Features of construction of the foundations bodice with cap sleeves

 

, the Basis of bodice with cap sleeves build on the drawing fundamentals backrest and shelves products with vtachnoy sleeve of the appropriate type and silhouette (Fig. 111-14)*.

Cap sleeve can be long or short with gusset** with and without gusset.

We will look at creating the basics of bodice dresses with cap short sleeves without gussets [15].

For this design (Fig. 111-14, a) is characterized by the location of the top of the side seam in the middle of the openings, and further deepening the armhole by 1 - 2 cm.

To build cap sleeves continue the line of the shoulder sections of the back and shelves and on the continuation of their lay length sleeves PP' = PP' is 3 - 7 cm the sleeve Length on the level of the depth of the openings GG' = GG" - take equal to 0.5 - 1.0 cm and lay from the top side of slices to the left - front and right - back. The contour of the bottom of the sleeves is carried out a smooth concave curve on the back using the point P' and G', on the shelf - through P' and P".

For the best fit sleeve arm shoulder produce the bevel of the shoulder cuts: back - on 1.0 cm, shelves - 0.5 cm Point of the bottom of the sleeves G' and G" connect smooth curved side sections of the backrest and shelves.

When extending the sleeves over 7 - 10 cm, so as not to embarrass movements of the hands, you need to produce a greater deepening the armholes (cut the "kimono") or extend the armhole by connecting with gusset.

Features of construction of the bodice of the dress, coat or long jacket with cap sleeves with gusset (Fig. 111-14, b) are as follows [19, 24, 26]:

a) for better structural design of the bodice is further deepening the openings to 4 to 8 cm;

b) to maintain the balance of the product on the figure move the top of the sprout and of the neck and shoulder sections of the back and shelves to the side of the shelves.

Sprout A' and shoulder cut A P' on the back move up. The magnitude of the displacement of the germ of 0.5 - 1.0 cm, the outer end of the shoulder cut PP'= 0,5 - 2,0 cm, Respectively, on the shelf the top of the neck A' and shoulder cut P' move down by the same amount. Top the slices cap sleeves are a continuation of the shoulder sections. To create the appropriate appearance of their building with a large slope (slant) relative to the horizontal than the shoulder cuts.

The magnitude of the skew is determined on the basis of practical data, for example, relative to the line of the breast [19, 26]. Bevel the upper edge of the sleeve backless GO (mid front) is taken equal to 10 - 18 cm Bevel the upper edge of the sleeve shelves GS (mid-back) is equal to the bevel of the back GO plus solution top tuck A P'.

Point O and connect with the outer ends of the shoulder sections of the back B' and shelves P' direct and on them lay the sleeve length. Line the bottom of the sleeves is carried out perpendicularly to the upper sections. On these lines lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model. Line the bottom of the sleeve backless finally draw to a convex curve, shelves - concave. The value of convexity (concavity) is accepted equal 0,5 - 0,7 see

To build the lower (inner) sections of the sleeves define a new position of the line of openings. The top of the side seam for the bodice of this cut feature in the middle of the armhole. Across the top of the side seam is carried out vertical and on it lay the stock on deepening the armhole GO equal to 4,0 - 8,0 see Through the point O hold the horizontal and at the intersection of it with the side sections of dots A and O.

To connect with gusset on the front and the back make undercuts. The length of undercut form such that the gusset was not visible from the outside. For this purpose the upper ends of undercuts the point A and A slip inside the openings to a distance HO = GO = 2.0 - 3.0 cm from the verticals that define the width of the back and shelves. These points should be placed above the depth of the openings of the base with vtachnoy sleeve.

Point O and O connect with points A and A direct OO and OO, which will be the lines of undercuts at the back and the shelf.

The lower sections of the sleeves of the backrest and shelves is carried out by connecting the start point and undercuts A O with the lines of the bottom of the sleeves.

To create a sufficient fit to the elbow on the lower cut sleeve backless built tuck with the value of the solution is 1.5 - 2.5 cm and a length of 6 - 7 cm.

Gusset is constructed in the form of a quadrangle, consisting of two equilateral triangles. One pair of gusset sections connected to the backrest and shelf, so they must be equal to the length of the undercut of the back and shelves OO and OO. A second pair of gussets primatives sections to the lower sections of the sleeves of the backrest and shelves, their length equal to the length of OA and OA, but may be more depending on the model (yet-

shown in Fig. 111-14 b touches).

 

Features of construction of the foundations of the bodice with the sleeve Raglan

 

The structure of the back and shelves of bodice-fitting Raglan develop the drawing basics backrest and shelves casting sleeve of the corresponding silhouette (figure. 111-15) [6, 22, 25, 26].

Changes in the construction drawings backrest and shelves of the bodice with a Raglan sleeve are additional 1.0 - 1.5 cm and extending to 1 - 4 cm openings, and the connecting line of openings, with the lines of the sprout on the back and neck on the shelf. The top of the armhole on the back get, aside from the vertex point of Rostock A for slice of Rostock А₂А1₂ = 1.5 - 2.5 cm, on the shelf - from the top of the neck A the cut of the neck also AA' = 1.5 - 2.5 cmThe resulting points A' and A' auxiliary direct connect respectively with the front nadrezkoj shelves (P) and nadrezkoj of the backrest (P), which is located 1 cm above the anterior notch.

Sometimes the best design cutoff armholes Raglan auxiliary direct conduct through the notch P and P, and through the points located slightly below them. So, when building the armhole men's Raglan [25] was taken segments PP' = 0.7 cm, PP' = 1.5 cm (Fig. 111-15, b).

The seam of the armhole backrest and shelves draw on the pattern with a bulge in the middle of direct A P' and A P equal to 1.0 - 1.5 cm

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* Outlines the basics backrest and shelves set-in sleeve shown in Fig. III-14 thin lines. For ease of explanation, the drawing contains only the necessary symbols.

** Gusset - detail quadrangular or other shapes that extend the armhole of the bodice pieces with cap sleeves.

 

6. Vinogradov S. K., Ribakov V. N., Lebedev, A. M. Designing men's clothes. Wasteheat, 1961.

15. Evtushenko, M. A., and Smirnova, R. S. the Construction of light female dresses. Lenizdat publishing house, 1960.

19. The engineering Handbook of women's easy dress with cap sleeves and Raglan cut sleeves. COIS, 1958.

22. Skowronski A. J. Designing men's clothes. Publishing house "Light industry", 1964.

24. Cheremnykh A. I., Samar, A., Rasbash, I. Y. Design top women's clothing. Gisleham, 1959. (The Hungarian method).

25. A collection of teaching materials for designing clothes. ODMO, 1965.

26. The design of the products (women's outerwear). Publishing house "Light industry", 1965.