Fig. 44. Drawing shelves winter coat with side tuck in the side pocket with leaves
All calculations build a winter coat with side tuck and tuck in the side pocket (Fig. 44) is similar to building a winter coat without undercut (except for the calculation of the width of the openings in the drawing). The width of the openings is to be paid the allowance at the solution side tuck and seam allowance to the retraction barrel.
Side tuck and tuck in the side pocket provide a bulge in the chest area and make it easier to wet-heat treatment.
Т1Т2 = Г10Г5 - 1 cm; Н1Н2 = Т1Т2; Т8Т31 = Г3Г5 - 1 cm; Н4Н3 = Т8Т31.
In the presence of side tucks and tuck in the side pocket corner suteki reduced to 0.5 cm, in this case Г8Г81 = 0,05ГЗГ4 (see Fig. 40).
To build the side tucks along the chest line from point G4 (see Fig. 44) to the left lay a quarter of the width of the armhole (point Г41). From the point Г41 performed vertical down, and from point T5 (the intersection with the waistline) lay down 9.5 cm and put a point K5. Up from point lay K5 1.5 cm (point CB). Through the point K5 is carried out horizontal to the right, in the direction of prosanos, to the intersection with the line А41Т4, continue down (point K13). From the point of K13 to the left of the line К13К5 lay 4 cm and put the point K'1. Points K'1 and K6 direct connect. Angle К5К'1К6 determines the position of the tuck in the side pocket.
At the chest line from point Г41 left lay 2 cm, determine the retraction barrel (point Г42). Point Г42 K5 and connect with a straight line and its intersection with the waist line put a point Kzt51.. From the point Г42 down the line Г42К5 lay 1.5 cm and put a point Г43, through which carry out horizontal to the left and build armhole barrel Г43Г5.
From point T5 to the right lay 1.5 cm (point T6). The side tucks hold a smooth line through the points Г41, TB and KB.
Down from the point of Kzt51. lay 1.5 cm (point Т52), through the obtained point spend a horizontal left to side cut at their intersection put a point T32.
The side sections of the shelves and backless from the waist line to the bottom of the call. To do this, from the point T32 line Т32Н3 continued down, lay cut Т2Н2 and put a point Н31, i.e. ТЗ2НЗ1 = Т2Н2.
After building a tuck in the side pocket to build the leaf. Cut Т4Т7 divided in half (point K71). From this point down vertically lay the cut К71К1 = 3 cm From point K1, make a notch in the vertical from point A2, continued downward with a radius equal to the length of the leaves, and put on the intersection point of K2. The length of leaves equal to 0.2 SG + 7 see Line К1К2 is the entrance to the pocket. The width of leaves building from points K1 and K2 to the right in the direction of prosanos. It depends on the style (usually the width of the leaves are 3 - 3.5 cm).
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