The side sections of

 

the side seams in clothing is fickle and changes depending on the physique of the person, type of clothing, a silhouette, there are other seams, at the Darts, the model-fitting sleeves, and other factors.

The side seam is determined by the position of its vertex on the line of the openings, proceeding from the fact that in the finished product the side seam must always be vertically along the side of the torso.

Outerwear straight and loose silhouettes of the top of the side seam is closer to the middle of the armhole. In this case, the side seams are only constructive (with their help created the necessary the bulk form of the product) and they are almost invisible.

The attached and poluprilegayuschy products outerwear (coat, jacket, coat) the top of the side seam there is always a near vertical line that defines the width of the back of the jacket at a distance of 0.5-1.0 cm from this line, jacket - 1/8 ... 1/4 PDS (1.5 to 3.0 cm) men's coat - 1,0 ... 3.0 cm, women's coat (1/4 ... 1/3) PDS. In these pieces, the seam is visible from the back and has not only structural but also a decorative value. Offset side seam in the back side visually emphasizes the harmony of shapes.

When designing women's easy dresses regardless of the fit of the waist and the top of the side seam is of the vertical line that defines the width of the back, at a distance of (1/3 ... 1/2) PDS.

The shape of the side sections depends mainly on silhouette. Clothes live and free silhouette the side sections of the back and shelves are straight (Fig. 111-12), in poluprilegayuschy and adjacent - curved to a greater or lesser extent, follow the contour of the figure (Fig. 111-12, b, C).

The correct construction of the side sections is of great importance for a good planting articles in the figure. It is necessary that after grinding of the side sections of the main line of girths (chest, waist, hips) and the bottom line of the back and shelves match the side seams, and located in horizontal planes.

Long-term practice of design has developed certain rules, the most successful proportions and ratios of the widths of the parts used in constructing the side sections. Despite this, the construction of the side sections for clothes new silhouettes is not an easy task. The side sections on scans of the back and shelves are arranged differently than in the finished product or sketch models, so their final form and position are subject to mandatory verification and validation in the manufacture of primary sample models.

The construction of the side sections always start from the back, linking the size and shape of the side sections of the shelves with a back. Clothes live and free silhouettes for applying the lateral cut back enough to have a position only two points, one of them is the top of the side seam, the second point is set on the line of the bottom or thighs depending on the silhouette and model.

To create a straight silhouette side cut backless 1-2 (Fig. 111-12) a parallel to the middle line of the back or at the bottom compared to the width of the line of armhole depth 0.5 - 1.0 cm. With a sufficient allowance for the free fit for the chest in clothing, straight-leg silhouette for shapes small and medium body side cut shelves 1 - 3 can be placed with the same slope as the cut of the back, but only in the opposite direction, forming a sunset BB back into the shelf (see Fig. 111-12).For shapes of large and very large completeness the total width of the backrest and shelves at head level may not be sufficient. Therefore, to determine the setting of the shelves on the back can be used in checking calculation BB = (SB + PS.b) - (SG + PS.g) + BB where SB and SG measurements of poluobhvat thighs and Breasts; PS.b and PS.g - allowances for free customized fit to the corresponding poluobhvat; B - the value of the bevel of the middle line of the back at the hip line.

Clothing free silhouette (product extended downward) back width at the bottom is determined by the model. In this case, the decorative and constructive allowances at the hip line are usually quite sufficient to provide the desired width of the product.

The attached poluprilegayuschy clothes and the shape of the side sections is determined by finding the width of elements along the lines of the chest, waist, hips and bottom.

The difference in width of the product lines the bust and waist is called the total solution tucks at the waist and denote ΣВ.

For men's products ΣВ = (SG - PS.g) - (PT + PS.t).

For women's products ΣВ = (SG + PS.g) - (PT + PS.t).

The total value of the solution tucks, as seen from the formula, depends on the ratio of the size of poluobhvat breast (SG or SG) and waist St and allowances for free customized fit to poluobhvat breast PS.g PS and waist.t.

If the same allowances for free customized fit larger solution tucks the necessary clothing for shapes small fullness, less for shapes of large and very large fittings. For products, tight at the waist, Darts on the solution, of course, be more than poluprilegayuschy*.

The distribution of the total solution in seams and Darts differently depending on the clothing and models. Below are recommendations TSNIISHP [8] for the distribution of the total solution tucks when building the foundations of women's outerwear and effortless dresses in the presence of a side seam and three Darts: two at the front and one on the back. The solution in the side seam in the absence of a taper the middle line of the back TT equal to 2/5ΣВ. If the backrest has a chamfer DT, the solution in side seam TT equal to 2/5(ΣВ - TT).A solution of each of the three Darts is the same, equal to (ΣВ - TT)/5 - for products with a slant the middle line of the back and ΣВ/5 - for products without the bevel of the middle line of the back.

In the Addendum to the uniform methodology for tehzhe products offered other distribution ΣВ: side seam - (1/2ΣВ solution back tuck) the value of the solution back tuck is proposed to be equal to 0,8ТТ₁, and the solution front and side tuck - in (ΣВ - TT)/4. For products without a back tuck solution side seam is taken equal to 1/2(ΣВ - TT).

The construction of the side sections of the back in men's clothes is manufactured by using tested practice the ratio of the width of the back and shelves on the level of the main girths of the figure. For example, consider the construction of the side sections of the jacket. The top of the side seam of the jacket is spaced from the vertical II - II defining the width of the back, 0.5 - 1.5 cm back Width at the waist is taken to be typically 2.5 - 3.5 cm less than the width through the depth of the arm openings, and hem by 0.5 - 1.5 cm longer than its width at the waist line.

The side cut of the shelf is applied with the use of various graphic techniques [2, 7, 14, 18]. For example, in the method [7] used auxiliary vertical GT drawn through the top side of the slice G (Fig. III-12, b), relative to which symmetrically build the side sections of the backrest and shelves GTB GTN. According to the method of [2] (Fig. III-12) construction of a side-cut shelves are produced using two auxiliary inclined lines PA and TA, by setting the width of the shelf along the line of the buttocks AA. AA = (Xia + PN + PS.I) - AA, where PN is the seam allowance on the side seam;PS.I - allowance for free customized fit at the buttocks line; AA - back width at the level of the buttocks line.

The length of the side sections of the backrest and shelves necessarily equate. For products, free, and direct silhouette alignment of slices is produced from top side seam to bottom, poluprilegayuschy and adjacent from the waist to the hem.

 

Waist line and cuts the bottom of the

 

waist Line and bottom of the back, as mentioned above, is carried out in a straight line at an angle of 90' to the middle line of the back. Products in flared cut bottom of the back is a convex curve.

The position of the waist line of the shelf relative to the waist of the back depend on body shape (posture, degree of development of the chest muscles and glands, etc.) and is determined by the ratio of the dimensions of the figure from neck point to the waist line front -

Dt.p and rear - Dt.with **.

A single technique [7, 8] proposed to determine the position of the waist line in front from the top of the neck of shelves:

for men's products AGT = Dt.p - SSH/3 + PD.t.C + (0,3 ... 0,7);

for women's products AGT = Dt.p - SSH/3 + PD.t.s - (0,2 ... 1,0),

where Nl/3 - width of Rostock; PD.t.with the seam allowance to the length of the waist of the back.

In winter products to the value AGT add allowance for thickness of insulated strip, which increased "balance".

For typical figures taken in the design of clothing mass production, the waist line on the centerline of the shelves is usually lower than on the middle line of the back. The waist of the shelves is carried out in the form of an inclined straight line (Fig. 111-12) or broken lines (Fig. 111-12, b).

Form cut bottom shelves can be found only approximately. For its construction, except for the bottom point of the lateral cut will determine the length of the shelves under the line of prosanos. Cut the bottom shelf is 2 - 5 cm below the cut bottom of the back ***. The magnitude of the lengthening of the shelf depends on the completeness of the figures, the projected wet-heat processing on Board, as well as from fashion.

So, according to the standard technique [2] the length of the shelves from the horizontal line of the waist (Fig. 111-12,) to the bottom equal TN = TN + St/8 - (0,3 ... 1,0), where TN - back length from waist line to bottom.

Using the same methodology [7] the length of the shelves from the lowered waist line, depending on the length of the back and of the product is set equal TN = TN + (0,4 ... 1,0), where the value of 0.4 cm - take a coat or jacket; 1.0 cm - for coat.

The lower ends of the side cut lines polutanata connect the auxiliary straight line, and then draw up a slice of the bottom in the form of a smooth convex curve with a deflection in the middle at the value of 0,4 - 0,7 see

the Final form of the cut of the bottom shelves can be found by aligning the back, and a shelf at the bottom of the slices.

 

The line of the cut side pockets

 

The side pocket on the shelf determine, based on experience, position of the waist line and fashion. The line of the cut of the pocket can be directed horizontally (across the width of the shelves), vertically (along the length of the shelves) or inclined.

In all cases, the middle of the cut of the pocket (Fig. 111-12, g) is located below the waist line at a distance approximately equal to Dt.s/4

for coat women [8] TK = Dt.s/4;

for jacket, dresses and men's coats [7, 8] TC = Dt.s/4 - 10;

for a jacket [7] TC = Dt.s/4 - 20,

where Dt.- measure the length of the back to the waist line.

In clothing the pockets a little closer to the waist line, due to the relatively smaller length of the upper extremities in children [10]****:

for coat [10] TK = Dt.C/5;

for jacket, jacket, jacket, [10] TK = Dt.C/5 to 1.0.

Depending on the model distance from the waist line to the grub pocket can change to 1 - 2 cm.

When finding the location of the pocket across the width of the shelves are oriented generally on a vertical line III - III that is tangent to the armhole. In the pocket, perpendicular, line of the cut most often performed by taking this vertical line over the line of symmetry. Depending on the model line of the cut of the pocket may be offset by 1.0 - 1.5 cm in the direction of polutanata or side of the slice.

When building the foundations of women's clothing line of the cut of the pocket should be placed closer to the line of prosanos, delaying point-To 1/4 the length of the slits in the side seam and 3/4 in the direction of line of prosanos [8].

The line of the cut of the pocket is carried out parallel to the bottom shelves.

Length of the cut of the pocket is determined by the size of the brush, and the appearance of the product: to coat the length of the grub install more pocket than jacket or coat.

TSNIISHP recommends to determine the length of the cut pocket KK depending on poluobhvat chest SG (women and girls SG):

in men's clothes KC = 0,15 SG + (8,0 ... 9,0) where 8.0 cm is a constant for jacket; 9.0 cm - for coats;

women's clothing KC = 0,15 SG + (7,0 ... 8,0), where 7.0 cm is a constant for jacket; 8.0 cm for a coat.

 

 

Tuck on a shelf for waist line

 

 

In clothing fitting and semi-fitted silhouettes at the waist on the shelf, make one or two Darts: the front and side. In the men's jackets on the figure high, and very high completeness, but also in a man's coat front tucks, optional*****. The solution of each of the recesses in the men's products does not exceed 1 - 1.5 cm, in the female it may reach, depending on completeness of shape, and allowance for free customized fit at the waist line of 2.5 - 3.0 cm and more******. TSNIISHP recommends in men's clothes to take the solution side tuck is 0.3 ΣВ, front - 0,2 ΣВ.In the case when the solution side tuck is less than 1.5 cm, the front tuck are doing, and its solution summarize with side. In search of the solution of each tuck is defined as (ΣВ - T)/4, where T - slant the middle line of the back.

The location of the Darts on the shelves outerwear is usually linked to the position of the line of the cut side pockets. When the transverse location of the pocket bottom ends of the two recesses lie on the line of the cut of the pocket: the front - at a distance of 0.5 - 1.5 cm from the front end of the pocket, side - depending on the type of clothing away from 0 (the dress) up to 2.5 - 4.0 cm (blazer, jacket, coat) from the vertical line III - III (Fig. 111-12, b, C, d).Front tuck direct products of smooth fabrics to the centre of convexity of the breast, from fabrics with stripes or a cage - vertically, having its upper end in depending fashion at a distance of 4 - 10 cm from the line of armhole depth. The beginning of the solution of the two recesses is spaced from the line of the cut of the pocket at a distance of 1 - 2 cm, solution side tuck at a distance of 4 - 6 cm (Fig. 111-12, g) from the line of armhole depth.

Hand tucks is carried out in straight lines, with a strong solution of the Darts and the desire to emphasize the fit waist - concave curves, with small Darts on the solution and less pronounced fit at the waist, the contours of the recesses is applied to smooth convex curves (Fig. 111-12, e).

In Fig. 111-13 sample a few drawing fundamentals backrest and shelves of the top men's and women's clothing made on different methods of construction [7, 8, 14].

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* At the same density fit ΣВ in women's clothing turns more than men. This can be explained by a greater difference between poluobhvat the bust and waist in women's shapes than men's. The average completeness for this difference are, respectively, 10.0 and 6.5 cm.

** The Magnitude Of Dt.p it is necessary to take minus the length of the germ.

*** The exception is clothing made of fabrics with a pattern of distinct large cells, where lower line of the shelves can be directed in the same way as on the back, ie the weft thread.

**** Arm length until the end of the 3rd finger in men is 45-46% of the growth of boys from 42% (24-m) to 44% (46th in size); women, respectively 43 and 44%, girls - 41% (24-m) to 43% (46th in size).

***** If the presence of the front tuck is not determined by the design of the shelves, for example, the transfer angle stivania in the front tuck.

****** Due to the greater magnitude of the total solution tucks ΣВ in women's clothing than in men's.

 

2. Kobylanski, D. A. creating generic methods design of men's suits mass production. Research works TSNIISHP, No. 6, 1957.

3. Bychkov V. K. Czechoslovak system cut. Gostorgizdat, 1961.

7. A common method of designing clothes. Men's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.

8. A common method of designing clothes. Women's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.

10. A common method of designing clothes. Children's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1963.

14. Garment industry. Experience of designing men's clothing. Information 4 (6), Cintalapa, 1963.

18. Talpas, Gabor Matrai, Ferfiruha, Budapest, 1961.