GG = GG/2 + 1.0 where GH - width shelves.

Through the point G carried out perpendicular to the horizontal line. Then from the top of the neck A radius equal to the distance from the top of the neck to the highest point of the chest, hold the arc to the intersection with the perpendicular: AG = VG - Nl/3, where VG is the measure of the height of the breast; secondary School/3 to the width of the blade.

In winter products AG increase by the same amount, which increased the balance.

Through the center of the angle of stivania G hold the horizontal in the direction of line of prosanos and on it lay cut, equal GG = CC 0,9 + 0,1 SG/4, where SHG - measurement of the width of the chest; SG - measurement of poluobhvat chest.

The intersection of this horizontal line with the middle of the front indicate G. Then from point G of center between the two arc radii GG and GG. On the chord of the arc passing through the point G, lay the cut is equal to the solution of the angle of stivania, GG = 0,1 SG - 2,75.

Point H connect with point G straight; the point of its intersection with the arc passing through the point G indicate G. From the point G perpendicular to the upper side of the angle stivania spend a straight line of prosanos and on it lay cut GA equal GA.

Point A - the new position of the center of the neck. From this point, run a new the line of cut of the neck in the manner described above.

In Additions to unified methodology of building a top of the line polutanata changed and is much simpler (Fig. 111-10, W).

These changes are as follows. Up from point lay G cut GHG equal to 13 see point G hold the horizontal in the direction of the openings, and on it lay two segments: GG = 0,7 - 1,0 cm and GG = 1,0 - 2,0 cm, the first digit in these formulas, take a coat, the second coat.

Point G and H connect direct point G. Direct GG called "the first diverting line polustanok" and GG is the "second abstraction", the relevant "corner of stivania". Accordingly, the angles between the perpendiculars to these straight called "the first abduction angle" (the angle GGG) and "stivania angle" (the angle GGG).

Below the line of the armhole depth line polutanata for men's products in the shape of a small and medium body is held vertically.

For figures large and extra large fittings with convex stomach and increased size of the waist, the line of prosanos shift to the right by the amount of the special allowance called "allowance for the protrusion of the belly". Allowance calculated in different ways. Sometimes it is determined depending on the ratio of poluobhvat waist and chest [2]. TT = (5 - (SG - St)) : 2, where SG and St - measurements of poluobhvat the bust and waist.

Free term in the numerator of this formula is chosen so that the figures for small and average completeness value of the stock was negative or equal to 0. The amount of the allowance TT lay vertical IV - IV in continuation of the waist line. Point T connect with a point From a smooth curve, and downward from the point T - line polutanata carried out vertically (Fig. 111-10, g).

Allowance for the protrusion of the abdomen is also determined depending on the size of poluobhvat waist St and recesses of the waist in the lumbar region W [14]. The expectation was that the width of the shelves on the level of the waist line TT for shapes with protruding stomach should be more than the level of the depth of the openings BB. TT = BB + W/2 where W is the measurement of the I-th recesses of the waist.

T point lies on the extension of the horizontal line determining the position of waist and cut TT - allowance for the protrusion of the abdomen (Fig. 111-10, d).

A unified method [7] proposed that the amount of protrusion of the abdomen Vzh determined by the formula Vzh = 30,5 - 1/3Сг - 1,5(SB - St), where SG is the measure of poluobhvat chest; St and SB - poluobhvat measurements of waist and hips.

Free member formulas, equal to 30.5 mm, and the coefficients 1/3 and 1.5 - specially selected magnitude, providing the necessary amount of protrusion of the abdomen.

For example, for size 48 the big completeness Vzh = 30,5 - 1/3 x 48 - 1,5(53,5 - 44,5) = 30,5 - 16,0 - 1,5 x 9.0 = 1.0 cm, and 60 size extra large completeness Vzh = 30,5 - 1/3 x 60 - 1,5 (64 - 60) = 30,5 - 20,0 - 1,5 x 4 = 4.5 cm

It is recommended [7] to carry the line polutanata only for those sizes of products, where the value Vzh turns out more than 1.5 cm

seam Allowance TT = 0,6 Eng lay of the vertical line IV - IV in continuation of the waist line.

When designing outerwear (jacket, coat) for men high, and very high completeness, in addition to the diversion line prosanos, it is necessary to form on the shelf of the bulge to hug sticking out belly. This question is all the methods [2, 7, 14] to solve fundamentally the same, this is designed to tuck the cut along the pocket, the center of which is located at the front end of the pocket (Fig. 111-10, e). The construction of tuck described in the methods [2, 7].

 

 

2. Kobylanski D. A. To create a typical technique of constructing men's suits mass production. Research works TSNIISHP, No. 6, 1957.

7. A common method of designing clothes. Men's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.

14. Garment industry. Experience of designing men's clothing. Information 4 (6), Cintalapa, 1963.