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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§15. Construction features single-breasted jacket with patch pockets


The position of the surface of the pocket is determined by the cut Т7К (Fig. 49, a): 
Т7К = 0,25 Dt.p - 5, 5 = 0,25 x 45.5 - 5,5 = 6 cm. 
Line the entrance to a patch pocket above the sign-in Welt pocket on 1 - 2 see Conditional width surface of the pocket is determined by the length of the side pocket plus 2 - 3 cm 50 width dimension SMD pocket К1К2 = 16 + 3 = 19 see If the side seams are built from the middle of the armhole, slip the pocket is shifted to the line of prosanos.
To determine the position point K1 from the point T4 down the line А41Т4 lay cut Т4К0 = Т7К + 0.5 cm Through the points K0 and To perform live, and from point K0 to the right lay 2.5 cm (point K1). Length SMD pocket more of it width 1 - 3 cm, i.e. К1К2 = 19 see Line К1К'1 build in parallel line polutanata К1К'1 = К1К2 + 2 see Cut K 1K'2 = К1К2 built parallel to the bottom line.
The width of the top surface of the pocket of a jacket determine the length of the leaves jacket plus 1.5 - 2 cm From the point G4 to the right lay cut Г4КЗ = 0,25Г3Г4 - 1 cm; from the point K3 to the right of the line chest width lay overlay pocket at the top К3К4 = 0,2 SG + 1 + 2 = 0.2 x 50 + 3 = 13 cm 
From point lay up K3 2.5 - 3 cm (point KZ1); from the point K4 up lay 1.5 - 2 cm (point K41). Point K31 and K41 connect with a straight line. 
The length of the upper surface of the pocket is determined by the cut К41К'4 = К31К'3.
Width of the upper surface of the pocket at the bottom K 3K'4 = К31К41 + 0.5 cm. The front section pocket К41К'4 is constructed parallel to the line of prosanos. The upper and lower side surface of the pocket are constructed in parallel. 

  The construction side. The single-breasted jacket polutanata width,i.e. the distance from the linepolutanata to the edge of the Board is 3.5 - 5 cm (seam allowance). 
The edge of a Board jacket with zipper top build parallel to the line of prosanos. 
Line the upper edge of the side is built from the point A6 at right angles to line А3Г81. The lower section of the side is built from the point H5 to the right horizontal Н5Н52 = А6Л2.
All the vertical loops located on the line polutanata. The upper end of the loop is located at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the point A6. The distance between the lower end of the upper loop and the upper by the end of the next loop 13 see, depending on the style of the distance between loops changes.

§ 16. FEATURES OF CONSTRUCTION DRAWING DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET WITH DROPPED ARMHOLE AND YOKE

On the back (Fig. 49, b) a yoke built for the line U 1П3 determining the level the convexity of the blades. From point P3 down the line of the armhole aside cut ПЗПЗ1 = 1...1.5 cm ПЗПЗ1 determines the solution tuck in the yoke. The length of the tuck 9 see 
lines primaqiune yoke to the back 1П3 U'i and U'i 1П31 give the seam. 
For lengthening and lowering of the shoulder cut on the back from the point T1 by a radius Т1П2 hold the arc to the right and down from point P11 (the intersection of the arc with the line armhole) lay the necessary elongation. In our example П11П12 = 5 see
The construction of the yoke of movement of the blades allows to exclude the wet-heat treatment of the back. 
On the shelf yoke is based on the horizontal from point Pb. Angle suteki transferred to tuck yoke. For this line Г6Г7 continue up to the intersection with the line of the yoke (the point Г71). From the point Г71 downperpendicular to the line А3Г81. 
Lines primaqiune coquettes are given to the shelf seam. 
For lengthening and lowering of the shoulder cut shelves from point T8 radius Т8П5 hold the arc down and to the left lay the cut П5П51= П11П12 ( the back).
To construct a line slit pocket determine the position of the point K on the line Т7Т8. Т7К = Т7Т4/2. 
A point and a radius length of the slot pocket (0,2 SG + 7) make a notch on vertical dropped from the point A2 (point K1). Depending on the style products slant pocket can change. 
The distance between the line polutanata and the edge bead from the top loop to the bottom in a double-breasted jacket 7 - 9 see the Position of the hinges depends on style. The distance between loops decreases with the lengthening of the lapel.
To build the lapel determine the line of its fold: on the edge of a Board at the top of the loop put point L. From point A41 (top of the neck shelves) right on the continuation line А41П50 lay cut А41з = Stoiki - 0.5 cm Through the points L and s draw a line that intersects with the line of the neck in point F. the LF Line defines the fold of the lapel. The width of the lapel lay on straight, perpendicular to the fold line of the lapel. At the intersection a straight line ФА6, continue to the right, put a point L2. The points L and L2connect direct. Line the outer edge of the lapel of the jacket is carried out a deflection from the mid-line ЛЛ2. Up from point L2 on the continuation curved line ЛЛ2 lay cut Л2Л3. In our example, the cut Л2ЛЗ = 3.7 cm.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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