Construction drawing basics jacket. Drawing basics jacket is built on a model figure. Allowances for free customized fit, see:

PG = 10 PS.PR = 3...4 PH.throats.C = 1,5
PT = PD 13.t.s = 1.p = 10...11
Pb = 5 PD.t.n = 1,4

The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the back - 20,4; to the shelf - 19,2; to the area of the openings - 50 - (20,4 + 19,2) = 10,4.

If the allowance on the chest PG<9 cm, it is defined by the sections in the jacket, i.e. the seam allowance to the armhole needs to be such that its width was not less than 14.5 - 15 cm for the size 50. If the stock PG=10...11 cm, the width of the openings should be not less than 16 cm for size 50. If the stock PG>11 cm, then PG distributed across the plots to the width of the backrest 25 - 30 %, of the width of the openings 45 and 55 %, of the width of the shelves 20 - 25 %.
As in our example, PG = 10 cm, the width of the openings should be 16 see the section of the openings UPR = 10.4 cm, then the seam allowance to the armhole, is 16 - 10,4 = 5.6 cm., the Balance of allowance 10 - 5,6 = 4.4 cm is distributed to the back 0.55 balance (or 4.4 x 0.55 = 2.4 cm), to the shelf 0.45 residue (4.4 x 0,45 = 2 cm).
 

Width plots with the total surplus in the drawing (Fig. 48):
back - Г10Г11 = RC + PN.with + Pshow = 20,4 + 2,4 + 1 = 23,8 cm;
armhole - Г11Г4 = UPR + PU.PR = 10,4 + 5,6 = 16 cm;
shelf - SHG = SHG + PN.g + Pshow = 19,2 + 2 + 1 = 22,2, see

  the creating drawings of the back. The level of the waist line
At = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,4 + 1 = 46,5 cm
The level of the chest
AG = the CDF.z + PSPR = 21,5 + 4 = 25.5 cm
The level of convexity of the blades
AU = 0,HWP.with + 0.3 x 45,5 = 13,6 cm
The greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles
TB = 0,5 Dt.C - 3,5 = 0,5 x 45.5 - 3,5 = 19,3 cm
The length of the jacket
An = Di + DD.t.C = 76,5 + 1 = 77,5 cm
Raising and moving the base of the sprout АА0 = 0,5...0,7 cm; А0А01 = 0.5 cm.
The determination of the median line of the back ТТ1 = 0,7 - 1 cm.
Width of the neck backless
А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.throats.C = 20,5/3 + 1,5 = 8,2 cm
The height of the neck backless
A1A2 = А01А1/3 + Pshow = 8,2/3 + 1 = 3.7 cm.
The side cut on the chest Г11Г2 = 0,5 PDS = 0.5 x 16 = 8 cm.
The removal of the side cut in the middle of the openings simplifies the manufacturing technology of the jacket.
From the point G2 is carried out vertical down to the intersection with the waist line (point T3). From the point T3 to the left horizontally lay the cut Т3Т2 = 1 see Points T2 and G2 connect with a straight line. From point T2 is carried out vertical to the line of bottom and the intersection of dot D2.
The height of the armhole of the backrest
Г11Г2 = DP 0,5 + 5,2 + 1 = 0.5 x 36 + 6,2 = 24,2 cm
Increase the height of the armhole by 1 cm compared to the height of the armhole in a jacket associated with an increase of PS.PR 1 cm In our example, PS.PR = 4 cm.
The length of the line of the shoulder cut А20П1 = SHP + 2 = 15,5 + 2 = 17.5 cm
The reference point of the openings A3, located at the intersection of the level line of the blades and direct аГ11. The position of the reference point 1 is defined by the segment G111 = PDS 0,25 = 0,25 x 16 = 4 see

  Construction drawing shelves. The width of the shelves on the chest Г3Г4 = A1A2 = 22,2 cm (from prior calculation).
The side cut on the chest Г4Г2 = 0,5 PDS =0.5 x 16 = 8 cm.
Lowering the line polutanata from the point N4 is determined by the cut Н4Н5 = 1 cm.
The deflection of the side cut on the waist line Т3Т31 = 1 cm.
From the point T31 performed vertical down, where you lay the cut Т31Н3 = Т2Н2. To build the bottom line of the point N3 and N5 connect a smooth line.
The position of the point G6 is determined by the cut ГЗГ6 = 0,5Г3Г4 + 1 see the position of the point of G7 is defined by the cut Г6Г7 = PS.PR = 4 cm Segment that defines the angle sutysky, Г8Г81 = 1.1 cm
Mouth width: the width of Rostock + 1 = 8,2 + 1 = 9,2 cm
The position of the highest point of cap A41 is determined by the cut Т4А41 = Dt.p + 3 = 45 + 3 = 48 cm
The depth of the neck А41А5 = SSH 0,4 + 0,5 = 0,4 x 20,5 + 0,5 = 87 cm.
The position of the auxiliary point is defined A60 cut А5А60 = Z, see To build a neck angle point A60 right lay 2 cm (point F0).
The neck angle draw through the points A41, F0 and AB.
The height of the armhole shelves Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 4,2 + 1 = 0.5 x 36 + 4,2 + 1 = 23,2 cm
Increase the height of the armhole by 1 cm compared to the height of the armhole in a jacket associated with an increase of PS.PR by 1 cm
The length of the shoulder cut is determined by the cut А41П50 = SHP + PN = 15,5 + 1 = 16,5 cm Bevel shoulder cut П50П5 = 0.5 cm.
The control points of the openings G4, G2 and 2 segments defined:
Г4П6 = 0,25Г4П4 + 0,5 = 0,25 x 23,2 + 0,5 = 6.3 cm;
    G42 = PDS 0,25 - 1,5 = 0,25 x 16 - 1,5 = 2,5 cm;
Г4Г2= 0,5 PDS = 0.5 x 16 = 8 cm.
The control point P7 is determined by the cut П6П7 = 2 cm.
Mid-cut openings П5П6 is denoted by point 3. The deflection of the openings on the site П5П6 is determined by the segment 3 - 4 = 1 see