Skirts as well as trousers, are the waist products. Depending on the shape (silhouette) skirt can be divided into two kinds: straight and conical.

Straight skirts can be narrow, without folds, with a split hem, with single or multiple press pleats and wide: ruched waist, with a small press or soft pseudogene folds.

Design of straight skirts can be developed on the same basis duhovnoi narrow skirt.

Flared skirts are of many varieties: "flared", "bell", "bell", "sun", etc.

The initial data for drawing skirts are measure figures that determine the width of the skirt at the top (St and SB) and the length Dt.to and the allowances for free customized fit [8, 15, 17, 24].

Allowance for the free fit gives the width of the skirt at poluobhvat waist and hips.

The width of the skirt at the bottom depends on the shape. For straight skirts it is equal to the width at the hip line or a little (2 - 5 cm) more or less*: TN = Dt.K + PD.and.

In flared skirts width at the bottom depends on the model and may exceed the width at the hip line several times.

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* According to the method of CNIISHP [8] it is proposed to include straight skirts, the width of which is SN below does not exceed the poluobhvat waist St more than 2/3 of its length Di, i.e. SN - St ≤ 2/3Ди.

 

The construction of a primary drawing basics straight skirt

 

In the drawing basics straight skirt can highlight the construction of the grids, the upper and lower contour lines, the side contour lines and Darts (Fig. 111-22).

The grid consists of three vertical lines: the middle of the back of the I - I line defining the width of the rear cloth

II - II, and mid-front III - III and three horizontal lines: 1 - 1 - waist, 2 - 2 - hips, 3 - 3 - bottom.

The grid construction usually starts with a vertical line in the middle of the back of the I - I and a horizontal waist line 1 - 1, intersecting at point T.

Further drawing is applied to the horizontal lines of the hips and bottom.

The position of the hip line 2 - 2 is determined based on measurements of Dt.with the same as when you build a Foundation of shoulder products. TB = 0,4 Dt.with.

Line bottom of 3 - 3 determined on the basis of length measurements of product: TN = Di, where Di is the length of the skirt from waist to hem in the back.

Length of the product can be taken in accordance with the approved scale lengths or by calculation based on the measurement of Dt.to and PD allowance.and that determines the level of the bottom of the product relative to the center of the knee cups: TN = Dt.K + PD.and.

Through the points B and N carry out the horizontal lines of the thighs 2 - 2 and bottom 3 - 3.

The distance between the vertical grid lines I - I and III - III. is determined by the width of the skirt at the hip line: B = SB + Pb, where SB is the measure of poluobhvat hips; Pb - allowance for loose fit at the hip line.

Through the point B hold the vertical III - III and the point of its intersection with the horizontal lines of the waist and bottom respectively designate points T and N.

The position of the third vertical II - II determined by the adopted ratio between the width of the rear and front panels of the skirt, i.e. by the position of the side seam.

The side seam on the skirt feature in the middle of the distance between the verticals II and III - III [24] or for the best fit skirts modestly shift the back seam.**

Different methods are recommended seam slippage of 1 to 3 cm [8, 24]. In line with this, the width of the rear cloth is proposed to be determined by the formula B = B/2 - (1 - 3).

The point of intersection of the vertical III - III with the horizontal lines of the waist, hips and bottom respectively designate T, B and N.

The construction of tucks, side and top sections

The total solution tucks at the waist is determined by the formula ΣВ = (SB + SP) - (St + PT), where SB and CT - measurements of poluobhvat the hips and waist; Pb and PT are the allowances for free customized fit to poluobhvat the hips and waist.

Typical distribution of the total solution tucks for shapes small and medium body adopted the following: the solution of the Darts into the side seam is 1/2ΣВ, back tuck - 1/3ΣВ, front - 1/6ΣВ.

Depending on the physique of the figure the distribution of the total solution tucks may change.

Solution tuck into the side seam is normally distributed evenly towards the rear and the front cloth skirts. The position of the rear and front vigatec depends on the model. When building drawing foundations, it can be defined as follows [8].

The position of the rear tuck is determined by the formula B = 0,4ББ₂.

The position of front Darts is determined by the formula BB = 0,4Б₁Б₂ or BB = 0,2 SB, where B and BB - respectively, the width of the front and rear panels of the skirt; SB - bushel of poluobhvat hips.

Through B and B is carried out vertical to the horizontal waist line is 1 - 1. From the intersection points in both sides lay half of the solution corresponding to the tuck.

The lower ends of the Darts are fitted at a certain distance from the hip line: rear - 2 - 3 cm, front 3 - 6cm, tuck in the side seam 1 cm Length of the sides of each tuck call: back and side - for the most party, the front - less [8, 25]. Side Darts at the side seam make convex curves, the front and rear are straight or smooth curves. To hug the hips the upper ends of the side cuts raise 1.0 - 1.5 cm in the middle of the solution of the continuous rear and front tucks raise 1/8 - 1/6 solution tuck.The upper section of the skirt between the ends of the Darts carried the smooth concave lines.

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** When creating drawings suiting skirt the position of the seam on the skirt should match the position of the side seam of the jacket.

 

Features drawing of conical skirts

 

Drawings conical skirts (Fig. 111-23) can be regarded as a scan-side surface of a truncated cone, generatrix of which is equal to the length of the skirt, and the length of the arc of the upper base is made of poluobhvat waist. The length of the arc bottom base depends on the degree of recklessne skirt.

TSNIISHP [8] provides drawings of all tapered skirts to build one design scheme. The upper arc (waist line) and lower arch (bottom line) of the sweep of the skirt is carried out from one center point O.

the radius of the top arc can be found by the formula FROM = x TO St, where St is the measure of poluobhvat waist: K is a coefficient the value of which varies depending on the degree of recklessne skirts: "flared" - 1,4; "big bell" and 1.2, "small bell" - 1,0; "the middle bell" - 0,9; "the big bell" - 0,8; "the bell" - 0,64; "sun" - 0,32.

Distance FROM lay on the vertical.

The radius of the bottom arc increase the length of the skirt TN. = HE + TN.

Distance HE also lay vertically.

The length of the upper arc in all cases equal measure St: T = St.

Through the points O and T draw to the intersection with the arc of the hem (t N).

The angle at the point O changes depending on the degree of recklessne skirt: for the skirt "the sun" it is equal to 180', "the bell" - 90' for the rest - less than 90'.

Drawings are given for half the width of the skirt. Depending on the cut of the conical skirt may be two-, four - and seticonname. Skirt "the bell" can be one-piece or duhovnoi. Skirt - duhovnoj, mnogozonnoy or the whole (of the wide of the fabric or with extensions, is shown in Fig. 111-23,dashed lines).

 

8. A common method of designing clothes. Women's clothing. Gomelpromstroi, 1962.

15. Evtushenko, M. A., and Smirnova, R. S. the Construction of light female dresses. Lenizdat publishing house, 1960.

17. Tsarev N. And. Designing of women's outerwear. Wasteheat, 1963.

24. Cheremnykh A. I., Samar, A., Rasbash, I. Y. Design top women's clothing. Gisleham, 1959. (The Hungarian method).

25. A collection of teaching materials for designing clothes. ODMO, 1965.