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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§12. Features of construction of the sides and collar of the winter at the mouth of the shelves

Neck coat (Fig. 45) is constructed in the usual way, only the point of the ledge A61 moves to the left by half the width of the hidden fasteners (the distance from the edge of the Board to the finishing stitches of the chain).

The depth of the neck А41А5 = 0,4 SSH + 1 + 6 (the thickness of an insulation strip). In our example А41А5 = 10,2 cm Deepening of the neck АЗА6 = А4А5 + 1.5 cm.

Auxiliary point A60 is measured by the length А5Аб0 = 0,25А41А5 = 0,25 x 10.2 = 2.5 cm.

At right angles to the line АЗГ81 point of AB and draw from a point of AB to the left lay the cut А6А61 = 0.5 Spastici = 0.5 x 4 = 2 see Point A60 and A61 motorways connect direct, in relation to where you draw the neckline. From the point of the A61 to the right lay the wide snap А61Л2 = 4 cm.

Buckle length ends at the hip line. Board edge draw parallel line polutanata.
 
The upper hinge includes a eye in the line of prosanos from the line А61Л2 at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm.
 
To build winter collar in the neck of the shelves from the point A41 on the left shoulder line А41П50 lay 2 cm (point S0). Through the obtained point is carried tangent to the neck (the point F0). From the point S0 on the continuation of the line Ф0з0 lay up the length of the neck backless, subtracting 0.7 cm on quickdraw (point Z1). From the point F0 with a radius of Ф0з1 conduct an arc to the left and lay cut з1з2 equal to the height of the rack at the rear plus 2 cm (з1з2 = 3,5 + 2 = 5.5 cm). The points Z2 and S0 connect auxiliary line. From the point Z2 at a right angle to the line з2з0 draw where you lay: stand з2з3 = 3.5 cm; departure з3з4 = 8 see Point з3 and A61 motorways connect a smooth line.
 
To build a front cut of a collar determine the angle from the point of the ledge to the A61. To do this, from the point L2 on the continuation of the edge of the Board lay up 2 cm (point з7). Through the A61 and з7 draw where you lay the length of the front cut of a collar А61з6. In our example А61з6 = 10.5 cm.

From the point з4 at a right angle to the line з4з2 draw down and lay cut з4з5 = 8 see Point H5 and P6 connect smooth convex line. In the proposed style collar front has neotissue rack. To build from a ledge hold down the A61 a direct parallel to the mid-collar з2з4 and lay stand height А61А62 = 4 cm.

To construct a line of vrachevanie of collar from point S0 to the left on the shoulder line lay 2 cm (point з21). Line vrachevanie collar hold a smooth line through the points Z2, з21, F0, A62.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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