The middle line of the back

Form the middle line of the back depends on the type and cut of clothing, and the presence of a seam in the middle back.
If the back is intact, then the middle line of the back in the drawing should be direct, as when cutting must be the same shared thread. In the clothes these types of as men's shirts, and sometimes women's and children's light dress with no seam in the middle back the middle line of the back matches the original vertical.
In street clothes with a back of the middle line are also in a straight line, but with a deviation (a skew) from the vertical (Fig. 111-11). The construction of the midline with the bevel required for the elongation of the back and the best fit of the blades. Consider [7, 8] that the magnitude of the skew must not exceed the value of the measurements of the 1st notch waist (equal to an average of 4 cm in men and 5cm in women), but usually is equal to 1/4 - 1/2W, i.e., 1.0 to 2.5 cm.In the women's products with a back the size of the bevel take is always less than (1,0 - 1,5 cm) than in men (1.5 - 2.5 cm), partly due to the large protrusion of the buttocks in the female figures.
If the back middle seam, a line medium cut backless conducted, as a rule, with a bevel (bending) at the waist line. Middle seam allows to achieve the required fit of the product shapes in the blades, waist and hips. Construction of the line medium cut backless as follows. First of all define the beginning of the bevel of the middle slice, at the value of the distance from the cervical point to protruding points of shoulder-blades (equal to an average of 15 - 17 cm). For example, a jacket by the method of [2] the position of the start point of the bevel (Fig. 111-11, b) is determined by the formula RSH = RP/2 + 2,
according to the method of [3] (Fig. 111-11, in) according to the formula RZ = AR/3,
where RZ and AR is the depth of the armhole of the backrest in the drawing.
According to the method of [7] the position of the start point of the bevel (Fig. 111-11, g) is determined by the formula AU = 0,4 Dt.from where Dt.- measurement of length to the waist line.
The amount of deflection of the middle slice of the backrest depends on the structure shape and the desired degree of fit of the garment at the waist*. So, for jacket the amount of deflection taken as equal to 2.5 cm [2, 3, 14] to 4.5 cm or more [7].
When building a medium cut backless use different graphic techniques. In Fig. 111-11, g is an example of the construction of the middle cut of the back of the jacket using the same methodology TSNIISHP [7].
Sometimes the best fit of the blades when building the middle slice back and the top as well doing slant AA (top allotment of the middle slice) [18] (Fig. 111-11, d).
Construction of medium cut backless men's coat, semi-fitted at the waist, produce similar to the construction of the middle cut of the jacket. In a straight line coat a medium cut backless as well as the whole middle line of the back, runs along an inclined straight line (see Fig. 111-11 a),
In Additions to a single uniform method is suggested for men and women the way to build a medium cut backless. The amount of deflection (2.0 cm - for products direct, to 3.0 cm and with a 4.0 cm - skintight silhouette) we recommend that you wait not at the waist, and horizontally from the support point U lying on the vertical line I - I to male products at a distance of 17 cm, and for women-
cal - 20 cm below the point (Fig. III-11, W). Using the found point and the point carried down a straight line. If it was made abstraction of the middle line of the back at the top (cut AA), the discharge is at the bottom reduce. To do this, from the point of center, spend an arc with a radius of W and from the point of its intersection with the middle line of the back lay in an arc to the left segment, is equal to AA. The resulting point is connected to the point a straight line and continue the line down.
Detailed description of the various design options of the middle line (cut backs) depending on the silhouette, the availability of the middle seam and waist Darts of the back is given in the Addendum to the uniform methodology.
You should pay attention to the fact that an oblique arrangement of the middle line of the back, regardless of the silhouette of the clothes and the presence or absence of middle seam, hem and waist are always carried out at right angles to the middle line (or cut backs)** (see Fig. 111-11).
In the female the upper adjacent and poluprilegayuschy clothes build the middle line of the back is produced a little differently than men. In the presence of tuck on the back the size of the bevel waist take generally smaller than men's products: T is 1.0 - 1.5 cm (or by calculation T = 0,1 ΣВ), where ΣВ - the total solution tucks at the waist***. From the waist line to the bottom middle line of the back is carried out vertically IN or in the form of a convex curve TBN, passing from the hip line in a straight line (Fig. 111-11, e).

* TSNIISHP recommends that the amount of deflection to determine regardless of the size and completeness of the figure, changing it only in terms of growth and profile.
** The attached and poluprilegayuschy products waist line is a direct angle with the lower part of the middle line of the back, below the waist line.
*** On the calculation of the total solution tucks at the waist ΣВ see below.

2. Kobylanski, D. A. creating generic methods design of men's suits mass production. Research works TSNIISHP, No. 6, 1957.
3. Bychkov V. K. Czechoslovak system cut. Gostorgizdat, 1961.
7. A common method of designing clothes. Men's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.
8. A common method of designing clothes. Women's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.
14. Garment industry. Experience of designing men's clothing. Information 4 (6), Cintalapa, 1963.
18. Talpas, Gabor Matrai, Ferfiruha, Budapest, 1961.